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OK - so I am training, exercising, and otherwise having fun with my new pup,,,,,,she will be 4 months old here in two weeks.

Bouncing the idea of heading north or west (state TBD but likely will head back to where I grew up) to get some early goofing off chasing grouse, woodcock, whatever, Our woodcock season isn't until mid December.

anyhow - looking at end of September, early October.

She will be 6 to 7 months old.

I don't expect much but fun and exercise/ exposure.

am I out of my mind? Is there any down side to that idea?


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I am a novice at bird dog training, but I cannot think of a reason not to expose your dog to wild birds. I say go for it!

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that's kind of what I figure as well - can't see what it could hurt as long as expectations are realistic - thanks


Picture a combination right wing, libertarian, unabomber, nationalist who believes in reverent science and who, to his core, remembers the words he swore to defend the constitution from all enemies, foreign and domestic.....so help me God
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It's good to get your dog exposed to a lot of wild birds in his first years

Ticks and Lyme diseases are an issue early season so take appropriate precautions.

In Michigan WI and Mn wolves have gone after dogs if you plan on hunting up in those areas

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Great idea as long as you know how she will respond off leash. Bud did the same with a Pointer pup years ago in Wisconsin. She was fairly familiar with the come command. She would be fine for a half hour or so and then she took off. She always came back, but it was would be and hour or two later. Then it may repeat. One morning he let her out and down the dirt road she went and ignored his call. That's when he finally lit her up. She tested him again and got it again. He isn't the kind to shock his Dog all that much, but eventually, she would have been gone. She came around fairly quickly after that.

Last edited by battue; 07/12/17.

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I always have an e collar on dog use beep mode


My dog listens well but it is always good to have back up if near a road, porcupine etc

Last Oct I pulled over 40 ticks off my dog in NW WI woods. They were bad. I put her on an oral treatment before hunting there

You'll have a great time and memories first season with your dog

Last edited by ribka; 07/12/17.
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Thanks everybody


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You might hit a shooting range and see how the dog responds to gunfire. Some dogs simply WILL NOT come around. Most will. (I don't hunt bird dogs either, but we do train dogs.)


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A shooting range is about the worst place for a Dogs introduction to gunfire and loud noise. Load noise introduction is best done in the house. Bang pans when they are eating and ignore what is going on is probably one of the best beginnings. Out in the yard when they are preoccupied the same. Yell for no reason while ignoring them. Gunfire is down the list for introduction to sharp noise.

Done correctly you don't see how a Dog responds to gunfire, you pretty much know how he will respond.

Last edited by battue; 07/12/17.

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Yeh, you want your dog well accustomed to the sound of a shotgun before season begins,

I start with live birds, get his prey drive going first for a few weeks then introduce a pellet gun or blank gun and shoot 20 to 30 yards away before retrieval and slowly over a month or so a .22 cal rifle then to a shotgun from a distance when you know the dog is fine. I use food reward this phase. never ever just start shooting over a dog or expose to gun fire who has not been slowly acclimated.

Loudly clapping hands when they eat, pans is good too. As much exposure to different sights and sounds at young age. If dog freaks start back at the beginning of training

Do it slowly over a few months

have fun

Last edited by ribka; 07/13/17.
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As mentioned, having the pup reliably and appropriately respond to the "come" and "whoa/stop" commands in many various conditions (not just the house and yard but also the park, local woods and fields, etc.) is very important. I have recovered over a dozen dogs that have become separated and lost from their owners. There were many more signs of dogs that were not found.

At 6-7 month your pup will be at the edge of wanting to explore and will have the physical ability to out run you if it desires. Control is extremely important as you want the dog to explore and it will be confident enough to do so if you properly introduced the pup to the world. I would recommend a loud bell (they work while the dog moves giving a good idea of where it is) and a beeper as it will then work if the dog stops(many dogs will freeze when they think they are lost and a significant number will not bark) to keep track of your dog. A check cord may not be a bad idea as it will slow the pup and give you a better handle if the pup becomes unruly.

As for introducing to the gun, a gun range is a terrible idea. Similar to others, I start with a cap gun while the dog is out running around having fun away from you. Ignore the noise, act as if nothing happened until the pup resumes normal activities. Repeat once more if the dog shows no concern over noise. Do this a couple times a day getting closer to the pup as it becomes accustomed to the noise.

Do the same with a 22 starter pistol and shotgun as dog becomes used to the noise. If possible, adding a dog already broke to gunfire can add assurance to the pup when pup is exposed to loud noise.

I do not introduce gunfire with birds as it is a major problem if the dog associates birds and gunfire with a bad experience. Do each separately then bring together. That brings up another point, don't even bother to carry a gun at this age while in the woods. Concentrate on the pup and what it is doing and that pup is doing things correctly. If you carry a gun you will at some point become more concerned with shooting than training. What you do at this point will shape what happens for the next decade or more so it is up to you if you want it spent fighting problems or not.

