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Brickhead dipsh*t is beyond stupid. Precision Rifle and Tool....why should he care what some @sshole on this forum demands. You oughta shut up.

"Precision Rifle and Tool" = not this forum, knucklehead.

Typical "fight or flight" response from a jackass caught in a lie. You and your life partner keith seem to have an emotional investment that this story be believed. A lot of name dropping, a lot of phony anger, but you knotheads keep avoiding the most basic item: THE RUGER WORK ORDER AND CORRESPONDENCE.

You two ladies keep stating you don't care if anyone believes the story, but you both keep posting.

So which is it? If you want to be believed, then post the requested documents and we'll analyze them. Otherwise, you both look like liars. It's that simple.

Another good one. Dipsh*t with a big mouth.

Come on, guys lets love one another...back on topic.

And more self-righteous indignation.

Post the Ruger work order and correspondence. Save your anger for keith and pound town.

Ok, honest question without the dumbass and dickheads. Does Ruger put epoxy on all barrel/action assemblies when put together?

What actions do they bed before shipping?

I'll be glad when you go away again. You are an assclown of the highest order. You sound like a 12 year.

Get the sand out of your vag, Sally.

None........ and none.......

Kinda what I was thinking Don.
But lets see what the 'experts' have to say.

Those've been my observations as well.

I'm still waiting on this:

rickmenefee, this gunsmith has very exacting standards. He will indicate on the lands on the muzzle end and the chamber end to the 0.0001 that is sticking out of the head stock.

Butler247, good point. Gunsmith did not remove front guard screw, that was done at home. Hindsight being 20/20, gun should have been sent to Ruger at this point. No one could have imagined what an incredible mess the threads turned out to be on the action and the barrel tenon.

Bricktop, I got a call into Bob Davis today, really nice guy. He is going to see what he can do after Ruger re-opens after 9 days closed next week. I discussed with him two different malfunctions that could have happened, cross threading due to misalignment with power screwing the action on, and the other Posibility where the thread gualing started due to the action and the barrel's Rockwell hardness being too close. Bob told me that the barrels were hand screwed on, so that possibility is out. The reality of the Rockwell hardness being too close between the two mating metals is real. He said that Ruger did not put epoxy on threads, but it is apparent that epoxy is on threads of this action,(after the trip to and fro from Ruger) that shocked him.

Bricktop, thanks for mentioning Bob's name in your correspondence, that gave me a place to re-start an attempt to save a gun. The Customer service rep told me that there was no one else to talk to (such as her supervisor) previously.

No matter the consequences, I appreciate Bob Davis' attitude and help in trying to resolve the matter.

I agree after talking to Bob Davis who is in Custom Service. He said that they did not put Epoxy on the threads of actions during assembly. However, some gunsmiths disagree with this statement. The action had the front trigger guard action screw epoxied in, and in the pictures that are posted on the interior of the action, you can see where there is epoxy in the front trigger guard screw hole. This epoxy had be applied during the assembly of the action and barrel because the barreled action had not been put in the stock. Again, we could not even get the action out of the stock when the rifle was new due to the epoxy around the front action screw.

My take is that there was a rare problem that happened during the assembly, and an employee went way outside the box to fix the problem vs scrapping the whole gun.

The problem is probably what we have seen before on some of the first Browning A bolt stainless and some 1911 in 45 ACP where there is severe gauling between stainless parts that are close to the same Rockwell Hardness. It only takes a little bit of gauling to cause threads to strip, both on assembly and disassembly when thread tolerances are tight.

Unless you want to possibly find yourself trying to depend on the Good Will of a Customer Service Manager after you have Scrapped your gun, simply don't take it apart. The amount of Good Will a Customer Service Rep may be able to exercise, may have limits based on Budget constraints.

The very best Rugers that have ever been made are being made today, they are more accurate than the Rugers made in the 80's, and they copper foul much less. Ruger Stainless barrels made today feel as smooth as Hart, Bartlin, etc barrels when pushing tight patches through them. Just do not take one of them apart unless you are willing to take a chance on having a similar experience.

Skip the name-dropping and focus on what's in your control.

I'm still waiting on this:

In two weeks we will hear something from Ruger(I hope).


Brick, on Monday, call the gunsmith that I gave you the phone number of...it will be better than seeing paperwork. He made a video of removing the barrel from the action.

Maybe I should post that video on You tube as a training aid as to why you should not take a Ruger apart?

Keith you edit nearly everything you post on this. One particular post where you said "Like the mess you have on your hands now" about trusting Ruger to re-barrel a rifle (Its been edited out now). I thought it was an elderly friends gun, why is it your mess? I don't believe we're getting the full story.



Agreed. I don't think Ruger was the source of the epoxy.

So, there is one question really here- why not just chase the threads, spin and go.... If I was faced with that on a car I sure wouldn't junk it over that little pos bug.

After reading all this I am pretty sure the "expert" gunsmith in all this is a little floor sweeping shop monkey named Keith who got carried away playing with the lathe.

Quit pfuking around and post the Ruger work order and correspondence. No one gives a damn about any YouTube videos.

MagMarc, it is my best friend's gun. He is really not up to the fight, he is heart sick of this problem.

Ruger is indeed the source of the epoxy, remember, the front guard screw was epoxied in, we could not remove the action from the stock.

You are getting all the story as I know it.

Colo Wolf, if you go back and look at the pictures of the threads, when the threads gauled, they ripped out hunks of metal. I talked to Greg Tannel of Gre-Tan rifles, and he said that it was $600 to fix if there was enough barrel shank to cut off all threads and re-chamber the barrel. I don't think that there is enough barrel shank for a re-chamber.

Bottom line, don't disassemble a Ruger, use another brand of action instead.

After the fiasco with the front guard screw, we shot this 6.5 Creedmore without it having been bedded. The rifle would shoot 1" groups, sometimes smaller. This is why we sent it to the gunsmith for pillar bedding the stock and muzzle break. We put perhaps 150 rounds down the tube prior to sending it to the gunsmith.

After dealing with this issue, the gunsmith will not touch another Ruger for a customer in any way, he says his time is just too valuable.