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We've been using Bravecto (get from a vet) for years. One chewable lozenge every three months. GOOD for fleas and ticks. No adverse reactions to your dogs.

For in the house with or without carpet we used to get flea bombs from Southern States. Kills live fleas and most importantly their eggs.

Can't tell you the last time we've seen a flea in the house.

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I'll bite. What "squeaking"??

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My bad EZ - trying to qoute this post!

Originally Posted by slymule
WD-40.....it works. Spray your dogs down with it and then just rub it into their coats. Within 30 seconds you'll see fleas come to the surface of their coat and then presto, they fall over dead. Also makes their coat nice and shiny. Another advantage of it is the residue stays on the coat for a couple of weeks. Try it - your dogs will appreciate it. Probably not the best thing if you have inside dogs that like to sleep on the couch instead of their bed. Been using it for 30 years.


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Hmmm. Your dog would also shed water like a duck.

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Get rid of damn dogs and cats, problem solved. I kept my bird dogs on concrete, fleas need dirt to reproduce.

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Originally Posted by WyoCowboy
had a huge flea issue a couple years ago, fenced off a small area of the yard, and sprayed it down, covered the carpets and furniture with 20 mule team borax mixed with salt and dichotomous earth. Set off 3 times as many bug bombs as needed and left the house with the dogs. Took dogs to groomer had them shaved. It was a nightmare that went on for weeks until i did the above.

Would have been a lot easier to just switch them to a raw meat, organ, and bone diet. Fleas completely lose interest in your dogs. They like the sugar in the blood of dogs fed a commercial diet. Take that away, and the fleas will no more infest your dog than they would your coffee table.

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Salmonella,

Fleas have an egg-larva-pupa-adult life cycle. If they get established in your house, the adults you see on your pets are only the tip of the iceberg. The eggs fall off the pets into the carpets and then hatch and go through the larva and pupa stages. To completely rid your home of an infestation, you have to break the lifecycle, meaning use a product (usually an IGR, insect growth regulator) to kill the eggs and larva in addition to something that kills adults. Some products do both and some are combinations of chemicals that will do both. Treating for the adults only with flea baths, dips, etc. that contain pyrethrins/pyrethroids, while very effective against adult insects, will NOT kill the eggs and break the cycle. That is the reason you are still seeing fleas even after multiple flea baths. Also there is a toxicity risk with pyrethrins/pyrethroids if used improperly and for sure don't use them on cats.

My advice to you is to quit dicking around with over the counter products and bite the bullet, spend the money, and go see your vet. They SHOULD have the latest products that are effective against the entire flea lifecycle. Keep in mind that, like Doc Paul said, you will need to treat all the pets in the house(dogs,cats,whatever)even if they don't go outside. This is something that will need to be treated for awhile until ALL the adults, larvae and eggs are killed. For serious infestations, you might need to fog the house as well. Simple frequent vacuuming can help manually remove egg/larva too. Just remember to change bags right away and dispose of the used bag outside of the house somehow. Treating the yard may be a possibility too. I don't know much about that, though. I have heard diatomaceous earth works for that but don't have any experience with environmental treatments for fleas.

Attacking the fleas on all fronts (pets, house, yard) is often required.

Good luck. Hope this helps. Flea infestations are miserable and take a serious effort to clear up.

Last edited by JayJunem; 05/26/17.
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Originally Posted by The_Real_Hawkeye
Originally Posted by WyoCowboy
had a huge flea issue a couple years ago, fenced off a small area of the yard, and sprayed it down, covered the carpets and furniture with 20 mule team borax mixed with salt and dichotomous earth. Set off 3 times as many bug bombs as needed and left the house with the dogs. Took dogs to groomer had them shaved. It was a nightmare that went on for weeks until i did the above.

Would have been a lot easier to just switch them to a raw meat, organ, and bone diet. Fleas completely lose interest in your dogs. They like the sugar in the blood of dogs fed a commercial diet. Take that away, and the fleas will no more infest your dog than they would your coffee table.


Bull. I'm not saying it wont help but to act like a raw diet is the end all to flea problems is naïve at best. You obviously have never skinned many fox or coyotes?

Flea bitten furs some bad enough they are unusable, and/or live fleas on the carcass, is not that uncommon, especially when its not real cold out. What do you think a wild fox or coyote lives off of that was trapped or shot miles away from the nearest house??

Dogs can go years without any fleas just because they didn't start out with them and haven't run into anything where they picked them up. The healthier your dog is the better it can fend off the effects of all sorts of parasites, but If your dog gets a flea infestation I can promise you it will need treated with something other than a hamburger. That's laughable.


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I use granulated Seven in the yard. A dust in the house.(Not Seven) Bravecto is pricey but I used it this time. I will use the horse treatment next time.
Follow inst. on the Seven.


works for me in Blue Lake; Allan

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Bravecto is running us $55 for 3 months. Don't know if I'd go this route for more than one pet but then we haven't had to deal with fleas since we've used it.

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Cheapest Braveto I found ,but you need a script from the vet.
http://www.1800petmeds.com/Bravecto-prod11638.html

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Malathion is your best friends friend.


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Originally Posted by Allan S.
Cheapest Braveto I found ,but you need a script from the vet.
http://www.1800petmeds.com/Bravecto-prod11638.html


I'd save some bucks but I'd have to find a new vet that doesn't sell it to get a script. We have friends from the city who use our vet because of the high cost they have to pay for services. Bet Braveto is high down there.

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ddt, chordane, diazinon, bhc, lindane, dursban, and on and on.

what i want to know is why aren't you negotiating with the various insects to find a way to live in harmony, fair & balanced?


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LOL Had a semi hermit neighbor at one time who was that way. Wouldn't step on a bug let alone use chemicals on them. Our vet told us that she ended up with the same skin ailment her dog had.

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vel, there it is. the dog brought the problem directly to her. wonder why she even had a dog to begin with? without der dog, she might have been safe?


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No lie here. The dog was given to her in prime condition from a city friend of hers as a companion. I wouldn't wish that on any dog.

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Awesome stuff guys...
The 24HCF brain trust is absolutely invaluable....


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Originally Posted by cra1948
3 dogs (only two in the house) and 2 cats, one of which goes outside...we use Advantix on them all monthly, no problems with fleas or ticks. When I had coon hounds and running hounds I washed them down twice a year, spring and mid summer with stuff, forget the name, that's all it took.


Not telling you what to do, but look on the ingredient list on that Advantix. The main ingredient is Permethrin. 44%. Freedom Spot On 45 is 45% Permethrin. You are probably paying in the neighborhood of $10-$15 per dose per month depending where you get it. The Freedom will cost you less than $3 per dose for dogs 33-66lbs, and if you buy it for horses and dose at the dog dose, it will cost you less than $1.50 per month per dog, for dogs 33-66 lbs.


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WD-40?? Pffft!!!

Mehhh, I've moved up to Gumout carb-n-choke cleaner.


Next, I might just try backing over my dogs in the driveway like ol drunk crossfire does.

Last edited by slumlord; 05/26/17.
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