Originally Posted by baberuth43
How would you know if its had a clean history or not? I mean I didn't think there was anyway of knowing on a used gun
your right, really no way to know for sure. I have never seen runs in a factory finish on the wood.

I don't buy 70's once they went to plastic butt plates. So it's easy to tell if metal plate with widows peak is original. You really need to be proficient at spotting a reblue and it won't take to long once you handle some originals. After that learn to recognize wood to metal fit. When they start switching out parts the fit goes to hell, unless they are real good at forgery....(then you have to go back and look at wood finish).

Last would still be to really look close at rare cals and super grades. The super grade needs to first have a proper front sight, then fit and finish comes in. It's really like taking a college class in m70s. And you can still learn after 20 years. Hope that doesn't scare you.

Once you go into the super grades , know the type of cheek piece for your serial no. Learn to always pull the bolt out and check the scribbled no on the bolt and make sure it matches the guns serial no!

Don't let hang tags convince you of originality. The hang tags are now being forged. If the gun has a butt pad and its not a magnum caliber I will usually walk away since I want a stock that's not been cut.

Once you see extra holes drilled in the side of the receiver for a side mount scope, there no collector value.

I could write a book, buts its already been written. Roger Rule wrote it. Buy " the Riflemans Rifle" and read it cover to cover. Then in six months re read it!

Then and only then should you start to plop down big cash for some of the stuff ,

I do like the pre 64 .458 African for investment because they are very difficult to fake and they didn't make very many. $$$$$

Good luck!,!!!,

Last edited by Cartod; 12/18/12.