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I recently installed a B&C Alaskan stock on my Rem 700 XCR-II in .25-06 (not the medalist or Alaskan II). The stock fit in all areas was great! Tang, ejection port, bottom metal were spot on, and the gap on either side of the barrel was even. I also swapped the trigger for a Timney. Rifle shot to original point of aim and groups were the same (just over 1 MOA). Eventually I may get around to bedding the lug but I want to get input from you guys about sanding off the pads at the fore end tip. Anyone else see significant changes when doing that? I was finishing off some Hornady ammo to get ready to reload some 115 BTs and 110 Accubonds, so load development should improve group size. I'm not worried about voiding the warranty by breaking out the Dremel tool on the stock so what say you??

Last edited by philgood80; 07/30/17.

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I always take out the "speed bumps..." Generally wrap a piece of 60 grit or 80 grit around an appropriately sized deep well socket...



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Originally Posted by Orion2000
I always take out the "speed bumps..." Generally wrap a piece of 60 grit or 80 grit around an appropriately sized deep well socket...


What he said.

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Originally Posted by dye7barrel
Originally Posted by Orion2000
I always take out the "speed bumps..." Generally wrap a piece of 60 grit or 80 grit around an appropriately sized deep well socket...


What he said.


Yep...first thing...


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Ok. Survey says: Do it.

I'll see how she does. Thanks guys!!


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I did it to my 1st generation 700 Ti and obviously the POI changed and the grouping size stayed the same.
I used the deep socket and sand paper method too, but just go easy, it cuts it real fast.
I love that stock.


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So what's wrong with the accuracy your getting now?


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A big depends. I have an m70 that needs the bump or full bedding. Also will add that bedding a m700 in the bc m40 stock really helped

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Originally Posted by philgood80
I recently installed a B&C Alaskan stock on my Rem 700 XCR-II in .25-06 (not the medalist or Alaskan II). The stock fit in all areas was great! Tang, ejection port, bottom metal were spot on, and the gap on either side of the barrel was even. I also swapped the trigger for a Timney. Rifle shot to original point of aim and groups were the same (just over 1 MOA). Eventually I may get around to bedding the lug but I want to get input from you guys about sanding off the pads at the fore end tip. Anyone else see significant changes when doing that? I was finishing off some Hornady ammo to get ready to reload some 115 BTs and 110 Accubonds, so load development should improve group size. I'm not worried about voiding the warranty by breaking out the Dremel tool on the stock so what say you??



I think bedding the lug is a higher priority then removing the pads off the foreend tip.

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Bedding around the recoil lug (only contact at the rear) and forward about 1.5" under the shank stiffened up the forend a good bit and improved the accuracy for me.


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