Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Custom Rifles & Wildcats Mauser 98 resources

Hi,

My wife's father gave me a sporterized (project) BCD marked M98 rifle that belonged to his father. My FIL's father passed away last summer and I'd like to complete the project but I know nothing about Mausers. Is there a good resource to look at for help in customizing a M98?

I have a general idea of what I'd like done but I'd like to do some research before approaching a smith.

My main questions are:

It's been drilled and tapped but I guess the stripper clip guide was in the way of the mount they used so they ground the mount to fit. Is the better solution to mill off the guide (hump)?

There is some pitting along the wood line, I have pictures I can post but can the pitting be polished out? Will it affect the action strength?

I'd like to rebarrel to 9.3x62, is there any issues with going to that chambering? Will the stock recoil lug be fine?

I have several more questions but that's a start.

Thanks in advance for any answers to my questions or pointing me in the right direction.

First off, I would recommend a copy of Mauser Bolt Action shop manual by Jerry Kuhnhausen. It's a great resource, and covers Mauser 91-98 actions. The book contains cut away drawings and lots of pictures to help explain the features of Mauser actions. The book also shows machine set ups and procedures for working on these actions. The last section is devoted specifically to sporterizing Mausers. You can buy it from Brownells, Midway or Amazon.

The first question you asked was in regard to the stripper clip hump/guide and a scope. Ordinarily, I hate seeing the clip charger hump taken off. It is a unique Mauser feature that can never be put back once it's taken off. Because the hump has already been partially ground away on your action, your best bet is to have it milled off completely. This is a a straight forward process that will give you a nice clean surface for mounting a scope base. It will also open up more options to you for different types of scope bases. Since the action is already drilled and tapped make sure the holes are lined up correctly and look for a scope ring base that matches the hole spacing.

The second question was about the pitting below the wood line. There will be some that say if it's below the wood, don't worry about it because no one will see it. However a better choice is to have the action surface ground. In this process the action is cleaned up quite nicely and any pitting is mostly removed. If the pitting is deep, its possible that the grinding will not remove it entirely. None of this will effect action strength.

In regards to the 9.3x62. It will work just fine through a standard Mauser action. The actions feed rails may possibly need to be opened up. Find some dummy rounds and cycle them through the action to see if they work. Part of this will also depend on what bottom metal you have. The factory Mauser recoil lug will be just fine..IF...it is well fitted into the stock. If not , some glass bedding compound should be used. The recoil lug needs solid contact of the rear facing edge in order to do it's job.

Hope all that helps.

I'm glad your starting with an Action that has already been modified. That is the best way to go. There are plenty of actions on the market already modified that can be built into a good custom rifle. I really hate when a fellow says " Hey look at this great clean Mauser action I just bought"!.......They find a nice original survivor and then go and grind off the clip charger hump, drill and tap it ect. ect. Leave the surviving originals alone.

Theres good reason why people choose to begin with an umolested action.

Ive seen many pre-modified hack job efforts on actions that I would not choose to begin a project on.
when the action is still original there are no unwelcome surprises and no time-money spent attempting
to correct anothers half- assed efforts or screw ups.

If one is supposed to just own an original action and not use it as desired, then better just donate it
to a museum.

Thanks for the reply!

I saw that book online today and almost picked it up.

The clip charger hump was untouched, who ever drilled and tapped the rear took a cheap weaver base and ground it to fit the hump. I'll post a picture in this thread when I figure out the new system. For now here's the gallery, the flash made it look in much worse condition than it currently is https://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/galleries/12193786/m98-ttb

Actually the pictures make it look pretty terrible now that im viewing them from my computer monitor and not my phone. Its not nearly that bad looking.

Also there is a picture of the side that shows a couple holes that I'm not sure what they're for but you can also see the pitting.

Thank you for answering my questions!

Those holes would be for a receiver sight, I think, but can't explain the two different sizes. Also, it looks like somebody filed or ground the rear of the bridge, maybe to clear a replacement bolt handle, but it's crudely done. Gotta think the old boy was an do-it-yourselfer. Not sure if that's pitting or simply machine marks, not uncommon below the stock line.

If it were me, I'd move on to something else, but can understand the family connection here. Almost anything can be fixed, at a price, but at current labor rates, fixing stuff like extra or crooked holes adds up in a hurry. Good, commercial Mausers can be had starting around $400 on Gunbroker that don't need to be altered or corrected, except to satisfy your notions and taste.

BTW, they make bases to clear the clip hump.

I have a hard time trying to keep my wording brief, so I apologise in advance...As Pappy348 pointed out already, the holes on the side of the action were probably for a peep sight. The holes should not be different sizes. The grinding that was done to rear bridge needs to be fixed for sure before you go any further.

A metalsmith that is good with a TIG welder and milling machine can repair the rear bridge and fill the screw holes on the side of the action . It would be best to have a new bolt handle welded on at the same time. These things will make a huge improvement. It will cost you some money, but building a custom Mauser isn't cheap.

I would recommend that you do things one piece at a time as money allows rather than skimping. It will make a big difference with how happy you are with the finished product. Nowadays, you can buy a super accurate and very reliable rifle right off the shelf for under $500. So attempting building a cheap/budget Mauser makes little sense. If you spend the time and money wisely building a custom rifle, you'll end up with something much nicer that can be found on the shelf.


Go to the ACGG website. There you can find plenty of talented metalsmiths and stockmakers and view examples of their work.

Don't think that's pitting, probably just machine marks. Good smith should be able to clean up that rear bridge. I'd say why not build it? I'd get a M70 safety from Jim Kobe and go from there. Don't see any reason why it wouldn't make a very serviceable rifle.

