I got lots of good advice in my flooring thread, so I'm back needing more home repair advice. I'm working on repairing a section of damaged drywall on my ceiling and I'm quickly finding out that I have a lot to learn. I cut the damaged section out and put in a patch. I attached it to the joists, along with using a furring strip on the section past the joist. However, I'm finding that it's slightly higher than the existing sheet rock in one corner, but then in the middle it's slightly lower. The section that's higher isn't a big issue as I will mud over it and try to get it level. It's the part that's proud that I'm unsure how to tackle. I've read numerous sites saying to feather it out more, but I'm just not understanding how that's going to hide a bump in it. I started sanding trying to get it closer and you can see it's starting to go through the paper. At this point I stopped and decided I needed to do more research. What's the best way to tackle this from here? I honestly have no idea what I'm doing as I have very little drywall experience and what I've done in the past hasn't always looked great, but I'm trying to learn.
How big is the area that's heavy,can you just plow it out and fill? Or pull the patch and shave a little off what's holding it down. You can feather it out,you'll just have to go out a ways to hide it.
How big is the area that's heavy,can you just plow it out and fill? Or pull the patch and shave a little off what's holding it down. You can feather it out,you'll just have to go out a ways to hide it.
^ this. It aint rocket science but you have to pick one (or both) and do it. Stop thinking about it and do it. Its drywall & mud, not reinforced concrete.
And go wider. Taper it out further than you'd think. Rookie mistake is to go too much mud but not wide enough. You'll end up sanding it all off and still unhappy.
Go wide, taper it out. Wet sand.
Originally Posted by Archerhunter
Quit giving in inch by inch then looking back to lament the mile behind ya and wonder how to preserve those few feet left in front of ya. They'll never stop until they're stopped. That's a fact.
Yea, you are going to want those joints maybe 6 inches or more wide. The joint should be thick enough to cover in the center and wide enough to tapper that thickness so that a casual look won't ever notice it. There is also technique involved. Just look at how to do butt joints on YouTube.
Well first of all you'd better be putting some tape on those joints or they will be showing cracks in a couple of months. The best thing to do if you don't want to take the piece back down and shave the high spot off the back so it sits lower is to feather around the high spot with compound. Sometimes I will have to feather out up to 24" in order to blend a patch.
Yea, you are going to want those joints maybe 6 inches or more wide. The joint should be thick enough to cover in the center and wide enough to tapper that thickness so that a casual look won't ever notice it. There is also technique involved. Just look at how to do butt joints on YouTube.
This too^^^. A good YouTuber to watch is called the "Vancouver Carpenter".
You will need to tape the joints and then do a wide taper. Use a thinner joint compound and a 12" blade to really push it out past the edges. Save yourself a lot of mess by using a damp sponge to clean up the high spots before final sanding with a 220 grit paper. For patches I like to use 1/4" luan plywood behind the drywall. I overlap under the existing and patch by 3-4". That gives yoou plenty of room for screws and provides a solid foundation thatt helps prevent high and low spots.
God bless Texas----------------------- Old 300 I will remain what i am until the day I die- A HUNTER......Sitting Bull Its not how you pick the booger.. but where you put it !! Roger V Hunter
Seriously, I can do drywall, but I can run over to the cuarenta/hood and hire one of the guys I know for a 18-pack and not have to mess with it.
God bless Texas----------------------- Old 300 I will remain what i am until the day I die- A HUNTER......Sitting Bull Its not how you pick the booger.. but where you put it !! Roger V Hunter
Use a straight edge of sorts . Put it on the high spot ,move it around,you will see where the lows are ,fill those areas with joint compound. The flatter you can get the rock hung ,the easier it'll be. If you have multiple highs & lows spots ,it's going to be challenging if you do not do a lot of drywall " feathering" , so keep that in mind. If you are looking for perfection you need to start out with the sheetrock all flush
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First tape the seams or it’ll crack. A wide trowel/knife will let you bring the mud out far enough that the difference in thickness can’t be seen easily. Don’t over think it.
