Well I would agree with Ron on the first part concerning double set triggers .
Once you get the adjustment screw set , drop a bead of Super glue on it. Myself I like just a dab of epoxy . For what ever reason a lot of the CVA double sets like to adjust themselves .

Now if you have a single trigger , then your going to have one of two types of tumblers on the lock .
You will have to pull your lock out to see which you have . As Ron state be careful with the front lock screw . If you forget and the spring falls , you will have to lift the barrel or fight the nose cap .

a) will have a sear engagement screw / feather screw on the tumbler . With the lock out , if you look right on the top edge of the tumbler �small cam that goes through the lock plate and the hammer attaches to � you will see a small screw with a coil spring
This small screw adjusts the depth the sear will engage in the full cock notch . The further its screwed in , the lighter the engagement and the lighter the trigger pull. The less its screwed in , the heavier the engagement and the heavier the trigger pull . . The coil spring keeps the screw from adjusting itself ..

b) type tumbler has not feather / engagement screw . Thus your sear should fall to the full depth of the full cock notch

Now what can happen with both these is that the nose of the sear can break off or the full cock notch of the tumbler �not uncommon to happen with CVA�
. When that happens the sear will not fully engage the full cock notch while at the same time engaging the � cock ..

So here is what I would do .
First I would remove the lock .
With the lock out of the stock , work over its functions by bring it to � cock , then to full cock . Look for engagement of both notches.
If the lock doesn�t want to stay at full cock when not in the stock , then look for the adjustment screw for tumbler (a). back the crew out and try the lock again .
IF you don�t have the adjustment screw or have the screw backed all the way out and the lock still wont stay at full cock , then look for a broken sear nose or broken or improperly installed sear spring .

While you have the lock out do as the others said and lean it up good .

Now if the lock works fine outside the stock , then I would look at the set trigger if you have one .
Simply re install the lock , back the small screw out that Ron mentioned .

If it still doesn�t want to stay at full cock , then you most likely have an issue with wood clearance in the sear hole .
The factory CVA stocks are very soft . Frankly so are all the parts in the locks . So what can happen is if you over tighten the lock bolts , you can warp the lock plate or compress the wood of the lock mortis . This will cause the lock to can just enough that the sear hit�s the wood on the bottom of the sear hole , just enough to not allow full engagement of the full cock notch . It can also effect other places and cause parts to drag or bind .

What you will need to do is use transfer ink to find where your getting contact with the wood .
For ink you can use candle soot , lipstick , black sharpie marker �� Coat the bottom of the sear end of the sear with your chosen transfer material . Carefully set the lock back in . tighten it down , then work the lock a few time .. You then must remove the lock and look for color to be transferred to the wood from the lock .. The colored wood is then removed and you repeat the process tell you no longer get transfer .

So IMO your most likely going to find one of the above to be your problem as all of them are very common issues on CVA , Traditions and Jukar

Last edited by captchee; 10/20/14.
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