Aw, fark yeah! Reminiscent of a Tempest, Le Mans, Goat, Charger, Torino GT, 'Cuda, Challenger and maybe lines of some others all rolled into one. I love muscle from that era. Looking forward to watching you bring it back to life. I wish I had your talent. Auto or manual trans (showing my ignorance)?
Can't wait Dave and I'm not even a car guy. You've been AWOL around here lately. Don't think we haven't noticed. BTW - don't let your daughter - nevermind.
Yeah, but northern dave would never call it anything other than Statutory Grape.
I had a '70 Charger in Plum Crazy. Something had been done improperly with painting the hood and it all came off. The thing had a Plum Crazy body with a galvanized-gray hood for a long time. Dealer finally got Dodge to agree to pay for the paint if I paid for the application. Have always felt a bit unfriendly toward Dodge over the deal.
Bettin its a factory 383 pistol grip 4-speed car, and they look good in fresh plum crazy purple paint.
I owned an RT Challenger '70, or '71 - with a 340, and that fabulous wood, Hurst pistol-grip - plum crazy, with the white RT stripe. What a tire-roaster that car was!
Bettin its a factory 383 pistol grip 4-speed car, and they look good in fresh plum crazy purple paint.
I owned an RT Challenger '70, or '71 - with a 340, and that fabulous wood, Hurst pistol-grip - plum crazy, with the white RT stripe. What a tire-roaster that car was!
10-4, those GT radials are rubberized smoke bombs LOL, bet You miss that old war horse.
Ok, ok, I'm getting more questions than I expected.
It's a lynch road manufactured car, original color was T7 dark bronze metallic with a white vinyl top, tan and brown deluxe interior, Power steering, ... drum brakes on all 4, 383 high perf with factory air grabber hood, 4 speed trans, 3.23 suregrip rear... and that's about it.
oh, and this one is mine.. as in, for ME.
How cool is that?
It's getting new quarer skins, trunk floor, trunk floor extensions and a new drivers side rear wheel house.
I plan to put a new white vinyl top on it and go with a burnt orange metallic or copper metallic paint.
Dave when i did my 69 dart i split the wheel wells on the seam and welded in a 4 inch piece of sheet metal widening the wheel wells to fit a bigger tire. when you opened the trunk it still looked stock.
Somebody asked me about the wheels, yeah I guess new wheels aren't in the budget right now and these are in decent shape. Too bad they are 14's but the damn tires are brand new. Put on just before I bought the car.
I'd maybe flip the white letters in but that's maybe all I'd do for any wheel/tire changes for now.
Dave when i did my 69 dart i split the wheel wells on the seam and welded in a 4 inch piece of sheet metal widening the wheel wells to fit a bigger tire. when you opened the trunk it still looked stock.
That sounds good but I think the B-body wells are pretty big. my tire borders to the east and west are basically the adjoining pinchweld lip where the quarter meets the outer wheel house and the other border is the leaf spring.
I can go 10x15 with.... 5.5" backspacing I think? and... (I'm winging it here but this will be close) 295/50 R15 tire?
It fills it, gives like 3/4" to 1/2" of clearance on fender lip side and leaf spring side.
I don't even know if you you can buy a glass-belted tire anymore. Mid-seventies, I used to buy a set of cheapies (were they 14"?) at Fleet Farm, throw 'em on for a weekend - and they'd be gone by the end of it.
Not claiming it was wise - but it sure was fun.
Oh, 'nother little known item, hydraulic lifters "float" at 'bout seven-thousand rpms (If I recall correctly). The engine starts sputterin', and loses power, 'til the lifters pump-up again at a more sane rpm. >grin<
you can also gain some clearance with the offset spring hangers. don't forget the super stock springs and pinion snubber.i would swap in torsion bars from a slant six car up front to help with weight transfer.
I had a 68 dodge charger with a 440, 375 horse, metallic blue, white roof, white interior 4 speed, 10 inch rear tires, Bitch would run. sure was fun. wish I still had her.
I'll try and update regularly. I want to get the car into town maybe saturday morning early while my muddy driveway is still frozen. Take it to the carwash and spray under the car really well and get it back home and into the garage while the spring mess is still frozen.
Then I'll start taking it apart and stripping the paint off, ripping the old vinyl top off, removing the glass etc.
kind of the same deadline as the mustang we did last spring. I started that one april 4th I think.
STX, yeah I need a good snubber and I'm considering the caltracbars. I'll have to learn about the springs and get a possitive ID on what I have now.
The car has a joe dirt set of traction bars on it now, old school square tube and snubber slappers.
I had a 68 dodge charger with a 440, 375 horse, metallic blue, white roof, white interior 4 speed, 10 inch rear tires, Bitch would run. sure was fun. wish I still had her.
Man I love a white interior, sounds like an awesome car.
how does it help? I can't make it work in my head lol!!
of course in regards to transfer my brain might have stalled out at nose high gasser style weight transfer "technology" You mean there are better ways?
Dave, when You wanna plant that mother to the street just run a set of Cal-tracs combined w/ the MT 12" dot street legal tire, I pick on rice grinder's w/ bumble bee mufflers when they start it. I think Ive seen a few of those youngsters on the phone to daddy beggin' for a bigger chip when they finally roll up to the next light LOL. Its a blast to give em' a whoopin' w/ 20' of 40 yr. old maw mopar sheet iron.
Yes, I lucked into a cool "one of 488" car, but I had to sell 2 Hemi's to get it. A 57 Imperial 392 and a 1960 Sanger V drive w/'57-392 built by Mondello.....
Well guys, I just got off the phone with my paint/primer/autobody supply guy.
Spent $1034.90
Aint mama gonna be proud?
But that's everything I need, all my sandpaper, body fillers, glazing fillers, awesome polyester hi build surfacing primer, epoxy prime, urethane primer/sealer, my basecoat, my clear coat, misc mixing supplies like cups, sticks, spreaders etc.
It's everything I need for a show quality paint job, nice stuff.
So, that being considered, a thousand aint bad for what i have coming.
hell I even have a new spray gun tip coming for shooting that heavy primer.
Color is locked in, going with "sunburnt copper pearl metallic"
gotta be good right? hell it's sunburnt, it's copper, it's pearl an metallic lol!!
Now I have to place a body panel order and then my play monies will be about used up
there's a company that you can buy the steel cop wheels from widened or send them yours to widen. my buddy has some 15x10 he got from them he ran on the back of his 67 coronet rt
there's a company that you can buy the steel cop wheels from widened or send them yours to widen. my buddy has some 15x10 he got from them he ran on the back of his 67 coronet rt
Yes stx, the co. is called Wheel Vintiques, I run the black steel wheels and chrome lug nuts on my old RR.
Northern Dave, when You crack Your project open if You see You need any parts, I got lots of front and rear inner window components, also have a like new set of cragar's w/like new radial tire's, as well as factory front and rear glass for the 69 RR.
if you ever come across a 64 polara in rebuildable condition for a fare price send me a PM. would prefer a 2dr post but a hard top would work as well. planning on building a 543 stroker to stuff in one. goal being a 10 second street car sleeper.
haven't been back to Mopar yet, some of the new challengers look sweet
Dave do you enjoy the project as much as the finished product?
knew of a guy that was always restoring a classic and always driving one he'd restored with a for sale sign in the window.
financed his hobby/addiction pretty well. Said dang near everyone he did, he'd find some doctor or lawyer or biz man that had either had that particular model in his youth or desired one back then.
normally turned down many offers on each one, but he always ended up gettin his asking price from someone according to him.
you can see the lust your car threads inspire here
10-Fo stx, my uncle's got a black-cherry 64 fury, he may have invented the term "sleeper" He's been laying waste to young blvd. bruiser's for 25yrs w/ that beast.
10-Fo stx, my uncle's got a black-cherry 64 fury, he may have invented the term "sleeper" He's been laying waste to young blvd. bruiser's for 25yrs w/ that beast.
Gunner
My 64 Belvedre came from Detroit with the 426 wedge and a four speed. Hurst shifter in front of the bench seat. Sox and Martin springs all the way around. Drop the clutch and whole car lifted up about 6-8 " and flew. The only mods made were fenderwell headers and deep oil pan. And slicks. It embarrased many Mustangs and Camaros back then.
Sounds like an inexpensive way to paint, cool deal. I know we spent about that much for the Viper red on my son's 56 ferd F-100.
You may need to change the rear gears to 3.55 or deeper, I am surprised a 383 4 speed came with 3.23's. My 74 Challenger 360 came with a 3.55 SG..... got a spare clutch 3.55's....
The paint on mine is Black, with Cherry pearl and metalflake, makes a very interesting "old school" Chameleon effect.
there's a company that you can buy the steel cop wheels from widened or send them yours to widen. my buddy has some 15x10 he got from them he ran on the back of his 67 coronet rt
Yes stx, the co. is called Wheel Vintiques, I run the black steel wheels and chrome lug nuts on my old RR.
Northern Dave, when You crack Your project open if You see You need any parts, I got lots of front and rear inner window components, also have a like new set of cragar's w/like new radial tire's, as well as factory front and rear glass for the 69 RR.
Gunner
Thanks man.
Well I just placed my body panel order as well.
left and right quarter panel skins, full trunk floor, trunk floor to quarter extensions and the drivers side wheel house.
oh, a new back bumper too.
There aint much left, windshield gasket, maybe some trim clips, little bit of weatherstripping, a windshield washer bottle/pump... Yeah there just aint a whole bunch left after what I ordered today...
I pretty much ate up my build budget, maybe 2-300 left. should cover my odds & ends.
But that's everything I need, all my sandpaper, body fillers, glazing fillers, awesome polyester hi build surfacing primer, epoxy prime, urethane primer/sealer, my basecoat, my clear coat, misc mixing supplies like cups, sticks, spreaders etc.
But that's everything I need, all my sandpaper, body fillers, glazing fillers, awesome polyester hi build surfacing primer, epoxy prime, urethane primer/sealer, my basecoat, my clear coat, misc mixing supplies like cups, sticks, spreaders etc.
But that's everything I need, all my sandpaper, body fillers, glazing fillers, awesome polyester hi build surfacing primer, epoxy prime, urethane primer/sealer, my basecoat, my clear coat, misc mixing supplies like cups, sticks, spreaders etc.
But that's everything I need, all my sandpaper, body fillers, glazing fillers, awesome polyester hi build surfacing primer, epoxy prime, urethane primer/sealer, my basecoat, my clear coat, misc mixing supplies like cups, sticks, spreaders etc.
Can I borrow some sand paper?
What? toilet paper not good enough?
Viking fans are tougher than most. They gotta be to take the heat for being Viking fans.
I stuck a 383 from a wrecked Roadrunner in a 63 Polara way back when. The Polara had a single track differential and the old push button shifting apparatus on the auto transmission.
It would do a very impressive one wheel burnout if you wound it up to about five grand and punched the "D" button.
I was a regular customer at the local used tire store.
I stuck a 383 from a wrecked Roadrunner in a 63 Polara way back when. The Polara had a single track differential and the old push button shifting apparatus on the auto transmission.
It would do a very impressive one wheel burnout if you wound it up to about five grand and punched the "D" button.
I was a regular customer at the local used tire store.
I have a truck in the way inside the shop right now, I need to shim a diff carrier for the front axle housing on an old F250 and roll that thing outside first. Then I'll have room to work on the bird.
But parked in a rickety old garage Is a brand new shiny red super stocked Dodge ( with a white vinyl top) And everybody's sayin' that there's nobody meaner Than the little old lady from Pasadena She drives real fast and she drives real hard She's the terror of Colorado Boulevard
Just checking! I with you on the vinyl top, and Tom with the cop wheels. Bottom line, that's going to a really nice car when it's done, and I'm a Ford guy.
Do you do it yourself? I've never know anyone that put one back on. Probably because the roof was junk under it.
That seems like something I wouldn't want to do....take a lot more patience than I have.
Yeah I'll do it myself.
You just gotta go slow, an extra set of hands don't hurt any. You start in the middle & work your way out to the sides.
It would be easier to leave it off & weld up the trim strip holes but... I think I want it on there.
Remember the old spray on faux vinyl top that Westrrn Auto and J.C Whittney used to sell? Looked a something like the truck bed coatings in use now days.
That color you have picked out has always been one of my favorites. I remember drooling over a new 1966 Mustang fastback that was about that same color.
Just checking! I with you on the vinyl top, and Tom with the cop wheels. Bottom line, that's going to a really nice car when it's done, and I'm a Ford guy.
When I picked up the boat today the dude had a 3 car garage. One stall was the boat, one stall was a bright yellow Dodge Viper and that last stall was a 1969 Camero z/28 with the factory 302 on a engine stand. In it's place was a mean, ornrey, fire breathing 437 Chevy SB. It was on bad MoFo. He fired it up but it was too wet to take it for a spin.
I'm likin' the whole thing. I'll have to e-mail my brother the link to this thread. He had a '69 with the 383 that he balanced and blue-printed, slap-stick Torqueflite, dual exhaust with turbo mufflers. Had issues with the Carter carb, found a Holey and we rebuilt it. Shifting manually, it'd catch rubber on the 1-2 upshift. If it were mine, I'd throw Bilstein shocks on it, maybe a pinion snubber for those jackrabbit starts, and a rear sway bar to tighten up the handling. Front disc brakes would help a lot. Set up for drag racing with the 6-cyl bars and 80/20s on the front works great at the drag strip but sucks for safe street rapid transit
Yep, I see it now..........I'm working on a small laptop and couldn't see the valve cover very well.......I expected the plug wires to come over the top of the covers.
When I picked up the boat today the dude had a 3 car garage. One stall was the boat, one stall was a bright yellow Dodge Viper and that last stall was a 1969 Camero T/A with the factory 302 on a engine stand. In it's place was a mean, ornrey, fire breathing 437 Chevy SB. It was on bad MoFo. He fired it up but it was too wet to take it for a spin.
That was on chevy I could get to like.
T/A was a Firebird. I think you may mean Z/28. That would had been a 302.
When I picked up the boat today the dude had a 3 car garage. One stall was the boat, one stall was a bright yellow Dodge Viper and that last stall was a 1969 Camero T/A with the factory 302 on a engine stand. In it's place was a mean, ornrey, fire breathing 437 Chevy SB. It was on bad MoFo. He fired it up but it was too wet to take it for a spin.
That was on chevy I could get to like.
T/A was a Firebird. I think you may mean Z/28. That would had been a 302.
Never seen a 437 SB.. Maybe a 427 BB?
I meant z/28, but it was 437 SB. There was nuttin' stock on that car. Some cat out of Forest Lake, MN built the motor.
When I picked up the boat today the dude had a 3 car garage. One stall was the boat, one stall was a bright yellow Dodge Viper and that last stall was a 1969 Camero T/A with the factory 302 on a engine stand. In it's place was a mean, ornrey, fire breathing 437 Chevy SB. It was on bad MoFo. He fired it up but it was too wet to take it for a spin.
That was on chevy I could get to like.
T/A was a Firebird. I think you may mean Z/28. That would had been a 302.
Never seen a 437 SB.. Maybe a 427 BB?
I meant z/28, but it was 437 SB. There was nuttin' stock on that car. Some cat out of Forest Lake, MN built the motor.
It had 17,000 on the odo. Calims it's actual.
Last I looked, aftermarket blocks had enough room to push the SB platform to 454ci. It may be more by now. All the old powerplants are getting bigger.
he sold his to his uncle for collage money on the condition he could buy it back. well the uncle told him he sold it. about 8 yrs ago we were digging around in his garage and happened to find the build sheet for it. went to the Shelby owners web site to find the the owner of the car now, figured they'd like to have the build sheet. low and behold his damn uncle still owns it, the lying bastard.
UPS was here, I recieved about 9 cardboard boxes of sandpaper, body filler, 3 different kinds of primer, basecoat, clear coat a new spray gun tip for the super heavy primer I'm going to shoot... and misc body shop supplies.
Hot damn, time for some old paint and old bondo excavating.
Teal - if you are interested, the bronze Roadrunner is up for sale - it has the full pro street treatment, with the original block bored and stroked - tubbed with widened original rims, drag hydro, fuel cell, roll bars et cetera. PM me if you are interested. It isn't mine, but it is available locally. Will tell you this - she HOOKS
Teal - if you are interested, the bronze Roadrunner is up for sale - it has the full pro street treatment, with the original block bored and stroked - tubbed with widened original rims, drag hydro, fuel cell, roll bars et cetera. PM me if you are interested. It isn't mine, but it is available locally. Will tell you this - she HOOKS
Take a third party, out of town, starter cheque? Dang if I didn't just lose my ID too!
Naw - the only way I ever afford to own something like that is to build it a piece at a time and I've enough crap going on.
Scuba with the girlfriend this summer, beer making eventually etc. That's on top of the other things...
Yeah well - my old man had a 32 Ford 5 window, all steel when I was a runt. He sold it to move the tribe west to Colorado.
The idjit that bought it painted over the black and flame job paint (like all good 32's had) and did it white with blue fancy pin striping. "Daddy's Toy" was written on the rumple seat lid. Threw away the engine covers too.
That's about the only car I'd mortgage the farm to get. If I could find it and return it like the way it was - I'd be all over it.
The only thing even mildly troubling is that rear rocker area that the quarter lays over when installed.
I have to get the passenger side peeled off and hopefully it is more intact so I can use it as a patern for making a repair section for the driver's side.
Even though it's "inside" and hidden behind the exterior of the body it still has to be right.
I might have mentioned this before - my Dad used to "fix" rust holes by buying bondo and paint and making sure the clerk put them in a paper bag. Still in the parking lot, Dad would mix the bondo and smear it on the hole using the paper bag. Rattle-rattle, spray-spray, and we're good to go.
Kinda similar, Dad was selling a car that had a weird vibration in the engine. It turns out one of the four fan blades had broken off and the imbalance was the problem. Dad broke off the opposite blade and it ran like a top.
That's a classic muscle car you've snagged. That fresh air setup alone is worth the price of admission. A 383 loves to rev and breath, so do the things that will let it and it will think it's a 440. What carb is on it presently, the original AVS? I see that it still has those beautiful Magnum exhaust manifolds. Headers may be slightly more efficient, but they create a ton of underhood heat. It's gonna look great in the copper with white vinyl top.
Since you brought up Racing Junk. I knew the owner of this car very well. Unfortunately, he passed away a few months ago. The car is gorgeous and very fast. It is a legal Stock Eliminator car, but it is relegated to the upper classes due to it being a hemi (clone) and not as competitive.
Know a guy local here that's got a 69 with the 440 and a 6 pack. Green. IIRC it has just over 16,000 orig miles on it. I've seen the car, been in the car etc. Don't know if that's avail in '69 but I saw it as described.
Knowing Mike it is - he's a mopar nut. 3 vipers form significant year of introductions at one time (first year with zero miles, one from 2 years later as a driver, GTS with zero miles - delivered to the house off the truck etc), all kinds of various Dodge/Plymouth cars from the 60's and 70's and I know he had but sold 1 original Shelby AC with the 427 side oiler in it. Not a repro but actual.
He's got $$ and spends it at times.
Good friend of mine's dad used to have a 69 Yenko he woulda sold me for 45,000. I passed (I was 18) and found out later that one was 1 of 5 so built and documented as such. Guessing it's worth more than 45.
I've just never been lined up properly to own something similar.
Was thinking of buying a new Charger with the 5.7 Hemi tho. Not the same.
+1 I can build and have built many engines, but I've always been worthless with body stuff (unless it's fiberglass). I can't weld to save my asss. I have a '69 GTO convertible in the corner of my shop that needs restoration because of that very reason. I picked it up cheap, but it has been sitting there now for over 10 years. I've not quite had the $$ to pay someone else to do it.
Dave- is this something you went to school for, or was it acquired through OJT?
I didn't go to school for it any more than one of our rifle/reloading loonies went to school for ballistics science pertaining to reloading, accurizing etc.
Like most anything in my life that I've wanted and gone after, I've taught myself how to do it. Same with building my own house, our hunting cabin, mechanics in general, body and paint work...
Well I do have an edge in the paint area as it has been my bread winning day job in a high volume OEM setting for 17 years or so now.
But with the car stuff, I grew up in the right time surrounded by cool cars that were just daily drivers back then. I come from a family of mechanics, both my grandpa and my uncle made a living turning wrenches and I like to think I picked up a few tricks from them. The autobody and paint stuff is something I started messing with when I was a teenager.
I shed a few more pounds off the roadrunner last night.
Passenger side skin is off.
