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For all the new SWFA SS 3-9x42 owners, one minor annoyance to mention:

The band that the adjustment scale is marked on isn't real firmly glued down. My first 3-9x42 the elevation turrett band came loose after extensive use. Other folks have had this problem. It required the expensive and difficult repair that Tanner told me about - a few drops of superglue.

I prememptively glued the band on my windage turrett and both Turretts on my second 3-9x42 and have had no additional problems.


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Pardon my cluelessness on this subject.......are you talking about the band around the turret with all the numbers on it?


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Originally Posted by JGRaider
Pardon my cluelessness on this subject.......are you talking about the band around the turret with all the numbers on it?


Exactly. It can come loose and then it will be free to spin - kind of hard to know exactly where 0 is w/o a reference mark!

Buy some gel superglue, remove the turrett knob, put a ring of glue on top of band, wait for it to dry, re-attach turrett.

Not a big deal, but it would aggravate me if it came loose while I was out on a hunt.

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It's the band with the "Up<---->Down" and all the revolution numbers on it...

[Linked Image]

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Gotcha....thanks Canazes.


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thanks C,

I just ordered a couple so will give them the treatment when they arrive. A picture tutorial would be helpful... grin


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Originally Posted by Kimber7man
thanks C,

I just ordered a couple so will give them the treatment when they arrive. A picture tutorial would be helpful... grin



It's pretty complicated!

1) Dig around in your junk drawer till you find the right sized allen for the turrett.

2) Turn allen set screw lefty loosey to remove.

3) Remove set screw.

4) Grasp turrett firmly, pull straight up (turrett is splined, don't twist), remove turrett.

5) Glob some glue on top of the band, if you feel industrrious use a toothpick to poke a little into the tiny little gap between band and turrett. As you can tell, it's uber important to be only use the exact amount needed....

[Linked Image]

6) Glob more glue around the band in different spots till you feel like it's probably gonna hold.

7) Wait for the glue to dry.

8) Touch your finger to the glue, if your finger isn't stuck to the turrett the glue is dry.

9) Line up the mark on the turrett top to the center mark on the band and push the turrett straight down.

10) Insert set screw, turn rightey tightey...


Done.


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Originally Posted by Kimber7man
thanks C,

I just ordered a couple so will give them the treatment when they arrive. A picture tutorial would be helpful... grin


In the above pic I posted there is a tiny bit of white residue at the bottom of the band. That'd be super glue. The band in question came loose, so I slid the band off the turret housing, put a couple of drops of glue on the housing, spread it around with a toothpick and quickly slid the band on, put the turret on, and aligned the band with a tick on the turret. As you can see, in this case I spent a bit too much time dinking around, and by the time I noticed the band was one click too far to the right, it was too late. Not a big deal, I just reset the turret to index zero with the band. The band and the turret line up better than it looks like in the pic, that must have been taken when the turret was between clicks, or something. Either way, now that you've heard my story you can make sure to work quickly if your band ever breaks loose, and get the lines on that band aligned correctly before the glue dries wink

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This sounds complicated but likely better than cutting the whole works off. LOL


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I wish they made this scope in a SFP I would even deal with the mil setup if they did.

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Why do you want sfp? I just got through zeroing and shooting two 3-9's and love them. Reticle was plenty at dusk last night and first light this morning. Easiest scopes I've ever zeroed earlier. I have no idea how sfp would be a advantage?



