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Thanks Stringnut... Thanks Matt.

I going to do some poking around this week.

I'm not shy on spending some money (figure this is a $8k - $10k rig when I am done needing it... anyway). Just over my head for now, but we will get her figured out.

Can a DPF just be swapped out with a new one... or is that dumb or cost prohibitive? Or deleted/eliminated?

I have 4 Cummins trucks, backhoes, gens etc.

All are pre DPF and DEF


If you are not actively engaging EVERY enemy you encounter... you are allowing another to fight for you... and that is cowardice... plain and simple.



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The dpf can be swapped, but, don’t jump to the conclusion that it is bad. If it is passing soot it is bad. They are expensive and usually not the root cause of the problem. It can be some relatively inexpensive sensors. Need a code to tell for sure.

Some trucks can have the dpf deleted. Not sure if anyone does it on Mitsubishi. Right up front I will tell you it is illegal. I will not answer any questions about deleting emission systems, or , respond to any posts that mention doing so. My company has extreme rules regarding emission tampering that would result in the loss of my job if I discussed it. Can also result in a large personal fine for me.

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My WAG from thousands of miles away, your DPF system is in need of service/replacement. If it was a short hopper of a truck (guessing so based on mileage) the DPF is probably nearing the end of its service life. It could be an associated EGR problem or some such. I’m guessing that you may wind up putting more into it than you had hoped. On the other hand, you could just run it till it dies or you sell it. Knowing what it is will let you make the decision that it is vital or can be run for a while without further damage.

As mentioned, there are a slew of sensors that can also go bad. Since it doesn’t have DEF/SCR you have a few less to worry about. Does it blow *any* smoke of any color out of the exhaust when on the throttle?

Last edited by K1500; 03/14/22.
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Originally Posted by stringnut
The dpf can be swapped, but, don’t jump to the conclusion that it is bad. If it is passing soot it is bad. They are expensive and usually not the root cause of the problem. It can be some relatively inexpensive sensors. Need a code to tell for sure.

Some trucks can have the dpf deleted. Not sure if anyone does it on Mitsubishi. Right up front I will tell you it is illegal. I will not answer any questions about deleting emission systems, or , respond to any posts that mention doing so. My company has extreme rules regarding emission tampering that would result in the loss of my job if I discussed it. Can also result in a large personal fine for me.


Copy That...

-------------------------------------------------------------

Progress...

- Have the phone number of a mobile mechanic that MAY have the right code reader stuff for JPro. We will see. Also asking around for other Mitz sources.

- Started yesterday and turned OFF the engine brake (maybe that was left on by the previous owner not knowing (like I said... Good guy... runs mexican restaurants... knows nothing mechanical). Anyway, the Jake brake turns off.

- Poked around some... found all the filters (oil, fuel, air)... more inspections... most everything looks fine except the upper radiator hose was vacuumed flat. Sticking T-Stat maybe? Popped the radiator cap and she went round again.

- The DPF looks ROUGH (rust wise). No smoke (forgot to check for soot).

- Was trying to bring to temp and possibly force a regen (if codes prevent this... so be it)... then I looked down and ZERO FUEL... shut her down (don't want to have to bleed off injectors). Checked fuel manually with a stick (30 gallons+), so a bad float or a blown fuse.

- Tried to restart and batteries went weak. I'll get her restarted today. Batteries seem OK, not great, but maybe enough to not replace immediately. She has sat alot on the previous guy.

- An O2 type sensor at the front of the exhaust was loose to my touch. I'll pull that today and inspect... and reinstall. Other sensors seem normal.

- OBD II was odd. Normal factory female, BUT some very newish OBD parts wire tied in the zone (somebody has been trying something I reckon). Maybe the previous owner knew something... maybe the guy before him. Box has a Maryland phone number and the guys are Mexican immigrants. Who knows? I have been burned by Maryland stuff so many times I have zero faith in anything from there. The BOX say Maryland, but it is NOT the original box, The actual FE180 is a Virginia title and the overall cab and chassis is very nice for a 2008. Good looking frame, axle, trans (Asian), suspension, brake lines etc. Very nice and normal stuff.

