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My goat experience is limited to tagging along on some hunts...as I've never bee able to pull a tag. The goats I did see killed did die easily, but they can wind up in some pretty gnarly spots. Occasionally they can and do fall off cliffs and (rarely) at times can take a full day to get over to. I'm generally an armpit shooter but my advice is to anchor them with a shoulder shot with whatever rifle you take.

As far as a rifle, the 300 Win Mag would be just fine but unnecessary. Since it seems you're willing to spend for quality, you may want to look at an Andriondak or Ascent, or possibly a Rem ti of some sort in 7-08, 6.5 Creed or something similar. I wouldn't touch another tikka of any flavor with 'Flaves cock. For bullets anything you'd use for deer would be just fine for goats.



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There is nothing wrong with having two .270s. Or three .30-06, three .223s, four .30-30s, or five .22s. Makes ammo selections simple. As to the .270, one is a heavyweight pre-war standard M 70, and the other is a fairly light switch barrel job.

Jack


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Originally Posted by T_Inman
I wouldn't touch another tikka of any flavor with 'Flaves cock.


Is that how he pulls the trigger? Why so down on Tikka's?



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8 I like your original choice best!!


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Might also want to consider the Barrett Fieldcraft in 6.5 Creedmoor. That would be my choice.

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Originally Posted by jwall
hiaring -

Another suggestion per Goat Rifle & Hunting.

First I've never hunted goats BUT I've read a LOT about it. One thing stood out is, Goat Guides & Experienced Goat hunters said,

"most hunters use TOO heavy or stout constructed bullets. Goats are NOT thick nor heavy muscled. Don't OVER bullet."

Just passing along a suggestion from reliable sources.


Jerry


There is a big difference between a 100 lb 2 year old and a 350 lb mature billy, an older billy is built like a tank and has solid bone structure. Most of the time they go down pretty quick when hit correctly but sometimes they can soak up the lead and not go down very easily. If you hit them poorly you can have a real mess on your hands.

From my time guiding for them and hunting them with friends I put the 30-06 near the top of the list, I forgot about the 7mm Rem Mag Steelhead mentioned for some reason but it is great too. Lots of bullets work great of course but I'm partial to the Accubonds, they open up fast but still are tough enough to penetrate well if needed In the 30-06 either one of the 150-165 gr Accubonds or similar would be perfect although I did shoot a goat with the 180 gr version in a 30-06 that worked well...............


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Originally Posted by Pittu
LOL, ever see what a goat looks like under the hide??? Apparently not...

Of all the rifles I own, I normally grab the 338 WM just for the smash crash factor, although the 308 Tikka T3 got taken on my last goat hunt. A 270 would be fine with the right trigger nut. Lighter is good, if you can swing it, and a 300 WM in a T3 wouldn't be a wrong answer.



I have seen them shot with everything from a 260 Rem to 9.3x62 and not surprisingly they all work fine. The guy I guided for really liked the 338 WM for goats and liked some of the bigger 300 magnums. This year I'm going to carry my 35 Whelen with 200 gr Accubonds again, it's the lightest gun I own and will work great if we run into a grizzly. Have yet to shoot a goat with the Whelen so really hope it happens this year smile

Edit to add, I goats are one animal I like something a bit more powerful like a 30-06 or bigger but the one I shot with the 260 Rem died quick.


Last edited by gerry35; 07/01/17.

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Originally Posted by smokepole
Originally Posted by T_Inman
I wouldn't touch another tikka of any flavor with 'Flaves cock.


Is that how he pulls the trigger? Why so down on Tikka's?


I doubt it since he has stated his interest in a T3. It would likely be fine for what the OP wants one for, but I can't stand the look, feel and function of them.

They feel like a kid's toy, have way too much plastic on them, haven't been nearly as accurate (for me) as they seem to be for others, and aren't throated like I prefer. I've had a few, and instantly regretted buying them with no seller's remorse as I got rid of them ASAP. As always, other's experience and opinions may vary.




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Originally Posted by gerry35



I have seen them shot with everything from a 260 Rem to 9.3x62 and not surprisingly they all work fine. The guy I guided for really liked the 338 WM for goats and liked some of the bigger 300 magnums. This year I'm going to carry my 35 Whelen with 200 gr Accubonds again, it's the lightest gun I own and will work great if we run into a grizzly. Have yet to shoot a goat with the Whelen so really hope it happens this year smile

Edit to add, I goats are one animal I like something a bit more powerful like a 30-06 or bigger but the one I shot with the 260 Rem died quick.



Most mountain hunts I do involve traveling through brown bear country, the 338WM just feels right from start to finish, even if it is a bit heavy...I did just pick up a Lightweight Hunter in 6.5 CM that I got for mountain hunting


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I wouldn't go with the .300 or any other mag. I would probably look into a short action actually. Possibly the .260 rem, or a 7mm-08, on a synthetic, stainless, lightweight, short rifle. Yep, that sounds about right...
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When I draw a goat tag I'll be packing my Kimber MT 84L in 270. It has its barrel shortened to 22.5". About as perfect a sheep/goat gun as I can imagine.