I did my best to save the mural to hang up on the shop wall and maybe bring along to some of the small town cruise in type shows we like to go to. maybe display the cut and trimmed mural portion with a project book with pictures, slide some trim lock over the cut edges or something.
Rocker is much better on this side, now I have a reference for making patches for the driver�s side.
During this particular excavation effort I managed to unearth some new prizes for my creative bodywork archives.
For me personally this is a brand new one, I've never seen this application before. So I was pretty excited.
This to me looks like wire mesh from an automotive air filter, possibly fram?
That's the crown jewel right there, pretty proud of that find.
Then there is the old marine fiberglass resin with no backer which somehow spanned a void in a panel which was overlaid with body filler and ultimately this groovy paint job.
Alright, on to more important stuff.
The outer wheel house is questionable, I'm seriously considering ordering an outer from Jeff to use as a repair for the area where it connects to the wheel opening lip on the quarter.
i use to sell mopar stuff on ebay to make parts money. you can do pretty good depending on what your selling. 71 duster sharktooth grills would bring 400-500 dollars. sold a radiator that the part# was correct for a 70 challenger 440 6 pack or hemi car for 700 and it needed a new core. my buddy and i would pick old mopars that were to far gone to restore but still had useable parts.
Dave- when you re-sking those 1/4s please take a ton of pics. I'm very interested in seeing how that's done. I've never seen it done.
IIRC, its a matter of tack welding you piece in place, then welding it all the way around, grinding it smooth, and finishing it up with some body filler to make it perfect again... of course, i may be wrong.
Dave- when you re-sking those 1/4s please take a ton of pics. I'm very interested in seeing how that's done. I've never seen it done.
IIRC, its a matter of tack welding you piece in place, then welding it all the way around, grinding it smooth, and finishing it up with some body filler to make it perfect again... of course, i may be wrong.
I'm assuming that but Dave's cuts aren't exactly lazer straight and not at a body line which to my convoluted way of thinking would make things easier? I'm wondering how he marries what he bought to what he has. I'm assuming that he has more trimming of the old body to do?
little more too it than that. if you don't know what your doing you'll warp the metal. when i did my dart i drilled out all the spot welds. its nice to have a set of clicos ( little clips that hold the Panel in place)then you can spot weld it . moving from one area to another to keep from getting the metal to hot.
I'm assuming that he has more trimming of the old body to do?
Yes, very much so.
The drastic change in the car with the quarter skins peeled, trunk floor etc are plenty of work but there is just as much or more work to me done in finishing the removal. I now have many spot welds to drill and split at the door jam area for the quarters as well as the tail light end of the quarters. Then I need to drill and seperate the trunk floor tin from the inner wheel houses.
Last night I worked on removing the very tail section of the trunk floor which involved locating and drilling spotwelds for the trunk latch assembly, a couple of tailpan braces and a bunch of spot welds both on the tail pan to trunk floor and trunk floor to rear crossmember.
When I get closer to hanging the quarters I'll be deciding on a weld seam location and then I'll make the final finishing cut on the upper portion of the quarter that remains on the car as well as on the new quarter skin itself.
STX, although it may be sort of unconventional I'm seriously considering placing my cut and weld seam above the top body line where the quarter panel starts to reach towards the trunk.
Well it was one of those nights where you work plenty but if nobody knew any better they would have a hard time figuring out what you got done lol!
I cleaned the top surfaces of my frame rails some and did some more trimming on the front edge of my trunk floor. I'm thinking about splicing the trunk floor here mostly because I have a one piece trunk floor and i will be limited as to how much of it I will be able to fit into the trunk without having the tail pan completely gone or a wheel house completely gone.
I decided to use the full length of the new trunk floor in back where it lays over the rear crossmember and connects to the tail pan.
I had to shut it down early last night to go to a birthday party. i'll work on drilling my inner wheel house to trunk floor welds tonight and i'll start mapping out a plan for the wheel house repairs, drill and seperate the quarter to door jamb area as well as the quarter to tail light pan area.
Then it will be time to hail the little chunks and scraps out and sweep up under the car again.
No crystal ball- just a fan of the stuff (other than its price). I think it's the sole reason I have one of the only remaining old body style Suburbans (an '88) left in the area. It's kept that old F150 of mine in decent shape as well. Great stuff.
who knows- maybe this old dog will learn enough from what you're doing to tackle my GTO. I've already learned a lot from what you've posted on the Mustang and this. Thanks for taking the time to do so. Jim
If it wernt so full of dead frozen bobcats, various critters and an elk hide... there might be room for a beer or two.
Originally Posted by levrluvr
who knows- maybe this old dog will learn enough from what you're doing to tackle my GTO. I've already learned a lot from what you've posted on the Mustang and this. Thanks for taking the time to do so. Jim
Well maybe I better slow down a bit and post some detail on spot weld drilling, panel splitting etc.
Hang on to your dewalt angle grinders, don't let them get hold of your shirt or you will be wrapped up in the grinding stone. This results in the ultimate titty twister, it's not nice.
Hang on to your dewalt angle grinders, don't let them get hold of your shirt or you will be wrapped up in the grinding stone. This results in the ultimate titty twister, it's not nice.
That sounds uncomfortable. As a kid, I once used a belt sander on a really bad mosquito bite on my calf. Felt so good. For a few seconds. The patch of skin I unintentionally removed was a slight inconvenience, however. A bad itch sucks. A bad itch that stings and bleeds when you scratch it is worse. Not one of my more brilliant plans.
It helps if you use something like this air hammer with a chissle bit to seperate the panels.
Here I'm melting the lead out of the factory seam at the lower to quarter to rocker area.
Tail light pans got the same drill and split treatment where the quarters wrap around
same with inner wheel house to trunk floor...
A test fit for inspiration...
Note the extreme titty twister evidence...
Cutting wheel on the grinder way over penetrated, 2 shirts including my OD green chickenbuck shirt and the stone did it's final burn out on my... pectoral area.
Cutting wheel on the grinder way over penetrated, 2 shirts including my OD green chickenbuck shirt and the stone did it's final burn out on my... pectoral area.
lol!
That car would look bad ass is black....well, it's bad ass in burnt orange too.
You don't look very impressed in that picture. Looks like a giant beaver bit off your nipple.
thanks for showing the spot-weld procedure Dave! Is every spot-weld seam leaded, regardless of manufacturer (would my 69 GTO require similar procedure)?
Bench grinders, hand-held, die-grinders- there are those who have been bitten, and those will... It's a good thing the angry feller didn't take your nipple. Didn't Foxworthy tell of such a story once?
If it didn't take it completely off and leaves a little round scar, does that mean you are ready for a Friends remake since you could be a stunt double for Ross?
I don't know who makes it but I saw a kick butt graphinte color in a magazine once (wanna say PPG). Always said I'd love to do a graphinte car with black accents.
Was looking at a 69.5 Roadrunner today with a 440 and 6 pack and factory fiberglass lift off hood. Purple. Blahhh. Like your choice much better.
thanks for showing the spot-weld procedure Dave! Is every spot-weld seam leaded, regardless of manufacturer (would my 69 GTO require similar procedure)?
The lead thing used to be reserved for open panel seams.
More of a common knowledge "lead seam" is the sail panel where the top of the quarter meets the roof cap. It's a lead solder seam, the sail panel is the best known but they used lead where the rockers meet the quarter and also where the A-pillars reached down to the cowl on many cars from that erra.
I melt it out if I can (if it needs to come apart) instead of grinding, lead dust in your lungs is probably bad.
69 GTO would be put together much the same, but no you wouldn't have to cook the lead out unless you had to do a repair to that area.
When I put these areas back together I typically don't lead solder them back together, they get welded and then I use a filler called "metal to metal" which is basically aluminum dust with resins & hardners, it mixes up with a liquid hardner and I'ts kind of a modern replacement for lead.
Seriously though, that is a sweet looking car! You could do so much worse for paint and wheels. I look forward to watching the restoration of your Roadrunner.
Can't say much... one of my girlfriend's in college had this tiny little Toyota thing with a hint of a backseat (front seats for any decent sized person were jammed into it, just to keep the knees out of the dashboard).
No way in Hell you could use the back seat. And, it was a hatchback, thing, so no way to gain any space by popping the back and laying the seat down either.
Can't say much... one of my girlfriend's in college had this tiny little Toyota thing with a hint of a backseat (front seats for any decent sized person were jammed into it, just to keep the knees out of the dashboard).
No way in Hell you could use the back seat. And, it was a hatchback, thing, so no way to gain any space by popping the back and laying the seat down either.
I love that color too- enough that I had three early '70's GM products in it, and all three had white vinyl tops. I think the GM color was a shade darker than on that RR pic. I'm not sure where to even look for the pictures of those cars- if I find them I'll scan. 1972 Pontiac Lemans Sport 455cid 1972 Monte Carlo 454cid 1972 Grand Prix SJ 455cid
She'll be on the mend as soo as I get a dry and sunny day to roll her outside for some sandblasting. I want to blast and rust proof the structural areas in the back before I seal those frame channels up with a new trunk skin.
Looks good, but living 3/10ths of a mile back on a dirt road it would never stay clean. Don't ask me how I know, after owning two Black Ford Rangers it'll never happen again.
They tried to teach us to lead fenders in HS Body shop ( backabout the time your Road Runner was in the showroom ) What an art to get it right! Just enough heat needed to flow the lead, and then get it to stick.. 2 degs too much and it all falls out in a puddle 20 degs too much and the panel warps 5 degs too little and it doesn't stick... what a PITA
Thank God for the good fillers of today
Don't forget Pliogrip seam sealers made by my Co Ashland Specialty
Looks good, but living 3/10ths of a mile back on a dirt road it would never stay clean. Don't ask me how I know, after owning two Black Ford Rangers it'll never happen again.
Bought a black Harley and it was two and a half miles of dirt to the house. I always had the dirtiest bike there, everywhere I went. Black and living on dirt roads doesn't mix well.
I've been using POR for years and it really works well. Not cheap though, as the last quart I bought was $40. It's impossible to get off your skin after it dries too. If still wet or curing, their own thinner/cleaner or MEK is about all that will touch the stuff.
No work on the bird last night. I'm trying to make a decision on the one piece full trunk pan I have. If I fit it into place right now I have to cut the forward 10" off of it. If I cut more of my driver's side inner wheel house out I can fit the whole full length pan in and weld it at the original factory overlap seam.
Either way is going to be some work, But I'm leaning towards cutting the inner wheel house open further so i can fit the whole pan in, I think in the longrun it will be better.
No work on the bird last night. I'm trying to make a decision on the one piece full trunk pan I have. If I fit it into place right now I have to cut the forward 10" off of it. If I cut more of my driver's side inner wheel house out I can fit the whole full length pan in and weld it at the original factory overlap seam.
Either way is going to be some work, But I'm leaning towards cutting the inner wheel house open further so i can fit the whole pan in, I think in the longrun it will be better.
oh I pay, but it's in aches and pains rather than dollars.
Oh, He pays alright. He pays big time as you never get back what you put into it in time and energy you put into it.
Like a friend of mine says about the money, time and energy he has put in the cars he has restored he will never get back the cost of money and time he's put into them. The only redeeming factor is if the restoration is done right the value will only appreciate not depreciate with time.
x 3 Will I be able to drive it a few times this summer, if I help sand, mask, and hold your beer when your painting?
Oh boy, Dave!
SWMBO has spoken... only a fool would not consider that VERY carefully!
And (not that what I think matters!), I like all of the paint schemes posted! The black looks best in the show room, but that coppery colour might be best in the real world.
The only reason I have a black vehicle (two) is because I don't live on (or near) a gravel road or have a gravel driveway. I would not recommend it to anyone if they do. It will be dirty right after you wash it. Tough shade if you want to keep it looking nice. The copper is great for hiding dust and dirt.
I got a little blasting done tonight, not the best because my blasting nozzle was missing and I couldn't find one in town at any of the stores. So I had to make a temporary one out of a 1/8" pipe cap with some gringing and a small hole drilled in the end.
It worked good enough to get things cleaned well enough for a coat of POR15, tomorrow.
I use pickle or olive jars, splitting the quart up into smaller quantities. You can buy empty new paint cans from McMaster-Carr as well, half-pint on up in size. I've used those for splitting up adhesives like 3M 1300L into smaller quantities to keep it from drying out.
MEK (Methyl Ethyl Ketone) is your friend- it will take POR off if you get to it before it's completely dry. Hardware or lumber yard should have it in the paint department; I always keep a quart or two around. POR's thinner/cleaner will burn your skin- more for getting it off objects, not skin.
I gots me some back issues this morning.... gimpy.
But I'm going to try to get out and do some welding today on the car.
Originally Posted by Tom264
Dave has had some issues lately hasnt he.?
Yes, yes dave has.
remember the guy in this photo? the guy with the cactus?
You might recall that I proclaimed this man swinging the cactus is the father of a teenage daughter. I know it for certain.
You see.... they test us...
These daughters.
Nice parking job...
You guys like that don't ya? Little mustang laying on it's belly right on my sidewalk... Covered with mud, while there is a perfectly good 4x4 pickup available to drive, sitting gassed up with the keys in it, sitting... Some might say the old pickup is more suitable for muddy driving conditions.... Who knows for sure right?
You can't just hook a tow rope up to something like that you know, you'll wreck stuff for sure.
So you do something like this to free it.
That's the kind of stuff I do when I'm not working on my road runner.
Yes Dave has had some issues lately for sure.
I'm going to the garage now to make welding sparks, listen to classic rock, drink heavy beer and try not to injure myself with power tools.
Dave- can you mig directly to a surface coated with POR? I noticed you removed the coating from your new trunk pan, but am I guessing right that you didn't from the frame it's welded to?
If you look back at my photos you'll see green masking tape on the weld surfaces while I was doing the POR15. I peeled the tape exposing clean metal and then I sprayed those areas with a special zinc primer that you can weld through.
I gots me some back issues this morning.... gimpy.
But I'm going to try to get out and do some welding today on the car.
Originally Posted by Tom264
Dave has had some issues lately hasnt he.?
Yes, yes dave has.
remember the guy in this photo? the guy with the cactus?
You might recall that I proclaimed this man swinging the cactus is the father of a teenage daughter. I know it for certain.
You see.... they test us...
These daughters.
Nice parking job...
You guys like that don't ya? Little mustang laying on it's belly right on my sidewalk... Covered with mud, while there is a perfectly good 4x4 pickup available to drive, sitting gassed up with the keys in it, sitting... Some might say the old pickup is more suitable for muddy driving conditions.... Who knows for sure right?
You can't just hook a tow rope up to something like that you know, you'll wreck stuff for sure.
So you do something like this to free it.
That's the kind of stuff I do when I'm not working on my road runner.
Yes Dave has had some issues lately for sure.
I'm going to the garage now to make welding sparks, listen to classic rock, drink heavy beer and try not to injure myself with power tools.
Why didn't she just park along side the sidewalk? I don't know Weezy.
If you look back at my photos you'll see green masking tape on the weld surfaces while I was doing the POR15. I peeled the tape exposing clean metal and then I sprayed those areas with a special zinc primer that you can weld through.
thanks! Being a total schlock at welding, I was wondering how you did that. I think you know this already- we all greatly appreciate you taking the time to document your project and how this type of work is done. I might just have to dig that old GTO out of the corner of the building and get the project rolling. See what you have done? Jim
remember the guy in this photo? the guy with the cactus?
I'm pretty sure the guy on the business end of that swinging cactus has a stinging head like I did today. Hot, sparking, molten, rusted, steel landed on my freeeeeekin head while I was TRYING to get the bolts out of the fenders today. dammit that shhhh, stuff hurts.
I'm pretty sure the only way to get that Mustang up on the side walk like that is to come in pretty hot and dukes of hazzard slide that baby up on to there....just sayin'.
Well, my back is still messed up, I'm walking around like Fred Sanford, not good.
But I managed to get a few things done today.
Started with the inner wheel house for LH side.
The new wheel house didn't match the shape of the original for splicing in a half like I planned.
So I cut it, tacked the top, pushed up hard so it lined up on top, then tacked the bottom. The problen is then the top split out, so I tacked a cheap vise grip in there spanning the gap, squeezed it together and tacked it.
Everything all welded up, trunk floor welds ground, starting to shape up.
Next I moved on to my rusty tail pan. I decided to save it.
I don't post much, but I lurk daily. I've been especially interested in your restoration threads and really look forward to the updates. Keep up the nice work! Btw, nice trick with the vise grips!! I'll remember that! Butch
I don't post much, but I lurk daily. I've been especially interested in your restoration threads and really look forward to the updates. Keep up the nice work! Btw, nice trick with the vise grips!! I'll remember that! Butch
Thanks Butch.
As for the vise grip, it was a win-win. It drew that weld gap together and I hated that made in china knock off vice grip anyways.
In 1964 I was at the drags with my 56 Chevy that had a little 283' motor and Corvette quads. I was challenged to a grudge race after the races were over by a guy that had a 56 Ford. He had installed a 406" big block with the 3-2 barrel set up (406 hp I think) and a 4 speed . I thought he would blow me off the track so I told him I would only race him if I could open up my headers. I thought I might have a chance since he had the stock cast iron exhaust manifolds. I beat him by 6 car lengths in the 1/4 mile and was still pulling away at the end.
It ain't exactly stock. That thing eats chevy's and [bleep]'s hemi's.
Think of what it might do if it didn't have to exhale through $hitty cast iron manifolds.
Funny you should say that. He has them...they're getting coated. He bought a set of full lengh headers, but they hung too far below the frame and created some clearance issues. He lives in a town that is pretty much built into a hill and they would rub or be torn off on driveway entrances and pot holes.
He had to sell them at a big loss to be able to buy the shorter, custom set up.
I took a look at the wheel house and trunk extention fit to the quarter skin.
Actually what I was doing here was marking and measuring for wheel house placement. I hung the quarter skin on the car by hand and transfered a measurement point from the new skin to the quarter on the car, then I fit the wheel house in the quarter skin the best it would fit, and I transfered measurement points from the quarter skin to the wheel house lip.
Finally I took my measurements based off the new skin and marked them on the car.
That's it for tonight, I'm working inside my brain tonight (making game plan for tomorrow) from the comfort of my chair with some icy hot on my back. I have a feeling I'll be in good shape tomorrow so I can make welding and grinding sparks out there again.
I wanted a set of Jardene through the wheel well headers for my dart in 69. Until today in didn't know that Jardene and Thorley were one in the same. you learn something new everyday.
There is actually a lot of room in those tubs in stock form.
I want to say a 295/50 R15 will fit inside without rubbing if you get the back spacing right on the rim, 10" rim of course.
That's a 26.5" tire (aprox)with just over a foot of section width and over 10" of face contact to the pavement.
It doesn't leave you a bunch of room but your leaf spring pack is your inboard boundary and of course your outboard boundary is the lip where the quarter meets the outer wheel house.
The inner wheel house is damn near straight up so you'll never rub on the inner with a big tire, the outer wheel house half tapers in so you could rub there with a big tire and a trunk full of deer or something.
I'm sorry, this is not my car. I bought one like it new in 69. I sold it in 72. Like a fool. Mine had no power anything, brakes, steering, air, just power to the rear wheels. I wish I had this one.
you can always move the springs inboard if you have to, but like you said B body's got plenty of room for a descent size tire. A body's are where you run into clearance problems when you start going up in tire size.
It's pretty simple in my mind with the 68-70 B-bodies. if you stay within the confines of the factory wheel houses and you run a sure grip.... Everything matches up pretty well for street friendly fun.
When you outgrow your factory wheel wells with your traction needs, you outgrow a lot more than just the wheel wells. When you need to tub a B-body you need a lot more than just tubs in my opinion. Like a bunch of chassis work, maybe 4 link, narrowed axle of course, cage? Not to mention the obvious HP to turn it all and you best step up to something like a dana 60 as well.
That's a big step to take, big step.
And in my opinion it's the type of project that you build out of a car that is much further gone than mine. Like a car that needs frame rails and full floors do to rust. Because it's going to have to be "back halved" anyways for the 4 link and you'll be making a lot of your own floors anyways...
Every true gear head should have a beast like that, I probably will someday but it won't be with the roadrunner. This old bird has too much going for it with the numbers all matching up. And I don't mean "period correct" or �date stamp correct" engine etc, I mean this car has the VIN for the car stamped on the block and the trans. Somehow it all stayed paired up and in the right car all these years. That's pretty cool, I think.