At a minimum, I would go around your new perimeter (new drywall) and score the top paper (not all the way to the gypsum) with a razor knife and pull it off wide enough to get the new tape in. Then when you tape the joint you aren't adding height to feather out.
First, you exposed the brown paper that is underneath the white paper. Mud and tape will not stick to brown paper, it now has to be sealed with something like Gardz, Shellac, or Bin. Then it can be taped and muddled.
All three of those joints are considered “Butt” joints. Each one will require a minimum of four coats, starting with,
1) apply “All Purpose” compound ( Green Lid) and paper tape ( not mesh) with a 6 inch knife, let dry.
2) apply Lightweight Compound ( Blue Lid) with 10” knife , double wide making each joint roughly 18 inches wide , it’s called “a double ten”. Let dry
3) repeat the process with a 12 inch knife, it’s called a double 12.
4) repeat the process with a Triple 12 , one down the center and one on each side.
Yes, each joint needs to be that wide.
Last edited by steve4102; 04/07/24.
Give a man a fish and he eats for a day. Give a man a welfare check, a forty ounce malt liquor, a crack pipe, an Obama phone, free health insurance. and some Air Jordan's and he votes Democrat for a lifetime.
Also each coat needs to be very thin and the edges feathered to a smooth edge.
Give a man a fish and he eats for a day. Give a man a welfare check, a forty ounce malt liquor, a crack pipe, an Obama phone, free health insurance. and some Air Jordan's and he votes Democrat for a lifetime.
i would buy a new sheet of drywall and cut it so the end of the dry wall where it is thinner to mud the two sheets together is against your proud side ..may be it will be easier to get it to match up with the mud then
The inside corner gets Green Lid and paper tape wiped dry and square on each side with a 6 inch knife, let dry.
Apply a coat of Blue Lid on one side and one side only, wipe and feather, let dry.
Apply final coat of Blue lid on the other side, wipe smooth and feather.
Give a man a fish and he eats for a day. Give a man a welfare check, a forty ounce malt liquor, a crack pipe, an Obama phone, free health insurance. and some Air Jordan's and he votes Democrat for a lifetime.
It appears you could use more screws. Not sure if the side that has been sanded through has wood the full length of the joint. I try to do full blocking on butt joints if possible at times I will sister a 2x along side a ceiling joist if need be. It’s not always easy to cut the old out perfectly centered on a ceiling joist. A whole lot easier to cut along side and sister a new 2x. Use paper tape and skip the mesh, float and feather wide. If I have to texture I will shoot the whole ceiling or wall it is cheap and looks better in my opinion. I also like a corner trowel for makeing that corner joint look right.
How difficult is texture to repaint? All I've ever seen was crumbly when you tried to paint it. In other words, texture trying to fall off when you try to roll it.
You will need to tape the joints and then do a wide taper. Use a thinner joint compound and a 12" blade to really push it out past the edges. Save yourself a lot of mess by using a damp sponge to clean up the high spots before final sanding with a 220 grit paper. For patches I like to use 1/4" luan plywood behind the drywall. I overlap under the existing and patch by 3-4". That gives yoou plenty of room for screws and provides a solid foundation thatt helps prevent high and low spots.
This guy knows a bit about drywall.
Parents who say they have good kids..Usually don't!
I got lots of good advice in my flooring thread, so I'm back needing more home repair advice. I'm working on repairing a section of damaged drywall on my ceiling and I'm quickly finding out that I have a lot to learn. I cut the damaged section out and put in a patch. I attached it to the joists, along with using a furring strip on the section past the joist. However, I'm finding that it's slightly higher than the existing sheet rock in one corner, but then in the middle it's slightly lower. The section that's higher isn't a big issue as I will mud over it and try to get it level. It's the part that's proud that I'm unsure how to tackle. I've read numerous sites saying to feather it out more, but I'm just not understanding how that's going to hide a bump in it. I started sanding trying to get it closer and you can see it's starting to go through the paper. At this point I stopped and decided I needed to do more research. What's the best way to tackle this from here? I honestly have no idea what I'm doing as I have very little drywall experience and what I've done in the past hasn't always looked great, but I'm trying to learn.
