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Those pics look like perfect evidence that the smith tried to screw it back in.
Front of the barrel threads and front of the receiver are buggered up. IF the barrel had been screwed in crossed the first time, the threads would be buggered all the way to the bottom. They are not. Bottom of the receiver and the bottom of the barrel are good to go. If the threads at the front of the barrel were buggered from an over pressure bulge or some misuse, the receiver threads would be fugged all the way out.
I think the pictures prove exactly why Ruger said go pound sand.
Sean
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Well, from what I've read here and elsewhere I'm going to chalk this one up. I thought I'd add a second 7x57 to my M70 but may look elsewhere. If you pass you may well be missing an opportunity to get a great rifle. My safe is full of Ruger M77 and MKII rifles - most purchased used � and there is not a bad one in the bunch. None have had anything done to them except float the barrel and tune the triggers, both of which are fairly easy tasks. Worst case, if you are not comfortable working on a trigger, there are aftermarket triggers available. As to accuracy: 1982 Ruger M77, 7mm RM Shot in 40+mph crosswinds, gusts to 60mph, 100 yards. 1984 Ruger M77, .30-06 2-shot scope check @ 100 1989 Ruger M77, .257 Roberts 3 shots @ 100 yards � the photo says it all. 2003 Ruger MKII, .300WM 1st shot was from a clean/oiled bore. 100 yards. 1994 Ruger MKII action, Ruger factory barrel (Thank you, Bear Paw Jack!) 3 shots @ 100 yards. What you get with a Ruger M77 or MKII is a very rugged, reliable rifle. The triggers clean up easily or can be replaced. (I�ve net needed to replace any.) Float the barrel and tighten the screws properly and you should be good to go. As to barrels, Ruger got a bad reputation when they were using barrels manufactured outside. (1970�s ?) Ruger long ago switched to in-house manufacture using hammer-forged barrels. See targets above� The bolt and handle are one piece, no need to worry if the handle will come off as it can with a brazed-on handle. The scope mounting system is one of the strongest available � no itty-bitty mounting screws to break. (A mule and a log conspired to break two of my ribs after I landed on my M77. It still shot fine.) Finally, Ruger has great service. I purchased a used Blackhawk .357 Mag and had it sent in for repairs (bent basepin replacement). No charge for the repair or return shipping. More recently I purchased a new MKII in .300WM. There were handling marks in the bluing and minor scratches in the wood because it was a display rifle at Dick�s. Ruger reblued the barrel and, to my surprise and without being asked, replaced the stock with their �African� stock (a definite upgrade). Again, no charge for the repairs/upgrade or return shipping. I fully expect that my Ruger rifles will outlast me by many years. My 7mm RM, manufactured in 1982, shot a 3-shot .262� group with North Fork bullets back in the 2002-2003 time frame. Not bad for a rifle that had been my only big game bolt rifle for 20 years and had gone elk and deer hunting all but one or two of those years. Any time I find a good used Ruger at a good price I have a really hard time walking away. You expect us to believe the Ruger 77's shoot like that?? You know why women aren't good at math? It's because we keep telling them 'this' is 12 inches. At 5 yards I'm lucky the powder burns on the targets don't show in the photos!
Coyote Hunter - NRA Patriot Life, NRA Whittington Center Life, GOA, DAD - and I VOTE!
No, I'm not a Ruger bigot - just an unabashed fan of their revolvers, M77's and #1's.
A good .30-06 is a 99% solution.
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Those pics look like perfect evidence that the smith tried to screw it back in.
Front of the barrel threads and front of the receiver are buggered up. IF the barrel had been screwed in crossed the first time, the threads would be buggered all the way to the bottom. They are not. Bottom of the receiver and the bottom of the barrel are good to go. If the threads at the front of the barrel were buggered from an over pressure bulge or some misuse, the receiver threads would be fugged all the way out.
I think the pictures prove exactly why Ruger said go pound sand. Dumbass, The Receiver threads are deeper than the threads on the barrel. Barrel threads do not take up all the threads in the receiver, same on most actions. There was no misuse. The last 3 threads on the barrel tenon screwed into a section of the action that that had all the threads stripped from the large "bugger" on the start of the barrel's thread. You guys forgot that they filled the threads full of epoxy, the epoxy ran down in the front guard screw. The front guard screw had to be drilled out and then removed with an eezy out...more piss poor workmanship.
Last edited by keith; 06/25/14.
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Those pics look like perfect evidence that the smith tried to screw it back in.
Front of the barrel threads and front of the receiver are buggered up. IF the barrel had been screwed in crossed the first time, the threads would be buggered all the way to the bottom. They are not. Bottom of the receiver and the bottom of the barrel are good to go. If the threads at the front of the barrel were buggered from an over pressure bulge or some misuse, the receiver threads would be fugged all the way out.