Now I do have a "too far gone" 64 ford galaxie at home that wants to be tubbed, narrowed 9" rear, 4 link etc. And it is the right candidate in my mind because the floors are so far gone that I'll have to fab my own anyways. I'll likely go around 500HP with that one Spooled & narrowed 9" with at least a foot of rubber on the road per side. An unruly FE/4 spd combo.
Some day.
But the bird is to be more of an enjoyable cruiser.
Now I do have a "too far gone" 64 ford galaxie at home that wants to be tubbed, narrowed 9" rear, 4 link etc. And it is the right candidate in my mind because the floors are so far gone that I'll have to fab my own anyways. I'll likely go around 500HP with that one Spooled & narrowed 9" with at least a foot of rubber on the road per side. An unruly FE/4 spd combo.
There is actually a lot of room in those tubs in stock form.
I want to say a 295/50 R15 will fit inside without rubbing if you get the back spacing right on the rim, 10" rim of course.
That's a 26.5" tire (aprox)with just over a foot of section width and over 10" of face contact to the pavement.
It doesn't leave you a bunch of room but your leaf spring pack is your inboard boundary and of course your outboard boundary is the lip where the quarter meets the outer wheel house.
Why, It's almost like Chrysler expected folks to put slicks on 'em!
Not that Sox and Martin had anything to add to the design...
Your right Dave. If you need more grip than That, your gonna need more frame and chassis, then grunt to spin 'em.
The inner wheel house is damn near straight up so you'll never rub on the inner with a big tire, the outer wheel house half tapers in so you could rub there with a big tire and a trunk full of deer or something.
Back in my high school days, a clasmate's brother had a '65 'cuda with the 273 HiPo and 4-speed. A friend aske dhim why he didn't get a real car. He said he hadn't ben beaten yet, but if he found something faster, he'd get it. He showed up one afternoon to pick up Roy in an olive green '68 'cuda 340 4-speed. I asked him what happened to the HiPo. He smiled and said, "I found something faster". Oh, to have one of them now.
Damn, the LH outer wheel house was kicking my butt tonight. I basically lined it up inside the cut original and traced out the pattern to cut the new one. I cut the new one and tacked it into place. One problem, it measured about a half an inch low for the quarter panel fit up. It had to come up, but when I moved it up it didn't fit up top anymore to the original wheelhouse.
So I had to make some slices to bring the new wheel house down and inward to intersect with the remaining original wheel house.
It did work out in the end.
And a test fit of the quarter skin was perfect.
If I had simply lined up the alignment tab holes, welded and hoped for the best I would have been screwed when I went to hang the quarter skin.
You really have to take lots of measurements, especially with the repro stuff. I do think I have the best repro parts available, I got all AMD stuff and it's chrysler certified... It's just not always exactly like the original stuff. So when You try to splice half a repro wheel house to an original... Well sometimes it just takes a little longer to het it right.
You have to get those Traction bars off the leaf springs.....
Dang Chevy guy's don't understand Mopar leaf springs are set up long on the rear half and short on the front, making traction bars a useless addition. Stock springs and a pinion snubber....
You really have to take lots of measurements, especially with the repro chicom stuff. I do think I have the best repro parts available, I got all AMD stuff and it's chrysler certified... It's just not always exactly like the original stuff. So when You try to splice half a repro wheel house to an original... Well sometimes it just takes a little longer to het it right.
Fixed it for you. 1/4 inch here, a 1/2 inch there . . . screw that! I finally found new old stock Ford sheet metal for my 1965 Mustang. Costs 10X the Chicom stuff, but fits like it was made for it.
Is the Mancini the large threaded shank fully adjustable? Looks cool, whatever brand, but I think the adjustable MP one is good, I believe leave 1/2" gap tip to floor. I thought they all had the floor braced for the contact point.
And do NOT go TTI headers, mine in the 440 are a PITA tight fit. I put a TA 3800 stall converter and need to loosen it, need to drop the headers to get the converter out.....
Son is taking the Cuda down tomorrow to drop the 2 chamber flows for single chambers off the old racecar.... Me thinks he'll regret the police stops..lol
If you're refering to the one's I posted, those are on a 1964 Merc Marauder, my Dad owns. He bought a set of long tube, and they hung too far below the car to be practical where he drives.
Allen, yes I was talking about the threaded snubber. I like it because you can really fine tune that contact spacing.
As far as the contact brace, I was going to slide under there last night and have a look but I don't recall seeing one under there before. I have the stamped steel "paw" that reaches forward over the pinion yoke with the factory snubber which is far out of reach from the bottom side of the floor. But I don't remember seeing anything structural above it on the floor, I'm thinking I need to buy the correct pad and weld it in there.
I don't know for sure but I was thinking it was a hemi car thing from the factory?
Good advice on the ladder bars, Mopars shouldn't use them. If you are having serious traction problems (like with slicks), there is a different setup for Mopars but it escapes me.
Anyway, on the exhaust, you could consider keeping those Magnum manifolds and have them Extrude-honed, and then coated on the INSIDE. It'll keep them looking stock, but flow better and provide better heat control.
Actually I think we got a little confused with the idea that I might be looking for headers, but I'm not.
Tzone was showing some headers his dad got for the FE in his 64 ford... er, merc that is.
I'm perfectly happy for the time being with the HP cast manifolds on my 383. I'm not looking for headers right now, the HP manifolds flow pretty damn good and I've got 2.5" aluminized pipes out the back, flowmasters and a crossover tube.
It works just fine for my needs right now.
If I Get to hunting for hard to find 2 or 3 HP here & there I could eventually go after the headers but I like the HP manifolds.
Grouseman, I'm impressed to hear you mention the extrude hone process though. Here I thought it was just a flash in the pan blip on the radar from a couple decades ago.... good to hear people are still using the process.
As far as mopar traction, your most common reply is going to be pinion snubber and or possibly a spring change.
Second most common suggestion might be a set of cal-tracs.
If you can lay hands on the old style cast , Mopar headers Dave.Snatch 'em up. Everybody back in the day took 'em off for tube headers that rusted away. And gained only a couple HP at best. Chrysler was ALWAYS the best at flow design. I worked for an Chrysler engineer that went on to design the open chamber SBC head. Also the Mopar Indy engine. He was an engine flow Geenius!
Yea, Cal-vert is the common upgrade if Superstock ( SS) springs don't fix traction issues on a leaf Mopar, so I hear.
And I believe the 335hp was conservative due to insurance reasons from 68-72ish, I suspect a cam and better carb would net you an easy 400 hp, but you still, IMHO need 3.55 or 3.73 gears with the 4 speed....
I struck an arc and burned some welding wire but a good friend stopped by the shop and the company was much welcome, I shut it down so we could visit and I called it a night after that.
It will be a good weekend for the metalwork though, It's going to start looking car shaped again really soon.
I should still be out there because I was pleased to find that the twins game was canceled so my classic rock station had to revert back to playing music.
whats fun is having a piece of molten metal burn through your tennis shoe and get between your toes.
A 6-year old nephew was toasting a marshmallow over a campfire and of course lit it on fire. He shook the stick and the marshmallow flipped off into the grass just as his grandmother was walking by - bare foot meets flaming marshmallow - burning-sticky-goo squished up between her toes.
Grandma let the kid live. I always figured that was dang gracious of her.
I decided to tie my quarter skins in up at the top of the quarter.
Been thinking about it for a while, actually everytime I'm blending out a side weld seam with the body filler & sander I think "damn, should have tried it up top."
So, I ground the edge of the top corner until it was thin, then bent the unwanted tab down so I had at least a 90 degree outside corner to grind on.
Then I pealed it off.
Cleaned the edge and flanged for a slight overlay.
This is how the trimmed quarter skin fits on that flanged edge.
Couple of tack welds up top.
I actually used an old junk screw driver as a pull handle, cold tacked it to the original panel next to the seam and pulled upwards before burning each tack. Then cracked the screwdriver tack loose and moved on. It was barely enough of a tack to pull about 8 pounds of force without letting go.
Trouble down here at the bottom corner of the door.
Wiener Dog (mine) is an exact twin to Eaner Dog. He's 14, and just now starting to break down a bit. Changed his diet, and he is getting some pep back. But yes, they do get it done with RPM!
ND i do not get it.. Why are you doing all that work... Why did'nt you just leave it alone in the first place...How are you going to duplicate the art work on the car???
Just kidding looks awesome cant wait to see the end results...
We've got a few more guys up in our area that are pretty amazing with the car stuff.
One of them recently completed a build on a 37 Lincoln Zephyr Woodie.
Freeking amazing, the car is like rolling art.
Very tallented guy.
I have a 17 year old cousin that lives in Georgia that can do amazing things with cars. I've watched him work and come to the conclusion that you guys that can do this are artists. It goes far beyond just "auto body work".
We've got a few more guys up in our area that are pretty amazing with the car stuff.
One of them recently completed a build on a 37 Lincoln Zephyr Woodie.
Freeking amazing, the car is like rolling art.
Very tallented guy.
He is done with it? When we were there last year, I was in awe just looking at it and it was all tore apart yet. It is an awesome car. Very talented.
I don't think he would mind me posting a few pics here.
Powered by a modern Ford V-10 and Auto trans from a big E-series van, a bunch of the suspension components and final drive are from a wrecked pontiac I think, brand new. Part of a delivery traveling by rail that wrecked, zero miles.
Larry is a real artist, the woodwork is simply beautiful, the whole car is.
I went out to start on the car tonight and a buddy stopped by, after he left I had to put a CV boot back on an ATV so the boy could drag the driveway... kept popping off, the boot clamp wasn't squeezing tight enough in the locked position so I heated the ring cherry red and quenched it to shrink it a little. Seems to be working.
But now the night is pretty well shot, so no car work today.
He made that thing, I mean yeah there was a shell of an old car to start with but he changed so much on the car, made the roof, all that wood work framing is finger jointed maple, the dude did it all himself, it's really an amazing build. He really just plain built the car, I mean... chassis, everything, I can't even begin to explain it all.
He emailed me a pic of the interior... oh my god, stunning.
He made that thing, I mean yeah there was a shell of an old car to start with but he changed so much on the car, made the roof, all that wood work framing is finger jointed maple, the dude did it all himself, it's really an amazing build. He really just plain built the car, I mean... chassis, everything, I can't even begin to explain it all.
He emailed me a pic of the interior... oh my god, stunning.
It's on my work computer or i'd post it.
you work? i thought all you did was sit around all day drinking beer and thinking up ways to make us jealous of your skills?
I think I'm going to make a new goal. To ride in that car, holding Dave's beer, so we can see - er - make sure there's no wheel hop issues or something. Shotgun! Any back seaters?
The driver's side of the car in the rear quarter had suffered some sort of impact, hard to say if it was a tree, another car hitting this one, maybe this car sliding sideways into something... hard to say what happened 30-35 years ago but the dents on the top of that quarter are old hammer dents.
Metal bumping is truly a bit more of an art than simply pounding out dents. You need a good hammer and dolly set and you have to be sure you support the opposite side of the metal with the dolly with care to NOT strike directly on the dolly.
This is the most common mistake with hammers and dollies. People see the hammer and see the dolly and assume that you line them up directly and bang away to straighten out a panel.
You never want to hear that "ping" noise when striking with the body hammer. If it pings then you are hitting directly on the dolly and you are flattening the sheetmetal between the tools. this results in stretching, which is bad.
You always want to support a low spot with the dolly behind the panel and strike a high spot with the hammer on the outside, this raises the low spot with hand pressure on the dolly and the hammer sinks the high spot.
If you "ping" then you are stretching metal, if you stretch it then it doesn't fit within the area any longer so you will have an area that needs to bulge either in or out.
It gets a little more complicated than that with the selection of hammers and dolly types used but that is the number one rule, never "ping".
There actually were some cracks in the replacement piece which I think is normal, I welded them up and installed the new plate.
Welded from the back side to try and keep the outside grinding and cleanup down. I still need to get into some of the inside radiuses with a die grinder stone but it's not bad and the door shuts great now.
I hung the LH quarter skin tonight also.
I have to finish my wheel house welds, actually I need to do all of my bottom welds, but it's tacked up top, tail pan is welded and door jamb welded. Fits nice.
looking good there Dave. mind if i ask how much left until the earnest paint stripping and paint work starts? or do you not want to think about that just yet?
Very shortly. I need to pick up a spool of smaller mig wire for these long top side quarter panel weld seams but then my welding will be nearly done. I know I will run into a couple of small patch tasks as i work my way forward on the car with my sanding, but it will be so good to have the back half all welded.
I'll probably be sanding on saturday, if not sooner. (working on removing the rest of the paint)
Might be a dumb question here but. When you paint are you going to mask the stickers in the door and jambs, so it is still orginal? Or doesn't that matter much?
Might be a dumb question here but. When you paint are you going to mask the stickers in the door and jambs, so it is still orginal? Or doesn't that matter much?
sounds like a fair question to me too Tom, i was wondering the same thing actually. just a passing thought, but now you have me curious.
No matter how much work you put into recreating this things correctly... There will always be that guy that pulls up in plaid shorts, white knee socks, black shoes and a plymouth T-shirt with a pocket protector full of pens.... and he's gonna walk up and say "that's not correct you know.."
So screw it, this aint no concours restoration. It's my driver, cruise in car, small shows etc.
But Tom, if you want to come up with a heat gun I aint gonna stop ya! I could use the company, maybe pick up some beer on your way up? I buy u fly?
Still amazed that you don't have to put anything on that bare asss metal to keep surface rust off. Down here, your can't walk away to take a piss without surface rust starting. You're doing a great job. I'll bring up our 77 Power Wagon. It needs a lot of the same work. Will you work for beer, food, peanuts?
I hate when that happens, Dave. Just as the new wire hits the gun, I run out of gas. Luckily my supply shop is close by. ( Very near the school where the "God Hates [bleep] " azz holes are planning to protest..
The door jamb looks like a Jeep Cherokee job I did for the wife's old boss. His wife's car, the strikers came loose and she just kept slamin' 'em shut until the door gave way.
I welded in new and just painted the jambs. Came out nice.
What is it about Mopars and cheap-azz door jams? I had a '73 Duster, the danged thing was only three years old when I bought it, and I had to lift the door up to close the damned thing. Were they using recycled beer cans for sheetmetal in those days?
I dunno about mini-mopar, that sumbitch had a trunk big enough to haul four or five deer, if you wanted.
I did a run from St. Louis to Louisville one night, in 3.5 hours (250 miles, more or less). For a slant-six, it was a runnin' mo-fo. They'd have locked me up in those days, for that speed (55mph speed limit), if I'd got caught, but the grandmaflauge worked well.
Having something really frickin' hot drop on you while under a car presents an interesting choice. You can either lay there smelling your flesh burn and take it like a man, or beat yourself senseless on a cross member.
Having something really frickin' hot drop on you while under a car presents an interesting choice. You can either lay there smelling your flesh burn and take it like a man, or beat yourself senseless on a cross member.
Smelling your own flesh burning is the benchmark for which all "Serious" hot-rod builders are judged..!
"Grandmaflauge"-- The camo technique of driving an old lady's car, works well with old Mopars, and Oldsmobile Cieras, both of which are stealthy enough to keep the ticketmonsters away.
Originally Posted By: BLG You're doing a great job. I'll bring up our 77 Power Wagon. It needs a lot of the same work. Will you work for beer, food, peanuts? grin
Wow did we have a nice evening, 70 degrees, first time this spring it's been that warm.
So I put the back wheels on the groovy chicken and rolled it outside.
My youngest helper was on the job with me tonight.
I decided to pull the front windshield trim and peal the vinyl top tonight.
This is the trim removal tool I made several years ago using what was a plexiglass cutter at one time. I ground the cutting edge so it wasn't sharp anymore and I cut a little hook in the blade.
This is how it works, sneak it behind the trim and hook the clip to release the trim.
The front stainless came off really nice, didn't fight me at all and I was happy to see the clips in decent shape and the windshield tray looked decent too.
I'm seriously considering cleaning and rustproofing around this windshield gasket as best I can and leaving it installed for now through the paint job since we can't get these gaskets right now.
If it works out the way I want it too I will be able to remove the trim next winter and replace the gasket at that time and rust bullet or POR15 behind the gasket on the metal before reinstalling the glass. And that shouldn't effect my paint job at all.
Wow did we have a nice evening, 70 degrees, first time this spring it's been that warm.
So I put the back wheels on the groovy chicken and rolled it outside.
My youngest helper was on the job with me tonight.
I decided to pull the front windshield trim and peal the vinyl top tonight.
This is the trim removal tool I made several years ago using what was a plexiglass cutter at one time. I ground the cutting edge so it wasn't sharp anymore and I cut a little hook in the blade.
This is how it works, sneak it behind the trim and hook the clip to release the trim.
The front stainless came off really nice, didn't fight me at all and I was happy to see the clips in decent shape and the windshield tray looked decent too.
I'm seriously considering cleaning and rustproofing around this windshield gasket as best I can and leaving it installed for now through the paint job since we can't get these gaskets right now.
If it works out the way I want it too I will be able to remove the trim next winter and replace the gasket at that time and rust bullet or POR15 behind the gasket on the metal before reinstalling the glass. And that shouldn't effect my paint job at all.
Beautifull piece of machinery and history.It brings back so many memeories for me. I owned a 1969 Dodge Charger R/T 426 hemi,4 speed standard trans, the color was a metal flake copper,with a white vinyl roof. Just loved those red line tires.
Not much to report today, I did finish the long weld on the passenger quarter panel and it turned out pretty well.
Other than that I just scraped away at the windshield tray. Had to quit early to pack the truck for our trip tomorrow. We have a confirmation for one of our cool little nephews and we are going to pick up Pam's new truck... which isn't very new at all she's buying her dad's 79 F150 4x4 that she grew up with.
So I have a trailer to hitch up, chains, straps and tools to load into the truck.
Dave, when you do the welding along the seam, the idea is to not make it a solid weld? I understand the spots are to reduce the heat, but a solid weld is not required? Thanks. R.
But it's a slow road, buzzing short tacks to keep the heat down and trying to make all the tacks come together as one in the end.
I press in a special filler (I use evercoat metal 2 metal) in the seam to seal any pinholes etc then overlay with poyester glazing filler to blend any minor weld seam rippling.
But it's a slow road, buzzing short tacks to keep the heat down and trying to make all the tacks come together as one in the end.
I press in a special filler (I use evercoat metal 2 metal) in the seam to seal any pinholes etc then overlay with poyester glazing filler to blend any minor weld seam rippling.
Gotcha. I have a panel to try out, hence the question. Is the solid thing the way to go, or can a fella call it close enough with what you have shown so far? I can say, I have never learned so much about car body work as I have from your threads. Thanks again. R.
But it's a slow road, buzzing short tacks to keep the heat down and trying to make all the tacks come together as one in the end.
I press in a special filler (I use evercoat metal 2 metal) in the seam to seal any pinholes etc then overlay with poyester glazing filler to blend any minor weld seam rippling.
That is one Looong seam, Dave. Longer than a Smart Car!
Nice job! I would have so many waves it would make you sea sick to look at!
Have you ever tried bonding body panels on? I've used a 2-part epoxy that runs through a mixing nozzle on quarter panels, rocker panels and door skins. You do have to make a few short welds in high stress area, usually top and bottom corners, and clamp in place while it sets up. What I like about is that it's virtually warp free and you don't give corrosion a place to start. I know what a pain it is doing those individual spot welds the lenght of the quarter panel.
I researched it quite a bit as it gained popularity with the collision repair guys. A friend of mine was a pretty big fan of the adhesives out of the gates. But I've talked to too many in the classic restoration field that have regrets about trying it on large panel seams.
Mostly to do with darker cars like black cars soaking up heat in the sun and thermal expansion incompatibilities. Basically the seam mysteriously showing itself in certain conditions.
I don't mind the old school methods.
Especially since the entire body of this car is basically critical torque structure which is important when you plant 400 + HP to a pair of sticky tires and the engine tries to lift the drivers side engine mount at the same time it pushes down on the passenger side and it basically tries to twist the car like a beer can. (I don't quite make 400 HP right now but it would be pretty damn easy for me to get there with a few bucks)
dave I hate to mention it, as I know you're doing your best
but something about that long weld doesn't seem kosher to me.
