I had a inline years ago and gave it away to a kid. I recently picked up a cheap Wolf2 and quickly remembered what I disliked about shooting sabots. I'm shooting Harvester sabots over loose 777 and even if I brush good between shots, getting that sabot to seat the last inch is extremely difficult after the first shot and after 3 or 4 it's almost impossible. I don't have this problem with minis in my old side lock.
I don't expect 15 shots but what can I do to improve my results? Also is there a product that works well for removing any plastic residue on the rifling? Right now I'm cleaning with hot soapy water followed by CLP.
They say everything happens for a reason. For me that reason is usually because I've made some bad decisions that I need to pay for.
Switch to Holy Black. We run T/C sabots in our inlines and don't have the ring like that. If we have any at all it gets gone easily when we "clean" (dry brush, dump soot, water damp patch, alcohol patch, dry patch) between shots for "clean barrel" groups when sighting in or checking zero.
When we final clean it's brushing and patching with cold water and then a half dozen patches with Gumout carb cleaner. No plastic left in the bore, just clean and shiny.
Last edited by Feral_American; 10/14/23.
I prefer peace. But if trouble must come, let it come in my time, so that my children may live in peace. ~~ Thomas Paine
Sounds like you have a crud ring from 777 ignition and 209’s. A friend dropped back to 70grs 777 from 100grs and his ring went away. He also spit patch/dry patch between shots.
Are you using the recommended low-power primers? They were designed to reduce that crud. Other propellants in the 777 family like White Hots supposedly are cleaner too. When I was shooting 777 regularly, simply brushing it out was sufficient, but then I was lighting it with percussion caps in a sidelock.
Using a MagSpark and BH209 in a sidelock, I was able to shoot plenty of shots before things got tight. Power Belts loaded more easily than sabots too. Best of all, the barrel was easily cleaned with BH solvent, though any nitro solvent is supposed to work.
add a lubed wad over the powder. keeps the crud ring soft.
the consolidation of the states into one vast republic, sure to be aggressive abroad and despotic at home, will be the certain precursor of that ruin which has overwhelmed all those that have preceded. Robert E Lee ~Molɔ̀ːn Labé Skýla~
Are you using the recommended low-power primers? They were designed to reduce that crud. Other propellants in the 777 family like White Hots supposedly are cleaner too. When I was shooting 777 regularly, simply brushing it out was sufficient, but then I was lighting it with percussion caps in a sidelock.
Using a MagSpark and BH209 in a sidelock, I was able to shoot plenty of shots before things got tight. Power Belts loaded more easily than sabots too. Best of all, the barrel was easily cleaned with BH solvent, though any nitro solvent is supposed to work.
I’m using the Chedite primers. They were the only ones available to me. I’ve tried 90-100 gr of 777. Maybe I’ll drop off and start w 80. Groups hav not been great anyway
They say everything happens for a reason. For me that reason is usually because I've made some bad decisions that I need to pay for.
Just watched this today. They didn’t use the 777 primers for this test either, but IIRC White Hots were the cleanest-burning of those tested, had low SDs, and gave good velocities.
I still recommend BH209 over other substitutes, but realize that price and availability are major issues with it right now. I’m sitting on a 5-pounder I scored before “the troubles” so that’s what I’m using in any gun I can light with primers.
I have a wolf and shoot 777 3f with musket caps and a 495gr no excuses with a over powder wad. I do get a ring....but I can shoot 5x easily without patching.
Originally Posted by BrentD
I would not buy something that runs on any kind of primer given the possibility of primer shortages and even regulations. In fact, why not buy a flintlock? Really. Rocks aren't going away anytime soon.
I tried switching to the White hots. It helped the crud ring some but I'm still having difficulty with that last inch. The upside is my groups tightened up nicely so I'll stick with them for now ant start looking for some different primers to try in the off season.
They say everything happens for a reason. For me that reason is usually because I've made some bad decisions that I need to pay for.
Well I guess I need an education since it's never too late to learn something, even when what little hair you have left is grey
What exactly is a "carbon ring "? I've been shooting and hunting with muzzleloading rifles for right at 4 decades, and have yet to experience a carbon ring that I'm aware of. I only use traditional, so is it a thing exclusive to inline rifles ? What is it, and what is the cause of such a thing ?
I am new to Mz shooting. I experienced it with my first and only Mz a Remington Ultimate Muzzleloader three seasons ago. I started out with the Rem bullets which are 250 gr Barnes in a special sabot. Rem said using Blackhorn 209 would void the warranty. I used 777 pellets.
After the first shot pushing the bullet and sabot to bottom was difficult. Third shot was almost impossible. Both those loads encountered a resistance near the bottom which I had read it was a crud ring. Residue of some sort clinging to the barrel. If a cleaning patch was used between shots it was easy to load. Also a spit patch in the field followed by a dry patch made loading easier.
I put in an arrowhead breech plug and began using BH209 and crud ring was gone! Multiple loading became easy.
It is good to know that white hots are not making as bad a crud ring as 777 pellets.
I always run a wet patch and then two dry dry patches after every firing. That is the condition of the bore when I shoot an elk. If necessary, I can always get one more shot, but that is infrequent for me. I use BH209 or black. I gave up on 777 and Pyrodex long ago. Now that BH209 is $60 for 8 ounces, it will be straight black for me once I use the jug I have now.
If God wanted you to walk and carry things on your back, He would not have invented stirrups and pack saddles
Well I guess I need an education since it's never too late to learn something, even when what little hair you have left is grey
What exactly is a "carbon ring "? I've been shooting and hunting with muzzleloading rifles for right at 4 decades, and have yet to experience a carbon ring that I'm aware of. I only use traditional, so is it a thing exclusive to inline rifles ? What is it, and what is the cause of such a thing ?
Best way I can describe it is a burnt powder ring sitting slightly in front of where the sabot should sit. In my old side locks shooting minis or patched round balls over black I never had an issue with seating the bullet over the powder. Now with the plastic sabots being so tight they get hung up on that crud to the point you can not force the sabot fully down on the powder quickly without swabbing the barrel between shots.While that's easy enough to do at the bench, I'm concerned with being able to reload in the field when I need a quick followup.
They say everything happens for a reason. For me that reason is usually because I've made some bad decisions that I need to pay for.