I think the pictures prove exactly why Ruger said go pound sand. Dumbass, The Receiver threads are deeper than the threads on the barrel. Barrel threads do not take up all the threads in the receiver, same on most actions. There was no misuse. Dumbass, he pointed out the other obvious hole in your fairy tale.
I have come here to chew bubblegum and kick ass. And I'm all out of bubblegum. I do tend to fit in well wherever I go in person. The campfire is the most outside exposure I get. No TV, no newspaper.
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Bricktop, time to go take a pill.
Last edited by keith; 06/25/14.
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If that is not from some body trying to screw it back in, then it is from a poor beding job that hydraulically pushed epoxy into the receiver threads. (after it left Ruger ) IF Ruger had put it together like that, with epoxy after they cross threaded it, they would have to of pulled it, applied epoxy, and screwed it back in again. At that point it is junk and would be thrown into a bin.
What sounds more likely to any reasonable person?
Sean
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Folks have trouble reading....front guard screw could not be removed due to epoxy in the front guard screw hole in the action straight from Ruger. Front guard screw was epoxied in solid, and the stock could not be removed from the action.
Front guard screw had to be drilled out and removed with an eezy out prior the action being able to be pulled from the stock.
After checking with more custom gunsmiths that do benchrest and long range rifles, you will hear comments like, "Don't use Ruger actions for a custom Re-barrel". However, I have used two blued Ruger 77 Tang safety actions with no issues for custom Hart barrels to be installed.
After talking with several custom gunsmith on this project, what probably happened relates to the assembly process. Either the action is turned onto the barrel with power or vise a versa. The leading edge of both of the thread starts came into contact with each other and something had to give. The power of the machine just simply crammed the two together. No human could have screwed these two parts together, the process had to be accomplished under power with the other part held in a jig fixture.
With all the wonderful customer service that I personally have had over the years from Ruger, it is a shame to have a black eye like this...$1000 is a big hit to take.
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Are you the smith or work for the smith who did this rifle? Inquiring minds and all. You are taking this very personal.
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Whatever....I'd take another 77 in 7x57, to go with my 80s vintage 7x57, in a heartbeat. It shoots.
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MagMarc, I am not the smith that did the work. Having a Stainless Laminated 6.5 creedmore turn to scrap is hard to take.
I have been shooting Ruger rifles since 1984, barrel's back then were hit and miss, not like today's Ruger Barrels of such higher quality.
Bottom line for me is that most of my rifles are or become switch barrel rigs. Any factory barrel that gets shot out or has poor accuracy, gets a custom barrel installed, so one action may serve as a platform for several calibers. Barrels are very easy to change out. From my stand point, I am questioning even returning my 77's to the factory that are close to having the throats shot out for a Ruger Re-barrel. Using the Rugers as platforms for future builds is definitely a NO NO at this point...I don't feel like taking a chance...
In the late 80's I had a Hart SS Match barrels installed in 308 and 243 on a ruger 77 tang safety, both barrels shot little bitty tiny groups. Then I had a 22/250 AI and 243 AI installed on another Ruger 77 tang safety, both of these switch barrel rifles were in McMillen Stocks. Both of these two custom switch barrel rigs shot every bit as good as my Remington 700 customs.
I like the claw extractor and the solid bolt on the Rugers. Angled bolt lug never bothered me on bedding Rugers. Solid metal floor plates on Rugers are a shore nuff plus. I learned to hone the Ruger triggers down to my likes long time ago.
Time to move on, sorry for the rant.
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MagMarc, I am not the smith that did the work. Having a Stainless Laminated 6.5 creedmore turn to scrap is hard to take.
I have been shooting Ruger rifles since 1984, barrel's back then were hit and miss, not like today's Ruger Barrels of such higher quality.
Bottom line for me is that most of my rifles are or become switch barrel rigs. Any factory barrel that gets shot out or has poor accuracy, gets a custom barrel installed, so one action may serve as a platform for several calibers. Barrels are very easy to change out. From my stand point, I am questioning even returning my 77's to the factory that are close to having the throats shot out for a Ruger Re-barrel. Using the Rugers as platforms for future builds is definitely a NO NO at this point...I don't feel like taking a chance...
In the late 80's I had a Hart SS Match barrels installed in 308 and 243 on a ruger 77 tang safety, both barrels shot little bitty tiny groups. Then I had a 22/250 AI and 243 AI installed on another Ruger 77 tang safety, both of these switch barrel rifles were in McMillen Stocks. Both of these two custom switch barrel rigs shot every bit as good as my Remington 700 customs.
I like the claw extractor and the solid bolt on the Rugers. Angled bolt lug never bothered me on bedding Rugers. Solid metal floor plates on Rugers are a shore nuff plus. I learned to hone the Ruger triggers down to my likes long time ago.
Time to move on, sorry for the rant. "Sorry for the rant?" Just how stupid ARE you? You keep posting this dickhead fairy tale and you haven't posted any work order or anything that could even pass as proof. Your ass was busted a long time ago. You should've given it up as soon as you were called out, moron. You keep digging a deeper hole.