I've done a little welding (very little) and while I'll get the little tack spots like you're showing but about every 3rd one I seem to get a gaping hole where I was trying to weld.
might be quicker to just use an ice pick or nail punch now, well if you want it to look like ole 2legit's handiwork.
you can thank me later, keep yer chin up son, glad i could help
you're gonna amount to something someday son, just hide and watch
I can like a young man that can receive constructive criticism and remain cheerful and open minded.
you've done so well taking my advice on this project I'm gonna dust off my copy of the Kumatra Suburama (freakin Indians can't talk right, but they're pretty nifty on the porn) and see if I can't perk up your married life a bit!
being it's momma's day just give the little woman a leering grin and tell her big things are in store for her!
I'll go see if I can find that book now.
but hey a word to the wise, you might want to do some stretches while I'm looking for it.
I pulled something really bad back in '73 when I was a uh student of Indian philosophy.
Have you ever tried bonding body panels on? I've used a 2-part epoxy that runs through a mixing nozzle on quarter panels, rocker panels and door skins. You do have to make a few short welds in high stress area, usually top and bottom corners, and clamp in place while it sets up. What I like about is that it's virtually warp free and you don't give corrosion a place to start. I know what a pain it is doing those individual spot welds the lenght of the quarter panel.
My dad uses this stuff a lot and is becoming quite a fan of it. He's trying to talk me into using it on a few spots on the 78 F-150 I'm doing.
Nope, I made an grader blade for my old tractor many years ago and haven't used it in recent years because I changed that old tractor into more of an antique tractor pull rig and the grader blade doesn't work on it any more. So, me and the boy converted that old grader blade into a pull behind grader for fixing the driveway. That was kind of our big project yesterday, build that pull behind grader and fix up the driveway.
It works pretty good, now if it would just stop raining....
Just a little sanding tonight, getting down to bare metal.
bondo excavation.
The dent in this door must have had a half a gallon of bondo in it, there is no sign of thenm even trying to pull the dent. I think I'll get by with a little less filler when I redo it.
I also took a picture of my paint color (new color) in natural light. It's the sunburnt copper.
I'm trying to convince my friend to bring his custom Thunderbird up to the car show. I told him to cuz he has it for sale and you never know. Dave I think I showed you a picture of that car.
First pass at shredding all the old paint and fillers off this side. I'll go around the entire car again with 80 grit to "clean" things further.
But it feels really good seeing the slate partially wiped clean so I can take a fresh run at the body work and paint.
A lot of things have changed in the past 35 years when this car was last refinished. Better products are available today and more importantly the car is 3 1/2 decades older and that much more desireable. So the expectations are up quite a lot as far as body & paint.
unfortunately I uncovered more problems with the rocker than I thought I was going to find.
But it's ok, it will be fixed correctly when I'm done.
Well Dave it looks like you have a good handle on the old Mopar. I apprenticed under a metal man well over 30 years ago and did many restorations out of my own shop and doubt that I could do better than what I see here. I assume the quarter panels you obtained did not go all the way up to the post and thus you made a good call doing that little overlap on the welded seam and doing so where you did it lowered the chance of warp considerably. I've butt welded more than a few of those l9ong panels and it is a slow process. Good job! Keep picken and filin'.....
Figure I'll do my weld seams with a special filler called "metal 2 metal" first, then epoxy prime the whole car, scuff and apply polyester filler where needed... Sand of course, then when I figure I'm close to straight I'll hit it with polyester prime, block the whole car, hit it again with polyester prime if need be... Then when I'm happy with the blocking I'll seal it, shoot the base, shoot the clear, block the clear and buff.
I just made myself tired just talking about that lol!!
so Dave.......wanna do a CJ5 next? keep trying to make time to tear into mine but the wife keeps wrangling me into other projects.....like remodeling a community banquet room hauled nearly 2 tons of chit out of there on Sunday, spent tonight masking chit off getting ready for paint......but will she give me time to re paint my CJ?
so Dave.......wanna do a CJ5 next? keep trying to make time to tear into mine but the wife keeps wrangling me into other projects.....like remodeling a community banquet room hauled nearly 2 tons of chit out of there on Sunday, spent tonight masking chit off getting ready for paint......but will she give me time to re paint my CJ?
I'm booked for the next half a decade as far as I can tell.
I have a project I need done as well, I will even buy you beer in the 16 gallon cans, and you could even have a real glass beer mug to drink it out of.
Figure I'll do my weld seams with a special filler called "metal 2 metal" first, then epoxy prime the whole car, scuff and apply polyester filler where needed... Sand of course, then when I figure I'm close to straight I'll hit it with polyester prime, block the whole car, hit it again with polyester prime if need be... Then when I'm happy with the blocking I'll seal it, shoot the base, shoot the clear, block the clear and buff.
I just made myself tired just talking about that lol!!
But once you get to the guide coat you'll be grinning! Pulling the trigger on a topcoat smells just like money!!! The matching numbers on that rig makes what your doing worth the effort.
I'm starting to think my B-body was used for practice scenes for dukes of hazard stunts.
Dents, dents, dents.
RH fender is junk, but I'll have to try and save it because I can't fork out $700 for a new one.
I've been hogging bondo off this smashed and hammer formed fender for an hour & a half now... makes me non happy.
But it is a very nice day, first we've had so far this year, The wife got on the riding mower and started the first mowing for the year today. (that's how late our spring is this year)
The car is running again, I prepped and epoxy primed the underside of the trunk and hung the fuel tank under the car again. So, I started the car and drove it outside of the garage for today's work, which did make me pretty happy Hey Tom264... Xmas lights...
Did some epoxy priming inside the trunk too.
Ok, I'm heading back outside for more bondo excavation on that fender. I had to come inside and grab a book and see what a new one cost before I continued on it. $700 bucks... yeah I'll work with it, see what I can do.
I'm trying like hell to get the rest of the car sanded today.
Dave,..you know that somewhere there's a guy on his death bed going over all the senseless stuff he's done thru the years with his children at his side. And then he stops and thinks a minute and says:
"but there will always be that SWEET mural that I painted on the sides of that 69 Roadrunner that captured the spirt an essence of America. That paint job was my pinnacle and will forever be a testament to my dedication and skill in the field of auto body!"
Dave,..you know that somewhere there's a guy on his death bed going over all the senseless stuff he's done thru the years with his children at his side. And then he stops and thinks a minute and says:
"but there will always be that SWEET mural that I painted on the sides of that 69 Roadrunner that captured the spirt an essence of America. That paint job was my pinnacle and will forever be a testament to my dedication and skill in the field of auto body!"
How will you be able to sleep at night....?
I laughed so hard I got tears in my eyes!! Nicely done!
Coulda been a deer whacker... hard to say. See, it was more than likely a crunch that has been pulled and hammered back into shape which whould explain what looks like 150 dents.
I always cringe when it comes time to strip a passenger side fender. Seems they take a beating. blind forward corner... Passenger side fenders are dent magnets.
It was a fairly productive weekend. Just to be clear, my dents are mostly in that fender. I see now that looking at my pictures the whole car may appear to have dents because of kind of a spotted look but those are just little patches of primer that I haven't quite got sanded off yet. I went around the car with 40 grit paper to remove probably 99% of the old paint and primer, Now I'll make a much quicker lap around the car with 60 or 80 grit which will help me clean the body panels even further.
Yes, you're just missing the choke. Otherwise your AVS looks to be in excellent original condition. They are very easy carbs to clean and rebuild. Straight forward design, gas doesn't leak out of them, and they make good power. Set them up as designed by the factory, and resist the urge to loosen the secondary air valve (what looks like a choke plate over the secondaries). All you'll get is a bog. The brass floats shouldn't ever give you trouble with soaking up gas. Make sure the choke pull-off holds vacuum. Ensure the rods and pistons move freely. The rods are delicate, so insert them AFTER the carb top has been installed.
When you clean out the various air bleeds and jets in the primary venturi clusters, just use solvent and compressed air. And they can only go in one way - look for a little notch on the underside mating surface.
The AVS (air valve secondary) is a more advanced design, an improvement on the AFB (aluminum four barrel). The primary side is similar to the AFB, but the secondary side is the precursor to the Quadrajet and Thermoquad designs. The primary jets and rods of the AVS are unique to it, and don't interchange with the AFB (unless you ALSO replace the dimpled step-up piston cover plate with the flat one from the AFB). The secondary jets however, are the same design.
That fresh air hood itself is worth a pretty penny. What can you tell us about the engine, and any future plans? I know you want to keep it fairly original and simple, reliable with reasonable economy.
The wife took notice of 2 things she declaired as "grand discoveries" yesterday.
this dash light...
And this reverse light...
So... everybody might want to check their mopars for these wonderful options... lol!!
Well.. the damn fenders fell off... actually no, they didn't fall off. After removing the 4326 bolts that hold the fenders on, they were removed. As well as the doors.
My best helper sanding a door sill area...
God this kid is great, he likes helping, and I like letting him help!!
This is becoming one of my favorite threads of all time! I have been lurking for several yeats now and I have never read everything up to page 72. I have to admit I am not a Mopar guy. My sister had a 65 Barracuda that I liked and my cousin had a GTX and a 'Cuda with a big honkin motor. Forget which one now but I know it had over 400 cubic inches under the hood. Lots of tickets but never crashed.
I thought it was getting ready to paint, and now your taking more parts off!!!
I know, I know... Well I have some fender work to do that will be easier with them off the car. it also allows me access to the forward rocker/hinge post areas for inspection/repairs. It lets me sand down these areas and get them painted better than I could with the doors and fenders on.
The other thing is that when I look at all the work that has been done this far.... Well I just have to do things right with the rest of the car too. Seperating the inner and outer fenders to clean and prime them where they sandwich together is a very good thing to do for peace of mind.
I'm also leaning towards pulling the engine now too so I can do a better job painting the inner fenders and firewall.
Dart Swinger, hot 340 with a 4 speed and 4.10 gears, not much going to pass you.
All it takes is a some long green.
Anyone with the cash can amble down to their local Mercedes dealer, buy a sedan that their grandmother could drive, and yet that same car would destroy the Dart in any performance measure.
That was some marvelous footage - great sounds!!! Thanks for sharing it. But, with all due respect, shouldn't you be out in the shop working on 'the' car?
ah the coolest days of drag racin when super stocks morphed into one piece funny cars the FX cars had acid dipped steel bodies with the wheel bases shifted as far forward as possible
The Hurst Hemi -Under Glass 'cude was made to race but wheelstanded too easily and ( with the Little Red Wagon ) created the wheelstander show cars.
Just drop a blown Hemi in the back of either one!
Some great names there, Bill Jenkins still in an Impala! The Ramchargers in the candy striped cars. Bill Lawton...
That was when the bug bit me and I ended up in a B/gas dragster all 92" of it! LOL
Hey Dave, just thought I'd drop you a line....I'm in heaven now (been raptured) I have a brand spanking new 1968 4 spd Hemi Roadrunner......sorry about your luck.
I've been terrorizing the people from Noahs time......Grin
Hey Dave, just thought I'd drop you a line....I'm in heaven now (been raptured) I have a brand spanking new 1968 4 spd Hemi Roadrunner......sorry about your luck.
I've been terrorizing the people from Noahs time......Grin
Well, Your one time zone east of me so I'm sure I'll get picked up pretty soon.
Hey Dave, just thought I'd drop you a line....I'm in heaven now (been raptured) I have a brand spanking new 1968 4 spd Hemi Roadrunner......sorry about your luck.
I've been terrorizing the people from Noahs time......Grin
He's been trying to catch my Thunderbolt all day. Hasn't been withing a car length yet.
I'm sorry guys, winter just doesn't want to give up it's grip on us. We have been dealing with terrible mud problems at home (driveway) due to frost coming out so late (ground frost) and a wet spring. I've been on my tractor most nights trying to shape up our driveway so that we don't need 4 wheel drive to get out to the paved county road.
We are supposed to be getting 4 loads of gravel delivered this week which I will have to spread and shape correctly with the tractor so it sheds off the water like it should.
We also have a graduation to go to this weekend (so proud of her) my neice (I call her my neice but she's actually my cousin's daughter) is graduating.
Next week, next week I should be able to get back after it. And there is a slim possibility I will be able to work on the car some tonight.
Well I did a small repair at the door pillar/rocker intersection forward of the bottom door hinge on the passenger side of the car.
It's one of the reasons I pulled the fenders.
I didn't even know there were any problems up in that area but it is a typical area for issues with these B-bodies. Had to get the fenders off and even still the rust was hidden under heavy body seam sealer from the factory. Once we scraped that loose we saw we had a small problem there.
No plans to "upgrade" from the factory AM radio the car came with. That's fine though, I can pull down the same AM station I listen to in my 07 F150 which is a local classic rock station.
"car audio" is wasted on me, I have zero appreciation for it.
All these "reality" classic car build shows like overhaulin or the chip foose stuff...
Well besides the 20+" donk wheels they put on everything, the time and money thet waste on the hi tech stereo and even video crap makes my head spin.
If they were doing a car for me I'd tell them to save the money, don't bother with that crap because it's going straight to the pawn shop if they put it in/on the car.
I don't know about you guys, but I saw Steppenwolf in concert at the old Minneapolis Armory in 1970. It was a great time. Right after the concert me and some bud's from college drove to Aspen for a little spring break ski trip. I don't remember much else.
No plans to "upgrade" from the factory AM radio the car came with. That's fine though, I can pull down the same AM station I listen to in my 07 F150 which is a local classic rock station.
"car audio" is wasted on me, I have zero appreciation for it.
All these "reality" classic car build shows like overhaulin or the chip foose stuff...
Well besides the 20+" donk wheels they put on everything, the time and money thet waste on the hi tech stereo and even video crap makes my head spin.
If they were doing a car for me I'd tell them to save the money, don't bother with that crap because it's going straight to the pawn shop if they put it in/on the car.
Be interesting if one of those shows like, "Pimp My Ride", did a follow up a year or two later on some of their creations.
I'd really like to see how many of those 'pimped to the max' rides they turn out are still fully functional and in well kept condition.
I got a feeling it'll never happen because it could turn out to be quite an embarrassment.
No plans to "upgrade" from the factory AM radio the car came with. That's fine though, I can pull down the same AM station I listen to in my 07 F150 which is a local classic rock station.
"car audio" is wasted on me, I have zero appreciation for it.
All these "reality" classic car build shows like overhaulin or the chip foose stuff...
Well besides the 20+" donk wheels they put on everything, the time and money thet waste on the hi tech stereo and even video crap makes my head spin.
If they were doing a car for me I'd tell them to save the money, don't bother with that crap because it's going straight to the pawn shop if they put it in/on the car.
Be interesting if one of those shows like, "Pimp My Ride", did a follow up a year or two later on some of their creations.
I'd really like to see how many of those 'pimped to the max' rides they turn out are still fully functional and in well kept condition.
I got a feeling it'll never happen because it could turn out to be quite an embarrassment.
If nothing else the big screen trunk TV's on hydraulics are probably broke from getting empty "40s" tossed on them.
I think the "383 Coyote Duster" sound system is good enough.
My brother had a '69 RR with balanced and blue-printed 383. He had Thrush glass packs on it, which is about the same db level as straight pipes. He finally listened to me and put on a pair of turbo mufflers. Called in a panic about the strange noise the car was making, so I told him to bring it over. He said I had to drive it to hear it. (Yeah, twist my arm.) I pulled down to the corner, hearing this hissing sound. He said, "That's bad, isn't it?" So I turned the corner and put my foot in it, and all hell broke loose as (I explained to him) 383 hungry cubic inches tried to suck in every bit of landscape around. No finer sound in the world, combined with the old Chrysler low restriction or hemi mufflers, or a good set of turbos. We don' ned no steenkin' stereo.
that WILL most likely be the high point in my day, next to seeing the look on my friends face when we walk into Sportsmans Warehouse for his first time...
I had a B-body friend ask me some detail on sail panel assembly for reassembly. I'm glad he asked me because I took this video for him and I'll use it to help myself get the headliner back together correctly.
Nate and I liberated the back glass from the car, we started with a wire style camping saw with Nate on the inside of the car and me on the outside doing a 2 man saw action cutting the seal between the body and the glass.
We broke that little wire saw pretty quick, and I was fine with that because I worried about it chipping an edge on the glass and crating a crack.
So, we came up with our own seal saw, made from a piece of welding wire doubled over and spun with a drill, held with a plyers.
It worked awesome, it will be my new basic practice for cutting old glass out that isn't gasket fit.
glass gone, unbroken thank god.
well the healdiner did come out, I will label the bows back to front so I get them back in the right slots in the new liner.
you know why most headliners go bad? because mice love the awesome mousy goodness hidden above the liner.
yuck.
I think I'll likely replace this with something less tastey like fiberglass.
Need a rest and some inspiration. We are holding our annual area car show this weekend on the 11th and I know there will be some nice B-Body mopars there, that will inspire some work energy. Then we are heading out the BWCA next week for a much needed camping/vacation.
When I get that all behind me I'll be eager to rip into the car again.
let me try and distract you all with this for now.
gotta stick with the old keystone classics that are on it for a while but if i get the money to buy what I want then I'll prob go with something like these wheels by Rocket
Well, I took a break from the car for our camping trip and when I got home from that trip my power was out in the shop. An underground wire feeding power to my shop fried and we had to get an electrician out with a locator to find the bad spot in the wire, dig it up and fix it. The power is back on now so I should be able to start moving on it again.
I know, I know... We also have some plans to spend a little time at our deer camp this long weekend too but I will try to reserve a day for working on the car.
For God's sake, Dave, we need photos!!! If you don't start posting again, I'll be forced to help the 'fire out by posting photos of my '63 Nova Longroof build!
My late high school years/early college years were spent as a Crager/Keystone expert. After breaking the first 10 or so on a tire machine I figured out the perfect combo of cones/rubber to change tires on each type free. Of course there were some big dudes about to kill my azz for busting their rims. I learned quick!
Apparently nobody else had the formula, because I was very popular with the black Richmond, VA crowd working with those rims.
Most of the white guys stuck with steel wheels. I suppose just to be on the "other team". I made more money on the Cragers.
I've never cared for the damn unilug setup either. Mine have the round washers with a centered hole so I suppose they are a bit better than the oval washer setup but not by much. I will have a decent set of wheels on someday that center correctly and securely.
No guys, the project didn't die. Neglected yes but it's still here.
I accidentally took a month off from the project. A camping/canoe vacation with the family followed by a power outage in my shop and playing catch up with mowing and seasonal chores both at home and at deer camp have been keeping me busy.
Plus my oldest son and I did a quick refurb on a nice little 14' aluminum fishing boat, motor and trailer... which of course we had to try out a little...
But my shop power is back up, I can now weld again, and run the air compressor... no excuses now.
I promise I'll get back after it and start posting pictures again.
I left off with the back glass out and was cutting out some rust in the bottom of the window channel and getting ready to fit some new metal patches. Front glass will be next and I suppose I can prime the main car body soon and move on to body work.
Anyway, many of us really like your Roadrunner (and formerly, the Mustang!) posts (I sure do!) but don't let any of us pressure you!
Work (and post) when you feel like it, and do not even think about the hundreds of us amateur car guys living vicariously through you, anxiously waiting for the next update!
I drift from one thing to the next like a cotton seed in the wind.
Fishing, hunting, gearhead hobbies, ATV riding, camping, canoeing, shooting, a little gardening, on and on...
It's very hard to keep me on task lol!!
Once I fall away from something I need to intentionally throw myself back at it real hard for a day or so. Then my attention might take root with that subject and I might be able to run with it for a while.
The older I get, the more I realize this restoration stuff is a lot funner to watch than it is to do. And I know why nicely restored cars cost so much, it's because they are freaking worth it!! Lol!!
I see a rotisserie in my future if I am to keep at the car/truck resto hobby.
busting rust on your back with chunks falling in your face is getting less fun every year.
I'm getting close to funner tasks on this car though. I really do need to press on forward with it.
If I don�t get it done by fall time... it will sit till late winter in 2012 because I hunt/fish heavy from fall on past mid winter. So my window is now, time to git r done.
Dave the rotisserie is the only way to go. One of my hunting parters is in the middle of a restore on a 1954 Buick Skylark convertible and he's doing it using a rotisserie and it sure does make the restoration easier as you can get to problem areas you can not get to in either a frame on or off restoration. Once the car is set up the rotisserie it definitely makes the job about 95% easier on the comfort level not to mention the back.
I'll try and get over to his place and get some pictures of his setup and post them here for you.
I'm five years on my latest project car, Dave. A re-frame and SBC powered Saab Sonett I hit a snag or have health setback and it goes on hold. Maybe this fall when the heat lets up...
Sometimes you wake up in the morning and you realize you have an iconic piece of American pride from better times sitting out in the shop partially finished.
A 1969 383 4 speed roadrunner.