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]

Pic of the DPF... Very rusty failing flanges (removal and reinstall possible??? MAYBE... after some MIG work.

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]

Obviously codes are very important. Working on it.

That is my 1989 D250 12 valve in the background... if anyone is wondering.




Last edited by CashisKing; 03/15/22. Reason: Typos and more info.

If you are not actively engaging EVERY enemy you encounter... you are allowing another to fight for you... and that is cowardice... plain and simple.



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The obd wiring added in is not an issue. It looks to be a splitter for a data logger. As long as it is not connected to anything cut it out and pitch it.
The fuel gauge is not a blown fuse. There is no actual power to the fuel sender. You may read voltage there with a multi meter, but, it will carry not carry a load. It is supplied by the ecu. The other side is a ground and what it does is measure how hard , so to speak, it pulls to ground. Do not test any sensor with a test light , or, put any voltage to them. All sensors are ecu supplied and some are 5 volts.

Not to really rain on your parade, but, Mitsu has pulled out of the US market. Parts for the older trucks are getting harder to find. One of the reasons we dropped our dealership. Trucks had a tendency to sit around for a log time trying to find parts.

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Ran her a good bit today parked... after a quick jump. Ran very smooth. Super impressive drive train. Nothing weird except the fuel gauge, the brakes and the yellow and red CEL.

Could not force a manual regen... presumably because the CEL.code is blocking it? She was at temp when I tried... in N with the E brake set

Engine brake light is now out. When engaged on the steering column arm an audible response is heard, but dash light did not activate (learning this system I guess... instant? or build pressure?).

Brake pedal is weak/soft... to the floor. Looked for the Master Cylinder Reservoir with no luck... will check the manual.

Possibly the red CEL is brake related?

Called several mobile mechanics... no luck yet. Need to track down a FUSO specific code reader. No codes with regular reader.


If you are not actively engaging EVERY enemy you encounter... you are allowing another to fight for you... and that is cowardice... plain and simple.



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After researching Mitsubishi FE180 OBD II scanners I am taking a chance on a NEXAS NL102 Diesel Heavy Duty Truck Car Diagnostic Scanner DPF Regen Oil Reset 2 in 1 Code Reader.

The FE180 is not specifically listed, but it seems like a good scanner for other stuff anyway... so maybe. This some seriously complex stuff to my simple brain.

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]

"Normal" OBD IIs are picking up nothing.

My mechanics are checking brakes today (if they can even find the MC... I couldn't)... yeah I know... can't find the dang Master Cylinder Reservoir? You must be an idiot.

Maybe the red CEL is brake related and not DRF. Looks like it Vacuum Over Hydraulic Brakes...

Regardless... it is a good education.

The more I research... the more I realize this is a badass little chassis.

I may end up keeping and turn into another dump... we shall see. 18k to 25.7k GVWR/GCWR


If you are not actively engaging EVERY enemy you encounter... you are allowing another to fight for you... and that is cowardice... plain and simple.



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If the DPF light is on constantly on and not flashing, the unit is bad, it won't regenerate. At a minimum it will need service and reprograming the computer. No code reader or scanner available to the general public will solve the problem. Break down and take it to a dealer. Could also be that some back-yard mechanic tried to bypass the system by using a jumper somewhere.

Phil

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Originally Posted by haverluk
Leonard,

I have a Autel MaxiDiag MD805 diagnostic tool that I can put in the mail for you. I will cover you vehicle and gives some more functionality than a standard OBD II reader. Just mail it back when you are done with it. Let me know…


I wrote Beijing and asked if the Autel MaxiDiag MD805 will get the job done... or if there is something better that they recommend.

