If your plate for the top was thin enough to be warped in shipment it wasn’t thick enough to begin with. Mine is 3/8” plate top with legs made of 8”x33lb per foot I beam. I put a backsplash made of a sheet of 10Ga on the wall behind my table to keep sparks off from grinding and welding. Mine is not movable but is used %75 of the time for little TIG projects. I also cut two 10” circles out of 1/4” plate and put a length of 2” tube between them to make the perfect height stool to run the foot control and TIG weld at the table. You want it heavy enough to stay relatively flat through hundreds of heat cycles and plenty of beating on it. Weld a half a slice of pipe or a C shaped piece of sucker rod onto one leg to hold your grinder readily accessible but out of the way. Use a grinder to knock the berries off the tabletop between jobs to keep it smooth for layout and tack up. A cheapo Horror Fright vise on one corner comes in handy at times as well. Blow a 1” hole in one corner for bending round rod with a torch or for holding a torch while you lay out the next cut. I also have a 3”x3” plate I cut a slot in and put a slight upward bend to the resulting fingers tacked onto the right hand side of my bench to hang my TIG torch or arc welding stinger between welds, a short chunk of 1.5” tubing tacked to one edge makes a good holster for a MIG gun.
Don’t be afraid to use your tabletop to make a jig by laying out and tacking on short pieces of angle to lay your parts into and tack together. Use a slicer wheel when you’re done with the job to cut the welds holding the angles on and clean the tabletop back up with a regular grinding wheel.
