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I have a 60d and have been using a70-200 f4 with great success on birds,whales,and just about everything. I came across a canon 100-400 and it seems that the pictures of waterfowl even on the water come out less then clear.Mostly in the area around the head - just not sharp especially compared to the 70-200.If I take a shot of a sign or scenery it is really clear.Any ideas? Thanks
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Make sure you are familiar with the AF functions of the camera. Birds in flight while shooting in ONE SHOT will yield soft images. Also try to keep shutter speeds above 1250. There is a lot to learn about DSLR AF systems so understanding that is important. The original 100-400 is a fantastic lens, I shot mine exclusively off a tripod and would put those images up against many I saw from "sharper" lenses. It did take me some time to learn to shoot it properly though. Good luck
Ahh, nice marmot
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When photographing with a longer lens, the image appears magnified, so therefore problems are magnified as well. If you are getting a sharp image of a sign, then the lens is fine. Look at the image of the waterfowl and see if anything is sharp, i.e. something in front or behind the duck. If it is then like Fishkilla says, check your AF functions to ensure you are hitting the mark on the focus point. If something is sharp and your focal point is where you wanted it, then you might need to do a micro focus adjustment on the combo. If noting is sharp, then movement is likely to blame and a higher shutter speed mentioned above will definitely help.
Great photography is not about being in the right place at the right time, it is about putting yourself in the right place at the right time.
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If you want the bird's head in focus, place the focus point on the head. The ISO has to be high enough to keep the shutter speed fast. Set the camera to Av, AF-Drive to AI Servo, and then burst mode. Also set the camera so you can move the focus point around the frame. For example, lest say that I am taking a photo of a moose and I want the eyes in focus, but the moose is far enough that it feels the frame (the viewfinder). The problem is that the moose's rump is closer to the camera, and the moose has turned its head and is staring at me from the left end of the picture. In this case I move the focus point from the center of the frame, and place it right on the moose's head. Another example (below). To take this photo with a Canon 200mm F2.8L, I placed the focus point on Nikki's head. You will notice that her back end and tail are slightly out of focus, but not the head. http://jeradhillphoto.com/how-to-nail-focus-on-your-dslr-every-timehttp://www.dummies.com/how-to/content/how-to-select-an-autofocus-point-with-a-canon-eos-.html
Last edited by Ray; 02/20/16.
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Cookie uses an older Canon 100-400 (the one that extends substantially) with a 50 and a 70D, and it's probably her most versitile wildlife tool. With the quicker shutter speed too, one can typically get by with hand held work. As one zooms in and subjects get closer, depth of field becomes shallower, and it's tougher to get everything in focus. She really has a tough time with close in deer portraits. If the eyes are nailed (and that's what most folks insist on) the nose in front and antlers to the rear may not be sharp. If one can get birds broadside, there's a better chance of nailing their full length. Face on and frame filling smaller birds may be tough again due to the depth of field issue. One is pretty much stuck with what Mother Nature gives us though, since we can't get things to stick around and pose. With birds in flight, they're near impossible to nail focus on if they're below the horizon. With all the motion, the camera can't figure out what to lock in on. Then it's a matter of just doing numbers, throwing out the garbage, and keeping the rare hit. Get them up in the sky, however, and things become a bit easier. Keep at it, study the meta data and focus points accompanying each pic, and you'll likely figure things out. She has her best luck with the sports mode which I think is a quicker shutter speed and probably center and continuous focus when things are in motion. I think that setting also lets the ISO float to keep ones shutter speed up. Have a good one, A couple of her samples, and I'm seeing some vertical streaks in these. I hope it's this 12 year old monitor.
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I forgot to mention that for birds in flight I use different focus-point settings, that the settings I mentioned on my previous response.
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Biden's most truthful quote ever came during his first press conference, 03/25/21. Drum roll please...... "I don't know, to be clear." and THAT is one promise he's kept!!!
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Nebraska: Thanks. Just a lucky opportunity. One can try 500 times and never get near the shutter. On 501, they walk out of cover and give one a look. Cooke does throw a lot away due to poor lighting, twigs through the eye, or nothing but a southern view.
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