Finding the Fuso FE180 as a "listed vehicle" is dang hard. Couple sites claim, but they seem sketchy looking scammish...

I don't mind spending money, but would like to troubleshoot locally if I can first. A tow isn't cheap... and blowing up an engine on a RED CEL is worse.


If you are not actively engaging EVERY enemy you encounter... you are allowing another to fight for you... and that is cowardice... plain and simple.



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Originally Posted by Greyghost
If the DPF light is on constantly on and not flashing, the unit is bad, it won't regenerate. At a minimum it will need service and reprograming the computer. Could also be that some back-yard mechanic tried to bypass the system by using a jumper somewhere.

Phil


The DPF light is not on... or the bulb is out. The master red CEL is my worry. May or may not be DPF stuff.

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]

Originally Posted by Greyghost
No code reader or scanner available to the general public will solve the problem.


WORD...

This is some complex chit.

But I ain't deterred... yet.


If you are not actively engaging EVERY enemy you encounter... you are allowing another to fight for you... and that is cowardice... plain and simple.



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Look and see if Pocket Fleet out of Canada has anything. They used to be pretty good but IDK about the last 4 or 5 years.

Looks like pocket fleet is hooked up with diesel laptops. They have a free software but you will still need a data connector and a laptop.

Last edited by DryPowder; 03/16/22.

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You can always register with fleet service center, $25 Day, $200 Month, or $1,500 Year.

Link

even for a day, it might provide you with some data pointing you in the right direction saving you a lot in time and effort. Or at least providing you with current information on local service centers. And which equipment might work.

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If you are not actively engaging EVERY enemy you encounter... you are allowing another to fight for you... and that is cowardice... plain and simple.



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Originally Posted by DryPowder
Look and see if Pocket Fleet out of Canada has anything. They used to be pretty good but IDK about the last 4 or 5 years.

Looks like pocket fleet is hooked up with diesel laptops. They have a free software but you will still need a data connector and a laptop.


Thanks... called these guys (at least I think I did... USA based version?).

There is a very specific AllTell unit to read codes. Comes with 3 cords/plugs. I will get it ordered today or tomorrow (CHEAP @ $200).

Truck is running like a sewing machine... smooth and positive in every way. Let run for 30 minutes yesterday... will not take a regen.

Brakes are soft. Brake reservoir is FULL... BUT that may mean it was refilled before I got the truck and a bleed is required. Fluid is extra clear. Working on that as well. Tip-top brakes are required.

Brake reservoir on the dash board (very weird).

Quite a few folks have tried to buy the truck "As-Is... Where Is" at 200% of what I paid... so no worries on an eventual exit when she has served her purpose for me.

But I may keep and build out as a dump or flatbed. These things are pretty badass. 5.8 rear or something like that.


If you are not actively engaging EVERY enemy you encounter... you are allowing another to fight for you... and that is cowardice... plain and simple.



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Originally Posted by Greyghost
If the DPF light is on constantly on and not flashing, the unit is bad, it won't regenerate. At a minimum it will need service and reprograming the computer. Could also be that some back-yard mechanic tried to bypass the system by using a jumper somewhere.

Phil


NO regen light is on... Just the Master RED CEL.

I am leaning toward brakes at the moment... or possible a stuck T-Stat. Upper hose was drawn in a while back (but not see that since). Operating temp is normal. Coolant looks top shelf.

Found some paperwork... this was a Fleet maintained vehicle for most of her life.

Last edited by CashisKing; 04/06/22. Reason: Typos

If you are not actively engaging EVERY enemy you encounter... you are allowing another to fight for you... and that is cowardice... plain and simple.



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Originally Posted by CashisKing
Originally Posted by Greyghost
If the DPF light is on constantly on and not flashing, the unit is bad, it won't regenerate. At a minimum it will need service and reprograming the computer. Could also be that some back-yard mechanic tried to bypass the system by using a jumper somewhere.

Phil


NO regen light is on... Just the Master RED CEL.

