Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Hunter's Campfire 1969 Roadrunner revival

Damn, the LH outer wheel house was kicking my butt tonight. I basically lined it up inside the cut original and traced out the pattern to cut the new one. I cut the new one and tacked it into place. One problem, it measured about a half an inch low for the quarter panel fit up. It had to come up, but when I moved it up it didn't fit up top anymore to the original wheelhouse.



So I had to make some slices to bring the new wheel house down and inward to intersect with the remaining original wheel house.

It did work out in the end.







And a test fit of the quarter skin was perfect.





If I had simply lined up the alignment tab holes, welded and hoped for the best I would have been screwed when I went to hang the quarter skin.

They might be. I'm not sure though. I think this is the pair here.

I wish I had 1/2 the knowledge you do for this stuff. It looks great.

You really have to take lots of measurements, especially with the repro stuff. I do think I have the best repro parts available, I got all AMD stuff and it's chrysler certified... It's just not always exactly like the original stuff. So when You try to splice half a repro wheel house to an original... Well sometimes it just takes a little longer to het it right.

Ah, nice!

You have to get those Traction bars off the leaf springs.....


Dang Chevy guy's don't understand Mopar leaf springs are set up long on the rear half and short on the front, making traction bars a useless addition. Stock springs and a pinion snubber....

Hoping they came on the car....


Looking good on the sheetmetal

Allen

I'm unimpressed with the Joe dirt traction bars. (and good god yes they came on the car) probably been on there for decades.



I'm looking at a couple of different adjustable pinion snubbers.

I really like the mancini racing snubber.

I need the snubber pad too though, to weld to the bottom side of the floor under the back seat.

Why short headers? Longtubes brother!

Fixed it for you. 1/4 inch here, a 1/2 inch there . . . screw that! I finally found new old stock Ford sheet metal for my 1965 Mustang. Costs 10X the Chicom stuff, but fits like it was made for it.

that's one big piece of metal.
Job well done!

Is the Mancini the large threaded shank fully adjustable? Looks cool, whatever brand, but I think the adjustable MP one is good, I believe leave 1/2" gap tip to floor. I thought they all had the floor braced for the contact point.


And do NOT go TTI headers, mine in the 440 are a PITA tight fit. I put a TA 3800 stall converter and need to loosen it, need to drop the headers to get the converter out.....


Son is taking the Cuda down tomorrow to drop the 2 chamber flows for single chambers off the old racecar.... Me thinks he'll regret the police stops..lol


I'll have to do a video and try and post it,

Allen

If you're refering to the one's I posted, those are on a 1964 Merc Marauder, my Dad owns. He bought a set of long tube, and they hung too far below the car to be practical where he drives.

Allen, yes I was talking about the threaded snubber. I like it because you can really fine tune that contact spacing.

As far as the contact brace, I was going to slide under there last night and have a look but I don't recall seeing one under there before. I have the stamped steel "paw" that reaches forward over the pinion yoke with the factory snubber which is far out of reach from the bottom side of the floor. But I don't remember seeing anything structural above it on the floor, I'm thinking I need to buy the correct pad and weld it in there.

I don't know for sure but I was thinking it was a hemi car thing from the factory?

pretty sure all b body's had it .

You truly are gifted Dave!

I'll take a look tonight.



Fixed it. lol!

Ding fries are done!!

I totally agree with that statement.

Good advice on the ladder bars, Mopars shouldn't use them. If you are having serious traction problems (like with slicks), there is a different setup for Mopars but it escapes me.

Anyway, on the exhaust, you could consider keeping those Magnum manifolds and have them Extrude-honed, and then coated on the INSIDE. It'll keep them looking stock, but flow better and provide better heat control.

The only way I'd spend that money on cast manifolds was if something in a rule book forced me to use them.