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Hey TC1 would you link the stock you did recently! Most of the pictures are gone now but here is the link Stock refinish
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Thanks, Drummond hit me up yesterday about stock refinishing. I told him to check your post. I think he can follow instructions without the pictures, but I'm not 100%.
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Campfire Kahuna
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Campfire Kahuna
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Most of the "oil" finishes you find today aren't true oil but oil/varnish mixes and don't need wax. Sorry, but that is not correct. Oil finishes, almost universally, have a large component of wax in them. It makes them level out better and lubricates the application process. Finishing oil is just oil, usually, and most contain driers. eta: Waxes as a protection for all oil finished stocks is an outstanding idea with zero downside assuming no silicone is added.
Last edited by Sitka deer; 07/09/15. Reason: add last sentence
Mark Begich, Joaquin Jackson, and Heller resistance... Three huge reasons to worry about the NRA.
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Campfire Kahuna
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MinWax Antique is not what the poster thinks it is on that thread. It is nothing different from almost all oil-based finishes. Not bad, but hardly the best stock finish, or even close. Be wary of anyone still advocating steel wool...
Mark Begich, Joaquin Jackson, and Heller resistance... Three huge reasons to worry about the NRA.
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Joined: Feb 2001
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Campfire Kahuna
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I use linseed oil, mineral sprits for first coat or two with 1:1 ratio to penetrate the wood. could add stain color to maybe get some color into it. other coats I add tru oil to the mix as a hardener and wipe access. Wood is a great filter... adding solvents to non-curing linseed does not increase oil penetration and even if it did the result would be negative in every respect for the finish.
Mark Begich, Joaquin Jackson, and Heller resistance... Three huge reasons to worry about the NRA.
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Stika, I am right and have a great day!
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Thanks, Drummond hit me up yesterday about stock refinishing. I told him to check your post. I think he can follow instructions without the pictures, but I'm not 100%. I need pictures
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Most of the "oil" finishes you find today aren't true oil but oil/varnish mixes and don't need wax. Sorry, but that is not correct. Oil finishes, almost universally, have a large component of wax in them. It makes them level out better and lubricates the application process. Finishing oil is just oil, usually, and most contain driers. eta: Waxes as a protection for all oil finished stocks is an outstanding idea with zero downside assuming no silicone is added. From everything I have found the Minwax antique finishing oil is a linseed oil/varnish
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That is what most of them are, that or a oil and urethane mixture. Daly's, Watco and many others are marketed as oil and they work and look like oil but aren't 100% oil. They mke a beautiful finish that wears and protects so much better than straight oil. You can still get a straight oil if you prefer it but not many do.
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That is what most of them are, that or a oil and urethane mixture. Daly's, Watco and many others are marketed as oil and they work and look like oil but aren't 100% oil. They mke a beautiful finish that wears and protects so much better than straight oil. You can still get a straight oil if you prefer it but not many do. Thank you. Have you used the minwax antique oil finish?
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Campfire Kahuna
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Stika, I am right and have a great day! I guess I really must have wasted all those hours in labs formulating and testing oil-based finishes with major components like microcrystaline waxes, carnuba, and all those other waxes... Have a blissed day!
Mark Begich, Joaquin Jackson, and Heller resistance... Three huge reasons to worry about the NRA.
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Most of the "oil" finishes you find today aren't true oil but oil/varnish mixes and don't need wax. Sorry, but that is not correct. Oil finishes, almost universally, have a large component of wax in them. It makes them level out better and lubricates the application process. Finishing oil is just oil, usually, and most contain driers. eta: Waxes as a protection for all oil finished stocks is an outstanding idea with zero downside assuming no silicone is added. From everything I have found the Minwax antique finishing oil is a linseed oil/varnish Yes, that is the standard, but it has a large component of fairly soft waxes which keeps the luster down. It also has a pretty high VOC (solvents) level which makes it easy to apply, but slows drying, creates more potential for later telegraphing of pores, less waterproofing, and less value for the money. Microcrystaline waxes are harder and produce more luster. Carnuba is fairly hard and cheaper, while other waxes from other plants and vegtables along with beeswax are soft.
Mark Begich, Joaquin Jackson, and Heller resistance... Three huge reasons to worry about the NRA.
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Campfire Kahuna
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That's good to know, thanks!
Mark Begich, Joaquin Jackson, and Heller resistance... Three huge reasons to worry about the NRA.
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That is what most of them are, that or a oil and urethane mixture. Daly's, Watco and many others are marketed as oil and they work and look like oil but aren't 100% oil. They mke a beautiful finish that wears and protects so much better than straight oil. You can still get a straight oil if you prefer it but not many do. Thank you. Have you used the minwax antique oil finish? Sorry but I haven't. I'm a huge fan of Watco Teak oil these days. I've used a lot of different finishes from straight oils to polyurethanes and have yet to find one that offers the combination of looks and protection of this product. It'll make the figure and color of a fine piece of walnut really pop. It penetrates deep and offers good protection, it even has UV protection and it's easy to work with to boot.
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I know this post is a few months old... I just bought my son a Rosewood Laminate stock from Richards micro fit. I was looking for some recommendations regarding finishing the stock... I have a couple of questions: 1) Are there special concerns I need to take into consideration since it's a laminate stock? 2) The stock has a pink hue to it... When I called Richards back regarding the pink color, the said it was from the dust, the recommended I take a damp rag and wipe a section down.
Thoughts?
Thanks in advance to any suggestions...
Regards,
Bruce
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Main thing with a laminate is to always use a sanding block with any abrasives sandpaper or pads. If you don't the glue lines will stand proud.
I wouldn't bother with an oil finish for one either but any of the improved wiping Oil/Varnish finishes will work.
Laminates usually wont take stain well or at all but you could add a dye type stain to the finish if the pink color persists. Go very lightly as the darker the finish the more it will show scratches. Record how much you add so you can get it the same when you refinish.
"When you disarm the people, you commence to offend them and show that you distrust them either through cowardice or lack of confidence, and both of these opinions generate hatred." Niccolo Machiavelli
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