Plain old rubbing alcohol works good as a solvent for cleanup too, as does vinegar. I always use alcohol (denatured or rubbing)in the shop rather than acetone as it is a lot less likely to mar the finish if I get some where it's not supposed to be. Alcohol or vinegar is pretty benign, too, not like the known carcinogen that acetone is. I glove up and use acetone only when I have a serious cleaning/degreasing task at hand.
Don't be a slave to Brown-give-me-all-your-money-ell's. Any quality epoxy with suitable filler works ok as a bedding material. I used West System thickened with colloidal silica (the white fluff supplied in the Accuglass kits) for the last few bedding jobs because I happen to have it in my shop for all around gluing purposes. Results have been fine.
A factory rep for a major epoxy maker told us once that essentially all epoxy resins come out of the same spigot, that the only real differences are in the proprietary hardeners.
After the epoxy has cured, and you have removed the action from the stock (hopefully!), swab the exposed epoxy surfaces with solvent to remove the amine blush- that trace of wet/thin film that forms on the surface as it cures. It's benign, but it will impede bonding of any subsequent application of epoxy should you need to fill a void or air bubble. You have a 24 hour window of opportunity to make such an application without scuffing the surface. After that, sand it lightly before slathering on any more epoxy for a good bond.
Last edited by gnoahhh; 11/20/14.