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Originally Posted by Kaleb
Why do you want sfp? I just got through zeroing and shooting two 3-9's and love them. Reticle was plenty at dusk last night and first light this morning. Easiest scopes I've ever zeroed earlier. I have no idea how sfp would be a advantage?


ahhh we have been through this a million times. FFP does seem to be what many in particular tactical shooters want. I see where you live, the only thing I can think of is most people simply don't have public land to shoot on and are doing most of their shooting at the range rather than in a desert or wide open spaces like I do. for me a scope MUST perform on its lowest power setting. that is where ALL of my scopes spend most of their time. I only add magnification if I need it and the more I need the more time I have to adjust it.

even in a long range western style hunting situation ALOT of your shots are going to be close and quick. I don't feel FFP performs on low power in particular with a 3x9 scope. FFP does work well and I do see the advantage on scopes of very high power ala 6-24x etc. the marks simply aren't useable on most FFP scopes much below 5x anyways. a 6-24 scope to me is high power and something I personally would use as a load development scope only. my ideal is the 3-15 range for long range hunting/shooting. 2.5-10 on short to medium distance rifle. simply put if I need the features of the reticle in those power ranges I am going to be at MAX power anyways, so why give up and be stuck with a reticle that is tuff to see without illumination on low power. I don't want to use illumination, for all I know the scope could have been left on and the battery is dead. its simply not needed.

the lower power optic your using, 3x9 or even something 12x or lower makes NO sense being FFP. as always if you shooting some competition and have a special niche use, like shooting moving targets and adjusting scope power alot then of course what works in that situation is different. I don't shoot competitions and I only shoot at the range when load developing and sighting in. the rest of the time I am dealing with shots on animals that might be fast, fading light, FFP simply does not work for my application. its too bad because there is ALOT of very cool optics that are only offered in it.

Last edited by cumminscowboy; 11/30/16.
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Originally Posted by cumminscowboy
Originally Posted by Kaleb
Why do you want sfp? I just got through zeroing and shooting two 3-9's and love them. Reticle was plenty at dusk last night and first light this morning. Easiest scopes I've ever zeroed earlier. I have no idea how sfp would be a advantage?


ahhh we have been through this a million times. FFP does seem to be what many in particular tactical shooters want. I see where you live, the only thing I can think of is most people simply don't have public land to shoot on and are doing most of their shooting at the range rather than in a desert or wide open spaces like I do. for me a scope MUST perform on its lowest power setting. that is where ALL of my scopes spend most of their time. I only add magnification if I need it and the more I need the more time I have to adjust it.

even in a long range western style hunting situation ALOT of your shots are going to be close and quick. I don't feel FFP performs on low power in particular with a 3x9 scope. FFP does work well and I do see the advantage on scopes of very high power ala 6-24x etc. the marks simply aren't useable on most FFP scopes much below 5x anyways. a 6-24 scope to me is high power and something I personally would use as a load development scope only. my ideal is the 3-15 range for long range hunting/shooting. 2.5-10 on short to medium distance rifle. simply put if I need the features of the reticle in those power ranges I am going to be at MAX power anyways, so why give up and be stuck with a reticle that is tuff to see without illumination on low power. I don't want to use illumination, for all I know the scope could have been left on and the battery is dead. its simply not needed.

the lower power optic your using, 3x9 or even something 12x or lower makes NO sense being FFP. as always if you shooting some competition and have a special niche use, like shooting moving targets and adjusting scope power alot then of course what works in that situation is different. I don't shoot competitions and I only shoot at the range when load developing and sighting in. the rest of the time I am dealing with shots on animals that might be fast, fading light, FFP simply does not work for my application. its too bad because there is ALOT of very cool optics that are only offered in it.


Have you ever used the 3X9X42 SWFA SS?

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Originally Posted by R_H_Clark


Have you ever used the 3X9X42 SWFA SS?


I'm pretty sure he's seen a video of a different FFP scope on youtube.


Why would he need to actually use the rifle scope in question in order to provide a detailed commentary on how usefull it is or isn't?

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Holy mackerel - this 3-9 is crisp and sharp and the reticle is perfect! And I'm not even remotely tempted to take the Dremel to it!


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Guys I'll admit I didnt read all his [bleep]. I was asking a serious question but after a few sentences realized he was going to be a chit head. I have so much to learn I can't screw with reading his chit.

I did see where he said ALL his scopes are used at lower setting so why the hell doesn't he just use a low power scope. He's the only damn person on here who doesn't like any scopes made.

