As they say, opinions are like a$$holes: Everybody has one. IMO, the angled front action screw is one of the best ideas to come along since the Mauser 98. It totally negates the need for glass bedding the action, and simplifies correct assembly. Tighten the front screw as tight as you can get it with a screwdriver and hand torque. Tighten the rear screw half as tight, and thread in the middle screw just enough to secure the floorplate and magazine box. If the middle screw it "tight", it is wrong.
Forend pressure depends on the load. IME, in general, heavy bullet loads want forend pressure on the barrel to shoot best, and light bullet loads respond well to a free-floated barrel. Free-floated is the best option because the barrel is not affected by natural movement of the wood stock in response to temperature and humidity variations. I usually try free-floating first. If that doesn't work, I add a well-fitted pressure pad to the forend.
The worst situation is a poor-fitting forend pressure pad that allows the barrel to "shuck back and forth" roughshod. If you are gonna have a pressure pad, make it one that fits the barrel and does not allow side-to-side movement between barrel and forend. I use epoxy and layers of card stock to accomplish this. Wrap celophane tape around the barrel while the pad cures so it doesn't glue the barrel to the stock permanently. When the glue is cured, file a groove in the bottom-center of the pad with a rattail file so the barrel is cradled in the pressure pad and doesn't move side-to-side. This arrangement usually shoots smaller groups than a free-floated barrel, but is still subject to stock movement, which is why I try free-floating first.
Good luck. Let us know how you make out.
