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So I got a Mosin. Well, GopherGunner got me a Mosin. I've already got a Mauser, not to mention my Mauser-based hunting rifle, and I want to toy around with 'smithing projects. So far, I shortened the forend (though I may actually further shorten it), removed the barrel bands and upper handguard, and free-floated the barrel channel.

So, firstly, the plan.

- Pillar bed the action with Rock Solid pillars
- Glass bed the barrel channel and action
- Inlet stock and install Timney trigger
- Install a short section of picatinny rail for mounting a sling swivel and bipod
- Drill and tap for Rock Solid scope mount
- Install adjustable cheek piece
- Install rubber recoil pad; possibly shorten stock
- Refinish the stock once this all is done
- Smooth out the crown
- Possibly DuraCoat the metal parts if they get dinged up enough. Don't worry, it'd be black!

I'll also obviously need the bolt chopped and flopped. I'm gonna contact local gunsmiths since I don't have the tools to do this (at least with the quality I desire), but it might end up being cheaper to buy a bent bolt handle/body online. I'd also prefer to get the drilling/tapping done by a smith, unless it's expensive... Are there any good kits for such a thing? I apologize for my inexperience.

The rest of the process seems relatively easy, if not time-consuming. Anything I need to be especially wary of when bedding?

That begs the question "why on earth are you investing all that time and money in a Mosin-Nagant"? When the project is all said and done, what you will have is, well, a Mosin-Nagant.

As an exercise in mastering gun making skills it's a good choice. If you screw something up, you're not out anything. I wouldn't spend a lot of money on incidental stuff for it either. An $80 Mosin with $200 worth of add-ons is still an $80 Mosin.

Another thing to consider is collect-ability. Some M-N's offer collector value far above shooter value. One example would be those made by American contractors for the Tsarist government, especially if in nice condition. There are other models too that fit that category- it would pay to do a little research before arming yourself with a hacksaw and rasps.

I have to agree with gnoahhh here.

Great rifle to learn things on but otherwise not so good.

At least with a beater Mauser action you have the basis for what could be a very fine rifle if done right.

I've already got a Mauser that I don't want to mess up. And, I was putting rounds on top of each other with the Mosin, so I have no problem putting a little money into it with that as the base accuracy.

It's a round '43 Tula with no striking characteristics, either.

In this picture I made 8 or 10 years ago, you can see I used brass pillars. Don't to that. It makes for dissimilar metals. Don't do stainless either. Some stainless hardens when being cut. Use 1010 steel 3/8" tubing the part number from MSC is in the following drawing.





In this pic you see the relief cut I have made in the rear pillar to clearance for the Timney trigger.

Alternatively, you might bend the sear spring to reduce the pull force on the trigger. That will not get the force as low as the Timney and it will not get you a usable safety, but it will save you $100. There are many videos and posts about how to polish parts in the Mosin Nagant trigger. This is almost all a waste of time. Here is a video where I show how to bend the sear spring and maintain sear to cocking piece engagement.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DPn8IdNJ_SE



In this drawing you can see that I made an extra hole in the ATI mount. [for those who can pull off a barrel]
ATI bolt modification kits and ATI stocks may be no good.
But the ATI scope mount for the Mosin Nagant is surprisingly good, and much cheaper than the Rock Solid mount.

Later manufacture ATI mounts have a different coating, and can clear the max dimensions for standard 10-32 cap screws.

You may find ratings for 10-32 screws to take torque from 23 to 68 inch pounds.
Don't do that in this application, and the steel is only .1" thick. I have calculated and verified in .1" thick steel, and back off a 30% safety margin.
Don't go past 20 inch pounds dry or oiled.
Half that with wax on the thread, so don't put wax on the threads.