I have come here to chew bubblegum and kick ass. And I'm all out of bubblegum. I do tend to fit in well wherever I go in person. The campfire is the most outside exposure I get. No TV, no newspaper.
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Folks have trouble reading....front guard screw could not be removed due to epoxy in the front guard screw hole in the action straight from Ruger. Front guard screw was epoxied in solid, and the stock could not be removed from the action.
Front guard screw had to be drilled out and removed with an eezy out prior the action being able to be pulled from the stock.
After checking with more custom gunsmiths that do benchrest and long range rifles, you will hear comments like, "Don't use Ruger actions for a custom Re-barrel". However, I have used two blued Ruger 77 Tang safety actions with no issues for custom Hart barrels to be installed.
After talking with several custom gunsmith on this project, what probably happened relates to the assembly process. Either the action is turned onto the barrel with power or vise a versa. The leading edge of both of the thread starts came into contact with each other and something had to give. The power of the machine just simply crammed the two together. No human could have screwed these two parts together, the process had to be accomplished under power with the other part held in a jig fixture.
With all the wonderful customer service that I personally have had over the years from Ruger, it is a shame to have a black eye like this...$1000 is a big hit to take. Cough up that Ruger work order, dicknose.
I have come here to chew bubblegum and kick ass. And I'm all out of bubblegum. I do tend to fit in well wherever I go in person. The campfire is the most outside exposure I get. No TV, no newspaper.
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I have got a call into Bob Davis, I don't expect much...hope I am surprised. The gunsmith already has had multiple conversations to no avail.
When the Warranty states that you alter the gun, there is no Warranty, even if Ruger has faulty QC when it was assembled. I have now accepted the fact that my Rugers should not be the base for future custom builds, nor should I send back some of my well shot out Rugers for a factory Re-barrel. Every gunsmith I have used has said that I should not use any of my Rugers as the basis for a custom gun...they finally have my attention.
Bricktop, I had rather wipe my azz with one ply toilet paper than to satisfy you. Monday, call the guy with the phone# that I listed and you will be satisfied that all is kosher, but I think you had rather spew hate and work through your Bi-polar disorder, up the dosage on you pills.
Last edited by keith; 06/26/14.
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Why wouldn't you send one back for a factory re-barrel?
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I have got a call into Bob Davis, I don't expect much...hope I am surprised. The gunsmith already has had multiple conversations to no avail.
When the Warranty states that you alter the gun, there is no Warranty, even if Ruger has faulty QC when it was assembled. I have now accepted the fact that my Rugers should not be the base for future custom builds, nor should I send back some of my well shot out Rugers for a factory Re-barrel. Every gunsmith I have used has said that I should not use any of my Rugers as the basis for a custom gun...they finally have my attention.
Bricktop, I had rather wipe my azz with one ply toilet paper than to satisfy you. Monday, call the guy with the phone# that I listed and you will be satisfied that all is kosher, but I think you had rather spew hate and work through your Bi-polar disorder, up the dosage on you pills. AS STATED IN THE PREVIOUSLY POSTED RUGER OWNER'S' MANUAL EXCERPT -- THERE IS NO WARRANTY, DUMBASS. RUGER FIREARMS HAVE NOT HAD A WARRANTY SINCE 1978. PLEASE PULL YOUR HEAD OUT OF YOUR ASS (FOR A CHANGE) AND POST THE REQUESTED RUGER WORK ORDER AND CORRESPONDENCE.
I have come here to chew bubblegum and kick ass. And I'm all out of bubblegum. I do tend to fit in well wherever I go in person. The campfire is the most outside exposure I get. No TV, no newspaper.
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Why wouldn't you send one back for a factory re-barrel? He's likely too stupid to fill out an address label; i.e., look at the dumbass nonsense he's been posting in this thread.
I have come here to chew bubblegum and kick ass. And I'm all out of bubblegum. I do tend to fit in well wherever I go in person. The campfire is the most outside exposure I get. No TV, no newspaper.
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ST: where have I stated I "care?" You should put some effort into reading. Just a little.
I have come here to chew bubblegum and kick ass. And I'm all out of bubblegum. I do tend to fit in well wherever I go in person. The campfire is the most outside exposure I get. No TV, no newspaper.
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Dipshit looks for things to argue about. That's his thing. Then wants to show he's the world's biggest @sshole.
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Dipshit looks for things to argue about. That's his thing. Then wants to show he's the world's biggest @sshole. Sort of like you want to show you're the world's biggest ass-kisser. You must've needed to get some air from sucking keith's dick, hence your latest "contribution."
I have come here to chew bubblegum and kick ass. And I'm all out of bubblegum. I do tend to fit in well wherever I go in person. The campfire is the most outside exposure I get. No TV, no newspaper.
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