The screws are the weak point on the factory mounts.
I use them on a T3 .243 and they are fine. On something with more recoil i would replace the screws or go with a Weaver type base/ring combo.
I have used them with no problem at all, the front ring has a stud which mounts in a corresponding hole so they are not going to move.
I do replace the screws with harder ones which can be purchased at practically any hardware store (or big box store). The screws are soft but I doubt that that changing them is necessary unless one changes scopes quite often as I have a tendency to do. I have noticed that after the rings have been on the rifle for a while the screws can be a bit tight this is probably caused by the dissimilar medals since the screws are steel and the rings are aluminum. In my case changing them to a harder screw is just a precaution to be sure that I don't end up drilling one out after rounding out a head. A couple of dollars well spent in my estimation.
If you are going for lightweight I doubt that you could find a lighter set of rings for a T-3.
drover
223 Rem, my favorite cartridge - you can't argue with truckloads of dead PD's and gophers.
24hourcampfire.com - The site where there is a problem for every solution.
I think they would have held just fine on my 270 winchester SL BUT just for extra hold I used an extra ring and changed out the screws to harder ones. Also Lightly lapped the rings and bedded them with JB weld.
There's been more than one form of failure in the Tikka rings. Soft screws, the centering pin getting bent from recoil, for the $35 shipped you can get Talleys for on EBay it's really a no brainier to me.
Buddies have had them for years with no problem. Depends on how hard you use them. You can't go wrong either way. I had one "drill" job many years ago. You must make sure the metric hex tool is squarely lined up before you start torquing. The cap rings are fine, but I think too many crank the hell out of the base screw and get into trouble. Your experience may be different, however.
Last edited by bigwhoop; 09/04/15.
My home is the "sanctuary residence" for my firearms.
It cost me 50 cents each for 6 new screws from Home Depot. The factory screws were lacking, but for $3 total investment I felt the factory mounts were as good as anything else.
Most people don't really want the truth.
They just want constant reassurance that what they believe is the truth.
Doesn't 16Bore (or his dad) offer the modified Talleys for the Tikkas. I don't own one but have seen pictures of the machined Talleys on here and read where a lot of guys who got them were very pleased.
I didn't want to take a chance with all the mixed reviews and just replaced them with talleys . Love them. My buddy went with DNZ one piece on his tikka. Natchez had one piece talleys for $30 in stainless .
All of them do something better than the 30-06, but none of them do everything as well.
I use Talley's on My Tikka's but I dont see any problem with using the factory rings as long as you change out the extremely soft screws......Good luck.....Hb
Doesn't 16Bore (or his dad) offer the modified Talleys for the Tikkas. I don't own one but have seen pictures of the machined Talleys on here and read where a lot of guys who got them were very pleased.
John
I have 5 T3s, they all wear 16bore's Talleys.
My dad has 3, same.
P
Obey lawful commands. Video interactions. Hold bad cops accountable. Problem solved.
Pharmseller - " I have 5 T3s, they all wear 16bore's Talleys."
Can't fault the logic here...be kinda tuff using duct tape or chewing gum to re-attach Tikka rings if the screws break. Not impressed w/pair that came w/my T3. Homesteader