Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Ask The Gunwriters Guys help me with bedding a Mauser

Bedded quite a few in my time but can't remember how I did the only Mauser in my cabinet. It's a straight '98 but I can't remember how I dealt w/the large hole under the recoil lug. I can't remember if I damned it w/clay or I just bedded around it to keep the glass from running down in the hole. Everything else I've pretty much got down pat. Any and all suggestions will be greatly appreciated. powdr

The one where you put your front action screw/stock maker's screw?

Might be a hint there.

Tape the bottom and sides (not rear) of the recoil lug then wax, wax the inside thread and the stock bolt then bed...screw together carefully and drill excess out from around the screw when it has set and you have pulled it apart...make sure there is a bit of room around the screw/bolt to allow for movement of stock/recoil.

If it glues then put it in the freezer to break the contact.


Or do as the rest of us do and wander about in a fugue for a few days praying you didn't do something wrong.

I make a donut of modeling clay to fill the front hole. Then I grease the front screw well with plain old wheel bearing grease.
When the epoxy starts to get tacky, like when it starts to push up out of the cracks between the stock and the action, I turn the screws out and back in tight 1/8 to 1/4 turn to make sure they aren't getting glued in. I do it again after a couple of hours.
It's a pain to dig the clay out of the recesses with a pick later, but it's worth the trouble.
Just my way. Not the only way. Probably not the best way, but it works for me.
I also put tape on the stock to keep the epoxy off and make it easier to scrape any oozing stuff off with popsicle sticks.

This ^^^^

Since you asked, don't use so much bedding compound.

Really. I started out like JSTEWART said and also did the modeling clay thing (PITA to clean up). Worked well. Then I thought it through, seeing the recoil forces couple to the stock in my mind (don't forget torque though it isn't a whole lot). Now I put the bedding compound at the points where I want the forces to couple and use just enough to do that. No contact elsewhere. Works well and less cleanup.

I always run grease into the hole in the receiver with a swab, one wrap of electrical tape around the action screw where it isn't threaded and more grease in the screw threads just in case. Never had one stick but have had to clean the threads in the receiver with a bottoming tap.

Plumbers bowl wax is handy cheap non-stick hole plugging stuff.

This is what I do on Mauser and weatherbys

Thanks a bunch guys. It's slowly coming back to me now. I don't think it'll be a problem. powdr

If you use the Acraglas gel instead of the liquid, it's not an issue. I haven't seen any downsides to the gel for bedding Mausers. Along with that, tape on the recoil lug and wax on the screw as suggested above.

Guys, much to many people's surprise, I don't use any tape on the lug. I bed them tight and have proven to myself and others that it works well. The last two I bedded shot half to 3/4 inch at a hundred yards. powdr

I use the tape so I can easily remove the metal work when I wish to.

If you are depending on accuracy, then do not use the action screws. I use black electrical tape to secure the BA to the stock. Much easier and it helps avoiding any tension on the job. I use a dial indicator to check bedding and this method is the only one I have had success with for very good accuracy. Usually no high or low spots which really makes a difference in accuracy.

Fred, I have always used screws but have been contemplating using tape or surgical tubing for this one. It does make a lot of sense for a no tension job. powdr

Thanks for the Bowl Wax tip Gentlemen.
Acraglass Gel is my usual epoxy. Not so runny, easier to fill voids than the putties. Colors and Fillers can be added easily.

I've glass bedded all types of actions. The Mauser and it's short recoil lug is more difficult. I used several wax or break free things. One that works well is the spray on case lube.

I usually blind inlet cross bolts if a new stock or it only has one. I've done a few older German custom made guns that did not have any cross bolts, there were cracks. To preserve the look I came up with blind in letting cross bolts.

Acraglass gel is my preferred, i have noticed the composition seems to be different now.

Tape on the wood is good, paper towels and vinegar before it hardens. Make sure every thing is protected, double check that one. I've only glued one together. My personal custom pre 64. Zero would change before every deer season. You can not believe how a small spot can hold the action into wood. I froze it and when I tapped the bbl to remove it the stock broke at the wrist. I never screwed up a customers gun but then I guess I double checked and did not use that hurry up mode. I glued the stock back together, it was in the wrap around rifling and is not noticeable. I drilled a hole from inside the stock thru the wrist and acra glassed a fiberglass rod in it. I then tapped it very, very hard and it did not break. That was 20 years ago and it has taken many deer.

Take your time, make sure it has plenty of release agent, tape, wax and like several above mentioned loosen the screws a tad and re tighten.

Have you tried Kiwi Neutral shoe polish? Wonderful release stuff... Works like a dream with Devcon Plastic Steel. Just perfect - thin, dry, cleans up easy. Three dollar insurance in a can... Of anything learned here on the 'Fire - this may be tops.

I've done that to slender Husky 1640's and M46s. I dremel slots where the head and nut will be, then cut a narrower channel for the threaded shaft between them. Cut a machine screw to length, put the nut back on, and Acraglas it in.
Invisible outside, just looks like part of the bedding compound inside.

Bedding a Mauser is no different than bedding anything else and there are general rules which apply.
1. Of the rearward facing surfaces, only the recoil lug should contact. So there needs to be clearance behind the tang and behind the mag well at the transition into the tang.
2. There should be supporting contact all around any screw.
When bedding a Mauser, I always bed with the bottom metal in place. I usually do not allow for any clearance on the recoil lug but I do make sure there are no undercuts which might cause a mechanical lock.
I tape the rear of the tang and the shoulder of the receiver at the front of the tang.
I file the threaded boss on the tang so that there is clearance when the front of the barrel is lifted when the stock is being removed. The boss is beveled back on it's front half.
I use a thin plug of pastewax in the screw holes.
I apply bedding compound to the receiver as well as to the stock. This eliminates any trapping of air behind the lug or along the sides. GD

Thanks Dog, that is usually the way I do it. Thanks for your comments. Was just a little confused about the large hole under the lug that the front screw boss fits into. powdr