As they say, opinions are like a$$holes: Everybody has one. IMO, the angled front action screw is one of the best ideas to come along since the Mauser 98. It totally negates the need for glass bedding the action, and simplifies correct assembly. Tighten the front screw as tight as you can get it with a screwdriver and hand torque. Tighten the rear screw half as tight, and thread in the middle screw just enough to secure the floorplate and magazine box. If the middle screw it "tight", it is wrong.
The worst situation is a poor-fitting forend pressure pad that allows the barrel to "shuck back and forth" roughshod. If you are gonna have a pressure pad, make it one that fits the barrel and does not allow side-to-side movement between barrel and forend. I use epoxy and layers of card stock to accomplish this. Wrap celophane tape around the barrel while the pad cures so it doesn't glue the barrel to the stock permanently. When the glue is cured, file a groove in the bottom-center of the pad with a rattail file so the barrel is cradled in the pressure pad and doesn't move side-to-side. This arrangement usually shoots smaller groups than a free-floated barrel, but is still subject to stock movement, which is why I try free-floating first.
Good luck. Let us know how you make out.
Geee... Sure wish I knew all that glass bedding was not needed on all those 77s I fixed with glass bedding and freefloating. The angled screw does nothing to fix the fact wood changes size differently from metal. Holding something tight (and certainly no tighter) against wood does not change the fact the wood moves.
Any properly bedded action does the same thing when tightened in place.
My complaint is the fact they give up a reference point for proper bedding.
Just how does a pressurepoint maintain pressure if there is a layer of tape between it and the barrel while curing? Wax and/or release agents work just fine for keeping two things twain.
