John; Top of the morning to you sir, I hope the weather down in your part of Montana has been as mild as ours thus far and that you're well.
Thanks for bringing up the CWD issue, it's something that any travelling hunter needs to be aware of for sure.
We've started to do voluntary sampling of local deer here in BC and there's been a ban on bringing in any ungulate parts other than the boned out meat, hide and properly cleaned skull plate for a couple years.
There has been a bit of discussion on what "properly cleaned" might entail, but in discussions with the bios they'd like to see no tissue whatsoever and if one is inclined to give it a scrub with bleach they said it couldn't hurt.
But for sure where my family in Saskatchewan hunt there's CWD and it's been tough on the mulies especially.
I've been carrying a Silky Pocketboy 130 for a long time, but have never used it. I ream the pelvic canal from both, the inside and outside, and everything comes out as it should.
The best tool for coring azzholes I've come across.....
here's the oe pocketboy next to the 3d handle one (and the weight of the oe one); like I said the original handled one is heavier, but more sturdy and isn't overly heavy (the blades are ~ 1/2 ounce)
I don’t think folks are referring to separating the ball joint….they’re referring to separating the lower and upper rear legs by cutting through the joint immediately beneath the ‘heel’ or what most people think of as the ‘knee’.
I may try the Havalon saw the next time I do need a saw for something, as it does look handy.
Exactamundo.
A sharp knife will easily remove the lower legs once you learn where to cut. There’s a joint just below the hock on the hind legs that a knife will go right through. My dad worked in a butcher shop when I was a baby and he taught me where it is.
Here’s a video on how to do it. He’s doing it cold. It’s easier before the animal cools.
“In a time of deceit telling the truth is a revolutionary act.” ― George Orwell
It's not over when you lose. It's over when you quit.
I typically don't carry a saw that much anymore as I've gotten to where I prefer euro mounts most of the time but when I do I use a Stanley wood saw that I ground down so it wasn't so bulky and put a light weight handle on it. It's probably the best thing I've used for cutting through bone.
I have good luck with this for cutting bone. carry and extra blade. very light compact. I prefer gutless and bone out. but for carrying out quarters works well
[quote=T_Inman]I don’t think folks are referring to separating the ball joint….they’re referring to separating the lower and upper rear legs by cutting through the joint immediately beneath the ‘heel’ or what most people think of as the ‘knee’.
I may try the Havalon saw the next time I do need a saw for something, as it does look handy.
Exactamundo.
A sharp knife will easily remove the lower legs once you learn where to cut. There’s a joint just below the hock on the hind legs that a knife will go right through. My dad worked in a butcher shop when I was a baby and he taught me where it is.
Here’s a video on how to do it. He’s doing it cold. It’s easier before the animal cools.
Yep no need for a saw on legs or to split a pelvis, a knife can do all the work.
I have one of these I was given as a gift from my Father. It has ridden around as part of my "kill kit" for many, many years.(I don't care for the term honestly) The saw blade is more than enough to cap a skull and is still plenty sharp after close to 30 years.
They say everything happens for a reason. For me that reason is usually because I've made some bad decisions that I need to pay for.
Long ago we used to saw elk in half (down the backbone) with a Wyoming Saw when quartering them to carry out on horses. Then we realized it was easier to split the spine with a hatchet but still used a Wyoming saw to split the brisket and remove the antlers. For the last 10 years or so we've gone to the gutless method and carry a Milwaukee sawzall to remove antlers. You can do alot with a Wyoming Saw if you need to. For leg bones we've always just used a knife.
ttpoz
in silvam ne ligna feras (don't carry logs into the forest)
I copied some guy's saw idea on rokslide...drilled some 1/2" holes along a length of rigid conduit to skeletonize it (can't remember conduit size...probably 1/2"), Pressed this to an oval shape in a vise (with solid metal at the crimp, and holes along the flattish sides), and drilled a hole to hold a recip saw blade with a small capscrew and wingnut. When not in use, if you put the hole in the right place, you can shove the blade into the conduit and reinstall the bolt/wingnut. Probably not as light as Warden's 2oz saw but worked OK on a deer skull. Have not yet tried it on anything larger.