I have one.
And it's time to get rolling again on the project.
Here you go boys, proof that the car does still exist. I've been chasing around the body today with 80 grit on the 8" sander, prepping for epoxy primer.
with this new job I'm going to start, i have to keep myself from getting carried away with the polara. images of a blown inject 572 stroker or a 528 hemi keep popping into my head. i want to be able to drive it on the street occasionally.
Well being from Big Falls I sure hope I can make a road trip when I come home and see it for real. Would be another great reason to spend some time around home maybe a bird hunting trip through Pine Island.
Why can't one of those hot rod tv shows come and steal my car and finish it for me?
I'd be ok with that.
I'd smile and say thanks, then take it home and sell the 24" donk wheels they put on everything along with 10 thou worth of speakers and "car audio" crap, buy a set of 15" steel "cop wheels" and build another car with the ebay money from selling the speakers, tv's, amps, subs, mp whutchajiggers and one off foose donks.
Cool I have lots of friends in Northome. Hunted and fished that area most of my life. Miss the fall and spring seasons glad to be away from the bug and cold seasons. Sure hope to get home for a bit of grouse and deer season soon.
I know it's tough to keep focus on a big project like this. Keep up the good work, this will all be a great memory soon, as you drive around in that beautiful Roadrunner.
In my weak, hole filled defense... I'm an old man inside, I really am, a poor tired old bazdard lol!
Plus I'm broker than the US government. That's not a real good excuse as I do have materials to go further than I am with the project right now, but I will need some items shortly and I don't have a dime to spare.
Really my greatest excuse is seasons.
hunting season grows closer, and I have much work to do so I can make the season as successful and enjoyable as possible for my whole crew. That's where my brain is at right now.
This car is 42 years old, it's in better hands, in better care and in better shelter than it's ever been in.
It'll keep till after the hunting boom is over with
Think of all the money you could save if you loaded your own ammo. I bought a box of ammo for the first time in awhile the other day.It was $40,I can reload those for less than $15.
Well I went after the rear window tray today. I had rusted out areas on both lower areas of the window tray left and right corners. After cutting the rust out I had a hole like this on both left and right sides of the car.
After the patch :
Both left and right patches will get a glaze coat of metal 2 metal filler prior to prime and paint. It's all hidden after the glass and trim go in but you still want it done right.
I also did some welding at the top forward corners of each quarter panel where these bodies like to crack.
Getting back into the project slowly but I'm picking up a little speed again and doing a lot of planning for the work that's still ahead of me.
starting to gather parts to build the 542 for my polara picked this gear drive up off ebay. soon as i get time, I'm going to weld in my frame connects and roll cage and since with the new job i won't have time to do the paint and body work myself, I'm going to have a buddy who owns a shop do it for me.
My mother's 69 was the orange. Omaha orange and called something else too. You should have seen the dealer try and match the driver's door! I think it ended up being shot three times!
I scrounged parts here and there. It was a wrecked heap in 1989 when I got it. It had been crunched in the front end and had a mason jar for a gas tank, lol. (just so dude could prove to me the 318 would run) Paid a $125 for the car on that day.
Anyway, there weren't no Internet when I started repairing the car. Just had to acquire parts by word of mouth or riding around and knocking on doors asking about junked Mopars in folks' backyards.
So, the 440 magnum hood is not correct. I got that in a parts swap with another guy that want some of my Coronet500 stuff.
As the car sits now, that is a 383 HP short block from a 69 Fury in there, with 906 heads I had assembled by another Mopar buddy that I dd some other trading on.
Not a show piece, no numbers match. Just a toy saved from the crushers.
I scrounged parts here and there. It was a wrecked heap in 1989 when I got it. It had been crunched in the front end and had a mason jar for a gas tank, lol. (just so dude could prove to me the 318 would run) Paid a $125 for the car on that day.
Anyway, there weren't no Internet when I started repairing the car. Just had to acquire parts by word of mouth or riding around and knocking on doors asking about junked Mopars in folks' backyards.
So, the 440 magnum hood is not correct. I got that in a parts swap with another guy that want some of my Coronet500 stuff.
As the car sits now, that is a 383 HP short block from a 69 Fury in there, with 906 heads I had assembled by another Mopar buddy that I dd some other trading on.
Not a show piece, no numbers match. Just a toy saved from the crushers.
Very cool
To me the 383 has a coolness factor that overshadows the 440.
I wouldn't have guessed a 383 swap, I think that's very cool.
Although that shifter is getting some age on it. I have been perusing thru the Summit catalog looking for an upgrade.
I looked hard for a 4speed. I did acquire a big block bell housing on the assumption that another gear geek was going to sell me a 4speed he had behind a 340Demon. But he got "clingy" with his tranny and backed out.
I did have another bud give me a Sure Grip with a Richmond set of 4:10 gears. It's under the work bench mothballed. I'm currently rolling a set of 3:55 ring/pinion gears I snatched outta Dodge "potato chip" van.
Also have a Dana 60 waiting for back up if I ever need it.
Yeah this is really no problem. I'm really ok with it because I was on the fence on a couple of fender patches and rocker patches too.
I was considering making my own patches for a rocker that's swiss cheesed and the 2 lower rear halves of the front fenders.
They form repair pieces for these areas, and if I'm ordering a floor pan I'll go ahead and order the fender patches and a rocker repair patch and save myself a bunch of fab time.
I always thought that that body style would be a classic as the body lines are over the top in my opinion. I owned a 1967 Belvedere II wagon, which is like comparing Apples to Oranges, but the lower body design is he same.
yeah those have been popular for dacades, but it's starting to spread to 64 and older impala wagons, that vintage of full sized ford wagons, prety much anything with some body lines and a little style without glued on wood grain.
Certain older wagons are bringing big $ these days, gaining huge popularity as build material.
Yep, just look at the going price today of Chevy Nomad Wagon to name one.
Well, I am not ancient enough to be able to recall that one, so I did a quick search to satisfy my curiosity. This car is older than me (and much better looking!):
Looks pretty sweet to me! No wonder prices are high...
You can see the rest of the pictures of this car Here, Carbuffs (and this baby is for sale right now)
I always thought that that body style would be a classic as the body lines are over the top in my opinion. I owned a 1967 Belvedere II wagon, which is like comparing Apples to Oranges, but the lower body design is he same.
You are absolutely right about the body lines. That is what makes these cars so nice to look at and as you say they are classic.
Certain older wagons are bringing big $ these days, gaining huge popularity as build material.
Yep, just look at the going price today of Chevy Nomad Wagon to name one.
Well, I am not ancient enough to be able to recall that one, so I did a quick search to satisfy my curiosity. This car is older than me (and much better looking!):
Looks pretty sweet to me! No wonder prices are high...
You can see the rest of the pictures of this car Here, Carbuffs (and this baby is for sale right now)
dropped my 440 block off at the machine shop today, having Robbie check it to make sure its good to go.now i got to decide if I'm going to do the paint and body or pay a shop to do it.
Pulled the 360 and trans out of my 74 Challenger last weekend, assembling my 440 next week ( needs a roller chain, ported 906's installed and change the front/ rear seals in a 727 that came out of my Cuda before we put the reverse man valve body trans in it. The 440 with stock 452's and a mild RV grind cam was pretty stout in a 65 Fury I had, can't wait to see what it does with ~500 lbs less weight with the ported heads and a much bigger Hyd cam...
I may need to put the STR-14 Sixpack manifold on it.
We have some cancer to fix on the firewall after stripping the bay of electrical wires for paint, probably going to keep it B-5 Blue. I was thinking I need to snap some pictures and start a thread for the car folks here.
My friend who sold me the Cuda couldn't find the chrome aircleaner, so he had it done at a shop, looks wicked with the huge cleaner but hides the 3-2's.
I have an original "cheese grater" cleaner but have a K&N to replace it.
Roger, how many cubes will the 440 block end up with? Still going stroker 500" ?
it'll end up being 535 at 30 over.using a 4.5 stroke eagle crank and 7.10 callies billet rods and mahle pistons. and thinking i'm going to go this rout on the induction.you'll have to copy and paste the link.
I inventoried the project last night, made some calls on some parts, planned for Saturday's work.
It's time to dust off the tin chicken and resume progress.
From the tin shop I have on order a pair of fender repair patches, one drivers side floor pan, one rocker repair panel and a pair of frame conectors to stiffen the car up.
From classic industries comes a new carpet, a white vinyl top, some trim clips and numerous other do dads and bits.
I believe a couple of years ago I started on the 65 mustang in.. April? And I was done in June. That was tear down, sand to bare metal, body work, glass, repaint, cut/buff, weatherstripping etc..
A lot of the stuff that I have ahead of me right now and I have a jump on it with this one having all the paint sanded off and a big jump on the body work.
If I get my arse in gear, It could be up and going by 4th of July or so. In primer. Paint this fall/winter.
Plan is to sell it and buy one worthy of keeping. This one would need many more thousands put in it for me to want to hang on to it for a long time. Next one will be better, and a long box so I can actually buy a box for it.
That's not too rusty- rusty is when you can either chuck a cat through the hole or stop it Fred-style.
Glad to see you back at it! With your expertise, it will see a summer cruise night. I haven't moved my GTO up from IL yet. I was going to do it last weekend, but my tow vehicle (the Excursion) had a tire let go and it did $3K of damage to the rear quarter. It's still at the Ford dealer.
Dude - that just makes it lighter. Lighter = faster.
After one particularly epic party that involved a set of hot twins from Powers, we did a Taco Bell run. Part had a mid 70's Ford that had no floor boards. Well it did - basically had a 2x6 from the trans tunnel to the outside rocker panel.
Wish I woulda taken pics. The run into Esky was only 20 miles but it was 3am in January. The 40 mile roundy was about the coldest I've ever been in my life.
That might be a bad move, Dave. One of my sisters was pulled over for speeding and the officer asked if he could look around inside the car - she said, "sure". The officer's foot went through the floor behind the driver's seat. He felt bad and let sis off with a warning.
Dave Did you take a course on body work? If not you are talented. I admire you!
That's quite a compliment and I appreciate that.
But I am envious of the guy that can just buy one finished or pay someone to do what I'm doing lol!
I didn't put any words with the mobile phone uploads I posted yesterday.
So I'll try to explain a little this morning.
You can see the large floor piece removed from the driver's side. There's a crossmember and a forward frame rail under the floor pan in that area along with a couple of splash shields just behind the firewall to toe board seam. The floor pan was joined to all of this under structure at the Lynch Road Chrysler plant in MI in 1969.
They used spot welds at the factory, and when you take this stuff apart you need to split those spot welds and peel this stuff apart. Most welds I drill, some I just split with a chisel on an air hammer. Then I drill the overlying panel and plug weld where the factory spot welds used to be.
I decided to do a puzzle fit butt weld on these patches so that when it is finished there will be no visible seams from under the car. the longest seam to weld goes from the rocker to the trans tunnel. I was able to place that seam directly on top of the crossmember weld flange so the seam is completely hidden from the underside of the car.
The pan turned out really well, I painted the insides of the frame structure before putting the new pan on.
The passenger side needed a small patch, this is the rectangular 4"x6" patch I showed in the pictures. Again I went for a puzzle piece fit with butt welds. The patch was also right over the forward frame rail so I needed to drill and plug weld where it was originally spot welded from the factory.
After the welding was done Pam helped me scrape a bunch of old undercoating off the top side of the floor pans and I brushed on a rust encapsulating paint from eastwood. I like this stuff because I can brush it into all the factory seams and let it creep into the seam before putting new seam sealer back in.
I�m really glad to be done with the floor, now I need to cut a bad area out of the driver�s side rocker and repair with new metal, and I need to weld the sub frame connectors into place. They will help to stiffen up the car and reduce twist/flex which causes cracks in these bodies over time.
That twisting increases over time as some of the body panels rust out. With this late 60�s B-body having all those areas restored to original condition it is going to be a nice stout body/chassis once again.
God I am sore and tired, that was a lot of damn work for the little that got done.
God I am sore and tired, that was a lot of damn work for the little that got done.
(it always is)
And we appreciate all you're sharing with us. The majority of us don't have the space, time, or (most importantly) the talent and know-how to do the work you do. It's a thing of beauty to see abutterfly emerge from it's cocoon. Cary on, sir.
Floor pans are always a PITA My BIL just did an entire 3 series BMW ( one of the X 4X4's ) My Sonett was your typical '70's sheet metal from Ohio and Michigan! Patches on top of patches. One of the reasons I sold the tub and framed it.
Well, that's not fair actually. Sometimes you can be pleasently surprised. This was not the case with the roadrunner though.
I did think the floors were good from inspecting the underside before purchase of the car. That and the drivers rocker, and passenger fender were surprises.
Everything else I expected, I could see the trunk floor was junk, trunk to quarter extensions, outer wheel houses, quarters...
I took a chance on the roof, especially around the front and rear glass (trays) and the roof overall since it was a vinyl top car. I won on those gambles and lost out a little on the floor, rocker and the passenger fender.
Not a big deal really.
I won out bigtime with the discovery that the car still had it's original engine and transmission verrified by VIN stamped on them.
Overall it's a good car that needed what most need, a little more than some and a little less than others.
I don't like picking up repaints as projects because they can hold secrets under that paint. But this one was unique in that it had a repaint with some crazy artwork that was dated 1976.
How many secrets could be hiding on a car that was repainted when it was only 6 or 7 years old?
Plenty.
But now I know what I've got. it's too bad I'm not really a mopar guy at heart.
Honestly I CAN work with what I've got but a little nicer RH fender would be nice. I might snag one off a parts car I learned of that's about an hour and a half drive from home.
I have some trimming and straightening to do on the inner, also need to pick up some weld through primer as I ran out.
I also need to bring this rocker repair panel in to work and stick it in a press brake to correct a couple of bends. You can see the profile difference between the original slice and the profile of the repair panel.
I got the bend profile corrected on the repair panle, but the metal really is way thinner. The new piece is 20 gauge, the original looks like 16 gauge...
I can't put a 20 gauge rocker on a unibody car...
Guess I'll make my own from a new piece of 16 gauge CRS like I should have from the beginning.
Question - once tacked in, how strong do you figure a rocker is? I ask because when I was younger - my cousin had a bat outta hell 5.0 Merc Capri. Totaled it one night and the rocker panels were pushed in 9 inches on each side. I've always wondered how hard you'd have to hit it to push it that far.
Rims wrecked so bad they wouldn't roll - damned stupid accident and everyone's lucky to be alive. Literally had to cut the car out between 2 cedars about 5.5 feet off the ground.
Wished I lived closer. Would bring some lead and paddles and take care of *joining* sheet metal for you. Stay away from bondo in those areas if you can.
Those jugs have used oil in them, friends drop off all their used oil at my place because i have a waste oil burning furnace in my shop.
I'm kind of a mobil oil guy
Originally Posted by idnative1948
Wished I lived closer. Would bring some lead and paddles and take care of *joining* sheet metal for you. Stay away from bondo in those areas if you can.
Thanks, I tack it all the way around to hold everything flush before I start doing the real welding. This piece was put in with a solid butt weld all the way around except for the bottom flange where I duplicated factory spot welds with plug welds.
I am very happy, it's pre weekend and I am finished with metal work on the main body of the car, that means I can work on primers and body fillers etc all weekend.
Feels good, i'm not going to build 1000 hp like stx but i might bump up into the 450 range. With the sure grip and the amount of rubber i plan on fitting in the rear wheel houses, it feels good to know the body twist will be greatly reduced.
Yes, its a more water tight resin filled with powdered aluminum. I use it to dress weld seams, very little of it. It is used anywhere lead used to be used.
Plymouth called it T7, or (saddle bronze metallic)
A brown hotrod.... only me right?
It's the original color code for the car, T7 with a white vinyl top.
And since I've discovered that the car still has it's original engine, trans, drive train etc (serialized), I feel obligated to put it back to original. Well, except for the wheels and tires and any sneaky minor bolt on and internal engine mods I might sneak in there.
I've searched for over a year now to try to find a picture of one with T7 bronze and a white vinyl top, I can't find one.
I guess that just tells me it will be a unique and rare combo.
I've been pondering nicknames such as "the rootbeer float"
Plymouth called it T7, or (saddle bronze metallic)
A brown hotrod.... only me right?
It's the original color code for the car, T7 with a white vinyl top.
And since I've discovered that the car still has it's original engine, trans, drive train etc (serialized), I feel obligated to put it back to original. Well, except for the wheels and tires and any sneaky minor bolt on and internal engine mods I might sneak in there.
I've searched for over a year now to try to find a picture of one with T7 bronze and a white vinyl top, I can't find one.
I guess that just tells me it will be a unique and rare combo.
I've been pondering nicknames such as "the rootbeer float"
(brown with a white top)
The bronze metallic will look great after YOU shoot it Dave. And wet sand it. Use big flakes. And flash dry each coat so they don't lie down too far.
It will really sparkle then. Aftermarket wheels and tires then will really set it off. I was never a fan of vinyl tops back in da day. But now they are making a resurgence with collectors. ( probably because so many stripped them off before ..)
with the original decals.. air filter. This will be a great 'bird.
My mother had a 69 in the bright orange ( omaha or hi c? orange ) with a black /black top bench and the matte black hood panels and opening red air scoops. The exhaust note from the 383 4 brl was always a head turner. They towed a pop up scamper to Florida and back with it. Other than lack of AC .. it was cool.
( she only let me drive once or twice. I remember taking it up to about 120 but it was missing to badly to continue... gotta love pre-electronic ignitions..) My brother came home on leave and drag raced it once, IIRC he was beaten by a BB Chevelle automatic as well.
No AC was why she traded it off for a paisley Fury III. It was the bronze / brown with dark brown vinyl paisley seats and top. 4 door
I had suspected my car did not have any stripe options on the hood.
Verified by my 383 badges being removed for the first time.
T7 Bronze under those badges.
My daughter ran an angle die grinder with rol lok pads to remove old paint and funk from the passenger door hinge area.
I like my car, but I like it a little better now that my daughter has done a little chunk of work for me on the car. (best thing that happened for me all week)
leveling quarter tops, it's going very good, she gonna be straight!
It brought back mamories of pulling gears through a narrow H pattern on a yellow 70 440 satellite my mom had when I was young. I got to drive it ONCE.
Gunner, I looked for side markers on the front fender of the purple plymouth you sent pics of to see if it was a 68 or 69... But I couldn't see any markers... Were they removed and filled in?
I like my car, but I like it a little better now that my daughter has done a little chunk of work for me on the car. (best thing that happened for me all week)
Man, I remember those pistol-grip shifters from back in the day. Never used one, but there were some pretty way-out-there shifter handles available in the aftermarket. You could even get them at K-mart!
a local Chrysler dealer has a collection and owns a Hemi , 4 speed that looks exactly like that one. For some car show/ drive ins he'll bolt a pair of cheap slicks to it and destroy them in an evening of burn outs!
After meeting you in person and realizing how much of a nice guy you are.(Also remembering conversations said before we met.)
I would like to say that is a very nice looking purple car you have.
But remember to put your ear protection in. I can't remember what they were speciffically called. But no use in going deaf from a loud exhaust and noisy motor.
And yes PaMac, I like cars, but love hunting, ALOT more, gotta save the ears that is an old factory color, its called Plum Crazy Purple. Gunner
I like the car, but those plum crazy preserves are outstanding! When I head out to Tulsa this year I'll stop by and I'll let ya show me if that plum crazy fruit scooter can jam....
I dont think I'll pull it. I have to pull the exhaust manifolds because I have a leak. That will help make room for painting inner fenders. I han hit the firewall with that big aircleaner off the engine.
Dude....Did somebody break into the shop and steal all your stuff? In the 3rd pic, I can see the garage floors, doors, walls, over the top of the road runner.
I'm glad to see Dave doing something productive with his time instead of just surfin porn and eating Cheetos
and while I'll begrudgingly agree your work looks good Dave, I just want us to be clear (Prez taught me to say that), that I could do EXACTLY what you're doing
provided I had 3 lifetimes
a much better skillset
and a work ethic
give me those and I'd build my own RR and not have to look at pix of yours!
but I really enjoy lookin at the progress of your car. Great job, keep on keepin on man.
The car cultures seems alive and well up North. I remember when I was a kid and all the rebuilt cars that would cruise the strip in Ely on Friday and Saturday nights. Quite a collection it was. Seems like it continues.
