The only time I mixed it was to work on the checkering, using a tooth brush.
I soak Pro Oil into the raw, perfectly prepped wood, 400 grit wet sanding until forming a slurry. As it gets thick, I wipe cross grain and allow it to dry 24 hrs. Did that twice.
I then applied around 8-10 Tru Oil coats, 4-0 steel wool between coats to fully fill the pores. Tru Oil dries faster, speeds up the process.
Then I lightly coated the dry finish with alcohol based Fiebings, allowing it to dry (doesn't take long). Use a glove, it will stain your skin. I then apply Pro Oil, wiping with a single layer blue shop towel. A couple of those and it's done.
I clamp a large punch, vertical, in a vice to use as a pivot for the stock, using the front action screw hole. I can swing it around without touching the finish, can carefully flip it over, grasping the screw I put in the front sling swivel hole and gripping the taped pad.
It takes some practice with the Fiebings, but works well. Fiebings has to be applied to the dry finish, not the raw wood. The final coats of Pro Oil cover the Fiebings. Pro Oil is tougher/harder than Tru-Oil. Brownells has it.
DF
