No zero my Mauser scout in for 220s when I hunt in the places we have a lot of big bears, and my lever action M95 Browning is also zeroed with them. I have liked them and used them in the 30-06 since I was in my early 20s. They work very well on everything they hit. I found out years ago that a 220 grain 30-06 penetrates about 2X deeper then a 180 grain 300 mag on elk. I have used 220s ever since in timber, and I also use the that same bullet or the 200 grain Partitions in my 300 now.
Kind of apples and oranges there, but worth considering. Velocity, range, and bullet construction to be considered....
Finn Aaguard's wet telephone book tests found the 180 (in .30-06) to penetrate better than any other load in that caliber. - in that medium, anyway. And I think only C&C, maybe. That could spell some difference.
I don't really understand how you guys are getting all those recovered bullets on game to determine how 200 gr gets 2X times penetration over 180, again on game. A pass thru is a pass thru. I almost never have a bullet stay in game, regardless of caliber and bullet used, if I have executed (pardon the pun) properly. Even with C&C. If the critter goes down, it really doesn't matter.
Then again, I haven't shot as much game as some of you guys, only maybe 130 animals in my lifetime, but I'll go with my own experience every time until it doesn't work.
So should everyone. (On their experience, not mine or someone else's, but useful as starting points, maybe. And fun to compare)
One of the few bullets I have recovered was a 120 gr. Speer C&C out of a .25-06, at about 200 yards, on a big bull caribou, quartering to. The bullet entered at the base of the neck and I found it in the opposite hind leg. Perfect mushroom. A heavy for caliber bullet.
Another was same gun, same handload, on a cow at something over 500 yards. The rifle was sighted 5.5 inches high at 100, MOA. The hold (second shot after I saw where the first one hit in the snow), was just above her upright ears, standing broadside, head up, looking down the hill at me). The bullet centered both front shoulder blades, completely penetrating the blade on the far side, but with the very base still lodged in the bone. Another perfect mushroom. IIRC, these were Speers, handloaded.
Another was again on a big bull caribou, at about 356 yards (paced- I think more like 375, actual). 30-06, 180 C&C, probably Corelokt, clipped the top of his brisket, opening up his heart with a fragment, apparently. Found the jacket wedged in the far knee, no lead.
There are maybe 5 other instances where I've recovered a bullet or parts there-of from game.
I know for a fact that 250 gr. round nose (Hornady), print 3 inches lower at 100 yards than do the 250 gr Sierra GK in my .338. Both are loaded one grain under book max- but I don't recall whether those powder loads are identical or not. The Hornady RN is MOA, the Sierras go right at an inch at 200.... 3 shot groups. Both were "junk loads" just thrown together with no work-up at all. Now I'm stuck with a lifetime supply of those ugly RN, cuz they shoot too well to not hunt with. A moose ain't that hard to hit anyway...not at my 70 yard average for over 20 moose. The Hornady RN drop like a rock farther out, the GK are much flatter.
The only fair way to compare them would be at the same velocities.
When they both properly blow a hole to daylight on game, I can hardly compare penetration factors, and there is no need to on other mediums....
. I generally try to avoid end-to-end shots...especially from the wrong end.
I've only actually used the Hornady RN 250 on one moose. Took the top of his skull right off, at about 30 yards, from the front. No bullet recovered.
He ducked.... that's my story, and I'm sticking to it. It's also true.
I favor the 180, and 165 for the '06. Currently using 150's for longer range (300-500) caribou shooting (Hornady Super-performance). I've no doubt the 200 and 220 grain bullets are real thumpers too, but the 180 has worked so well for me over the years, I've not found need to go heavier than the 180.
Whatever floats your cork is good.