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Growing up a suburban rat I never had much to do with chainsaws. Oh, we sawed firewood all right, but it was always by hand. When we had big stuff to cut, Dad would bring out the 2-man saw with the inch-long teeth.

So here I am, 58, without much knowledge of chainsaws. I bought my first one 15 years ago, A Poulan 620 with an 18 inch bar. I got fairly handy with it cutting down red cedars around the farm. However, outside of running it safely, I never really got down in the weeds with it. Instead, I had O.T.

O.T. was my buddy. He ran the mower shop on the next ridge. If I needed a chain sharpened, I'd just put it in a margarine dish and drop it off at the shop with my name on it, and come by the next weekend and pick it up. O.T. liked the business. I liked O.T. That became the beginning of a friendship that lasted for over a decade.

O.T. went blind three years ago and had to give up the business. He died last winter. At first I just put the chainsaw up on the shelf and got my sons to cut me some firewood. However, I've gone through the pile, and my youngest graduated high school, and it's time to face up to the fact that I still don't know how to sharpen a chainsaw.

I've also been digging around, and I'll be deuced if I can find all the chains. I had three for the Poulan, and can only find one. I have Dad's electric saw as well, and Dad hid his chain so well, it's been 5 years since he died and I still can't find it. I need some schooling in how does one buy the right replacement.

Once again, I turn to my crazy uncles on the 'Campfire and confess my ignorance. Please turn me towards the light.


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this will go on for pages


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If the saw shop is any count at all just tell them you want a couple chisel tooth chains for a Poulan 620 w/an 18" bar. As far as sharpening them goes either get someone to show you or You Tube it. Hard to explain how in words. Also you may want to let the saw shop take a look at the sprocket on your saw.

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Harbor freight sells a machine to sharpen chains. A friend of mine has one and says it does a great job.

Usually you can look on the chain links and get the size, count the links and you know what to buy, when replacing a chain. Any decent saw shop can look at your chain and cut you a replacement off the spool.


http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=chain+sharpening


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Ok, lets be honest Shaman. You're writing a book and need info for your KY Chainsaw Murders mystery. Right? grin


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Hmmmm. Now that's an idea!




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Take your saw to a saw shop, and they'll match a new chain to the existing bar. You may need a new bar, or your old one reground so both edges are even. Turning your bar over once in a while extends the life of the bar.

Full (square) chisel chains cut like a sumbee, dull quickly, are very difficult to sharpen properly.
Semi chisel doesn't cut quite as fast, is the most popular, and much easier to sharpen.
Safety, or low kickback chains cut the slowest, but are a good idea for top handle and small very light saws, 45cc's and smaller.
Those are the basic chains types, but there's a ton of variations. I free hand sharpen my saws, and once or twice in the chain's lifetime I'll take it in to shop and let a pro do it, straightening up any of my screw ups......


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Having said that, MAGA.
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Check Baileysonline.com, they have a chain selector that will match a chain to your Poulan. If you don't do much cutting take the chain to a saw shop to have it sharpened and they will file the rakers if they need it as well.

I second alpinecrick's post on chain. Run a semi-chisel and it won't dull as fast.

invest in a new bar and flip it every time you swap the chain.

I run stihls, 026 Super, MS460 and MS660 but your Poulan will keep serving you fine for what you described.


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And buy a couple extra chains so that when you're in the middle of working and the chain goes dull, you got extra to quickly swap out and keep after it. Get two dull and then get them re-sharpened for next time.


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I saw the thread title so I automatically know the answer is "get a Husky". grin grin


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Get a file guide and You-Tube is your friend, I didn't have these types of things passed down either as dad was a townie businessman and had to learn on my own once I knew having land to roam on and heating with firewood was the lifestyle I wanted.
If I notice mine getting dull I can hand sharpen nowadays and get them fairly sharp if I don't let it get too dull prior.


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Have it professionally sharpened at the start of each season to get everything right again. Then touch it up as needed through the season.


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Once you figure out your chain pitch (0.325" or 3/8" links) and # of links on the chain, you can buy replacements for filthy cheap from a number of online sources. I like buying from bailey's, because they send you their catalog every now and then with all kinds of cool stuff to look at.

If you owned a saw that runs 72 drive links of 3/8" pitch chain, then you can get replacement loops of Oregon chain online for $10 or less if you look around. That chain size fits Stihl's 20" consumer saws. Similar story with 84 drive links on a 24" stihl bar - chains are dirt cheap.

Brand of chain (Oregon, Stihl, Carlton, Bailey's house brand) is a worm can of a discussion. You'd be just fine with Bailey's house brand.

Full-chisel cutters with a square grind are tough to sharpen by hand, so avoid that type. Full chisel cutters with the round grind and round chisel cutters can both be easily touched up by hand. The full generally cuts faster but is more sensitive to dulling from dirt or hardness of the wood. I have no problems in the pacific NW cutting alder/birch/maple with full chisel, but none of that is as hard as other woods across the country. I don't see a need for safety chain of any kind, but that's just me.