You do realize that you have to tape all joints, don't you ? Stop playing with it, tape it and float it out (feather).
Typical rookie taping mistakes : Not thinning out joint compound prior to starting work (mixing in water with drill motor and mixing blade) Applying too much mud (joint compound) and creating a nightmare sanding job. Not wiping tape flush and not getting mud under tape. Not letting mud completely dry before applying second coat.
A sanding pole is very helpful when sanding overhead.
Rent a hopper type spray rig to texture your patches to match existing. Practice on a scrap piece of board or cardboard to get your settings right.
I got lots of good advice in my flooring thread, so I'm back needing more home repair advice. I'm working on repairing a section of damaged drywall on my ceiling and I'm quickly finding out that I have a lot to learn. I cut the damaged section out and put in a patch. I attached it to the joists, along with using a furring strip on the section past the joist. However, I'm finding that it's slightly higher than the existing sheet rock in one corner, but then in the middle it's slightly lower. The section that's higher isn't a big issue as I will mud over it and try to get it level. It's the part that's proud that I'm unsure how to tackle. I've read numerous sites saying to feather it out more, but I'm just not understanding how that's going to hide a bump in it. I started sanding trying to get it closer and you can see it's starting to go through the paper. At this point I stopped and decided I needed to do more research. What's the best way to tackle this from here? I honestly have no idea what I'm doing as I have very little drywall experience and what I've done in the past hasn't always looked great, but I'm trying to learn.
You do realize that you have to tape all joints, don't you ? Stop playing with it, tape it and float it out (feather).
Typical rookie taping mistakes : Not thinning out joint compound prior to starting work (mixing in water with drill motor and mixing blade) Applying too much mud (joint compound) and creating a nightmare sanding job. Not wiping tape flush and not getting mud under tape. Not letting mud completely dry before applying second coat.
A sanding pole is very helpful when sanding overhead.
Rent a hopper type spray rig to texture your patches to match existing. Practice on a scrap piece of board or cardboard to get your settings right.
One thing I will add is it is better to use a drywall sealer prior to texture. Texture dries differently over mud vs drywall. If you don’t seal prior to texture, the joints will be easier to detect.
I got lots of good advice in my flooring thread, so I'm back needing more home repair advice. I'm working on repairing a section of damaged drywall on my ceiling and I'm quickly finding out that I have a lot to learn. I cut the damaged section out and put in a patch. I attached it to the joists, along with using a furring strip on the section past the joist. However, I'm finding that it's slightly higher than the existing sheet rock in one corner, but then in the middle it's slightly lower. The section that's higher isn't a big issue as I will mud over it and try to get it level. It's the part that's proud that I'm unsure how to tackle. I've read numerous sites saying to feather it out more, but I'm just not understanding how that's going to hide a bump in it. I started sanding trying to get it closer and you can see it's starting to go through the paper. At this point I stopped and decided I needed to do more research. What's the best way to tackle this from here? I honestly have no idea what I'm doing as I have very little drywall experience and what I've done in the past hasn't always looked great, but I'm trying to learn.
You do realize that you have to tape all joints, don't you ? Stop playing with it, tape it and float it out (feather).
Typical rookie taping mistakes : Not thinning out joint compound prior to starting work (mixing in water with drill motor and mixing blade) Applying too much mud (joint compound) and creating a nightmare sanding job. Not wiping tape flush and not getting mud under tape. Not letting mud completely dry before applying second coat.
A sanding pole is very helpful when sanding overhead.
Rent a hopper type spray rig to texture your patches to match existing. Practice on a scrap piece of board or cardboard to get your settings right.
One thing I will add is it is better to use a drywall sealer prior to texture. Texture dries differently over mud vs drywall. If you don’t seal prior to texture, the joints will be easier to detect.
