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I agree, I love black cars, but their so hard to keep clean, and every little mark shows. I think the original color is the best bet.


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They tried to teach us to lead fenders in HS Body shop
( backabout the time your Road Runner was in the showroom )
What an art to get it right!
Just enough heat needed to flow the lead, and then get it to stick..
2 degs too much and it all falls out in a puddle
20 degs too much and the panel warps
5 degs too little and it doesn't stick...
what a PITA

Thank God for the good fillers of today

Don't forget Pliogrip seam sealers made by my Co
Ashland Specialty


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Originally Posted by northern_dave
I want to blast and rust proof the structural areas in the back before I seal those frame channels up with a new trunk skin.


ospho?


If you take the time it takes, it takes less time.
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Originally Posted by ironbender
Originally Posted by northern_dave
I want to blast and rust proof the structural areas in the back before I seal those frame channels up with a new trunk skin.


ospho?

POR-15 i would imagine


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Quote
Looks good, but living 3/10ths of a mile back on a dirt road it would never stay clean. Don't ask me how I know, after owning two Black Ford Rangers it'll never happen again.
Bought a black Harley and it was two and a half miles of dirt to the house. I always had the dirtiest bike there, everywhere I went. Black and living on dirt roads doesn't mix well.

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Had to google that stuff. It looks impressive. even the price is impressive.

[Linked Image]

Step 2 looks like an ospho-like step though?


If you take the time it takes, it takes less time.
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I've been using POR for years and it really works well. Not cheap though, as the last quart I bought was $40. It's impossible to get off your skin after it dries too. If still wet or curing, their own thinner/cleaner or MEK is about all that will touch the stuff.

Last edited by levrluvr; 04/12/11.
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I've been using POR 15 in fuel tanks for a long time ( the tank treatment kit )
And either that or Extend on outside steel


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Originally Posted by VAnimrod
A metal ballsack hanging from the rear bumper, and hydraulics.


That's always a classy touch.


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Originally Posted by tzone
Originally Posted by VAnimrod
A metal ballsack hanging from the rear bumper, and hydraulics.


That's always a classy touch.


If you really want to exude class he'll need to put "Northern Dave" in old English letters on the back glass

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No work on the bird last night. I'm trying to make a decision on the one piece full trunk pan I have. If I fit it into place right now I have to cut the forward 10" off of it. If I cut more of my driver's side inner wheel house out I can fit the whole full length pan in and weld it at the original factory overlap seam.

Either way is going to be some work, But I'm leaning towards cutting the inner wheel house open further so i can fit the whole pan in, I think in the longrun it will be better.



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Originally Posted by northern_dave
I cut the wheel well on the driver's side.

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

I also pulled the stainless trim off the back window.

[Linked Image]

Looks like I have a little work to do on the driver's side back window corner.

[Linked Image]



You should name it "THE CORRODE RUNNER" grin

Last edited by Whelenman; 04/13/11.

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Dang,
That big rock and tree gotta go!


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Originally Posted by northern_dave
No work on the bird last night. I'm trying to make a decision on the one piece full trunk pan I have. If I fit it into place right now I have to cut the forward 10" off of it. If I cut more of my driver's side inner wheel house out I can fit the whole full length pan in and weld it at the original factory overlap seam.

Either way is going to be some work, But I'm leaning towards cutting the inner wheel house open further so i can fit the whole pan in, I think in the longrun it will be better.

Put the whole pan in Dave.


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Agreed. Might as well get it right.



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I guess I'm leaning that direction too.



Something clever here.

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As long as you're not paying for the labor it seems like an easy decision.

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oh I pay, but it's in aches and pains rather than dollars.

grin



Something clever here.

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Originally Posted by northern_dave
oh I pay, but it's in aches and pains rather than dollars.

grin



Oh, He pays alright. He pays big time as you never get back what you put into it in time and energy you put into it.

Like a friend of mine says about the money, time and energy he has put in the cars he has restored he will never get back the cost of money and time he's put into them. The only redeeming factor is if the restoration is done right the value will only appreciate not depreciate with time.

grin


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Originally Posted by Rooster7
Originally Posted by tzone
Originally Posted by northern_dave
this also could work...

[Linked Image]


That is my vote.


x 2


x 3 grin Will I be able to drive it a few times this summer, if I help sand, mask, and hold your beer when your painting?


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