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Two years ago I had a work-related injury while working in Alaska and the following surgeries, metal rods, cadaver ligaments, and other fun hardware have left my with very limited wrist flexion and low grip strength in my left hand, which is fortunately my support hand.

I had to give up my arsenal of trusted pump shotguns on the water this winter, my first season back on the water, and buy a Beretta A400 with Kick-Off stock because I couldn't control and cycle my pump guns with my wimpy left hand. My X-Bolts and my lightweight hunting rifles are now a little too lively for me to shoot in several field positions (due to a combination of no flexion and low grip strength), so now I'm looking for either a ported, braked, or semiauto rifle, like a Browning BAR. My question is which of the three options, which will have the most recoil reduction?

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Is this for hunting or target shooting applications?


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Braked will give the most recoil reduction. I used a T2 Terminator on my 7mmRM, 162gr @ 3000fps in a Tikka T3 (light rifle) and it felt only slightly worse than a .223 to shoot. Get a good brake. Downside is the need to use EARPRO at all times with it.

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180 grn bullets from a Kimber 84L

This is a bolt on brake

https://youtu.be/tmtpOVBzF6k


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I'm not very recoil sensitive but the wife surprised me wth some custom work including a brake on a Ruger 77 in 7mm RM - it kicked way less and shot more accurately. I shoot stiff loads of 300 Weatherby under an inch so it was just flat improvement in performance. It went from good hunting accuracy to 3 shots covered by a dime on several occasions. My son in law had the same work done and added a mercury recoil reducer in the stock his 7 kicks like a 223 and shoots tiny groups.

But you don't have to choose- get a Browning semi- auto with the boss system and tune your loads and get maximum reduction in recoil. Something in the 30-06 or 7 mag range will be a breeze to shoot a 7mm-08 will be a cream puff for recoil.

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Originally Posted by specneeds
I'm not very recoil sensitive but the wife surprised me wth some custom work including a brake on a Ruger 77 in 7mm RM - it kicked way less and shot more accurately. I shoot stiff loads of 300 Weatherby under an inch so it was just flat improvement in performance. It went from good hunting accuracy to 3 shots covered by a dime on several occasions. My son in law had the same work done and added a mercury recoil reducer in the stock his 7 kicks like a 223 and shoots tiny groups.

But you don't have to choose- get a Browning semi- auto with the boss system and tune your loads and get maximum reduction in recoil. Something in the 30-06 or 7 mag range will be a breeze to shoot a 7mm-08 will be a cream puff for recoil.


+1 the only thing better would be a lightweight BAR but doubt they came with a boss system but they can probably get a decent muzzle brake for one

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my browning xbolt long range hells canyon in 6.5 creedmoor has less recoil than a ar 15

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Thanks for the replies. I own an X-Bolt now and have been eyeing the Hells Canyon Speed because I'm familiar with the platform. I do like the idea of a semiauto in SA cartridges lighter than most AR10s. Maybe I will just have to eventually get both. I knew I asked my question on the right forum. I've lurked waaay longer than I have been registered, and I've learned a lot from you guys.

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I'd definitely consider a 260 or 6.5 Creed in your position. Very light recoil. Few animals are taken beyond 300 yards anyway, but a 140 gr. out of a 6.5 at 2600-2800 will kill effectively well beyond that if need be.

I've used my .260 ( a Rem 725 with a lightweight 700TI stainless barrel on it -total weight with scope and sling is maybe 7 1/2 lbs - haven't weighed it) to take several caribou to 300, an elk at 150, and a wolf at 40, no problem. I'm hoping to whack a moose (almost always inside 100) with it one day. Accuracy is more than acceptable - sub 3" groups at 300. Factory Corelokts.

The elk I shot was taken with a one-hand hold, with my left arm braced between two birches for a rest. No scope-eye and no noticeable recoil. But then I seldom remember any recoil when shooting at game anyway. At any rate, whatever recoil there was did not interfere with seeing that elk go ass over teakettle in the snow..... smile


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I shoot an .06 with 180 gr bullets / 57gr of H4350. With the brake, it recoils less than my 6.5 Swede using g 130 gr AB's at 2800 fps.