I've seen PVA primer/sealer applied before paint, but I've never seen it used prior to texture.
Wrong, it's done all the time and never failed. And unless I'm doing a lot of finishing, I use a setting type compound, like Durabond or Set and only mix what I need, and Durabond doesn't shrink like "green top" mud.
Wrong, it's done all the time and never failed. And unless I'm doing a lot of finishing, I use a setting type compound, like Durabond or Set and only mix what I need, and Durabond doesn't shrink like "green top" mud.
For patches , I’ve even used a brown paper bag with good results. I dampen the bag before applying .
Wrong, it's done all the time and never failed. And unless I'm doing a lot of finishing, I use a setting type compound, like Durabond or Set and only mix what I need, and Durabond doesn't shrink like "green top" mud.
It will eventually fail.
Give a man a fish and he eats for a day. Give a man a welfare check, a forty ounce malt liquor, a crack pipe, an Obama phone, free health insurance. and some Air Jordan's and he votes Democrat for a lifetime.
To Direct Drive. I’ve been in construction over 45 years. Age 64 now. I learned this info from a few top notch drywall guys. Being skeptical , I never tried it, but when you spray with a hopper prior to knockdown, you will notice the texture on the mud joints will dry quicker. When you knockdown , the splatter will be different in the field . I did a 1800 sq ft addition a few years ago and explained it to the home owner that should seal first and he said no. I sealed after texture with 2 coats of top paint and you could see the joints slightly. Owners thought it was a great job, but I was not satisfied. I say try it once and see for yourself. If you doubt my ability , please pm me with a number and I will show you some of my work. With all respect, Alan Cranfill
First, you exposed the brown paper that is underneath the white paper. Mud and tape will not stick to brown paper, it now has to be sealed with something like Gardz, Shellac, or Bin. Then it can be taped and muddled.
All three of those joints are considered “Butt” joints. Each one will require a minimum of four coats, starting with,
1) apply “All Purpose” compound ( Green Lid) and paper tape ( not mesh) with a 6 inch knife, let dry.
2) apply Lightweight Compound ( Blue Lid) with 10” knife , double wide making each joint roughly 18 inches wide , it’s called “a double ten”. Let dry
3) repeat the process with a 12 inch knife, it’s called a double 12.
4) repeat the process with a Triple 12 , one down the center and one on each side.
Yes, each joint needs to be that wide.
^This, don’t try and fill it in one or two coats, several thin coats and build it up and widen it out.
"Life is tough, even tougher if your stupid" John Wayne
To Direct Drive. I’ve been in construction over 45 years. Age 64 now. I learned this info from a few top notch drywall guys. Being skeptical , I never tried it, but when you spray with a hopper prior to knockdown, you will notice the texture on the mud joints will dry quicker. When you knockdown , the splatter will be different in the field . I did a 1800 sq ft addition a few years ago and explained it to the home owner that should seal first and he said no. I sealed after texture with 2 coats of top paint and you could see the joints slightly. Owners thought it was a great job, but I was not satisfied. I say try it once and see for yourself. If you doubt my ability , please pm me with a number and I will show you some of my work. With all respect, Alan Cranfill
Always prime first.
God bless Texas----------------------- Old 300 I will remain what i am until the day I die- A HUNTER......Sitting Bull Its not how you pick the booger.. but where you put it !! Roger V Hunter
To Direct Drive. I’ve been in construction over 45 years. Age 64 now. I learned this info from a few top notch drywall guys. Being skeptical , I never tried it, but when you spray with a hopper prior to knockdown, you will notice the texture on the mud joints will dry quicker. When you knockdown , the splatter will be different in the field . I did a 1800 sq ft addition a few years ago and explained it to the home owner that should seal first and he said no. I sealed after texture with 2 coats of top paint and you could see the joints slightly. Owners thought it was a great job, but I was not satisfied. I say try it once and see for yourself. If you doubt my ability , please pm me with a number and I will show you some of my work. With all respect, Alan Cranfill
Priming first couldn't hurt. I have noticed different techniques and tools from one side of the country to the other. The best work I've seen is in the East. I have a friend who does "blueboard" in the Northeast and that's the best work that I've seen.