I am leaning toward brakes at the moment... or possible a stuck T-Stat. Upper hose was drawn in a while back (but not see that since). Operating temp is normal. Coolant looks top shelf.

Found some paperwork... this was a Fleet maintained vehicle for most of her life.


As someone who used to maintain fleets - that's not always a plus. MUCH depends on which fleet it was part of.


Me



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Finally back to the Fuso...

Batteries were some of the drama... two reasons...

1) One of the posts was FUBAR (spinning INSIDE the core/wrong volts (have not checked... had to cut it out at the post))

2) Batteries were wired in Series, BUT it is a 12 volt truck... Oh Boy! Who knows... previous owner stuff.

Anyway, pulled both batteries... put in a good single 31 (load tested volts and amps)... fixed some grounds... and truck lit up perfectly and ran down the road just fine (3 miles).

Engine lights still on (yellow and red CEL).

Other problem is soft brakes... front bleeders are top (unusual to me).

Also she pegs out on HOT almost immediately... but she is not hot or overheating... pretty sure that is ECM or voltage switch related. Yeah... I know 24 volts... Oh Boy!

Three permanent codes... for folks that like to help solve oddball stuff. PMs are OK also.

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]

As for the naysayers about a stupid buy or post...

Papa had a sign over his desk... "People Who Say It Cannot Be Done Should Not Interrupt Those Who Are Doing It".

That goes WAY BEYOND a Fuso... Let that sink in... Please.


If you are not actively engaging EVERY enemy you encounter... you are allowing another to fight for you... and that is cowardice... plain and simple.



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Originally Posted by GeoW
Exhaust brake indicator lamp, Exhaust brake activated

Correct... figured that out... Thanks.

It is on a switch... presumably set by previously own over the soft brakes... it is operational and turned off now.


If you are not actively engaging EVERY enemy you encounter... you are allowing another to fight for you... and that is cowardice... plain and simple.



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Originally Posted by stringnut
Where do you live that you have a 24 system? Mitsubishi never imported 24v vehicles into North America or Mexico. I can check with my Mitsubishi lad’s tomorrow morning. I let my mitsu training lapse in 2004 , to focus on Mack and Hino, as I hate them little bastards.

Yepp... previous guy had wired in Series... Oh boy!


Originally Posted by stringnut
You also state that it is air cooled. This may be possible if you are out of the North American market, but, have never heard of it.

I misspoke if I said that... Normal operation on tested coolant with no known leaks is knowledge at this time, but did observe the upper coolant hose sucked in once (maybe a sticking T-Stat?)

Originally Posted by stringnut
That should have a 4M50 motor which is indeed a 4.9 liter. It also should have a dpf as it was built after 1/1/2007. It will not have scr.

Beautiful running engine... Positive shifting Asian automatic transmission...

Originally Posted by stringnut
Does your code reader spit out anything? Mids, pids, ppids, sids, psids, and fmi can help run it down. Unfortunately there are many things that can cause the check engine light. As it runs well it is likely egr, or dpf, related. Not a good thing. Expensive and nearly impossible to diagnose without the proper software. If you run long enough something bad will happen. Engine was good and so was the trans. However emissions were very problematic for us. If you bought it with the light on you may have bought someone else’s problems.

YEPP... we will see...


If you are not actively engaging EVERY enemy you encounter... you are allowing another to fight for you... and that is cowardice... plain and simple.



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Originally Posted by Greyghost
You can always register with fleet service center, $25 Day, $200 Month, or $1,500 Year.

Link

even for a day, it might provide you with some data pointing you in the right direction saving you a lot in time and effort. Or at least providing you with current information on local service centers. And which equipment might work.

Phil

Thanks... That level is over my head, but if I can find a local mechanic that understand that stuff I will be happy to do so/pay for his understanding/wrenching.


If you are not actively engaging EVERY enemy you encounter... you are allowing another to fight for you... and that is cowardice... plain and simple.



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