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Campfire Greenhorn
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Hi all

I was given a slightly bubba'ed P14 in 303.
It's pretty accurate and since it's already bubba'ed It would be a fun project.

First I need to find a stock for it, I'll probably go with a Boyds P14/P17 stock.

I have almost no experience with gunsmithing so this should be a fun place to start.
The learning curve is going to be steep!

I'm going to cut the barrel down to 22", and recrown, (I understand that this can be done without a lathe)
Remove the ears at the back.

I'd like to learn how to do rebluing and do it myself (how hard can it be?)
Drill and tap for a scope and install Peep sights.
The plan is to use the peep sight more than a scope but it will be nice to have a scope on it too.

I also plan on removing the "belly" which will likely means that the mag will hold less rounds but I really do not need more than 3shots in the magazine.


I'm excited to get started, I think the first step would be to slim down the mag box,
that way I can get the stock ordered and start work on making it fit with a slimmed down magazine box.

GB1

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Campfire 'Bwana
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Here's a Tom Burgess project (not mine), which represents the top end of what that gun can be, but at GREAT cost.

Most are "bubbasmithed" and look like it.

So, it depends on how much work and expense you're willing to invest. They are good, strong actinos.

DF

[Linked Image]

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If you install a cock on opening mod, be sure to follow the instructions carefully. If you grind too much you'll need a new bolt.
Um, don't ask.


I prefer classic.
Semper Fi
I used to run with the hare. Now I'm envious of the tortoise and I do my own stunts but rarely intentionally
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Sir,

Great fun ahead for you, but your comment "I'd like to learn how to do rebluing and do it myself (how hard can it be?)"
made me smile.

How hard can it be? Well, how about a bunch of bluing tanks, the chemicals, a method to heat the tanks, and all the associated health hazards?

I would recommend Dura Coat, it is relatively easy to prep for and apply, and it gives a durable finish in a color you desire.

Good luck, keep us apprised of your progress.


"I didn't realize we had so many snipers in this country." by J23
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Thats almost too pretty!

IC B2

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Thanks for the advice I'll look into dura coat.

My first task is researching how to remove the 'Ears'

I believe it to be a Remington since it's stamped "RE" and from what I understand do not have the oval recess.

I was thinking to use a hacksaw, to cut it down to a manageable side and then using a metal file to smooth it out.

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Campfire 'Bwana
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I've cut barrels with a hacksaw. I tape the barrel, draw a line (perfectly concentric), cut with the saw, rotating the barrel to get a concentric cut. I then smooth up with a file, crown with a hand tool from Brownells with a 11* taper.

Works well.

DF

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Sounds simple , I was going to cut it long first so that I have some material to practise with before I get to 22".

How would you cut the ears off the rear of the action?

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Originally Posted by Hoarsecock
Sounds simple , I was going to cut it long first so that I have some material to practise with before I get to 22".

How would you cut the ears off the rear of the action?

You may want to find someone set up mill those ears.

DF

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You can do the ears with a grinder and files. Go slow- it's easier to take steel off than to put it back on.

As for bluing, you can do a nice job at home with a minimal outlay in tools. The trick is to rust blue. Polish everything to 400 grit, swab on the solution, let the brown velvety rust form, boil in distilled water, card off the now black rust with degreased 0000 steel wool. Repeat until nice uniform blue is the result, usually 4-6 applications. You can do the actual bluing in the kitchen, if you're not married. Ahem. Overly simplified- just the bare bones to give you an idea what you would be getting into. Rust bluing is how many many custom smiths do it, and was SOP way back when. It is as durable (some say more so) than hot salts bluing. Polishing by hand, at home, will help guarantee some ham-handed guy (you or the "smith") doesn't round over the sharp edges- the telltale sign that Bubba was at work.


"You can lead a man to logic, but you cannot make him think." Joe Harz
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IC B3

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If it was mine, that ugly bolt handle would have to go. The safety is good, I'd keep it. The bottom metal can be welded to lose the belly, maybe replaced with an aftermarket piece.

DF

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Originally Posted by Dirtfarmer
If it was mine, that ugly bolt handle would have to go. The safety is good, I'd keep it. The bottom metal can be welded to lose the belly, maybe replaced with an aftermarket piece.

DF


Yep I have heard of people bending the bolt handle, I'll probably do that.

Do you know where one could find an aftermarket piece?

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Campfire 'Bwana
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Originally Posted by Hoarsecock
Originally Posted by Dirtfarmer
If it was mine, that ugly bolt handle would have to go. The safety is good, I'd keep it. The bottom metal can be welded to lose the belly, maybe replaced with an aftermarket piece.

DF


Yep I have heard of people bending the bolt handle, I'll probably do that.

Do you know where one could find an aftermarket piece?

I think I'd consider welding a new bolt handle rather than trying to heat and bend that one, just me.

You'll have to check around for bottom metal, see what a smith would charge to cut and weld that one. And then the stock will have to be adjusted for the new bottom metal.

Lot of work, doing one of those right.

The more you can do yourself, the more you can justify that project.

DF

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Try and examine a Remington Model 30 to get some ideas on what you might accomplish with a Pattern 14 or U.S.1917. The M30 was essentially a sporterized M1917.

I think the reason one doesn't see many über nice sporters is that the P14/M1917 requires a heckuva lot more work to put it into trim shape than, say, a Springfield or Mauser. That, combined with the modern trend toward worshiping those rifles in original condition, keeps them out of the hands of custom smiths.

Last edited by gnoahhh; 12/07/16.

"You can lead a man to logic, but you cannot make him think." Joe Harz
"Always certain, often right." Keith McCafferty
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Campfire 'Bwana
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Agree with the M-30. Get photos on line and see what this gun could look like with enough money... cry

The OP can take this project just as far as he feels comfortable. It'll still be a good gun, even if not all dolled up... smile

DF

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It's days like these that I wish I was in the USA, it's so much easier to get parts and such for rifles than here in Canada!

I have looked at the Model 30s and that's exactly what I have in mind.

I'm taking my time on this one, and hope to hand it down to my son in a few years.

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Campfire 'Bwana
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Originally Posted by Dirtfarmer
I've cut barrels with a hacksaw. I tape the barrel, draw a line (perfectly concentric), cut with the saw, rotating the barrel to get a concentric cut. I then smooth up with a file, crown with a hand tool from Brownells with a 11* taper.

Works well.

DF

Found photo of HVA barrel cut as described. Focus could be better, but you get the idea.

[Linked Image]



And how it shot, actually closer to 100 meters than yards.

[Linked Image]


[Linked Image]


http://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/8948791/1

Link to project.

DF

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I send my bolts to Dan Armstrong www.accu-tig.com for new bolt handles and also to micro tig the Remington handles.
He is in Fairbanks, Ak and is very quick and reasonable.

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Campfire 'Bwana
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I've seen photos of his work.

Impressive what he can do.

DF

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Originally Posted by gnoahhh
Try and examine a Remington Model 30 to get some ideas on what you might accomplish with a Pattern 14 or U.S.1917. The M30 was essentially a sporterized M1917.

I think the reason one doesn't see many über nice sporters is that the P14/M1917 requires a heckuva lot more work to put it into trim shape than, say, a Springfield or Mauser. That, combined with the modern trend toward worshiping those rifles in original condition, keeps them out of the hands of custom smiths.


Good posts from both you and dirtfarmer. About the bolt handle, you used to be able to buy one from brownells, that wasn't too bad looking. It resembled the one on my BSA model D:

[Linked Image]

A good rendition of the "poor man's" pre 64 model 70.... blush



Originally Posted by raybass
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