It also got me hooked on 1950s pickups. Eventually, I bought a '56 F250 with a straight 6 and it was a great truck - all 7 different colors of house paint not withstanding. But I learned that I wasn't one to want to wrench on it every weekend, so I sold it a few years later before it busted all my knuckles and my kidneys.
I actually have that picture bc, Like I said, i've scoured the internet looking for it.
That may be a T5 or an orange, a photoshopper could tweek it.
But I wont do the black stripes, I can't find any evidence of them originally being on my car and IMO it would get too busy with bronze/black/white
Was on an errand the other day and saw this, and immediately thought of you, ND. Actually turned around to pull in and take a couple of phone pics for you. Forgot about them until now. My dream ride is a '69 Charger R/T. Some day.
Thanks for keeping the dream alive, and bringing us along on these labors of love, Dave.
Dave, i saw somewhere in my research for a pic of the RR in those colors that there were only XXX made in this color combo, and xxx number in this combo...
do you know how many were made in the color scheme you have?
I took one of my car doors that had a little original paint left on it over to a friend's shop that mixes for color match tonight. We got the basecoat recipe figured out. It's pretty cool.
It was really nice to see a color match, I'm pretty excited about it, it's one of those little things that baits me along through the project.
I was coming home this evening.....stopped at a stop light and looked to my right......a near clone of your car was sitting there waiting to make a left turn......same color as your car, but with a black top.
When I read that you were going back with the original color, I thought "what a waste"......however, after seeing the color in the flesh, I may have changed my mind......it looked GREAT!!
By the way, my '68 Camaro was black when I bought it in 1979........found out when I replaced the vinyl top that the original color was the somewhat rare "Corvette Bronze Metalic".......something like this:
It's still black, but I guess I should keep quiet about your color choice!!
Northern Dave, I just found this thread and read through the whole thing, what a page turner! You are very talented and the project looks awesome. I can't wait ti see the finished product when you get 'er done! I must say however that I feel much less manly than I did before knowing that a project like this is way beyond my capability. As such, I am hereby voluntarily deducting one point from my man card.
Northern Dave, I just found this thread and read through the whole thing, what a page turner! You are very talented and the project looks awesome. I can't wait ti see the finished product when you get 'er done! I must say however that I feel much less manly than I did before knowing that a project like this is way beyond my capability. As such, I am hereby voluntarily deducting one point from my man card.
You should look at Dave's Mustang project from two years ago.
Sorry guys I was slacking on the photos today. Too busy just working.
We got the 2 huge doors all stripped down to bare metal inside and out. I had to cut out a soft spot on each door smaller than a post it note and puzzle piece metal patches in to replace small rust spots. I pulled dents on one door, I did the seam sealer throughout the rest of the car, undercoating on the insides of the quarters from inside the trunk... Sealed the insides of the wheel houses, worked more on blending the quarters to rockers...
Well here's one of my metal patches at the bottom corner of a door, trimmed and ready to weld. I did both doors.
The doors are both ready for primer.
Bottom side of the N96 (ram air) hood got a couple spot welds fixed, got sand blasted and primed today.
trunk seams got seam sealer, I try to simulate factory seams which are actually sealed pretty crudely...
And the man body continues to endure minor tasks with seam sealers & and spots of filler here and there, mostly where it had factory filler. Body seams by rockers, sail panels and cowels.
Yeah I really lucked out on the doors. They only broke through with a trace of rust where moist dirt was trapped in the narrow ply between inner and outer door shell in the bottom corners.
I have zero experience in doing body work, but I know enough to stand back and admire a master at work.
ND, this RR project is amazing. I love your diligence in doing the hard stuff that most restorers would blow off as "close enough for government work". Those triangular inserts in the corners of the door panels blew me away!
If you havent seen angle grinder work gone awry,you aint seen nothing.
You're right. Working in a shipyard I have seen some "stuff". Oddly enough, the worst I have seen has been the result of a Dewalt with a wire wheel and no guard. UGLY!
And I got a good start on pulling everything off the firewall, labeling, cleaning/degreasing etc.
I'll keep going on the engine bay by dropping the coolant, pulling the exhaust manifolds for cleaning/painting. I also need to remove the dampner shaft from the RH manifold that was originally for the heat riser. I'll remove the shaft and plug the shaft holes.
I'll be able to pull the heater hoses from the firewall once the coolant is gone and I'll pull the radiator at that time too.
With the exhaust manifolds off I'll have better access to the inner fenders and for cleaning stuff like the steering sector.
We'll get the firewall and inner fenders sanded down and primed soon.
Meanwhile I'll be able to hang the doors back on the car and adjust them. Then I can start shooting some color. I'd like to do the insides of the doors and jams, engine bay and bottoms of hood and trunk lid all at once.
only takes about a hr to pull that motor.then you can paint it too.
I'm just not doing it this year. Not this spring anyways.
Maybe next winter if I get bored.
I pull that engine and I open up another week of work cleaning, regasketing if need be, painting engine and trans, the K-frame... Might as well slide a modern grind in there for bumping the lifters... Where's it stop?
It looks like one. It has the red Brembo brake calipers that all SRT8's do. I can't make out the badge on the front fender. Could be a Hemi R/T too. It is not the V6 'secretary' version. That I am sure of.
Well it wasn't the committed weekend that I wanted, but some work did get done on the car so that's better than nothing I guess.
I decided to use ordinary construction adhesive to "glue" my hood skin to my stamped hood frame in the spots where there was originally a seam sealer of sorts which sets the height of the hood skin in relation to the stamped frame on the underside.
To do this I decided to use a pair of saw horses as support bunks and a wheel/tire as a weight to offer some downward pressure on the stamped frame as the adhesive sets up.
Here's a shot of the new rear bumper with most of the hardware transferred over to it from the old bumper.
Here's my best worker running the 90 degree angle die grinder with sanding pads inside the engine bay.
I will cut that shaft out of the manifold and plug the 2 holes it went through as part of my manifold refurb.
I'm really glad I pulled the manifolds, I did have an exhaust leak that sounded like hell under the hood before and I was also getting a bit of a coolant smell from a minor coolant leak on one side that was burning on the exhaust manifold. I see that I was missing one of the special long reach manifold nuts on both manifolds. So I'll be ordering a fastener kit for these along with my gaskets.
Been watchin' Dave, but my normal connection speed (via aircard) is so slow that it prevents me opening threads that contain a lot of pic's, or videos. I'm benefitting from a much faster connection at a motel right now.
You need a van with the mural to replace the one on that RR...
Teal's right,...otherwise you're gonna mess up the Zen of the Universe...throwing out bad vibes everywhere you go...
Some ideas...
Those were FUGLY in the day and HAVE NOT improved with age!
Amazing how an image can trigger memories. I remember well those types of vans with the hideous fantasy/sci-fi/psychedelic/other mural scenes. How about the cornball, ridonkulous stickers. 'If this van's a rocking, a don't come a knockin'!'; 'You toucha da car, I break-a you face' type stuff. The 70s were bizarre, style and pop-culture wise.
Dumb question here, but why not yank the mill/tranny and slap it on a stand, would be easier in my thinking for buffing out the engine bay.... Free labor?
Yeah I know it looks like the thing to do Dave. But you'd have to know me better to understand. I'm on a deadline of sorts that I am not sure is possible (dont know if I'm going to make it)
Here's the thing, in my mind, if that engine comes out right now... I can just as well tack another year on this project.
I'll try my best to explain what I mean. I'm building a driver, I want it to be nice, but it won't be a trailer queen. I have a basic budget type plan for this car, budget on money and budget on time.
I know what things I want to do to the car and I know what things I want to leave alone for now.
If I take that engine out of the car, I'll have it apart in no time and I'll be blowing cash on new engine guts etc. And with the engine out, might as well drop the K-frame, and then since it's such an empty shell at that point... might as well drop the rear axle and springs too. Stick it on a rotisserie, make the belly as pretty as the top side, pull the dash out, leave no bolt unturned...
That's where it would lead to.
And I might someday, but right now I just want to drive it. It's sort of a line I've drawn in the sand.
DW444, years ago, I lived outside of Espanola - you can't even begin to believe what a PITA it is to get across that town, during the weekend, in summer! Car-hoppers, and low-riders, side-by-side @ app 1 1/2 mph, conversing with each other, traffic be dammed (literally)!
Oh if you only knew how I have reserched and measured for wheel/tire combo lol!!
I figure for the rear, american racing torque thrust polished aluminum 15x8.5 with 3.81" backspace. 5-4.5" conical seat, 275/60R15 tire, blackwall out.
Front, same wheel in 15x7 with 3.76" backspace, 215/70R15 up front.
Several teens () were out cruisin in an orange and black Runner. We were heading east at 2 AM on Hwy 2 heading back to GF "leisurely" at 80-85 mph. Suddenly another Runner of the same color was along side of us, the race was on.
Wasn't much of a race as all we saw was a big orange wing as it passed us. The guys at the GFAB had some hot cars back in the day....
It was the first Superbird we had the pleasure of seeing.
I dig the wheels but the last tire I'd put on there would be Goodyear Polyglass. I had them on my '55 for a long time before I could afford different tires. They couldn't get traction on sandpaper. If there was any moisture on the ground plan on spinning the tires when you let the clutch out. (I do that anyway. )
I'd get the Flowtech headers instead: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BIG-33130FLT/ Smaller primaries and colectors would give higher flow velocities for more low and mid-range torque and hp. Just the ticket for street use, especially with his 3.23 rear end.
Weld an O2 bung in each collector. You can cap them off for now, but you will be thankful you did it later if you ever want to tune and/or diagnose your engine.
I sorta get it. Springtime's coming, you want the rumble with the windows down before the air attack fleet shows up. And I sure understand temptation. It's just that over time I've gotten so sick and tired of "submarine mechanics" -- my late stepdad was an all-oceans/tonnages captain and I was the flexible swabbie -- that the instant yanking the engine or an assembly makes for less upside down and backwards BS, I will. I just do better work standing up straight without bleeding. Looks grand so far.
One is a late 40's GM car, chopped. sanded to bare metal, hand painted rivets and panel seams under the clear to make it look pieced together and freshly chopped.
Getting my 69 GTX closer as well. I am getting the body as straight as possible with the etch primer. I am going to shoot urethene primer this week and start blocking that.
In typical dave fashion, I've charged forward to the point at which I can see light at the end of the tunnel... then I start dragging my feet. I'm out of ambition, pretty much entirely.
LOOKING GOOD Sir, keep up the pictures so at least I can enjoy the experience vicariously through them. Like the engine compartment, pretty damn good for leaving the motor in.
And thank you, you're too kind. This was good work to get done tonight but it's a bit like "rough framing" stages of construction. lol!
Basically I laid the polyester primer on as heavy as I could because I'll be block sanding a good amount of it off the car prior to the final primer stage.
So...you spray a bunch of stuff on just to sand it off again?
Pretty much.
It's all about leveling a surface at this point. When I am done block sanding this out I have chosen a 2k urethane primer as my final primer/sealer before spraying base coat.
No, it's a day and night contrast from cut to un-cut primer (sanded and untouched)
No "guide coat" needed here. See how dark the door is? I havent touched that door yet with the sandpaper. So the areas that the block foats over remain dark like that door.
Here you can see WHY I surface and block sand.
Brand new steel isn't perfect. I have high and low spots. Granted it's ever so minor, but this block sanding shows it all. I will be hitting these big long quarters with another coat of polyester prime and re-blocking before final prime.
Yeah, the fenders need some rust holes cut out and patches fit/welded. Also some hammer work and the inner to outer fender area had to be seperated for cleaning, rustproofing and to be properly joined with a sealing compound.
Pus i wanted to redo all the fasteners and gain better access to the radiator support and the corners of the cowel.
With that much polyester primer, are you monitoring for excessive film thickness?? I figure you are blocking most of it off, but, still, 2 heavy applications are going to really build film thickness.
With that much polyester primer, are you monitoring for excessive film thickness?? I figure you are blocking most of it off, but, still, 2 heavy applications are going to really build film thickness.
This last shot I'll be spot priming any low areas and laying one light coat across the doors and quarters.
Actually it's looking so good right now that I may just jump to the 2K urethane.
Or hell, better still, why dont I just ship mine up there for you to drive around till the weather cools off a little and ya feel like workin' on yours.
I hear ya neighbor, and I'll tell ya something else that WILL happen to ya when yer out and about in it.
Now I never start trouble, but I'm convinced I've put several young bucks on the phone to daddy begging for a bigger/better chip when they get there asses spanked by 20' of 40+ year old MOPAR sheet iron.
It's funny as hell, light goes green, you hear the sound of a pissed off dirt-dobber [their car] and see the front tires spinning as you glide on by and leave them in a cloud of tire smoke and Holley carb fumes. It's a riot Dude.LOL
I hear ya neighbor, and I'll tell ya something else that WILL happen to ya when yer out and about in it.
Now I never start trouble, but I'm convinced I've put several young bucks on the phone to daddy begging for a bigger/better chip when they get there asses spanked by 20' of 40+ year old MOPAR sheet iron.
It's funny as hell, light goes green, you hear the sound of a pissed off dirt-dobber [their car] and see the front tires spinning as you glide on by and leave them in a cloud of tire smoke and Holley carb fumes. It's a riot Dude.LOL
A BB MOPAR suckin' air through an 850 CFM Holley and mixin it with 101 octane, aint no sound on Gods Green Earth any sweeter.
Gunner
I'm a Pontiac guy, so I'll argue that....
As far as the sweetest reciprocating engine sound, crossfire's thread on the 'corncob' is about as good as it gets, and you're able to listen to one of the best builders in the country right there in OK- Covington Aircraft Engines Okmulgee. Run a little purple fuel through those big round motors and the smell is as good as the noise.
(note to Mopar guys- I think a 383 or 440 has a rather nice note....)
Back in like 96 I believe, I went to Cool April Nights in Redding, CA, they fired up a 60's Alcohol dragster, believe it was a 392 Hemi with 2 4's and drag pipes, I still remember how awesome that signed!
You guys wouldn't believe how many days you work your rear off for 8 hours straight and .... yeah... someone outside of the project (everybody in the world besides me) isn't going to see anything done.
But I know that I blended the sail panel seams on both sides of the car (quarter to roof skin seam)
Plus I leveled minor low spots on the cowel, drivers door, both quarters, rockers to quarters and I'm almost completely done with the tail light bezel fit which is very tedious.
You bastards are gonna make me finish it aren't you?
Yea, a few of us would like to see some progress on the project. Been wondering where this project was going and if it was ever to be completed. We've been cutting you a lot of slack on it what with the daughter moving out, the new boat, hunting season and working on the hunting camp.
That is orders of magnitude more serious than the ice freaks around here. Are those conversions of sled trailers, or just build on sled-trailer frames? Love the old Tucker. Have fun, Dave.
That is orders of magnitude more serious than the ice freaks around here. Are those conversions of sled trailers, or just build on sled-trailer frames? Love the old Tucker. Have fun, Dave.
Google "Ice Castle fish house"
They are a manufactured fish house built from the ground up with ice fishing in mind.
Built in Nov. of 1950. The original 6 & 3-on-the-tree have been replaced by a 318 chrysler & 727 auto. 30mph at 3000rpm.
Wood body and steel undercarriage. One of the last "woodies" built. C18s is the actual model. 18 passenger school bus was the intended purpose. It now resides in my shop being tinkered on, driving across the frozen tundra of N MN or on LOW as my favorite mode of ice fishing transportation.
ND promised to paint it for me after the tin chicken is done so a little pressure on him will definately put you guys in my good graces.
Pic from the captains chair looking back.
Co-pilot would enjoy fresh paint on his rig as well.
After welding the patch, rolling the rear edge around and plug welding and also welding shut about 12 little screw holes on the wheel opening lip from where previous owners had installed fender moldings from a sport sattelite and some mud flaps.
Yeah it will be fine. I had to take a break from the plymouth to tear the top half of an overhead cam yami dirt bike off for my kid so we could put a new base gasket in.
Now with that buttoned back together... Is it nap time or is it still plymouth fender time? lol
That sounds like an invite to camp out in Dave's front yard this summer and have a Roadrunner party....10, maybe 12 weeks tops, we could have that baby finished...you have RV hookups.?
Got some more good work done today, didn't get any pictures but we cleaned the inner front wheel house areas, outer steering and suspension components got epoxy prime and satin black urethane paint. I welded in some fender nuts that broke loose on dissasembly, not a bad day.
I got my new air smasher yesterday, hooked it up last night. Way better, less than half the pump RPM, lots more air, less amperage draw, and way quieter.
All I've got to show for today is a stack of Walnut lumber-to-be. My shoulders are killing me, so I must have done something but it sure doesn't look like much.
All I've got to show for today is a stack of Walnut lumber-to-be. My shoulders are killing me, so I must have done something but it sure doesn't look like much.
I would have added an L and sanded off all but one bleep, and left one lonely, barely visible bleep, just cuz I am sure that someone has said that [bleep] car....
It was one of those days... Work my azz off, lay on my back in the sanding dust... Arms are just hanging of me. And it doesn't look much different in a picture.
More blocking tomorrow then some primer, then more blocking... lol.
Well I started with the drivers side fender top because I knew it would be an easy panel and I wanted to get a feel for the poly primer with the block before I moved on to something more challenging.
Then onto the passenger (hammer rash) fender.
Here's one of my tricks to keep my paper fresh, as it loads I give a light swipe with a scuff pad across the paper to clean it off.
For those that haven't done it, this is the sort of thing we are straightening out with surfacing primer and sanding blocks. See I have a low area here.
I will work the entire panel (the entire viewed surface) evenly down until I have leveled everything to low spots like this. If it's a more drastic low spot I will just hit it with a light glaze coat of very light 2K body filler. If you try to level an entire panel to too low of a low spot you will expose patches of bare metal, which is actually kind of normal on some panels but you kind of get a feel for what's going to straighten out and what might need a little skim coat of filler.
Here's the same low spot almost gone..
and now it's gone.
Here's a little ding that I didn't catch before priming, this is an example of "too deep" I'll need to hit this with a little bit of glazing filler.
Now for some ugliness, this is the most challenging body area on this whole car, my hammer rash fender, straightened the best I could and skim coated, block sanded (rough) with 80 grit and primed HEAVY with polyester primer. This is what te first few strokes with the board look like, UGLY!
Yeah, just like with body filler, this polyester primer can have a skin on it that clogs your paper fast. Once you get that skin off, it sands nice and clean.
I'll be damned, she's coming around. Maybe we can save this old fender after all.
The key to good blocking is (for me anyways) go slow. I mean your finishing strokes on a panel might be like careful and precise strokes of a file, slow and true, very controlled, just lightly shaving the surface.
I keep a scuff pad within reach as I make my way around a car with the blocks.. What a lot of folks don't understand is that when I say "make my way around the car with the blocks" That doesn't mean you can time me with a stop watch as I make the lap, hour glass wouldn't be the right tool either, try a calendar. That's how much freaking time it takes lol!
But the scuff pad is within reach as is the box/roll of paper and various blocking tools. I wear a very good dust mask and even still I do everything I can to not stir up the dust. I use the air hose very little, it puts all that dust in the air and I don�t like doing that without the exhaust fan running because it gets all over the shop. Even when I�m all done blocking and it�s time to clean up the sanding dust I like to start with a shop vac, then tack rags/wiping cloth and finish with the air hose.
I find that most times what ends the usable life of a piece of sanding paper is if paint/primer balls up clogging the paper so you are riding on gummed up sanding dust rather than the abrasive surface of the paper. For that reason a gentle swipe of the scuff pad works well for cleaning the working face of the paper. I also wipe the sanding dust off the panel I�m working on quite frequently with the scuff pad, this too helps a lot because you are able to make better contact with the panel instead of riding on a bunch of sanding dust.
I�ll be back out there tonight and every night between now and the June show down in Farmington MN.
I sold some of my old shop equipment, thinking about buying a new spray gun I�ve had my eye on for several years. I think this job is important enough to use a really good spray gun on.
That makes sense. I've been doing the work in the "shop" and then all the spraying is done in a seperate, closed off, "booth" with the only way to get a car in there is from the outside, through a different garage door.
I like your idea of the dust control. It will make for a much nicer paint job.
I do clean off the truck whenever I clean off the paper or it gums it up too fast. I probably clean the truck 2-3 times between paper cleaning actually.
Do you guys ever use a recirculating air cleaner? Not something that you would probably use while actually sanding as it does increase air currents but it is great when cleaning up or doing things where a little bit if air movement is not a big problem.
Woodworkers often have these in their shops to improve air quality and I made mine out of an old furnace fan and motor with a series of filters - the last one being a micropore filter.
