Had anyone had a problem with not getting a barrel clean enough when applying DBC? If so, how did you come to realize that the barrel had not been clean enough?
Also, is Rusty Duck still made? Thanks, John
Not a real member - just an ordinary guy who appreciates being able to hang around and say something once in awhile.
Happily Trapped In the Past (Thanks, Joe)
Not only a less than minimally educated person, but stupid and out of touch as well.
Iron bender, I have treated 6 new bores with DBC with excellent results. Just keep in mind that new doesn't mean it's clean. Starting with a clean bore is the key.
Randy
+1 on DBC.
I've used it on new, premium barrels and barrels with some roughness. It really works. With my premium barrels, there is very little fouling. I can shoot a bunch and pass a patch or two of Eliminator and the bore looks perfect. On the rougher barrels, they foul a lot less and are easier to clean than pre-DBC. I'm a believer.
I do use a Hawkeye borescope, so I know clean when I see it.
I do not know clean when I see it. I have spent many years searching for the elusive "completely clean patch". In all seriousness, is there any point in my attempting to DBC my rifles?
On another tack, what has applying DBC done to affect accuracy? I think about how a few fouling shots are often necessary after cleaning a barrel to get accuracy to settle back down. What effect does having a barrel that hardly fouls have on that? Again, serious question. Thanks for sharing experiences.
Not a real member - just an ordinary guy who appreciates being able to hang around and say something once in awhile.
Happily Trapped In the Past (Thanks, Joe)
Not only a less than minimally educated person, but stupid and out of touch as well.
I do not know clean when I see it. I have spent many years searching for the elusive "completely clean patch". In all seriousness, is there any point in my attempting to DBC my rifles?
On another tack, what has applying DBC done to affect accuracy? I think about how a few fouling shots are often necessary after cleaning a barrel to get accuracy to settle back down. What effect does having a barrel that hardly fouls have on that? Again, serious question. Thanks for sharing experiences.
Even though the rifles is stainless I still want to take the best care of it I can especially the bore.
The great benefit of stainless is that all a stainless barrel needs is to be shot frequently...rust is not much of an issue; but you can oil the bore with anything you like as long as you make great effort to remove every trace of any oil before firing.
Stainless doesn't really need oil or anything else, and if your a fan of hBn it only needs to be cleaned... hardly never...
I like dbc, on CM, but dbc won't add much to an already optimized situation, but you may see some small benefit that you may like.
Stainless barrel steel can rust, in fact in certain climates and conditions it definitely will. He lives in eastern Arkansas, one of the places where it could.
“Montana seems to me to be what a small boy would think Texas is like from hearing Texans.” John Steinbeck
TopCat, He lives in eastern Arkansas, one of the places where it could.
Yes indeed, any clime where 'HUMIDITY' is ever present, we must do our best to prevent rust, even in SS.
One of the 'perks' of living in the South or coastal areas is NEEDING to oil or something a CLEANED rifle bore. Therefore the need for a couple of fouling shots of a clean bore.
On another site a guy tested a pile of well known oils. He had access to a bunch of brake hubs. I don't think you could name an oil he didn't test. When it was done the hands down winner was a wd40 product w/a long term insignia....I think it was "wd40 ltdi". This is not your normal wd40. It waxed up on kroil, birchwood Casey, clp, esox, and other well worshipped products....many of which I use. I don't have trouble where I live...so the others work for me....but if I were in a different area and needed it...that would be my choice. If seen it at Wm and it usnt cheap but the difference wasnt even close w/other products.
I have seen the test as well. The label of the product reads: WD-40 SPECIALIST LONG-TERM CORROSION INHIBITOR I have picked up a 6.5 OZ can at WalMart for about 5-6 bucks.
Per usual for the Campfire, after the first page or two almost everybody jumps right in and casts their vote, without reading the rest of the thread--or even the original post. Instead they just go by the header.
Hey, guys, the OP made up his mind two dozen posts ago. He's going to apply Dyna Bore Coat, which isn't any sort of oil, and works even better, since it's permanent and doesn't result in "fliers."
“Montana seems to me to be what a small boy would think Texas is like from hearing Texans.” John Steinbeck
Per usual for the Campfire, after the first page or two almost everybody jumps right in and casts their vote, without reading the rest of the thread--or even the original post. Instead they just go by the header.
Hey, guys, the OP made up his mind two dozen posts ago. He's going to apply Dyna Bore Coat, which isn't any sort of oil, and works even better, since it's permanent and doesn't result in "fliers."
I was merely helping out the fuzzy recollection of the poster before me. I did not imply in any way the superiority of WD-40 Specialist. Original poster was looking for oils to protect his rifle from rusting. You and others have talked him into glass lining his bore and expecting it to be the end of all discussions.
I was merely helping out the fuzzy recollection of the poster before me. I did not imply in any way the superiority of WD-40 Specialist. Original poster was looking for oils to protect his rifle from rusting. You and others have talked him into glass lining his bore and expecting it to be the end of all discussions.
