Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Rimfires 10/22 trigger question

I have a bug to step up a 10/22
I really like that newer archangel stock

I bought one and my question is
Do I send the trigger to Brimstone Gunsmith read lots of good a while back here or just get the new Ruger BX trigger and use it

Looking for some input from those who have used them
Thanks Hank

I am working on one now. I will get back to ya on this. Probably tomorrow via PM. Or maybe I will call ya.

Too much $hit to type and I have 2 more triggers here to tune right now.........

Rework the factory, I can get them to 18-20oz with me creep

I was just looking at a BX trigger yesterday. Not really all that great if you ask me. I'd just rework the factory trigger or upgrade the hammer to a kid or volquartsen. That's all I did to my latest target model. The volquartsen target hammer and shim kit is a great upgrade and simple to do. Well worth the $38.00 IMHO...

The BX is well worth the coin IMO.

I don't know how perfect people need a 10/22's trigger to be but to me the BX is the most return vs. money spent.





Travis

Agree totally with Travis on the BX trigger.

KIDD...

I have a $140 STS trigger from 10 years ago.

Why the guy stopped making them, I dunno, he wanted to make long range rifles or something.

They are great.

How hard is it to switch to one of the BX assemblies? I am not very handy when it comes to such things.

About as simple as it gets.

If you can take apart a 10/22 you can throw in the BX.



Travis

This. Get the drop in and forget about it

http://www.coolguyguns.com/KIDD-Tri...r-Disconnect-and-Trigger-blade_p_95.html

After researching this myself, I believe this is what your decision will come down too.

#1 BX trigger, will be very easy and a big improvement.
Order it, read directions, drop it and you’re done.
One advantage to the BX option is you still have your old trigger group to fool around with as you please. You could even send the old group off to Brimstone, or try doing your own home trigger job.

#2 Brimstone will be a better big improvement, if a little more time consuming.
Brimstones basic #3 trigger work will (probably) produce better results than a BX, at less expense.
Their #2 trigger work will be noticeably better than a BX at about the same cost, and their #1 work will be a serious match grade trigger at a match grade cost.
With the Brimstone option you will have to deal with sending your trigger group to them and waiting for it to come back.

I got a Jard trigger group some time back.

It's not nearly as good as an older version Ruger trigger assembly that I rebuilt using Clark and Volquartsen parts, adding a Brownells trigger stop in the trigger guard.

It's about the best I've seen.

Note how I set the Leupold base back to accommodate the short ER of the 3-9x33 A/O EFR.

DF

Good looking stock dirt farmer.

Thanks, just the std. Walnut stock from years back. I recut the checkering and refinished it with Tung oil/Urethane.

Glassed the action at the rear.



And the barrel channel near the end.



After those set up, I put glass at the barrel lug, drew the action down with the action screw. This puts downward tension on the barrel/action junction, locking it rock solid, no movement.

Looking good DF!

dirtfarmer, that is a damn nice rifle. I like the way you glassed the action in the stock too. Seems like the best mechanical way to do it. I only say this because that's the way I did mine. I don't know if it's right per se, because of all the other ways one can do this (based on the research I did), but it's the approach I used. My rifle shoots pretty good now too after finding the ammo it likes...

Thanks, it's mostly common sense.

Because the barrel isn't threaded, is a slip fit fastened at the bottom, it seems that downward pressure would sorta lock it in. Glass bedding the lug against the bottom of the stock just adds to the stiffness.

This is a Clark barrel (Walther) and it was set up for a tight receiver fit. I carefull cut the shank down until I got a tight, but not forced fit in the receiver. Bedded this way and with the tight fit, the barrel to receiver junction is rigid.

It shoot little bitty groups...

And with the can, very quietly...

DF

That's pretty cool. Mine shoots alright now after the bedding. I tried freefloating mine at first and that seemed to make things worse, so I went for the option you did and put a dab of epoxy near the tip of the forend and that seemed to stabilize everything and accuracy was much more consistent. Here's how it does now. Not perfect by any means, but not bad either:



The volquartsen target hammer made a world of difference too. Like I said before, I'd opt for that way before buying a bx trigger. I checked out 5 of those at the store (sportsman's warehouse) the other day, thinking the first one being extremely chitty feeling was a fluke. No fluke though, The other 4 seemed to be just as bad.

I don't know if it's right, but it works.

Free floating is advantageous with a rigidly joined barrel/action and where you're able to solidly bed the action.

Some custom 10-22 clones, IIRC, thread the barrel into the receiver. You could possibly free float one of those. Even then, the action bearing (bedding) surface is a LOT less than a bolt action. So, treating the barreled action as a unit, putting downward pressure on the barrel/action junction makes sense. And, there's only one action screw, none to secure the rear of the action, which would be nice to have when free floating the barrel.

Rigid, as in resisting movement from the vibration of firing. I know .22's don't create the movement of centerfire rounds, but they all set up vibrations and have their unique harmonics. Dampening all that aids repeatability and thus, precision which technically isn't the same as "accuracy", but folks seem to know what is meant with use of the latter term.

Like they say, proof is in the puddin...

DF

Subsonic almost as accurate as full powered rounds. 50' indoor range in the attic of my garage/shop. No telling how well it would group with good ammo...