It makes a hell of a difference when sanding wood work.
Thanks Doc, but that winners bar is out of my reach at this point.
Those guys are on a different level, different types of builds. When they get done they almost need to hire security to guard their cars 24-7 and driving the car is out of the question.
That's fine for the millionaire collector types, but I want to drive my junk lol!
Can�t sing, don�t run very good any more, can't play any musical instruments, can�t spell, can�t surf� I�m not real good with a shotgun at the trap range, I don�t fly a plane, can�t type�
It�s a really big list, and the older I get the bigger the list gets.
Do you guys ever use a recirculating air cleaner? Not something that you would probably use while actually sanding as it does increase air currents but it is great when cleaning up or doing things where a little bit if air movement is not a big problem.
Woodworkers often have these in their shops to improve air quality and I made mine out of an old furnace fan and motor with a series of filters - the last one being a micropore filter.
It makes a hell of a difference when sanding wood work.
Brent
My dad has something similar he made in the shop. He uses furnace filters and fans to suck the dust and fumes out.
tz, I'll bet he has something finer on the system than just furnace filters. Those are the course debris filter. bit there should be a final filter that is much finer.
This is qualitatively the same as what I use. But with a big furnance fan and motor, it really clears the air fast.
Good as I think it is a crappy color. A RR should be one of the following,
1. Black
2. Red
3. Electric Blue.
I recollect a bunch of yellow ones too. The bronze color you tested reminds me of a couple of Super B Six-Packs that were around town.. both owned by the same guy. RIP
Good as I think it is a crappy color. A RR should be one of the following,
1. Black
2. Red
3. Electric Blue.
I recollect a bunch of yellow ones too. The bronze color you tested reminds me of a couple of Super B Six-Packs that were around town.. both owned by the same guy. RIP
I'm glad you are ditching that coppery colored stuff. For once I'm in TLee's camp on that issue.
Electric blue or yellow are the two colors I recall most often. They were pretty distinct for RRs.
Creeping up on 2 months without one, i might just keep going.
Right on bud! I cannot remember the last time I drank a beer. Has to be 10-12 years. Haven't had a sip of whiskey in 7 years. Never had a problem with alcohol, I just feel better without it. I'm WAY more productive now
As much vehicle bodywork you do and as handy as you are you should build yourself one of those car rotisseries. It's no fun welding/sanding rocker panels and floorpan upside down!
edited to add: Do you think you could do a plumcrazy purple and pink mcswirley paint job? (smiley face no work today)
I been walking around with my boots covered in sanding dust for weeks now. Perhaps I can finish the piddly little body details on the main body of the car tonight so I can squirt the next layer of primer and get my next round of blocking (400 grit) finished.
When that is complete, my empty canvas will be ready for the rootbeer sparkles and glossy clear coat.
White vinyl top, I started calling this combo the root beer float a while back.
I've told this many times in this thread but I know it's a gawd awful long thread to sift through so I'll explain again.
I was going to pick my very own color but these cars are coded by a tag on the inner fender. The "fender tag" is sort of special to the mopar guys and I have mine. Not only do I have mine but it decodes correctly with everything the car still has, right down to the factory original engine and transmission (they have the VIN stamped into them)
The car was unique enough being a 4 speed car, N96 (the air grabber hood) sure grip rear end and a white vinyl top. I felt compelled to return it to it's original colors due to the car retaining all it's original components for 44 years.
Very nice Dave. I'm glad your returning it to the "correct" code. Those TV shows that have quick flips on them drive me nuts! They slather enough bondo on the car ( usually right over the rust ) to ice a cake.
Shoot a pretty ( but wrong ) color on 'em and then say they sold it for 10 trillion dollars!
First bump in the road I expect the fenders to fall off in chunks.
You are doing it right, Dave. And if you ever go to sell it, it WILL bring in correct dollars too.
My car is very similar to this charger, both are 69 B-bodies, saddle bronze with manual trans. Very neat car that charger.
I still struggle with the while wheel selection thing for my car. I bounce back and forth between a 5 spoke wheel of some sort or the old jelly bean slotted mags, either of which would be aftermarket period correct for someone dressing up their muscle car back in the day.
I'm going to post the paint formula we decided to go with in case it may be of value to another T7 guy out there.
Here's what we did.
I took my car's driver side door over to my buddy's collision repair shop. He's a jobber for "Metalux" brand of automotive paints and he had a vast collection of metallic color cards. We had the car door outside in the sunlight and we peeled back the factory weather stripping from the inside on the door. This exposed perfectly preserved factory original paint to the sunlight for the first time ever. The paint was not marred or dulled in any way, no adhesive or any other sort of residue, it was perfectly clean, perfectly preserved for our visual color match.
We sorted through hundreds of color cards under many different families of tones etc. From a distance or perhaps from memory, it's likely that any of the hundreds of panels would have been "close enough". But we narrowed it down to a final 5, then 3, then 2, then 1 by viewing at many angles for gauging color flop, many different light conditions including a special light he had for helping in this sort of selection. The color we chose was our very best effort at matching the original single stage factory paint, and we were very thorough.
So, with all that being said.
Our Metalux code for the base is,
Code: EY01080 Variant: Standard Product: Metalux Range: BC Effect
That�s what we�ve got. Perhaps that code can be cross referenced to other product brands.
I�m calling my buddy today and asking him to mix some of this up for me as I�m about ready to start jambing.
I've got an old classmate on FB who's a Mopar and muscle car junkie and he's forever posting pics of sweet muscle from the 60's and 70's. This one looks to be the color you describe as T7
"Brown" hardly does that color justice! Very nice! Not sure i remembered it as an original Mopar color, but then I'm not a died in the wool Mopar guy. Thanks for taking the time to cover some of the old ground buried somewhere deep in this rather short thread.
My brother is a Mopar junkie and has the 1st 440/6 pack Challenger that came off the assembly line. He has a couple others that still needs restored. When Dodge reintroduced the Challengers he was in line and got one of the first years. I'll see if I can't snag a couple pictures to post if folks would like to see.
I've got an old classmate on FB who's a Mopar and muscle car junkie and he's forever posting pics of sweet muscle from the 60's and 70's. This one looks to be the color you describe as T7
That very well could be, the T5 was close to T7 but with more arange/copper tint and a shade lighter overall... this daytona could be T5.
Hard to tell with screen shots and then there is the whole current day likeness effect on these old colors.
Current base/clear takes these old colors to a new level, they actually look nicer than they did when they were brand new.
Originally Posted by Akbob5
"Brown" I'll see if I can't snag a couple pictures to post if folks would like to see.
ahem I believe I called "dibs" and WTF is taking so long, I been sitting out in the driveway for a solid day now!
I thought you'd be here by now. : (
if i'm not there in 30 minutes.... just wait longer.
Dave, just fergit that jabroni. My place is closer. I'll tell randy all about how cool the car is. Besides, you'll need studded tires to get up to him. You don't have studded tires on it, do you?
I'm shoveling the driveway while I wait Mike! Touche!
course the damn snow is falling faster than I can shovel it.
I'm just waiting on a pard to go give me a hand to make a run to the cabin and haul back out my new propane fridge I took in there, damn thing was missing bolts, nuts, screws and had a wire that wasn't connected and will need to be soldered. While I was figuring out what all I'd need for the job, it hit me.
F this, it's brand new, they can give me a new one for it.
I hope Dave don't drop by while I'm gone.
and if he does, I hope and trust he'll wait, the bastage.
But that fancy sports water is just too rich for my blood. I save a lot of money and just drink regular tap water now, same shiner buzz and flavor at a fraction of the price.
But that fancy sports water is just too rich for my blood. I save a lot of money and just drink regular tap water now, same shinerCoor's Light buzz and flavor at a fraction of the price.
But that fancy sports water is just too rich for my blood. I save a lot of money and just drink regular tap water now, same shiner buzz and flavor at a fraction of the price.
Oh my gosh, my booth it filthy right now. The car will come out of the booth for blocking now and maybe I can talk the wimmin foke into cleaning that booth before the car goes back in for color lol!
I had some Wimbledon white left over from a previous project, single stage urethane. I sprayed it on the roof for the color sealing issues I was talking about earlier with the vinyl top.
Going to pick up the base coat, I asked my friend to mix it up for me yesterday so I better go pick it up.
Sorry bout Uncle Dusty. It's never easy, no matter how much warning we're given. Good Uncles are hard to come by...
Progress looks awesome....be easy to throw the Jensen 6"X9"'s in the back with the truck lid and glass removed...
Nah, gotta be Sparkomatic or Kraco all the way.
Real sorry to hear about Uncle Dusty's passing, Dave. I wasn't keeping close tabs on his condition, but whenever you posted some good tidbit in the past regarding him, I was always happy to hear the news.
Oh my gosh, my booth it filthy right now. The car will come out of the booth for blocking now and maybe I can talk the wimmin foke into cleaning that booth before the car goes back in for color lol!
that was just my nice way of bringing your attention to the cleaning that needed to be done.
didn't want to call you out in front of all your friends here.
Sorry to hear about the loss of your uncle, Dave. The Runner is going to be awesome when it's finished. Maybe you could name the Runner "Uncle Dusty" in his honor.
Thanks everybody for the kind words. I'm trying to just stay busy but it's just a really bad weekend, there's no getting away from it.
I did a heap of block sanding and prep on the 2 doors and trunk lid, also rolled the harley out into the sun and cleaned it up. Might be able to ride some this week.
I think I'll head to the shop and spray my final surfacing prime on the doors and trunk lid yet tonight then clean up for a bbq. Just grill a few burgers and cook some beans for Pam and the kids.
My parents had an 8-track for the house. It was HUGE unit about the size of a dresser. I don't know whatever happened to it. One of us 5 kids probably wrecked it somehow.
The car is blocking out perfectly with 400 grit, the body lines are sharp and the body is nice and straight. half way around the main body on this final lap with the blocks.
Show good sense on your part, Dave. There are very few things sweeter than the rumble of a big block Mopar with the Chrysler low restriction or street Hemi mufflers.
wow, I thought all the sanding I did on the Sonnett was a chore. So much before and after shooting it. But my little 'glass car could almost fit in you trunk!
Back in the day" I ran the stock AMs through a Radio Shack tiny FM converters and then added a Lear Quad 8 tracks!
I've been eyeing this gun for years now. The plymouth was special enough to justify it for me. And with the dekups system i can spray upside down, so it's kind of like a CRF M70.
no.. I'm not sure they have figured out how to classify it yet lol. It's kind of a tweener gun, not really conventional and definately not a big air hole HVLP. It just lays the paint down like magic and happens to do so with fantastic efficiency.
I was out in the shop until close to midnight last night, this off white primer is my final blocking layer. I can start blocking that damn thing out when I get home from work today. Then I can get some color going again.
waiting for color and clear. The stuff I sprayed last night is heavy, really heavy. I have a special gun for shooting my heavy surfacing primers. 2.2 gun tip.
Promised I'd upload a couple pictures of my brother's Challengers. Here's his newer one, 2008. First year of the reintroduction. Drives like a dream, looks like a badazz. I'm still waiting for a picture of his 1970.
I bought a chineesee knock off gun when I painted the Sonnett in the garage... another Long story. But the gun wored great after I put real DeVlbiss heads on it. We shot it heavy and a LOT. It meant weeks of color sanding, but it did come out good.
guys, I've come to terms witht he fact that I am not going to make my June 1 deadline for the all mopar show in Farmington MN this year, Rather I am giving myself another week and shooting for a small local show we have on June 8.
The hood, is giving me a tough time, I'm fresh out of the correct materials I need to finish the hood and I need to order these materials.
I'm fine with this, I'd rather not jump straight into a 6 or 7 hour drive as my first trial run for this car.
guys, I've come to terms witht he fact that I am not going to make my June 1 deadline for the all mopar show in Farmington MN this year, Rather I am giving myself another week and shooting for a small local show we have on June 8.
The hood, is giving me a tough time, I'm fresh out of the correct materials I need to finish the hood and I need to order these materials.
I'm fine with this, I'd rather not jump straight into a 6 or 7 hour drive as my first trial run for this car.
I was kind of wondering about that.....seemed rather ambitious.
I was thinking about that, a long drive with fresh paint. Hit a few bugs along the road and all that work suffers greatly. There are a lot of summertime bugs out flying around this time of year.
Yeah, I know paint dries, and clearcoat "protects" but still..................
I noticed the head pipe was cracked at the crossover Y when changing the tire. So I had to remove the entire exhaust system, weld the pipe and put it all back on.
Now, dammit, Randy! I done told ya, I'm on the way! When Dave picks me up I'll text you. We'll have a division of duties - Dave'll drive and I'll drink his beer!
I have a big leak in my compressor ( now down in the house basement , near the loadin bench. Sounds like the drain valve leakin, but I need to lie it down to address it. Always something!
Dave, no matter what happens with this car, 3 months is a much bigger accomplishment. Congrats, buddy. This is gonna cost me big time when you hit the one year aniversary......
waiting for that sealer to dry really good, I have a couple of little nibs I want to block down wet with some fine paper on a pad before I go any further. The body looks great though, lines are crisp, panels straight, door/fender gaps are nice.
It'll get there today, it's just going to be a long day that's all.
Congrats on the quarter year! Keep up the good work. I had a '70 Charger that was Plum Crazy (except for the hood - that was "galvanized" since all of the paint peeled off of it) with a vinyl top. My friend called it "The Purple Pimpmobile".
Yep, I was about to write a post noting how straight the body panels are -- just look at those reflections!
I can't do that sort of thing, but I sure appreciate seeing it done right!
By the way, Dave, are you aware that this thread has received over 743,000 views? Lots here appreciate good work -- or they are living vicariously through you!
Thanks guys, second sealer is now drying, I guess it probably wasn't necessary to seal it twice but it's been a long project and I don't want to risk any fine cross hatch sanding marks showing through from all the blocking. Color is mixed and in the gun, waiting for the sealer to flash off and it's time to return that 44 yr old car to it's original color.
Thanks guys, second sealer is now drying, I guess it probably wasn't necessary to seal it twice but it's been a long project and I don't want to risk any fine cross hatch sanding marks showing through from all the blocking. Color is mixed and in the gun, waiting for the sealer to flash off and it's time to return that 44 yr old car to it's original color.
Hot damn, can't wait for pics of her all painted up.
ND - I've mentioned before how much I've enjoyed these threads, but it bears repeating. I've been checking the thread every few hours to see how you're doing!!
I do actually HAVE a life, but the work you've been doing is really interesting and I'm living vicariously through you! Thanks for sharing it with us!
By the way, Dave, are you aware that this thread has received over 743,000 views? Lots here appreciate the good work -- or they are living vicariously through you!
John
Ain't that the truth, I'm responsible for quite liberality adding to both the view count and the post count, and you are rightI'm one of those appreciating the good work.
Maybe just a titch too many paint fumes there. Better get a breath outside
Mother nature dropped that tree this morning. She isn't done yet. The river flooded the pasture while I was cutting this off and more rain is on the way every day for the rest of the week. It will begin to get interesting now.
Having seen these cars in the showroom, I know fro a fact that they didn't look this good from the factory. If she runs as good as she looks......Oh, my! Great work, Dave!
Actually, it might have been one of those secret flying swamp bears or whatever they are called. Could have migrated down here from Chickenbuck I suppose but I am not qualified to comment. Have to ask Lil' Joe for an authority on the subject.
Awesome paint, Dave! Love that color. I remember my 9th grade English teacher had a Corona painted that color, with a rough-sounding 383 under the hood. Loved that car & color. Teacher was pretty hot, too...
you bring out the best in this place Dave, that boy of yours is gonna have a blast roddin the hail outa that Mopar!
tell him to be careful of girls that wear those fancy jeans with spangles upon them, as you're skinning them while she's laying on the hood it can leave some ugly scratches!
on a serious note, does he take any interest in dad's projects?
It's your car and you did a good job on it,...but *damn!,...a tangerine paint job with a black vinyl top and black leather interior sure woulda been a standout.
yep, those are on my short list in wheel selections. Most of those cragars are made in the US too. I may get a set in the specific drilled pattern, not a fan of uni's.
looks mighty nice. What is the blonde wood and how do you deal with expansion and contraction in different woods and with grain running at 90 degrees in the border, relative to the center. Does the center float?
looks mighty nice. What is the blonde wood and how do you deal with expansion and contraction in different woods and with grain running at 90 degrees in the border, relative to the center. Does the center float?
the wood is walnut and maple,both in the same family,similar expansion. Its all glued up solid. I made one similar,except it has a cherry border about 15-20 years ago,hasnt split yet,we'll see on this one heres the older one
Free walnut is good stuff. I have 6 logs, each 8.5' long sitting out back waiting for the sawyer. Another 3 logs are still standing on the stump. I'm about to be oversupplied. With a little luck, I'll be able to get it kilned for free as a student class project. I've got lots of cherry and I'm about to have lots of walnut. Could be worse. Someone just gave me a good bunch of mesquite too. I've got a ways to go on the skill side though.
Tom, in car lingo, what does "tubbed" mean? I don't speak the language.
Wheel wells are replaced with larger wells in the rear to make room for really big wide drag slick sized tires (tubbed)
Mine is non tubbed. If it was a non numbers rat hole mopar when I found it, rather than a numbers matching rat hole mopar... I woulda done something like that.
Looks great Dave. I don't remember and don't feel like going back to look, but did you have to replace the top?
Yes, that's just white paint on the roof. The new vinyl top is still in the box in the garage.
Originally Posted by northern_dave
I've never done one before, but I aint skeert.
I've glued a lot of things with contact cement and it's not difficult. I've never done a vinyl roof but I wouldn't be afraid of doing it. If you want any tips let me know.
It's your car and you did a good job on it,...but *damn!,...a tangerine paint job with a black vinyl top and black leather interior sure woulda been a standout.
it's not too late to submit change orders!
hell we've had to suffer through this whole danged mess, I'm thinkin we have a right (read entitled, yep Obama taught me that) to request our personal color schemes.
it's NOT FAIR if we don't and I have it on good authority, that's what all of our soldiers have died for
I'm holding out to pick the color of the fuzzy dice from the rearview, after the rest of you pick out a color(s) for the car
Nah!! If going old school I'd go slotted aluminums.
I'm actually considering slots. (seriously)
I have a soft spot for them. It's an association thing for me, like how certain smells are tied to certain memories. I see those slots and it takes me back to the 70�s when I was a kid riding my little pedal bike around and gawking at all the muscle cars rolling around� Slots were pretty popular back in the day.
Prescribe the correct size and backspacing for the car and I think it would look pretty awesome.
But, so would "cop wheels" or a dozen different verieties of the 5 spoke including the cragar SS and torq thrusts.
Ran aluminum slots on the Challenger in the 70's. Liked them with a high polish look. The new ones with a clear coat on them would be easier to keep the mirror finish with.
Just remembering how high they had to jack the rear ends up to fit the n50's on the car.
I have a soft spot for them. It's an association thing for me, like how certain smells are tied to certain memories. I see those slots and it takes me back to the 70�s when I was a kid riding my little pedal bike around and gawking at all the muscle cars rolling around� Slots were pretty popular back in the day.
Nah!! If going old school I'd go slotted aluminums.
I'm actually considering slots. (seriously)
I have a soft spot for them. It's an association thing for me, like how certain smells are tied to certain memories. I see those slots and it takes me back to the 70�s when I was a kid riding my little pedal bike around and gawking at all the muscle cars rolling around� Slots were pretty popular back in the day.
Prescribe the correct size and backspacing for the car and I think it would look pretty awesome.
But, so would "cop wheels" or a dozen different verieties of the 5 spoke including the cragar SS and torq thrusts.
US Mags...I ran a set on a custom Ford in the 70's...cats meow there buddy.
Pretty nice! Do you play a lot of chess and checkers, or are you making these for sale?
What are you using for a finish?
the wife and son like to play chess, we have 4 boards now,two sets of pieces. I basically have a dozen or so walnut boards to make something out of,and the job Im doing now is maple,so I have a small amount of scrap pieces to use somewhere. I used spar urethane for finish. I have this week off from my regular job,getting some other things done,and do this while waiting for glue to dry,etc.
I see them every now and then hanging off various places on P/U's and cars. It just shows the immaturity of the driver and their lacking of the said personal hardware, in other words they have gonad envy.
Knowing Dave he's much more mature than that as it would only cheapen the work he has put in the car, not to mention set a bad example his kids.
