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I have written a number of times (aside from in my book) about the relative strength of the longer "piano" type hinge most often used in roof-prism binoculars. It is one of the reasons roof prism binoculars are considered tougher than most porro prism binoculars (the other being the stronger mounting of the prisms themselves).

Now, some porro prism binoculars also use piano-type hinges, notably some compact models that have the objective lenses closer together, as opposed to most full-size porro models which have the objectives further apart.

And aside from the Swarovski EL's, there are some roof prism binoculars that don't use a single piano hinge, notably the very small "pocket" models. These have "barrels" that are so small that they're usually connected by a interconnecting piece with hinges on both sides.

I believe you already put your finger (or words) on the debate over the Swarovski EL's already, when you noted: "Reading the Swarovski EL advertisements givs the impression that there aren't any disadvantages."

With all due respect to my friends at Swarovski, there is no way the EL-type hinges are as strong as a piano-type hinge.

It was also Swarovski's ad department, as near as I can determine, who came up with the propaganda that 30mm-tubed riflescopes have a brighter image than 1" tubed scopes. This is also demonstrably not true, and I also detailed why in OPTICS FOR THE HUNTER.

If the humanity's collective wisdom were based on advertising, we'd all be in a lot of trouble.

JB


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I seem to have missed those articles, though I had noticed a few posts of yours that mentioned the piano type hinges were stronger. Thanks for elaborating on the hinge designs as well as I really hadn�t given those much thought before.

In your booklet (excerpt on Nikon�s website) �The Complete Optics Guide for Successful Hunting� it states, �Bigger objective lenses also weigh more. This might seem a disadvantage, but this extra forward weight provides steadiness. A steady binocular provides a sharper view.�

Do you think that there is an optimum weight range that corresponds to a particular power?

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Now that I think of it, yeah. About the highest-X binoculars most people can effectively hand-hold is 12x, and I would prefer something in the mid-30 ounce range for those, and probably around 28-30 for 10x. That is for long-term, "serious" glassing.

JB


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JB, what is your opion on the ability of the heavy tactical style scopes to hold up under recoil (Nightforce NXS,S&B PMll,Us Optics,ETC)
Thanks for you answer in advance.....



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I haven't shot many personally (and those not enough to make any difference) but have fooled with them enough to know they are apparently built like brick outhouses, so should hold up well. Their weight, of course, is why so many realy stout "tactical mounts" have been developed.

The problems with heavy scopes not holding up to recoil are mostly found in scopes that are built the same way as lighter scopes. In other words, yes, making a scope heavier TENDS to make it more vulnerable to the forces of recoil (along with the mounts), but only if, say, a 5-20x is built the same way as the same company's 3-9x. This is why in "conventional" (non-tactical?) scopes, the smaller scopes tend to hold up better than the bigger ones: They do tend to be made the same way.

But most tactical scopes are REALLY beefed up. I still wonder, however, if in the long run they would hold up as well as an ACOG. But then ACOG's don't come in high-X either!

JB


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Thanks...........



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Mule Deer,
Thought I would ask your opinion on a scope for a 340 Weatherby. I recently purchased the Weatherby and am looking for good advice on what glass it should wear. Eye relief, glass quality and durability are what I consider the main issues at hand. I'd rather not pay over $1000 for a scope, but need an opinion as to what is not acceptable versus what is an excellent choice versus what is overly expensive. I have looked at the Burris Black Diamond series in 30 mm scopes (4-16x) as well as the VX-L Leupold (4.5-14x), but would like your opinion. Of course there's another issue: 30mm versus 1". There are lots of variables and lots of scopes out there. Please help!
Thanks
Elk

P.S. Just caught your comment on the Swarovski 1" Versus 30mm brightness issue. Interesting and just learned something. If the 1" is as bright as the 30mm, then why have the extra weight of a 30mm??? Hmmmm...


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for the price,nikon is hard to beat.all my bino's are nikon


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Thanks Gamma4diesel. I have been looking seriously at the Nikon Monarch gold as well. Nice long eye relief and a nice price! A very definite plus.
Elk


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MD, have you tried the Meopta 7X42? I've heard 7X42 binoculars have a really great view and I can get one of these for $619 delivered. Any idea how they would compare to the Leica Trinovid 7X42? Thanks.

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I haven't tried the 7x42, but the 10x42 Meopta (Cabela's Euro) is one one my favroite binoculars. That sounds like a great buy!

It's hard to find ANYTHING that matches Leica, but Meopta makes very fine glass.

JB


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Elk: I'm not an exper for I do know a little bit about the 340 smile
As you know I have a swaro PH 1.75X6X42 on mine, but by far the beast value in terms of durability, quality and eye relief and believe me you NEED eye relief with a 340, the Leupold 2.5X8X36 is in my opinion the BEST option.

As far as 30mm scopes, what they give you is more range of travel to adjust the X hairs and contrary to what gunwriters like Larry Weishun(sp?) say, a 30mm tube does NOT "gather" more light (scopes don't "gather" they "transmit" light) than 1" tubes. jorge


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Would appreciate some feedback on the 8x32 Signatures. I'm looking for a mid-size unit with good low light vis and light weight. These only weigh 16 oz and I know their scopes have good glass but I've never looked thru these binos. Also need to stay less than $250. Considering also the 8x36 Nikon Monarchs but they're at the top end of size & weight I'm looking for. TIA

(Also posted in "Optics" forum.)


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Since Shootem brought that size up, I'd like your thoughts about the very small and light Leupold Katmai 8x32, especially the optical penalties of their minimal size. Also, do you have any knowledge of S&W binocs, purportedly manufactured in the same facility as Leupolds? There's a $300 (?) 8x32 on sale here in Missoula for $99...

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Mule Deer ....

Hope I'm not out of line here asking you about spotting scopes.

I'm looking for a spotting scope in the medium price range .... $600 to $1200. Weight is a concern, but not overwhelming. (I'm not going ultra-light for sheep.) I want to be able to digiscope as well as spot game. Image quality is important, as is durability. The two I'm looking at are the Leupold 12X40 HD and the Pentax PF 65EDII with a zoom eyepiece. One of my friends swears by the Pentax, but I'm a long time Leupold fan/user. What are your picks among the spotting scopes in that price bracket, and are there some candidates I'm overlooking? Thanks.

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Mule Deer,

Six or seven years ago I bought a Pentax DCF WP 8x42 binocular based on some favorable comments you made. This has been a very good binocular but I have begun to wonder if I could significantly upgrade without spending too much money (I have a daughter in college and another who will be starting before too long so money is a limiting factor).
Can you suggest any models I might look at which would be a significant upgrade in performance but would not require a ton of cash?
Thanks for any suggestions you can make.

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endgame,

The ones you mention would be two of my top picks. The Leupold might have the edge in waterproofing.


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Dale,

Glad the Pentax glass worked out for you. Unfortunately, most of the "signficant upgrades" have gone up in porice considerably. Unless you really want to spend a LOT of money, I would stick with what you're got.


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I purchased Pentax DCF SP 8X42's several years ago and am impressed with the quality. Excellent lenses and costings in a magnesium body - I think they'll last.

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Okay Mule Deer, I'm going to come right and say it:::

It's time for another book on 'Optics for the Hunter'. It's been a while since the book came out. I bought it and gave it to a friend , never to be seen again. But the optics available have changed . Sooo, I'm encouraging you to put out a new edition.

One of my favorite parts of your book was about the 'cooking' of the European tests comparing US and European optics and the US optics got tested a lot before the tests, just to make the tests fair and even.


Retired cat herder.


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