How difficult is texture to repaint? All I've ever seen was crumbly when you tried to paint it. In other words, texture trying to fall off when you try to roll it.
I only had a issue one time. Not sure if it was the old oil base paint that was sprayed over. Gas bubbles were coming though during painting. Didnt dry and I had used pva primer first. I dont use the spray can texture and dont have issues with crumbling texture. I always use a pva primer before painting I dont roll over the same spot over and over. No if your talking a pop corn ceiling, I have no experience with that other than removing a bunch.
LOL lots of people with advice that aint that good to basically useless. drywall people are a PITA for me to get in a timely manner to fix something, so I just learned to fix small things myself by asking a ton of questions and watching my best drywall repair guy. first off, you need to mesh tape the joints. YOU HAVE NO MESH TAPE OR ANY TAPE ON THEM. mesh tape has a mild stick on one side. pick up some(home depot) along with some easy sand 20 drywall mud. powdered mix is whats called "Hot Mud" in the business.
anyways apply the easy sand 20 with a 6" taping knife over the joints. Hot mud is pretty easy to shape and form, other muds you have to just slap them on and leave them alone and not be able to play with the mud. I would let it dry overnight if you can. The followup with a 10" knife and another coat. this should really make it look quite a bit better. let dry again. maybe a bit of sanding. Then a 12 knife with topping mud for a final coat.
Hot mud leaves a ruffer coat that doesn't take paint as well, that is why is better to use a topping or a plus 3 or all purpose for the final coat if you want it smooth.
Carve that high egde area all out. Mud it with 20 minute to fill flush, then tape all seams and mud. 20, 45, or 90 on all coats except the last skim coat.
Funny Every Drywall guy I have asked said mesh tape is chit. The only joints I have ever had failed were with the mesh. That is the joints cracked. Yes is sticky and great for home owners(NOT) because its easy. Problem for one is that not enough mud gets under and to the joint and if you pre mud then the stick doesn’t work. Go to a new job sight and tell me how many drywall guys use mesh. I doubt you will find one. They don’t make $$ on redo’s I use hot mud as it has its uses. But floating that large of area is not one of them in my opinion. It will start to set and if worked it will pull and leave divots. Regular mud can definitely be worked and I do thinner coats to reduce sanding.
Funny Every Drywall guy I have asked said mesh tape is chit. The only joints I have ever had failed were with the mesh. That is the joints cracked. Yes is sticky and great for home owners(NOT) because its easy. Problem for one is that not enough mud gets under and to the joint and if you pre mud then the stick doesn’t work. Go to a new job sight and tell me how many drywall guys use mesh. I doubt you will find one. They don’t make $$ on redo’s I use hot mud as it has its uses. But floating that large of area is not one of them in my opinion. It will start to set and if worked it will pull and leave divots. Regular mud can definitely be worked and I do thinner coats to reduce sanding.
' I've seen some pros use mesh tape but I've seen a lot more use paper tape. I would not recommend hot mud to a rookie. The good thing about drywall repair is that it's basically easy. The tricks of the trade make it go easier and help you turn out a better job.
The tedious thing would be to go through this thread and pick out just the good tips and tricks.
Thanks guys. Sorry for the slow response. I've been crazy busy the past few days and haven't done anything else with this other than throw some primer over it to hopefully brown paper part of it so hopefully the mud will stick to it.
That said, I know I need tape and I plan to use it. I have some, I just did a prefill with the Quick Set to fill in the gaps prior to applying the mud and tape. I'm hoping I'm not going to have problems getting the mud and tape to stick over the primer, but I've read mixed things online. The other side of the existing drywall is painted though, so it doesn't make much sense to me that it wouldn't stick over the paint.
I think my next course of action is going to be to get the next layer of mud and tape on, then attempt to feather it out. I got a 12" knife to work with.
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