Using 220gr RN in the .06 it is about equal to the 6.5


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As noted above, if you do use a brake, make sure you use hearing protection. I have a measurable hearing deficit in my left ear vs right ear due to one round fired in a braked rifle without hearing protection. Also, if you choose a bolt rifle, you can custom order an HS Precision stock with a mercury recoil reducer in the butt stock. Had a custom .375H&H with an HS stock and one recoil reducer that I could shoot a 20 to 30 rounds per session without any ill effects...



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Hayes Elements of Ordinance 1938
This old book says that the momentum of the free recoiling gun is equal to the momentum of the projectile PLUS the momentum of the center of mass of the gas.
The gas mass is equal to the powder mass.
The velocity of the center of mass of the gas is taken to be 4700 fps.

But with a perfect brake on the muzzle we would take the momentum of the free recoiling rifle to be equal to the momentum of the projectile MINUS the momentum of the center of mass of the gas.

Working an example with my 338 Win Mag BAR
The rifle with scope, Limbsaver large grind to fit recoil pad, not ground, sling, and ammo is 10 pounds.
The projectile is 250 gr Nosler Gold Partition 338 bullets.
The powder charge is 69 gr H4350.
Projectile velocity is 2600 fps

Without a brake the gun momentum is equal to [250 gr ][2600 fps] + [69 gr] [4700 fps] = 250 gr/ 7000 gr/ pound] = [0.0357 pounds] [2600 fps] + [69 gr/7000 gr/lb = 0.0099 lb][4700 fps] = [92.82 lb fps ]+[46.53 lb fps] =139.35 lb fps
The gun velocity would be 139.35 lb fps / 10 lb = 13.9 fps
The rifle recoil energy would be 30 foot pounds

With a perfect brake the gun momentum is equal to [250 gr ][2600 fps] - [69 gr] [4700 fps] = 250 gr/ 7000 gr/ pound = 0.0357 pounds] [2600 fps] - [69 gr/7000 gr/lb = 0.0099 lb][4700 fps] = [92.82 lb fps ]- [46.53 lb fps] =46.29 lb fps
The gun velocity would 46.29 lb fps / 10 fps = 4.63 fps
The recoil energy would be 3.3 foot pounds

Almost all the recoil would be gone.

But a perfect brake would direct all the gas straight back. There are no perfect brakes.
http://www.1728.org/energy.htm


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uh oh..... another Mathman.

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Huntsman22, you can do jr high math


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maybe.......that's as far as I went, and it was a LOOOONG time ago.

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Originally Posted by las
I'd definitely consider a 260 or 6.5 Creed in your position. Very light recoil. Few animals are taken beyond 300 yards anyway, but a 140 gr. out of a 6.5 at 2600-2800 will kill effectively well beyond that if need be.

I've used my .260 ( a Rem 725 with a lightweight 700TI stainless barrel on it -total weight with scope and sling is maybe 7 1/2 lbs - haven't weighed it) to take several caribou to 300, an elk at 150, and a wolf at 40, no problem. I'm hoping to whack a moose (almost always inside 100) with it one day. Accuracy is more than acceptable - sub 3" groups at 300. Factory Corelokts.

The elk I shot was taken with a one-hand hold, with my left arm braced between two birches for a rest. No scope-eye and no noticeable recoil. But then I seldom remember any recoil when shooting at game anyway. At any rate, whatever recoil there was did not interfere with seeing that elk go ass over teakettle in the snow..... smile


I currently own a .243 and a 7mm-08 that I will probably thread and brake until I get a can. I like the idea of splitting the difference and picking up a 6.5 (Grendel, Creed, Swede, Rem. Mag, or .260). My brother "left" an XL-7 .25-06 in my safe a few years ago and I liked the caliber for predator hunting enough that I might use it for my antelope tag this year, but my .243 and Federal Blue Box did good work this season on mule deer and antelope. I shoot a 7-08 for elk and don't think I will go any heavier anytime soon.