I seldom shoot over a pup less than 8 months old during hunting season and even then it is mostly someone I trust to do as I want handling the gun as I handle the dog. I look at the first year of hunting as a training session with the unpredictability of where birds are added in. A pup this age may have upwards a couple dozen training birds shot over it as well as many times more release pigeons and quail. I live on a small bit of acreage which allows me to do this but when I lived in town I still found a day or two a week to get the pup on birds. It meant buying a couple quail per week but I did a lot more with feral pigeons caught from under bridges. If used within 10 miles of where caught, the pigeons will return to be used again. I trained several dogs in that manner and I think they ended up better than then ones I train after moving.

Best of luck on your pup!

Oh, I suggest joining a training club too. The added help and knowledge will be invaluable to you. I have mostly pointing dogs and found NAVHDA to be very good as there are many very active chapters spread around and the members tended to be hunters too so they did not concentrate on trialing only. If you have a flusher or retriever you are on your own for groups as I am not familiar with any on the national level, just a couple of local groups.

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I appreciate all the input,,,my first "bird dog" but not my first dog,,,,have hunted coonhounds, beagles, and labs for 40 years,,,,,,

gun range - no

control - yeap, already working that - she and I have the advantage of nice areas to ramble, train, and gain exposure,,,,woods, fields, ponds, streams, other dogs, kids, adults, etc etc

working her main areas right now (hunt, control, obedience, tracking, etc) but in short bursts three- four times a day (I have the advantage of working from home most days)

training club - yeap, been to the local VDD oriented training days (member) and joined NAVHDA so I can join the chapter here as well,,,,,,exposure exposure

don't expect to actually kill anything if I do go - it's more to train, do some scouting for future years, and have fun

I like to see the country, and currently can't do the big game boondoggles I used to do, so looking at this

thanks for all the input, feedback and recommendations - I really appreciate it


Picture a combination right wing, libertarian, unabomber, nationalist who believes in reverent science and who, to his core, remembers the words he swore to defend the constitution from all enemies, foreign and domestic.....so help me God
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good advice here!

and i teach the dog

'leave it" command when a rabbit ,deer, skunk, stray dog or dangerous situation is encountered during hunting


looking forward to your report on new dog


Originally Posted by woodmaster81
As mentioned, having the pup reliably and appropriately respond to the "come" and "whoa/stop" commands in many various conditions (not just the house and yard but also the park, local woods and fields, etc.) is very important. I have recovered over a dozen dogs that have become separated and lost from their owners. There were many more signs of dogs that were not found.

At 6-7 month your pup will be at the edge of wanting to explore and will have the physical ability to out run you if it desires. Control is extremely important as you want the dog to explore and it will be confident enough to do so if you properly introduced the pup to the world. I would recommend a loud bell (they work while the dog moves giving a good idea of where it is) and a beeper as it will then work if the dog stops(many dogs will freeze when they think they are lost and a significant number will not bark) to keep track of your dog. A check cord may not be a bad idea as it will slow the pup and give you a better handle if the pup becomes unruly.

As for introducing to the gun, a gun range is a terrible idea. Similar to others, I start with a cap gun while the dog is out running around having fun away from you. Ignore the noise, act as if nothing happened until the pup resumes normal activities. Repeat once more if the dog shows no concern over noise. Do this a couple times a day getting closer to the pup as it becomes accustomed to the noise.

Do the same with a 22 starter pistol and shotgun as dog becomes used to the noise. If possible, adding a dog already broke to gunfire can add assurance to the pup when pup is exposed to loud noise.

I do not introduce gunfire with birds as it is a major problem if the dog associates birds and gunfire with a bad experience. Do each separately then bring together. That brings up another point, don't even bother to carry a gun at this age while in the woods. Concentrate on the pup and what it is doing and that pup is doing things correctly. If you carry a gun you will at some point become more concerned with shooting than training. What you do at this point will shape what happens for the next decade or more so it is up to you if you want it spent fighting problems or not.

I seldom shoot over a pup less than 8 months old during hunting season and even then it is mostly someone I trust to do as I want handling the gun as I handle the dog. I look at the first year of hunting as a training session with the unpredictability of where birds are added in. A pup this age may have upwards a couple dozen training birds shot over it as well as many times more release pigeons and quail. I live on a small bit of acreage which allows me to do this but when I lived in town I still found a day or two a week to get the pup on birds. It meant buying a couple quail per week but I did a lot more with feral pigeons caught from under bridges. If used within 10 miles of where caught, the pigeons will return to be used again. I trained several dogs in that manner and I think they ended up better than then ones I train after moving.

Best of luck on your pup!

Oh, I suggest joining a training club too. The added help and knowledge will be invaluable to you. I have mostly pointing dogs and found NAVHDA to be very good as there are many very active chapters spread around and the members tended to be hunters too so they did not concentrate on trialing only. If you have a flusher or retriever you are on your own for groups as I am not familiar with any on the national level, just a couple of local groups.


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