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Many chainsaw bars will have the specifications for the chain stamped on the bar. To get a proper sized chain you need to know the pitch of the chain which is the distance bewtween the pins, most common are 0.325", 0.375" (3/8") and .404". Then you'll need to know the gauge of the chain, which is the width of the channel in the guide bar typically 0.043", 0.050", 0.058" and 0.063" and finally the number of links of the chain. So if you have a caliper for reloading you can make those measurements and then order a few replacement chains. Baileys is a great place and I'd order at least 3 loops. For even more info:

https://www.baileysonline.com/PDF/saw-chain-101.pdf

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Originally Posted by EZEARL
If the saw shop is any count at all just tell them you want a couple chisel tooth chains for a Poulan 620 w/an 18" bar. As far as sharpening them goes either get someone to show you or You Tube it. Hard to explain how in words. Also you may want to let the saw shop take a look at the sprocket on your saw.


No need to read any further than this. Great advice.


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On a related matter, I have been told that you can yank on the starter cord until the cows come home, leave, and come home again, and the obstinate, damned machines (no matter the make) will refuse to start until you move the on/off switch from off to on.


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I find the Oregon company site a good one.


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Originally Posted by Vek
Once you figure out your chain pitch (0.325" or 3/8" links) and # of links on the chain, you can buy replacements for filthy cheap from a number of online sources. I like buying from bailey's, because they send you their catalog every now and then with all kinds of cool stuff to look at.

If you owned a saw that runs 72 drive links of 3/8" pitch chain, then you can get replacement loops of Oregon chain online for $10 or less if you look around. That chain size fits Stihl's 20" consumer saws. Similar story with 84 drive links on a 24" stihl bar - chains are dirt cheap.

Brand of chain (Oregon, Stihl, Carlton, Bailey's house brand) is a worm can of a discussion. You'd be just fine with Bailey's house brand.

Full-chisel cutters with a square grind are tough to sharpen by hand, so avoid that type. Full chisel cutters with the round grind and round chisel cutters can both be easily touched up by hand. The full generally cuts faster but is more sensitive to dulling from dirt or hardness of the wood. I have no problems in the pacific NW cutting alder/birch/maple with full chisel, but none of that is as hard as other woods across the country. I don't see a need for safety chain of any kind, but that's just me.


Oregon bought Carlton which has Ray and Mike Carlton doing RPMs in their graves I am sure. The other player on the world chain market it Stihl. I have done a lot of comparison testing on the three brands when I worked for Carlton and Stihl always came in last. Oregon and Carlton were neck in heck and I am guessing they still are. I am also willing to bet Bailey's house brand is made for them by Oregon or Carlton.


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Originally Posted by shaman
Growing up a suburban rat I never had much to do with chainsaws. Oh, we sawed firewood all right, but it was always by hand. When we had big stuff to cut, Dad would bring out the 2-man saw with the inch-long teeth.

So here I am, 58, without much knowledge of chainsaws. I bought my first one 15 years ago, A Poulan 620 with an 18 inch bar. I got fairly handy with it cutting down red cedars around the farm. However, outside of running it safely, I never really got down in the weeds with it. Instead, I had O.T.

O.T. was my buddy. He ran the mower shop on the next ridge. If I needed a chain sharpened, I'd just put it in a margarine dish and drop it off at the shop with my name on it, and come by the next weekend and pick it up. O.T. liked the business. I liked O.T. That became the beginning of a friendship that lasted for over a decade.

O.T. went blind three years ago and had to give up the business. He died last winter. At first I just put the chainsaw up on the shelf and got my sons to cut me some firewood. However, I've gone through the pile, and my youngest graduated high school, and it's time to face up to the fact that I still don't know how to sharpen a chainsaw.

I've also been digging around, and I'll be deuced if I can find all the chains. I had three for the Poulan, and can only find one. I have Dad's electric saw as well, and Dad hid his chain so well, it's been 5 years since he died and I still can't find it. I need some schooling in how does one buy the right replacement.

Once again, I turn to my crazy uncles on the 'Campfire and confess my ignorance. Please turn me towards the light.



Shaman I am not sure this is of use to you or whether you even have access to same...but when I got into using chainsaws I joined the Rural Fire Service and had them put me through a comprehensive chainsaw course that dispelled all the half-arsed rubbish I thought I knew.
I am also fortunate to reside in a rural community where just about everyone has done the course and pretty much everyone cuts firewood, so there is no shortage of experience around here to fall back on.

As for chains and sharpening, I got sick and tired of sharpening by hand so invested in a big Oregon chain sharpener and a handful of chains, so now I just change the chain for a fresh one and resharpen at home when I strip and clean the saw.




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Originally Posted by 5sdad
On a related matter, I have been told that you can yank on the starter cord until the cows come home, leave, and come home again, and the obstinate, damned machines (no matter the make) will refuse to start until you move the on/off switch from off to on.


Along with pulling the choke out and pull till it pops and then pushing in half way. Using high test gas with oil mix helps too.


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