Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Single Shots Ruger no 1a forend

Hi guys, I know the fixes for this has been hashed and rehashed so don't need that info, but I'm curious when you guys feel the need for a bit of bedding at the forend tip. My 1a 7x57 shoots okay 1.5-2", but I've noticed that there is a bit of wobble in forend. By that I mean if you push the barrel sideways while holding the forend there is a bit of play. I'm not talking brute strength to make this happen, it just creaks a a bit with force applied. Is this normal or are some of your 1a's rock solid in that area. The barrel isn't perfectly centered in the channel either. I've relieved a whisker of wood where the forend meets the action as Mule Deer has posted in the past, but was debating a bit of bedding. Thanks

In my 1A in 7x57,I relieved a little wood and put a little bedding at the front of the fore end and centered the barrel.
Relieving wood at the action is good.
I also have a medium hard plastic shim between the hanger and the barrel.
Shoots 150 Solid Bases into 1/2 inch when I am up to it and keeps the same poi year round.
What's not to love.
Tim

My Boddington Leopard 7x57 has been a very good performer at the range. After my upcoming third session, I am going to examine the forend for rub marks and lightly sand them out. As for tip pressure, a Mule Deer trick you can use would be to fold a business card sufficiently thick so as to apply a little upward pressure.
You can experiment with the amount of pressure and decide whether to go and bed that area. Only adding one variable at a time is necessary to see which "fix" has a positive or negative effect.
Good luck and keep us updated.

Michigan road kill thanks for the reply. I would think that with a bit of work mine might shoot like yours if I can shoot like you.

Keep us posted.
No need to settle for 2" groups or shifting poi.
Tim

Well did a little back yard shooting off the porch. 50 yards not 100, added some business card stock at the forend to stabilize things, which it did no more creaks or wiggle room with slight force. 3 shots with winchester 145 factory ammo. 2 shots touching 1 just shy of an inch high. With an obsolete 4x28 leupold

For a hunting rifle that it's first shot from a cold barrel hits on, where I expect it, is most important.

I fire another shot to confirm.

I looked at my 1A and I have it 'bedded' on electric tape at the forend's tip. I see that it could be 'bedded' free floating also with tape further back on the extension.

This old #1 goes back to when they first made them and I have not shot it in a while.

I have two #1s and a #3, all bought in the 70's. I totally float the forearms by bedding them fore-and-aft in epoxy on the hanger, including a bit on the sides so they can't move sideways, then totally floating them, including at the action.

The first, a 243, is a factory barrel and it shoots in the 6's and 7's; the second, which is a 280 RCBS, is a Paul Marquardt barrel and shoots in the 5's and 6's; the third is a 270 WSM with a 28" PacNor barrel that shoots several loads in the 4's. I rebarreled the 270 only a few years ago and I've shot several blacktails and an antelope with it , and it's going elk hunting with me in Nov. I love the gun; it shoots several loads right into the same group.

I know others have had good luck with shimming the forearm but this is the way I do it. My #3 had a problem that affected accuracy with the toggle under the forearm hitting the barrel (you can feel this when dry firing) when firing, and I fixed this by some careful filing.