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Cartridges I've used or seen used to kill goats

30/06, 280 Rem, 270 Win, 300 Wthby, 6mm/284, 7mm RM.

Worse kill, was the guy that 'hump' shot a goat with the 300 Wthby, it was a right proper goat roping.


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The .280 would be my pick of that litter.

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Originally Posted by Cougarz
A lighter .270 would work just fine.

Shots aren't usually long. In fact you will be surprised at how close they can be.


This would be my 1st choice, 2nd would be a 7mm-08.

As far as bullets, there are a whole bunch from 120 to 160gr that would work from the mono's to the target style hunting bullets at normal hunting ranges. It will be harder to find a bullet that does not work.

Long range shooting will require a slippery bullet and a whole lot more trigger time.


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Ive hunted sheep with a kimber montana in 308. Its always worked but I havnt shot a goat with it before, I would though.

I recently fell into a good deal on a kimber mountain ascent in 270 and I wouldnt hesitate to take that either. For a loooong time, All I had was a 270, I wanted to use my money to pay for hunts rather than new toys and that 270 worked perfectly for about a decade on moose, sheep (dall, barbary), elk and all sorts of deer. Lots of people tried telling me that I needed a better gun but I was having way more success on my hunts than any of them were.

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If I were going to buy instead of build it would be one of these.
http://www.winchesterguns.com/produ...tion/model-70-featherweight-compact.html
http://www.winchesterguns.com/produ...t-production/model-70-featherweight.html

Orhttp://www.ruger-firearms.com/products/HawkeyeCompact/specSheets/37140.html?buy=1

Last edited by szihn; 07/02/17.
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Originally Posted by jwall
Originally Posted by Steelhead
Originally Posted by jwall
hiaring -

Another suggestion per Goat Rifle & Hunting.

First I've never hunted goats BUT I've read a LOT about it. One thing stood out is, Goat Guides & Experienced Goat hunters said,

"most hunters use TOO heavy or stout constructed bullets. Goats are NOT thick nor heavy muscled. Don't OVER bullet."

Just passing along a suggestion from reliable sources.


Jerry



Brilliant.


There you go again: S H .

[Linked Image]

I said, "I've never hunted goats" !! What I posted came from Goat/Sheep Guides PLUS hunters that have killed them. THEY said it doesn't take a HEAVY or STOUT constructed bullet. Too many Xs there are pass thrus w/o sufficient expansion.
Take it or not FROM THEM.

I'm out.

Jerry


Skinned more than a few goats and worked bone from them... the only NA game I have found with harder bone is caribou... but goat bone is significantly thicker-walled! And they are built solid! TTSX is all one needs and their comments against them is a comment more on the toughness of goats coupled with their unique anatomy. Hard to shoot them exactly right when their mop prevents you from seeing the parts.

I would go short action for a light-weight mountain rifle and keep the cartridge down to a 7-08 or similar. Larger cartridges weigh considerably more and are not needed.


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Originally Posted by Pittu
]
Originally Posted by gerry35



I have seen them shot with everything from a 260 Rem to 9.3x62 and not surprisingly they all work fine. The guy I guided for really liked the 338 WM for goats and liked some of the bigger 300 magnums. This year I'm going to carry my 35 Whelen with 200 gr Accubonds again, it's the lightest gun I own and will work great if we run into a grizzly. Have yet to shoot a goat with the Whelen so really hope it happens this year smile

Edit to add, I goats are one animal I like something a bit more powerful like a 30-06 or bigger but the one I shot with the 260 Rem died quick.



Most mountain hunts I do involve traveling through brown bear country, the 338WM just feels right from start to finish, even if it is a bit heavy...I did just pick up a Lightweight Hunter in 6.5 CM that I got for mountain hunting


Never came off a goat or sheep hunt wishing for a heavier rifle... wink

Never heard anyone else fresh off a mountain hunt regretting they did not carry a heavier rifle.


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Originally Posted by Hiaring8
Appreciate all the feedback. I know the capabilites of the 270 win as thats been my primary caliber of choice for deer, elk, shiras moose, black bear, and antelope here in Idaho. I was mainly looking at some other options just so as to not double up and have 2 270's.

Also curious on feedback on the rifle/stock/scope choice. I think a Superlite Tikka in an edge stock should be more than lite enough. Again, this setup may only be used on 1-2 hunts and then put in the safe - thinking a scope at the NF NXS level may be a little overkill?


Tikka would not be on my radar, but that is personal choice...
You do not need a Hubble for a simple mountain rifle and enough weight could be saved to make a significant difference.

Comments about losing 10 pounds off the body to put on the rifle are foolish from the start. There is a huge difference between a pound on the body or attached to a pack and a pound of free weight swinging in the hand. It makes a very big difference.


Mark Begich, Joaquin Jackson, and Heller resistance... Three huge reasons to worry about the NRA.
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Originally Posted by Jordan Smith
Originally Posted by Steelhead
I'd not take a 270WSM over a 270.

If you're worried about shooting far, skip the 270's and 30's and go 6.5mm or 7mm something.


+1

And if you're set on the NF 2.5-10x42 then a SA would be a good choice- 6.5 Creed or 7-08 seem logical. Don't need a cannon to put the hurt on...[




+2.


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