Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Ask The Gunwriters Dyna-Tek Bore Coat

Nifty - thanks for the observations. I believe what you have described happened to me with one of my rifles I treated with DBC. I shot about 20 shots after applying and did not clean the barrel afterwards. I put it away for a few months, not thinking anything about it. I pulled it out the other day after I got a borescope for Christmas, and lo and behold - I had rust in the barrel! I have been fighting a moisture issue in my gun room that I recently solved (big de-humidifier), but didn't expect the bore to rust like it did, especially since I treated it with DBC. Your description make sense, as I probably shot too many curing shots without cleaning, thus not completely curing the DBC in spots. Thankfully, the rust wasn't too bad, but it did lightly pit the barrel in some spots. I have since used JB paste again to smooth out the pits and re-applied the DBC. I haven't shot it yet, but when I do, it won't be very many before I clean it again.

GunLooney88,

Thanks for sharing your experience. Congratulations on getting a borescope. The borescope provides a view into a whole other world. Without it you may have never known what was going on in your barrel.

My advice for any loony who doesn't yet have a borescope, is to forego one more unnecessary gun purchase, and get a borescope instead. Do it now, before your next impulsive gun purchase once again depletes your rat-hole money.

Or look into that over-crowded gun safe and pick a gun you no longer care about and sell or trade it into a borescope.



GSSP,

Incredible shooting. It wasn't that many years ago when those groups would have broken the world record. Thanks for sharing your experience with that high of a round count.

I treated my 221 Rem with DBC in 2008. I have never retreated since. Now, with over 1,300 rounds down the barrel since the DBC treatment 8 years ago I have seen no decrease in the effectiveness of the treatment or in the accuracy of the barrel.

After reading your post I gave the barrel a good inspection and saw just traces of copper. The barrel hasn't been cleaned in over one hundred rounds. It is soaking now with WipeOut. Later today it should clean up nicely with just a few patches.

I am looking forward to working with IMR-4451. I haven't gotten my hands on it yet. Best wishes.

I got a little Gun Shield on the bell of a gloss scope. Is there anything that will cut the epoxy to remive it without taking the finish off the scope too? It's not the end of the world, but I'd like to get it off if I can.

Thanks

OK I am about ready to try this for the first time and I have a few questions.
So Ive spent considerable time cleaning the rifle I want to try DBC on as it is a notable copper fouler. I do not have a bore scope but have spent much time making sure as best I can that bore is clean. It presently is oiled up with Kroil and I will do one more cleaning before I go to the acetone/alcohol step, and then apply the DBC.
I see it says to let DBC "dry" before shooting for at least 4 hours....is it ok to leave in bore for Days before I shoot it??
For first shooting is 10 rounds about right?
I see where first cleaning can show much "junk" and is to be expected.
Is there any cleaners/copper removers I should NOT use?
Going forward, just wondering if any cleaning products can remove or damage DBC??
Thanks for the help.

It's fine to leave DBC in the bore before shooting. I've left it for a couple of months or more.

10 rounds is plenty for curing. I usually shoot half a dozen.

Don't use an abrasive cleaner afterward, such as JB Compound. Any solvent is fine.

The cleaning to bare steel raises questions for me. Even Hoppes#9 must leave a bit of hydrocarbon residue in the steel. Will rubbing alcohol completely evaporate, or is a final acetone wash needed to get the barrel truly clean?

Acetone is probably more effective, but I've done a number of barrels degreased with rubbing alcohol and had no problems. But I also live in a very dry part of the country.

Gun Scrubber works really well for leaving a bare metal to air surface.

Nick be aware for big foulers especially in stuff over .308, you might have to treat the bore 2-3 times....

Rubbing alcohol is usually about 70% isopropyl, but if there's more than one kind on the shelf you may find a 90% version. I use a bunch of that stuff.

Yeah, I use the 90% solution.

It's a bracing aftershave as well.