Dare I ask what firearm he finds sufficient ?



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Originally Posted by MtnBoomer
Holy mackerel - this 3-9 is crisp and sharp and the reticle is perfect! And I'm not even remotely tempted to take the Dremel to it!


Mine hasn't arrived yet.I'm starting to feel like a virgin on prom night.

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Originally Posted by cumminscowboy
Originally Posted by Kaleb
Why do you want sfp? I just got through zeroing and shooting two 3-9's and love them. Reticle was plenty at dusk last night and first light this morning. Easiest scopes I've ever zeroed earlier. I have no idea how sfp would be a advantage?


ahhh we have been through this a million times. FFP does seem to be what many in particular tactical shooters want. I see where you live, the only thing I can think of is most people simply don't have public land to shoot on and are doing most of their shooting at the range rather than in a desert or wide open spaces like I do. for me a scope MUST perform on its lowest power setting. that is where ALL of my scopes spend most of their time. I only add magnification if I need it and the more I need the more time I have to adjust it.

even in a long range western style hunting situation ALOT of your shots are going to be close and quick. I don't feel FFP performs on low power in particular with a 3x9 scope. FFP does work well and I do see the advantage on scopes of very high power ala 6-24x etc. the marks simply aren't useable on most FFP scopes much below 5x anyways. a 6-24 scope to me is high power and something I personally would use as a load development scope only. my ideal is the 3-15 range for long range hunting/shooting. 2.5-10 on short to medium distance rifle. simply put if I need the features of the reticle in those power ranges I am going to be at MAX power anyways, so why give up and be stuck with a reticle that is tuff to see without illumination on low power. I don't want to use illumination, for all I know the scope could have been left on and the battery is dead. its simply not needed.

the lower power optic your using, 3x9 or even something 12x or lower makes NO sense being FFP. as always if you shooting some competition and have a special niche use, like shooting moving targets and adjusting scope power alot then of course what works in that situation is different. I don't shoot competitions and I only shoot at the range when load developing and sighting in. the rest of the time I am dealing with shots on animals that might be fast, fading light, FFP simply does not work for my application. its too bad because there is ALOT of very cool optics that are only offered in it.
please disregard the village idiot,especially the whole last paragraph that he wrote. If you hold for wind a ffp works on any power, unlike a sfp scope.

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Originally Posted by Kaleb
Guys


It is truly wondrous, if always using low power, then why, just why then buy the 20X, the dog of the entire lineup? This is all so last year.

Many folks, with many different hunting areas and shot opportunities, are saying this scope, as well as the 6X and 10X Mil Quads kick some serious ass. They work. Although I've had the 3-9 before, it's been awhile. I can not imagine it being better or wanting it thinner or thicker, and never ever would I want it SFP. These inexpensive scopes, especially the fixed powers, have opened turret twisting to me. I'd never had bought a $1800 scope just to try it and surely don't want something known NOT to work reliably. It's opened a lot of opportunity. Thanks SWFA!


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Originally Posted by cumminscowboy
Originally Posted by Kaleb
Why do you want sfp? I just got through zeroing and shooting two 3-9's and love them. Reticle was plenty at dusk last night and first light this morning. Easiest scopes I've ever zeroed earlier. I have no idea how sfp would be a advantage?


for me a scope MUST perform on its lowest power setting. that is where ALL of my scopes spend most of their time. I only add magnification if I need it and the more I need the more time I have to adjust it.


This I'll agree with. And all of my FFP scopes are extremely useful on low mag, even in fading light, including 3-9's, 3-12, 5-20, etc.

I also spend a lot of my shooting time in wide open spaces, and all I can say is that I've used SFP scopes AND FFP scopes extensively, and all the SFP scopes have gone down the road. You should actually buy a few FFP scopes, instead of just passing judgement based on YouTube videos, and THEN decide what you think of them.

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