I used to raise naugies (and Corinths) way back, during the Chrysler Cordoba years. Yours would have come from a prime caucasia nauga, about 800 pounds.
I used to raise naugies (and Corinths) way back, during the Chrysler Cordoba years. Yours would have come from a prime caucasia nauga, about 800 pounds.
Ah yes, the corinths, prized for their plush leather.
I used to raise naugies (and Corinths) way back, during the Chrysler Cordoba years. Yours would have come from a prime caucasia nauga, about 800 pounds.
Ah yes, the corinths, prized for their plush leather.
Pulled upa pic of the Cragars and was going to post it but ran out of time.
The classic wheel for the era...
Gawddang, those wheels were/are just gorgeous...
You might be too young to remember, ND, but Cragar SS wheels were THE aftermarket wheels for late 60's musclecars in the late 60's. Your slots would look nice, but since you've been so attentive to doing a clean resto on this car, I would hate to see you put 1970's wheels on it...
Refurbed the exhaust manifolds and installed them with new studs, hardware and gaskets, hung the fuel tank, finished the wiring, filled with coolant etc.
Oh, puhleeeze! The Mopar rumble. Sweet music indeed. I'd run my '67 GTX in the left lane on the way to Ft. Monmouth just to hear the sound bouncing off the Jersey barriers.
Refurbed the exhaust manifolds and installed them with new studs, hardware and gaskets, hung the fuel tank, finished the wiring, filled with coolant etc.
I used to raise naugies (and Corinths) way back, during the Chrysler Cordoba years. Yours would have come from a prime caucasia nauga, about 800 pounds.
Ah yes, the corinths, prized for their plush leather.
I don't have a picture of my manifold, but I do have these 340 sixpack carbs for a 1970 AAR Cuda
and another set of them on an STR-14 tunnel ram manifold that came on my 70 Cuda. I never could get the set that came on my Cuda right, so they sit on the shelf attached to the manifold, replaced with a Nyutten 950CFM double pumper on a well ported aluminum M1 manifold.
Wish I could find a new owner for the 340 Carbs to turn into gun money..lol
They were rebuilt, put on an AAR and the judge told him the date code didn't match the build date of the car, and I happily picked them up to try on my STR manifold but never mounted them.
"You can still get a flat tappet with all the cool factor"
What's cool about flat cam lobes? I'll never put another flat tappet cam in any high performance engine. If I was rich I might buy a Nascar flat tappet cam and lifters. The cam is made out of tool steel (about $2000) and the solid lifters cost around $250 each ($4000). I don't know how long the Nascar, cam, lifters and valve springs would last after the first 500 miles.
Flat-tappets still work quite well and can produce nearly as much power if matched to the heads, intake and exhaust properly. The big thing when using flat-tappet cams these days is to buy oil that's made for them. I have a Lunati cam in my GTO (with a Victor intake and Doug's Headers). The twin-engine boat I sold a couple years back had Iskenderian flat-tappets that they ground to my specs.
Fender not sanded and buffed, from the door back has been wet sanded and buffed but I still have to hit it with the final polish. You can see the orange peel in the clear on the fender that hasn't been cut/buffed yet.
Thanks guys, I really do need to get the buffing figured out for this clear though. I'll pick up some stuff tomorrow that should help me get the mirror gloss.
Buffing the sides of an 18' long car, after wet sanding it... will kick a man's ass.
center line of roof and center line of top marked with pencil.
My method, glue and luck.
a narrow strip sprayed down both center lines to place the top correctly and start working outwards. The 2 little cross marks come together to locate front to back, the long line is for side to side.
center line is glued, I worked my way out towards a drip rail about 8" at a time. A band of glue on the roof and on the vinyl.
I wouldn't say it was a super hard thing to do, it just takes some time. It came out really nice. I just have to glue down my material where it tucks into the front and back glass areas and the top will be done.
I purchased that one with my "imminent danger pay" from desert shield/desert storm.
1966 chevy caprice. 327/powerglide, full framed with trailing arm/coils in the rear, it's a sweet ride. All 3 of our kids came home in that car after they were born, it was also our wedding car over 21 yrs ago.
Boots- I would bet that Road Runner would bring a premium, if it were to be sold privately or at auction. It's a numbers-matching car that has its body restored to its factory tag. Not everyone is looking for a rotisserie car these days; drivers being a lot more useful for the dollar. An awful lot of restorations these days are not only nicer than the factory made them in the first place, but they're too nice to drive and enjoy. Dave has this one just right.
Depends on your idea of getting my money out of it.
What my check book contributed to the project and what I contributed to the project are 2 different things. Could I recoup what my checkbook has invested so far? Yes, easily. Checkbook plus my time... I think so, but it becomes a question of how well am I paying myself for my labor.
An hour behind the wheel around town and you'll have gotten your money back and then some... Damn I wish you'd finish that baby and put up a video. I've been sitting quietly waiting but I'm gettin' freakin' impatient.
Depends on your idea of getting my money out of it.
What my check book contributed to the project and what I contributed to the project are 2 different things. Could I recoup what my checkbook has invested so far? Yes, easily. Checkbook plus my time... I think so, but it becomes a question of how well am I paying myself for my labor.
As a friend of mine said after restoring a number of classic cars you never get your money back on a car as how do you figure the cost of the labor you put into it. He said it's a labor of love in the satisfaction you sit back and look at the completed project and hear the kudos's from your peers and well as from complete strangers.
Beings I do EVERYTHING myself, I could actually make a living restoring old cars. The key is to pick the right projects, buy them right and know how far to go with the work and how far not to go with the work.
You don't want to fall short of the mark but you don't want to throw parts and labor beyond what's necessary either, there are no returns on stupid chit like huge stereo systems, air ride, stupid wheels and over the top "custom" graphics. Same goes for any area of the car, be it engine, brakes, trans, suspension... Go far enough, make it nice, make it dependable etc, but don't go nuts in any particular catagory because you won't get that back.
I could go full time with this, I think about it a lot. A whole damn lot.
The fun part is owning them, the work part has been just plain old hard work for me for many years now, not much mystery or excitement left in it for me.
But a guy has to do something for work, and I think I hate restoring cars much less than I hate what I'm doing now so...
The fun part is owning them, the work part has been just plain old hard work for me for many years now, not much mystery or excitement left in it for me.
But a guy has to do something for work, and I think I hate restoring cars much less than I hate what I'm doing now so...
We'll see.
George Bernard Shaw said, "Work is whatever a body is obliged to do, and play whatever he is not obliged to do."
His way of saying that when you turn your hobby into a job, it's just work again. But I have to agree with your reasoning... if you hate the work you're doing now and could replace the income doing something you enjoy doing, that's a strong incentive.
Getting into self-employment just as Obamacare is starting to roll out might be something to consider as well.
You can never make a "good" living restoring cars for people who are concerned with the cost of the restoration...........seen it way too many times......
Getting into self-employment just as Obamacare is starting to roll out might be something to consider as well.
The wife carries the healthcare as her plan is better. So that part is not a concern.
The restoration stuff, with the metal surgery, fabrication, welding, body/paint work etc. I don't know that it's a "hobby" for me, I think of my hobbies as hunting, fishing, shooting and the tinkering part of owning hot rods and classics. I enjoy tinkering and tuning. The all out surgical restoration process... It's not nice work, it's ugly, dirty...
You can never make a "good" living restoring cars for people who are concerned with the cost of the restoration...........seen it way too many times......
Agreed, I would never take work for a customer who's had this old car sitting around for 20 yrs and they want you to "fix it up a little"
I am not interested in doing car projects for customers period, more interested in spec builds and sell them.
You can never make a "good" living restoring cars for people who are concerned with the cost of the restoration...........seen it way too many times......
Agreed, I would never take work for a customer who's had this old car sitting around for 20 yrs and they want you to "fix it up a little"
I am not interested in doing car projects for customers period, more interested in spec builds and sell them.
That is a much better option.....the problem there is finding the right cars to build and buying them at the right price.......however, when you develop a reputation such as Foose, Trepanier etc.......then you will attract clients who want the best and aren't afraid to pay what it costs.......
Bumpers are on, grill and headlights are in. The door latch strikers are in so the doors hold shut now but I am waiting to put the door handles on after I'm done buffing.
Glad to see you're getting near the end of this one, Dave, 'cause I found your next project-a very clean '66 Mustang hardtop, auto, power, power, with a 289.
Glad to see you're getting near the end of this one, Dave, 'cause I found your next project-a very clean '66 Mustang hardtop, auto, power, power, with a 289.
ND's already done a Mustang. Plus, I think he's got a couple-three Ford pick-ups, a cow-pasture Ford sedan, and Pam's red car already in line. Then I've got a '62 yard-art International for him to do "Chickenbuck" style.
Of course he'd have to come to AK to do it. I can't bribe him with beer anymore, but we do have lots of ice, and ND does like his ice fishing.
Yeah, I remember the thread about the Mustang. It was beautiful, that's why I thought this project would be perfect. This car doesn't look to need much except the interior spruced up, a dent in the driver's fender and something sprayed over the hideous beige paint it's wearing right now.
Dave-It looks great!!! Now that you're in the polishing stages, I'd be interested in what you think about this paint system vs. the others you've used. My GTO and '78 Ford F150 projects need to know.. Thanks! Jim
I like the base, not crazy about the sealer and I have missed my window on "easy buffing" for the high solids clear, this clear is a bish to cut and buff.
All metalux brand.
The basecoat is awesome though. And with one overall under my belt I understand how the sealer wants to work and I'd do better next time round with this clear.
thats the clear coat residue from wet sanding and buffing.
Bingo.
It wipes right off with a damp rag but there's no sense in doing so until I put the buffer away, then I'll wash and wipe down the whole car. Until then I just keep the panel that I'm working on clean.
Once again I'm truly impressed with your skills. I don't see any ripples or defects in that pic and I know what it takes to make it that perfect. All of the time you spent block sanding has paid off in spades.
Kudos and congratulations on a fine, fine muscle car.
It's pretty awesome, I can probably answer tomorrow a little better after sleeping in to catch up on rest and going out to check it out all rested and relaxed.
1 Whole Lotta Love Led Zeppelin 2 Proud Mary Creedence Clearwater Revival 3 I Want You Back Jackson 5 4 Honky Tonk Women Rolling Stones 5 Bad Moon Rising Creedence Clearwater Revival 6 Suite: Judy Blue Eyes Crosby, Stills & Nash 7 Dazed And Confused Led Zeppelin 8 Gimme Shelter Rolling Stones 9 Come Together Beatles 10 I Can't Get Next To You Temptations 11 Fortunate Son Creedence Clearwater Revival 12 Pinball Wizard The Who 13 Heartbreaker/Living Loving Maid Led Zeppelin 14 Evil Ways Santana 15 Thank You Sly & the Family Stone 16 It's Your Thing Isley Brothers 17 You Can't Always Get What You Want Rolling Stones 18 Space Oddity David Bowie 19 My Way Frank Sinatra 20 Sweet Caroline Neil Diamond 21 Something Beatles 22 Hot Fun In The Summertime Sly & the Family Stone 23 Suspicious Minds Elvis Presley 24 Get Back Beatles 25 Green River Creedence Clearwater Revival
hey Mikey, I saw Dave first! Find your own automotive artist wouldja? Sheesh!
and TLee, my guess is what he's gonna do next is enjoy the fruits of his labor.
maybe when he catches his wind, he'll do the P90x gig so he'll look the part crawling outa that badazz car. He's layed off the beer already, so clean up the diet a lil, hit the floor for the exercises, but I'm thinkin Mrs. N. Dave will handle the buffing on that project. (grin)
Oh it's not a competition thing, it's our local show and I am one of the guys that helps put on the show. There's around a half dozen of us that put this show on, we all bring our stuff but just for fun, we exclude ourselves from any competition or judging. Our stuff is just there for fun.
1 Whole Lotta Love Led Zeppelin 2 Proud Mary Creedence Clearwater Revival 3 I Want You Back Jackson 5 4 Honky Tonk Women Rolling Stones 5 Bad Moon Rising Creedence Clearwater Revival 6 Suite: Judy Blue Eyes Crosby, Stills & Nash 7 Dazed And Confused Led Zeppelin 8 Gimme Shelter Rolling Stones 9 Come Together Beatles 10 I Can't Get Next To You Temptations 11 Fortunate Son Creedence Clearwater Revival 12 Pinball Wizard The Who 13 Heartbreaker/Living Loving Maid Led Zeppelin 14 Evil Ways Santana 15 Thank You Sly & the Family Stone 16 It's Your Thing Isley Brothers 17 You Can't Always Get What You Want Rolling Stones 18 Space Oddity David Bowie 19 My Way Frank Sinatra 20 Sweet Caroline Neil Diamond 21 Something Beatles 22 Hot Fun In The Summertime Sly & the Family Stone 23 Suspicious Minds Elvis Presley 24 Get Back Beatles 25 Green River Creedence Clearwater Revival
And he left the keys in it so we transfered the rubber from the rear tires to the rear fenders. I'm trying to upload the video!
I only parked next to ND because if anyone was gonna put a door ding in it it was gonna be me.
It won't be a car door that does it.
It will be the fat kid consumed with eating his snow cone, that trips over his own feet and does a silver medal worthy header right into the middle of the drivers door...
I know That why I dont have any manual trans vehicles any more I always forgot to let off the gas when shifting. Try a power shift in a dodge cummins under full boost. Stuff breaks badly.
If you're quick enough shifting without letting your foot up ...
Schit doesn't break, IMO.
Hey Dave,
What's the carbon footprint on that bad boy?
I am sure Dave is working on his own wind turbine to offset the carbon emissions, or the break from beer is more than enough less methane in the air to make it a wash....
I know That why I don't have any manual trans vehicles any more I always forgot to let off the gas when shifting. Try a power shift in a dodge Cummins under full boost. Stuff breaks badly.
When driving OTR never used clutch when shifting after I got the rig moving either on the up or down shift, although I did grenade a clutch on a KW with a 318 Jimmy with a main and a brownie one time. It wasn't my fault, it was a new clutch taking out everything from the engine back, I hadn't changed gears for fifty miles, and I was empty dead heading to Ronan, MT to pick up a load of cattle.
Congratulations, Dave. Loved the motor music video. Looks kinda damp your way, tho. I heard the skeeters finally thawed out three or four days ago. Same here.
Congratulations, Dave. Loved the motor music video. Looks kinda damp your way, tho. I heard the skeeters finally thawed out three or four days ago. Same here.
oh wow the skeeters are ridiculous, they about carried us away last night.
Originally Posted by pixarezzo
Originally Posted by fish head
But with these rims...
hey that's some nice photo work! Now I don't have to guess what those wheels would look like on there.
Youtube "flagged" the music in it when I posted it, so they might yank it somewhere down the road.
Until then, enjoy...
Ah, well then everybody should download it to their own hard disk so they can watch it whenever they want (regardless of what YouTube may later decide).
If you use Firefox, go to Tools, then Add Ons, then type DownloadHelper (all one word). Install it, restart Firefox then look for the little animated icon when you are watching any video. Click that little animated triangle, and you will be prompted for what resolution you wish to save, and you can save it to disk. I have lots of hard disk space, so I always take the highest resolution.
If you choose .flv format (which is fine) you may not have a video player that can handle this format. If so, go to FileDownloader -- just get the free version.
Now, you will be able to save (nearly) any video to your own hard disk, and watch it even if YouTube takes it down.
I have already saved the video to my hard disk. It is nicely done!
Of course, northern_dave in particular should download it and keep it for when he is too old and decrepit to perform such magical feats and can watch it again remind him of his superhuman days.
+1 on the great video, it really puts the build in it's proper prospective. It was also a stroke of genius including the photos of Dave's kids in the collage of photos.
Awe, it would be more for fellow car enthusiasts and spectators.
I don't care about judges, lol.
I'm 100% social mingler and visit/discuss/BS kind of guy at these shows, 0% competitive.
Laugh and joke, tell stories, listen to stories, learn how other people went about their projects and answer questions about mine.
I have zero interest in the whole trophy and awards stuff.
If that's the case, bring a player and that magnificent video to the Maynard St. Burger King in Williamsport on the first Saturday of July, August, September, or October. Helluva good drive in those nights, righteous rides, no judging, and great socializing. That car would garner major attention.
Awe, it would be more for fellow car enthusiasts and spectators.
I don't care about judges, lol.
I'm 100% social mingler and visit/discuss/BS kind of guy at these shows, 0% competitive.
Laugh and joke, tell stories, listen to stories, learn how other people went about their projects and answer questions about mine.
I have zero interest in the whole trophy and awards stuff.
Somehow Dave, I think we'd get along perfectly! I like your perspective. I've got a fairly built 87 Fox-body Mustang that some have tried to get me to enter in shows and I have no interest whatsoever.
I've been driving the "root beer float" as much as I can lately, today I took the bike to work though. Might have to clean the car tonight after work though. It's got some dust on it.
I'm trying to find an email addy for my cousin , a couple three decades ago he played around redoing a couple Dusters . I think he might enjoy the vid if it is ok to share with strangers north of our border that is .
I'm trying to find an email addy for my cousin , a couple three decades ago he played around redoing a couple Dusters . I think he might enjoy the vid if it is ok to share with strangers north of our border that is .
No problem.
Originally Posted by kamo_gari
Originally Posted by northern_dave
Shameless...
Badassed is a better word. Your talent/skill is amazing. Well done, and thanks for sharing with us. Big fun.
Thank you. I carted the fam up to the local drive in burger/ice cram stop with car hop window tray service, fun stuff. Parked next to a 65 ragtop mustang I didn't know we had in the area, nice couple. They went to leave and "click-grrrr" needed a jump. So the 2 hoods went up, we strung the cables and the red pony car was off into the sunset. (After the lady tried to slip me five bucks for the jump... "Oh gosh no put that away, have a nice night, hope we see you around."
Then we took off out of town to a farm area where my oldest boy is working fields with a tractor. We got there just in time to see the 3 tractors file in line and crawl out onto the pavement to head for the next job site up the road. Of course we had to do a couple of drive byes and give each tractor the "meep-meep" horn as we passed, everybody waving to the farmers who of course recognized the car and the fam. Then we kicked it down and rolled along home.
Did you get the rear-end aligned yet. It's terrible how much faster the rear tires are wearing than the fronts!
I have still not solved that issue. 2nd gear in particular was very tough on the back tires on this little run. You can hear where I lifted to try and hook up before hitting 3rd, at that point I was like "awe hellz, that sucked bad".
The original owner of this car.... has been looking for this car.
The second owner of the car got in contact with me yesterday (after lots of leg work).
He was the second owner, it was his first car (he got the car slightly used in around 72).
The original owner contacted him and the search ran forward from there. I got a lot of history on the car during our conversation yesterday, and I expect a call from the original owner soon.
It was his first car as well, he was the first owner, and it was his first car.....
And I have it, 45 years later, in restored condition.
It was very cool, Iowa car. Lots of drag racing at a little 8th mile strip I guess, the white paint job was out of necessity to disguise the car after a wild night of shenanigans. It was an overnight color change, an honest to god "we need this car to be a different color before the sun comes up" story.
The murals came later on, eventually the car went into storage, it basically slept through the 80's entirely.
Miles are supposedly actual.
Can you imagine? Your first car? You track it down after 45 years.
Amazing that it's still here, not crushed and recycled into a honda civic...
It's still here, and it's back to it's original color... still has original engine, trans, everything.
With all the sentimental attachments and your restoration work that's a pretty valuable ride! Heck, with no sentimental attachments that's still pretty valuable.
You thinking he may want it back??
It just seems he's gone to a lot of effort after all this time to find it again.
It was very cool, Iowa car. Lots of drag racing at a little 8th mile strip I guess, the white paint job was out of necessity to disguise the car after a wild night of shenanigans. It was an overnight color change, an honest to god "we need this car to be a different color before the sun comes up" story.
The original owner of this car.... has been looking for this car.
The second owner of the car got in contact with me yesterday (after lots of leg work).
He was the second owner, it was his first car (he got the car slightly used in around 72).
The original owner contacted him and the search ran forward from there. I got a lot of history on the car during our conversation yesterday, and I expect a call from the original owner soon.
It was his first car as well, he was the first owner, and it was his first car.....
And I have it, 45 years later, in restored condition.
![[Linked Image]](http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e364/northerndave/101_4214.jpg)
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You'll have dogs barkin, kids cryin', wimmin hiding.... I think I want one.
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hauled nearly 2 tons of chit out of there on Sunday, spent tonight masking chit off getting ready for paint......but will she give me time to re paint my CJ? 
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