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And I'm talking about between the ring and scope or on weaver style rings, between all metal to metal contact points.

( I normally use it on screws but I've had scopes still get bumped and be off )

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May not hurt but it is a pain in the butt to remove and not necessary(and not intended for use in that way - Loctite is a threadlocker for use on screws).

Here's what I do:

Degrease your rings, degrease your scope tube, degrease the bottom of your scope base and the top of your rifle's receiver where the scope bases come in contact(any metal to metal contact between scope, rings, base, and receiver - Degrease It!). Also degrease all mount screws and screw threads before using Loctite(blue) on them.

Also, use some kind of adhesive like rubber cement or liquid electrical tape between rings and scope tube(this stuff is easily removeable and will not damage the scope tube. Don't go overboard, you only need a small amount of this stuff in the rings to work. Use a slightly damp cotton swab(Q-tip) for cleanup of any residue(before it dries) that oozes out from between the rings after your screws are torqued down properly.

In 20+ years I've never had a scope move in the rings or had mounts shoot loose on my own rifles(and the rifles of numerous friend's who have complained of movement issues), from 22LR to 338 Win. Mag.

Good luck,

Leftybolt


Last edited by leftybolt; 09/18/15.
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what would it hurt to just check them once in a while?

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Leftybolt ,

I'm going to try the degreasing everything -my night time hog rifle started shooting 3-4" groups at the range last week. The weaver rail was ready to fall off .


PRESIDENT TRUMP 2024/2028 !!!!!!!!!!


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Uncle Mikes markets a product called "Gun-tite" made specifically for what you intend.

LOTS easier to remove than Loc-tite, and effective, if you feel the need....


"...the left considers you vermin, and they'll kill you given the chance..." Bristoe
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The only slippage issue I've experienced is with a steel-tubed Weaver in regual Weaver rings. Break-Free crept under the rings and lubed things up so well I could turn the scope by hand.

I've always felt that matte-finish scopes would be less likely to slip. No real evidence to prove it, just my gut. I do like the Burris rings with the inserts. Tasco rings have a friction tape lining that works too, if you can stand the stigma of using Tasco rings.


What fresh Hell is this?
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if you dont plan to remove it later, I don't see why not.

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Clear fingernail polish works fine.


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Here's my method in detail.

1. Screw them down 20-25" lbs. done.

Never had a scope come loose in 28 yrs.

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Originally Posted by slg888
Here's my method in detail.

1. Screw them down 20-25" lbs. done.

Never had a scope come loose in 28 yrs.



^^^^^
This.




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I would purchase a better set of rings,go with steel this time.

Last edited by Outbackandy; 09/19/15.
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Rubber cement!

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lapped rings have never failed me.

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Make sure to use the Red Loctite, I believe it is 271. No worries from then on.


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Originally Posted by Hammer2506
Make sure to use the Red Loctite, I believe it is 271. No worries from then on.


I hope this is a joke as you will never get the screws back out with red Loctite.

Get yourself some decent rings and don't worry about it. I've never put Loctite on any rings and never had any issue.

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Loctite on the rings is not going to solve the scope getting bumped off or has nothing to do with it. Only thing that would solve that is a better scope. But if he doesn't want the rings to be loose use loctite 271. They will never be loose again nor will you change the scope. Only way to change scope is drill screw heads off and install a good set of high quality rings.


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I know Spuhr recommends "gluing" or using rosin to secure the scope to the rings. No mention of what type of glue.

http://www.spuhr.biz/wp-content/plugins/download-attachments/includes/download.php?id=135

Edit: I am not endorsing the practice, just mentioning that one of the premier ring manufacturers recommends it.


Last edited by whitebread; 09/21/15.
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Originally Posted by reelman
Originally Posted by Hammer2506
Make sure to use the Red Loctite, I believe it is 271. No worries from then on.


I hope this is a joke as you will never get the screws back out with red Loctite.

Get yourself some decent rings and don't worry about it. I've never put Loctite on any rings and never had any issue.


When I had my pre-64 reblued back in the 80's the smith remounted the base using red loctite. Removing it was a simple matter of drilling the heads off a screw a screw or two. Nothing to it!
sick


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I tack weld them.


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Originally Posted by Pappy348
Originally Posted by reelman
Originally Posted by Hammer2506
Make sure to use the Red Loctite, I believe it is 271. No worries from then on.


I hope this is a joke as you will never get the screws back out with red Loctite.

Get yourself some decent rings and don't worry about it. I've never put Loctite on any rings and never had any issue.


When I had my pre-64 reblued back in the 80's the smith remounted the base using red loctite. Removing it was a simple matter of drilling the heads off a screw a screw or two. Nothing to it!
sick

You can use a soldering iron and place it on the screw heads of screws fastened with red loctite. It only takes a few short minutes to remove the screws once they get hot enough to cause the red loctite to release. You just have to make sure and remove the screws and clean them and the screw holes as well as you can before the red loctite cools down because it will harden again.

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