Thanks for the help
Its for a Ruger 7x57 of my sons that REALLY copper fouls.
Two more questions....So I got 20 rounds loaded that consist of the same bullet, 2 different powders, and two different primers. I hear not to expect very good accuracy at first, but I want to chrono these loads, 4 loads 5 shots per. Do ya think DBC will effect velocity readings at all especially first 5 shots after application? Or do ya think it will be in "ballpark"?
Secondly about cleaning after initial break-in...wire brush ok? Or should I use nylon?
Whats good for copper fouling afterwards, I have SWEETS and BORE-TECH on hand....I see Montana extreme listed alot?
Thanks again

Anyone know how this does with leading?

Nick,

No brush, just patches and Wipeout

GG,

It works great with reducing leading.

Tagged. May do a couple of my rifles this spring/summer to see how it does.

In reference to chronographing the curing loads, the first shot WILL be goofy and will usually be a couple of inches or more out of the normal group, and the curing series of shots will not group very well. After the first couple of shots I think the recorded velocities will be "ballpark". I wouldn't normally use test loads for curing. I usually use factory loads that I just want to shoot up, or to finish a lot that didn't turn out as good as I had hoped.

It is more fun to shoot the curing shots at a gong. That way you don't see a discouraging group and you can blame a miss on the curing process. Also, I usually fire the curing shots without letting much cooling take place, as it is the heat inside the barrel that is doing the curing process.

As to using bore brushes, I frequently use nylon bore brushes with Patch-Out (non-aerosol Wipe-Out). Bronze brushes will not hurt the DBC coating either, but brushes really aren't necessary. Any non-abrasive solvents or copper-removers are fine. Just don't use JB Bore Cleaner Paste, or Flitz, or that sort of cleaner.

The Montana Xtreme products are excellent and can be left in the barrel overnight. Sweets can only stay in the barrel for a few minutes or it may etch the barrel. Ammonia-base products turn the patch blue in the presence of copper. KG-12 is my favorite copper remover, but it does not turn the patch blue. KG-12 can also stay in the barrel indefinitely since it contains no ammonia.

I verify the progress of the copper removal with my borescope, which also allows me to concentrate my efforts on the portion of the barrel where the copper is, instead of long-stroking the whole barrel.

"Rubbing" alcohol often contains lanolin to deter the drying effects of the alcohol on the skin. Straight isopropal is better for cleaning. Noticed the streaking on glass and discovered upon research, the mfg adding lanolin.

No it's more like a straight guy, thinking what's going to happen in prison. Ha ha

I gave Bore Coat a try last year on a Korean surplus 7.62 X 51 Garand that copper fouled badly. I've had it since the early 1980's. It was horrible for the first cleaning after treatment. I thought I may need to do it again. 2nd cleaning, still black stuff and copper. 3rd cleaning, just normal IMR4895 ash and a little copper. At each cleaning the barrel got smoother until it was like pushing patches through a glass tube.
I jumped on the DB bandwagon! All of my pistols got it, 22 through 45. Only the 7.62 Tokerevs didn't achieve perfection after the first cleaning. They still streaked copper a little, but by 3rd cleaning no copper with surplus ammo.
So I tried BC on a 9.3 X 57 M46 Husky (1929) and an 8 X 57 Husky 640 (1948), my worst copper foulers. I thought the 9.3 would require a 2nd treatment, but it did not. The 8mm seemed a dismal failure at first. It's like a glass tube now. follow on shoot/clean cycles with a little patience pays off. No 2nd treatment required.
A 219 Donaldson Wasp took on the first cleaning as did a 257 Roberts and two AR-15s. Others took several shoot/clean cycles.
My M-14 SA is coated and sitting. I've also got a Husky 1640 coming, and after inspecting the throat and shooting groups for a baseline, it will receive a good cleaning per Muledeer instructions and Borecoat.
Have patience. If the bore is cleaned correctly before application, Borecoat does work.