Well, I have used the 'Mountaineer lightweight stove' in my 14 x 16 tent. Too small, but I bought it with visions of someday packing in (versus truck camping). I also bought the extended legs with it (just flat stock and angle iron with two 1/4-20 bolts per leg). The length lets you place wood under it to dry (and save some floor space). I wasn't really surprised at the performance, as I am generally hot by nature (hey -- you are hunting anyhow, and all those clothes better be keeping you warm enough that a minute or two by the stove is all you need).
http://www.walltentshop.com/CatStoves.htmlThis year I bought a 10 x 12 tent, as my kids all moved away and no one worked out to hunt regular with me (less to heat, and a bit less to set up). The stove worked perfect for this tent.
One thing I do is throw some dirt in the bottom of the stove to keep it from getting burned out (some past hunting pal pointed that one out to me). The light weight metal is my biggest reason for doing this. I suppose it also adds to its ability to hold some heat. Thin stoves will warp if over heated (my darling daughter had that sucker red all over and the tent at ~80 degrees once). That particular event also brings up the two holes she burned in the roof. With the air speed that was going up the flue it took some embers with it. I had a cap on it, but no actual screen. Since then I bought a screen from Davis Tent. It is a piece of hardware cloth they wrap into a cone that slides into the top section of pipe. By the way, the pipe that came with my stove has tabs to pull the sections apart. I stack mine in two sections as there is room in the 'box' that is formed from the stove parts.
Davis has a monthly special (changes each month). December is 15% off of the treated and fire resistant canvas, making it basically a free upgrade from the treated canvas. 'Treated' is canvas shrinkage control and uv protected. I have a buddy bought his tent years ago with untreated canvas and regrets it. A few years ago the special was tan canvas (as I recall) at 15% off. Seemed like a good idea, wouldn't show dirt, blend into the site. Too dark, just sucks the light out of the lantern.
I like the options of the Davis tent (and they are a home town company), so can't comment on others quality. Especially the 'Colorado' door. I get mine with a double slider (no cost) door zipper, so that I can open the top and look out if I want (or vent the door a bit if it is smoky or hot). The Colorado door is the flap over the door opening in the previous posts picture, with click-locking plastic latches. It gives two things: a back up to a broken zipper, and a wind block like a good jacket has.
The Davis web page shows three methods of standing the tent up: internal pole frame (as above), a pole kit (internal ridge pole kit and side poles that attach under the side rope eye bolts and onto the tent base pegs), and using on site wood for the ridge pole and either on site side poles or no side poles at all (great for packing in). I have the intermediate solution. One tent I bought the ridge pole, the other I made my own. On the side poles I use 1/2 of them in half inch EMT, and the other 1/2 in three quarter inch EMT. That way I can nest three poles (includes the ridge poles) into one, saving a lot of truck space (I use a small box on a trailer and pull it with a 2 door Tracker, so space is as important as weight).
I also paint my poles with two contrasting colors so I don't (hopefully) loose my poles in the snow or in the weeds when tearing down. The new tent got Christmas colors (I just got back -- tis the season).
One more thing a shooting buddy suggested. Hang hooks from the ridge pole supports. Take two screw type hose clamps and place them a few inches apart. Slide one or two ~8-12" long ~3/16" steel rods in them. Bend the rods to approximate a coat hanger to hang coats, hats, gloves, toilet paper rolls, whatever. Try it at home to see what works for you (may want to pre bend the wire, fit it to size for paper towels, etc). Watch the ends though if they are at eye level. I always throw a few clamps and rods in each year. You almost can't bring enough of them.
Another buddy brought up pellet stove fuel. We spread that out on the ground in really rough areas, or if we are sleeping on the ground we put it there too. It is also great around muddy spots (just inside the doorway, or the cook area, etc). And then we leave it when we drive off. All that is left is sawdust. Leaves room in the truck for the elk that you hope to be bringing back too.
One thing I did this year that worked very well. I use white gas stove and lantern, as I can carry a lot of fuel and it always works (versus the half empty propane tanks or the size and weight of a 20# bottle and plumbing). BUT- the generator in the Coleman stove (big brass thing on the end of the rod coming out of the tank) has to be hot enough to vaporize the fuel. This takes a while with the white gas version, and even longer with the dual fuel version (bigger heat sink). This year I stuck the tip into the flames of the fire in the wood stove for ~30 seconds. I was at full flame 30 seconds after starting the Coleman stove, instead of 10 minutes or so. Just make sure the fuel valve is closed prior to heating it.
You can fit more folks in a tent with tall legged cots (due to floor space). The hunter just needs to make sure he brings boxes (mouse proof) that will fit under it. I prefer to sleep on the ground when I can (pads, straw, pellets). I bring a sheet of heavy plastic that covers the sleeping area. Then a canvas painters drop cloth (cheap at Lowes Depot). I lay the plastic under the canvas, then use 4-8 spare tent pegs driven into the ground. Keeps any moisture from being drawn up into the canvas, and the canvas gives you some traction versus the plastic (carpet would work too, just heavier). I am not a fan of fully lined floors (or tents with floors sewn in). As noted, too hard to keep up. And a fire hazard if you drop something on it (plus, you can always shovel dirt over/out/around the ground -- can't do that with a floor). Davis builds their tents with a vinyl strip sewn in along the bottom edge. It is designed to be 'sacrificial' if it gets frozen to the ground and rips when taking it down (easy to repair). It keeps the wind out and the snow for uneven ground. But not the mice.
I also buy a roll of the reflective surveying tape and wrap the 8 corner ropes, as well as buy a cheap shorter (but full size diameter) crowbar. I grind the nail puller slot large enough to work with the tent stakes. It also gets painted two colors. And I like having a short handled 'campers' axe. Works as both a hatchet and hammer to drive the stakes in. I have three bags for my tent set up: 1 for the tent cloth; 1 for the poles (Davis sells a nice one); 1 for all the other stuff (axe, crow bar, spare rope, stakes, floor, roof tarp, etc). Then I label them "1/3, 2/3, 3/3" so I am reminded as I pack that I have everything. I paint a patch on the 3 bags that is color matched (and put the x/y label on this) so I know I have the correct (matching) components. Like a dirt bike number plate.
And if you want AR you need to meet my wife! Hope you can find something of value in this (sorry about the length). Oh, no native hardwood in Colorado. So don't expect a load of wood to be as hot or last as long. And water boils at lower temps as you go higher -- food may take longer to cook.
