Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Ask The Gunwriters Dyna Bore Coat

I've got new 416 barrel that will here shortly, can I coat it before it is chambered and fitted to the action

Dunno. Why not apply the DBC after the bbl is fitted?

Certainly can do that. I was thinking that the coating would be as thorough as possible le since the barrel is freshly made with no shots fired.

Have DBC'd several new barrels, which worked very well. But always at least cleaned them with some degreasing solvent beforehand.

Thanks.

Is there a way to be confident with dbc absent a bore Scope?

I think the DBC helps in the throat as much or more than anywhere.

I do a break in and then DBC to fill in the low spots.

My gunsmith runs a patch through the bore at least oncd to get any chips out after chambering--I've watched him do it. He also proof fires the gun before he returns it to the customer.

I did considerable experimenting with DBC when it appeared around 2008. Eventually they used my directions in pre-cleaning, which went something like this:

Wrap a caliber-sized bore brush with at least one cotton patch. Then smear the patch with JB Compound, and run it back-and-forth 20 times. The brush/patch combo MUST be tight enough to take some effort to push through the bore. If one patch isn't enough, use two,

Next, clean out the residue from the JB with a typical bore solvent such as Hoppe's, or even rubbing alcohol, using cotton patches on an appropriately sized pointed jag. Use one patch at a time until the patches come out pale.

Clean with any typical copper solvent, again until patches come out pale. Then degrease with rubbing alcohol or acetone on tight patches. I generally use acetone because it evaporates quicker than rubbing alcohol.

Used my Hawkeye borescope to develop this procedure, and never had a bore that wasn't absolutely clear of any sort of fouling--or failed to "take" DBC well.

I typically apply DBC after chambering but before shooting.

Has anyone used DBC on a muzzleloader? I'm wondering if it makes follow up shots load easier.

second the muzzleloader question. I have a 50cal Green Mountain that was mistreated, still shoots well but has some rough spots in barrel

It’s worked well for me on several rifles. Never tried on muzzleloader but am tempted. Have heard good reviews for use on muzzleloaders but am skeptical because I always thought it was the high pressure & friction of the typical high powered, jacketed rifle rounds that “cured” it...

I’m probably wrong about that but don’t know the guys who’ve reviewed it’s use on muzzleloaders. Hard to imagine black powder & patched round balls creating the requisite pressure & friction.

Dunno

How does it work it in rifles that are used exclusively with cast bullets? To be more specific, target rifles using cast bullets.

I think it would have to be cured with jacketed loads first

Yes, I've treated a few and it does great things to bore. Fouling seems to come off much easier. I just did my brand new Pedersoli Brown Bess with DBC before firing the first time. It's down in the reloading cave, standing barrel-down as I write.

I'm generally at least spit patching between shots. I haven't attempted a fast reload on game in 20 years, and I have to admit it was not pretty. I may not be the best source. However, I will say that DBC doe make getting a ramrod down the barrel a bit easier, and more fouling comes out on the first pass.

More than one muzzleloader manufacturer was installing DBC in their new rifles a few years ago. Can't remember the brands, but may find them in my notes somewhere.

Have installed DBC in a couple of rifles old enough to have somewhat pitted barrels, probably due to corrosive primers. It helped noticeably with cast-bullet accuracy.

DBC also reduces plastic-fouling in shotgun chokes.

Sufficient heat for curing DBC comes from burning powder.

On a new barrel, I would do a basic break in before applying it.

The first few bullets down a fresh chamber are what smooth out the swarf from the chambering operation in the throat area. I wouldn't do anything that would introduce a variable to that process.

Good shootin' -Al

After applying Dyna Bore Coat I recommend using a starting load for about the first five rounds down the barrel.Factory loads should be OK because they run a little lower pressure.

Al,

I haven't done a formal "break-in" of a new barrel in years. Instead I just start shooting them, cleaning after every range session for a while--which does the same thing.

This also let's me know if the barrel night benefit from DBC. Many of today's don't, even factory barrels. One of our PD rifles is a heavy-barreled Remington 700 .223 I bought new in 2001--which was before DBC appeared, but right about the same time Ramshot TAC came out. Took it on a PD shoot that Ramshot held, and the rifle basically never fouled, at least not enough to affect accuracy.

Didn't clean it until we got home, and there was only the faintest hint of both copper and powder fouling, which came out with one patch of solvent--whereupon accuracy went south for about 15 rounds, until a tiny bit of fouling built up again. Cleaned it again after another 500 rounds without cleaning, and the same thing happened.

Never DBC'd it until several thousand rounds later, when the throat got a little rough and accuracy deteriorated some. Fired enough bore-lapping shots to eliminate the roughness, which brought most of the accuracy back, but apparently caused the bore to foul more. That's when I DBC'd it, and it went back to never needing cleaning.

Have a few other factory rifles since then that acted a lot like that one, especially hammer-forged barrels--another reason I don't clean 'em much anymore.

John