Burleyboy
When they cast and recast linotype in print shops, after a while they burn most of the tin out of the metal. Most old type setters knew that and they frequently "recharged" their linotype with tin to keep it in balance so the antimony would stay in the lead and maintain a uniform hardness. The antimony is what makes linotype hard and it will not stay uniformly suspended in lead, but it will in tin. I'm sure your old typesetter knows all about all of that, but you need to ask him if he has kept the tin in his linotype metal.
I bought all the linotype metal of the Laurel Leader Call newspaper when they switched from physical type setting to digital production, but I didn't know about the issue of low tin content and "recharging" the linotype. Dumb ass me, I thought linotype was linotype because they said it was linotype. But the paper knew they were not going to be using linotype any more, so they quit recharging it with tin. The result was when I got it and started casting it, I had to add the tin and that increased the per pound cost up to about what I could have bought new linotype for in the first place.
So before you buy what they are calling linotype, make sure that it is actually linotype and not a bunch of burned out lead and antimony. Good linotype should be 84% lead, 12% antimony, and 4% tin. You shouldn't be able to scratch it with your finger nail and it should be bright and not dull like pure lead.
If you can get 1300 pounds of good linotype for what Craigster has suggested, jump on it quick. But if it is over used and burned out, you might want to offer less or pass on the deal. Best of luck and let's hope the metal has been kept in the proper composition and you are getting a good deal.
Last edited by BobWills; 06/01/16.