As far as rifles, now that I know a braked rifle will significantly improve my ability to control my firearm, I'm just going to with my SOP of finding a rifle that fits and then have the rifle braked. I do like the Hell's Canyon Long Range and Hell's Canyon Speed as they come off the shelf. I don't own a Kimber currently, and I have heard that their braked models are fairly tame. Specifically, the Gun Counter Guru at the ACE Hardware said the Kimber Mountain Ascent in .308 had the recoil of a .243.

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There is no question that a brake can make a rifle easier to control and some of the rifles on which I have installed brakes were for people with physical challenges .On a personal note, time and effort will make a huge difference in the function of your hand. In 1975, I suffered an injury to my right hand wherein virtually every bone was broken or crushed, fingers were severed, and I lost roughly 60% of the soft tissue in my hand. I too had pins, skin grafts, and bone grafts and ended up with a largely inert claw. It was close to a year before I was done with surgeries. I had to start shooting left-handed since only my thumb had any real function. Three years later I had gained enough use that I was able to start gunsmithing professionally and shooting competitively. I began motocross racing, returned to playing basketball recreationally, and even started boxing again (though I couldn't throw a right hand with much conviction without suffering considerable discomfort and had to be pretty creative with the tape and needed help to get a glove on). Today, arthritus is beginning to make both hands the same and my busted up right hand is often overlooked until I have to shake hands. I still shoot left-handed and do OK. I paddle canoes, kayaks, and paddle boards. I can't clap my hands and can't shuffle a deck of cards worth a damn but I can do most everything I want to do. Not usually much worth clapping for anyway!
I think you should have kept some of those pump guns just for the therapeutic benefits of trying to operate them. Good luck and stick with it. GD

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I had KDF muzzle brakes installed on my .375 RUM and on my 300 Weatherby. I also put a mechanical or mercury recoil reducer in the stocks of both of these rifles.

Before I put the brake on the .375 RUM it was the worst kicking gun that I had ever shot. On the initial trip to the range with that rifle, I quit shooting it after only 6 shots. With the brake, I have taken it on two African hunts, and I had no problems shooting it, even from prone shots.

My .300 Weatherby is a Vanguard model, and I usually shoot 10-20 rounds through it every week at the range. About half or more of those rounds are from a prone position. I also have a Weatherby Vanguard in .308 Win that I'll alternate shooting with the .300 Wby. I feel less recoil from the .300 Weatherby than I feel from the .308 Win.


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Originally Posted by greydog
There is no question that a brake can make a rifle easier to control and some of the rifles on which I have installed brakes were for people with physical challenges .On a personal note, time and effort will make a huge difference in the function of your hand. In 1975, I suffered an injury to my right hand wherein virtually every bone was broken or crushed, fingers were severed, and I lost roughly 60% of the soft tissue in my hand. I too had pins, skin grafts, and bone grafts and ended up with a largely inert claw. It was close to a year before I was done with surgeries. I had to start shooting left-handed since only my thumb had any real function. Three years later I had gained enough use that I was able to start gunsmithing professionally and shooting competitively. I began motocross racing, returned to playing basketball recreationally, and even started boxing again (though I couldn't throw a right hand with much conviction without suffering considerable discomfort and had to be pretty creative with the tape and needed help to get a glove on). Today, arthritus is beginning to make both hands the same and my busted up right hand is often overlooked until I have to shake hands. I still shoot left-handed and do OK. I paddle canoes, kayaks, and paddle boards. I can't clap my hands and can't shuffle a deck of cards worth a damn but I can do most everything I want to do. Not usually much worth clapping for anyway!
I think you should have kept some of those pump guns just for the therapeutic benefits of trying to operate them. Good luck and stick with it. GD


Thank you! Thank you! Thank you!

(I did keep the pump guns, but now they're relegated to "loaners" for youth hunts.)


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