Chutestraight,<BR>Wilson Shok buffs,use 'em or your frame wont last as long as it could.<BR>1pc full length guide rod and Wolff springs,same as above.<BR>High quality lube to prevent galling.<BR>Keep your loads at or under SAAMI spec. and don't run hot loads through the same brass more than 3 times.<BR>You have an unsupported case head,and lots of pressure.The strength of your brass at the head is the only thing between you and a KB,and possibly a wrecked pistol.Heed the max listed loads,cartridge OAL's,and specific components listed in the manuals,and work your way up to max.<BR>The 10mm is a freaky,peaky,stressed out cartridge from the start.Don't push it!<BR>Do NOT swap your mainspring for a lighter one to acheive a lighter trigger.<BR>The resistence from the hammer pressure against the firing pin stop is critical to slide velocity under recoil operation.<BR>Go to a lighter mainspring and your slide will hammer the frame.<BR>It's a 1911 that is maxed out as far as it will go for pressures,don't push it.<BR>Keep an eye on the recoil spring.They are CHEAP! if you think it's getting wimpy,swap it for a new one and swap the firing pin return spring at the same time.<BR>For accuracy have a 'smith fit the frame and slide,fit a proper bushing,and possibly a new fitted barrel if yours cannot be built up for a good fit.<BR>If you wish to go on the cheap,the Dwyer group gripper does a good job and comes as a 1pc guide rod assy. killing 2 birds with 1 stone.<BR>These are lessons I have learned hot rodding the .45super in the 1911,and reports back from buds that had the 10mm speed itch in the late 80's and early 90's.<BR>The 10mm is awesome if you respect it's quirks,and the 1911's limitations.<BR>Good luck,be safe,and have FUN!<BR>E4E<P>------------------<BR>Remove the mechanical variables,and then you can only blame yourself!<BR>http://home.intekom.com/upfront/cost.htm
