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Found this and I'm still scratching my head on the benefit. I have to be honest I've not heard of this before I found the article. Anyone here anneal bullets and if so have you noticed any difference in bullet performance?
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Campfire Ranger
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I'm sure the tip would be gone well before anything measurable was actually accomplished.
Sometimes, the air you 'let in'matters less than the air you 'let out'.
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Campfire Oracle
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Let me know when they start annealing powder, that would be a fun video.
"Dear Lord, save me from Your followers"
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do they have long winters in New Zealand?
Ride well, shoot straight, and speak the truth.
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Campfire Ranger
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No idea, but I would like to know the melting point of the poly tip and annealing point of the jacket...it would be interesting to see if he is achieving any change.
As to benefit...why?
And from memory copper and such need to be dunked for rapid cooling to anneal, same as brass.
Last edited by JSTUART; 12/11/13.
These are my opinions, feel free to disagree.
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Campfire Ranger
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I thought it would be a solid like barnes...
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Campfire Ranger
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Never used one, but either way I would be surprised if there was any change from a candle in such a short time.
These are my opinions, feel free to disagree.
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Campfire Regular
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Brass does not have to be dunked during the annealing process.Rick.
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Campfire Ranger
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Let me know when they start annealing powder, that would be a fun video. That, and forging primers.  No idea, but I would like to know the melting point of the poly tip and annealing point of the jacket...it would be interesting to see if he is achieving any change.
As to benefit...why?
And from memory copper and such need to be dunked for rapid cooling to anneal, same as brass. The polymer would certainly benefit from hardening due to quenching,  but copper alloys aren't affected either way, other than that quenching stops the movement of heat within the object due to conduction. That video just goes to show that confidence in one's equipment must have some measurable effects, assuming he can actually measure anything favorable with the bullets he's played with, because nothing he shows adds anything beneficial in terms of consistency (or meaning, as far as I can tell.)
Sometimes, the air you 'let in'matters less than the air you 'let out'.
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Campfire Tracker
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It keeps him out of the kitchen.....
BT53
"Where do they find young men like this?" Reporter Savidge, Iraq
Elk, it's what's for dinner....
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Campfire Ranger
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Brass does not have to be dunked during the annealing process.Rick. Take your word for it, I dunk mine.
These are my opinions, feel free to disagree.
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Campfire Ranger
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Let me know when they start annealing powder, that would be a fun video. That, and forging primers. No idea, but I would like to know the melting point of the poly tip and annealing point of the jacket...it would be interesting to see if he is achieving any change.
As to benefit...why?
And from memory copper and such need to be dunked for rapid cooling to anneal, same as brass. The polymer would certainly benefit from hardening due to quenching, but copper alloys aren't affected either way, other than that quenching stops the movement of heat within the object due to conduction. That video just goes to show that confidence in one's equipment must have some measurable effects, assuming he can actually measure anything favorable with the bullets he's played with, because nothing he shows adds anything beneficial in terms of consistency (or meaning, as far as I can tell.) It doesn't really inspire confidence in the rest of his site. Added...with any luck he will log in and explain it all.
Last edited by JSTUART; 12/11/13.
These are my opinions, feel free to disagree.
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Campfire Tracker
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It never fails to amaze me when gun types think they can improve on products that were developed and tested by experienced engineers. It really amazes me when they think they can do it with household tools, chemicals, and candles.
molɔ̀ːn labé skýla
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Brass does not have to be dunked during the annealing process.Rick I agree completely with that. Mine go into a bucket of water, however, just to speed up the entire process. No deformation when I simply drop them in a bucket of water. I don't think I'll worry about the slugs though.
1Minute
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Bullets are pretty hot when they exit the muzzle. It's hard for me to believe that heat treating the lead before use will make any actual difference.
Dunking brass after annealing keeps the annealing from going too far toward the case head.
Be not weary in well doing.
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Bullets are pretty hot when they exit the muzzle. It's hard for me to believe that heat treating the lead before use will make any actual difference.
Dunking brass after annealing keeps the annealing from going too far toward the case head. Plenty of sources indicate you do not need to quench your brass. If one is worried about the case head, you are most certainly over heating your brass from the get go...
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Campfire Kahuna
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unless, of course, you're annealing pretty short brass.
But no, unlike most other metals, copper and brass don't have to be quenched to anneal.
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John Steinbeck
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I have heard lots of folks say the necks should be red when annealing but that always seemed too hot to me. What are your thoughts?
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Campfire Ranger
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If the neck glows red it's too soft and you should toss the brass.
Discolor blue is what your looking for around 725 or so.
Do a google search on annealing lots of good posts out there
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I have heard lots of folks say the necks should be red when annealing but that always seemed too hot to me. What are your thoughts? An "ad nauseam" topic on here with opinions that are all over the place.... I find for my needs the candle method works perfectly. I don't very large batches so I don't mind a little extra time. I have never had a brass issue or cracked necks as a result of this technique. Next. I will try the "candle" method with a torch and see If I get similar results without having to clean off the carbon. YMMV
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