Compare the region of the actions bolt camming geometry with that of an unmolested M98:

http://media.liveauctiongroup.net/i/9640/10487278_4.jpg?v=8CDC8383E41C750

spending money to fix a dogs breakfast has never made sense to me....but if you find a smith short on work orders,
he might be glad to watch you keep your wallet open just to get the action back to credible normal, then add the custom work.

If you were attempting to repair a rare Kurz or Oberndorf magnum mauser that had been hacked or bodged,
my view would be different.

Thanks everyone for the replies, very interesting to see everyone's view point.

I'm not trying to build a budget rifle nor am I wanting a master piece. I just want a rifle I can hunt with. My wife and I don't have large families and we've had our fair share of family member pass away recently so I'd like to have a rifle I can use in the field and remember. If it costs $500-$600 in action work before I order a barrel, stock or finish I'm fine with that. I just want a project that is doable and safe which is why I made my post originally.

Again, thanks everyone for your experience and opinions.

I have 7 mauser sporters. All cost me different amounts depending on what was needed to make them serviceable. Cheapest was a true bubba job mil stock was cut and then shaped. The sights knocked off and replaced with a williams front ramp and peep sight. Got it for 75 bucks a couple of weeks ago. Another started with a vz-24 action that had the bolt bent and was drilled and taped for a scope. Purchased it from a local gun shop for I think 150 bucks. Found a 8mm-06ai barrel on ebay 100 bucks. Bought a houge over molded stock amazon 120$. Gunsmith put it together 250 bucks(he had to rent the reamers and go/no go gauges). All done $620 then bases and rings. so I'm in for $700. Then add dies and others stuff I'm $800+ or -. The total adds up fast and that gun hasn't had any beatifying treatment. Looking back on that one I might have went 35 whelen. Easy to get factory ammo, cheap dies, etc. I have bought other already finished for around 400+ dollars. You will spend more getting the parts and having them put together. Although it is a really good feeling when it is done and you go to the range the first time. Most expensive is my Neidner in 7mm mauser. A true classic. TexTbag it is only money and time. Spend enough of both and you could have a super nice rifle. M8x57

TBag,

I didn't realise how important its sentimental value really is to you till your latest post, and although life has taught me to
be more pragmatic and less sentimental (about material things) I don't want to discourage you from doing what truly
pleases you the most. I cant measure what you feel, so how could I put a money value on it, that would be foolish of me.
I was a bit brash , but no offence intended.

Starman,

No offense taken but thank you for your post. I too am not sentimental about material things normally, except for some pictures of my kids and family there really isn't much "stuff" that would effect me if it was gone. I've had good fortune with work and while I don't like to waste money, an occasional splurge won't hurt.

Now I just need to convince myself I need a 9.3x62 instead of a 7x64 brenneke.

Depends what you want to hunt. The 7x64 is more or less equivalent to the .280 Remington. The 9.3x62 is just below a .375 H&H.

If you shoot factory ammunition, you have more options available in the 9.3x62.

Thanks, its more of an internal struggle. I reload for all center fire rifles I own and I'm familiar with the cartridges. Would like to go to Africa in the next 5 years for PG.

I have plenty of overlap for the 7x64 I just don't have anything bigger than a 338/06AI but I really don't need anything bigger, just figured if I was going to build a M98, might as well go with a medium bore classic round.

Actually, if you're going on a PG hunt (or PG and leopard), your .338/06AI will do you just fine.

But then, when you get the itch for a new rifle/build, sometimes you just gotta scratch it....

Ancientgunsmith's 2 cents....... Tex, something to help you make your decision on rifle build. You say an African hunt in your future. Unless things have changed since about 1999 the minimum caliber for African plains game is the 9.3 x 62 as was stated in game laws. Otherwise its a 375 H n H or 376 Styer or one of the newer 375 commercial cartridges. In some cases a very capable wildcat is not allowed unless it was tested and/or published ballistics are available, You are much better off with standardized caliber just to be safe. You can write the Game Dept of each country you plan to hunt. Probably only a couple I'd consider today with all the terrorist groups operating throughout that continent,
You can't go wrong with the 9.3, lots of good bullets and cases plentiful. If you know your powders and the action tight and magnafluxed, barrel high quality and properly fitted the 9.3 can be pushed by an experienced handloader and some of the newer powders. Of course the loads are carefully worked up and are for only that rifle.
Otherwise you got some good information from the others The 7x 57 in a GOOD custom gun can also equal the factory 7x64 with less recoil and muzzle blast. Not as bad as 7mm Rem. but more than Mauser,
Factory ammo and cases availability would be most people's concern
whatever the caliber the old 98 is a workhouse. Well done custom 98 will shoot with most of the high dollar custom guns. If a rifle I put together didn't group less than .75 moa it didn't get out of the shop
Maybe some of you are not aware of the accuracy of rifles made in the past few years. Those guns are made on CNC equipment which minimizes any human error in the completed gun. Most, especially the Mossberg Patriots and similar are at least as accurate as 95% of custom guns. I hate that being true but it is and I have tested several of those guns. All shoot at least 1/2 MOA that I've benched. The Ruger American I find a little less and Savage's bargain guns also less accurate. Savage on the 110 family of actions were for years, in my experience the most accurate off the shelf rifles.
Sorry maybe this is a nickel's worth.
Ancietgunsmith
55 years building rifles
20 years an Aviation Metalsmith

Is it just an action, or is it barreled?


Okie John

Thanks for your experience Ancientgunsmith. I don't plan on hunting dangerous game and as someone else has said, I'm just scratching an inch. Good brass is available for both and the x62 and 7x64 and I'll stock up on brass.

I know what you mean by some of the newer actions being very accurate. I've never tried the Mossberg but my Ruger Predator in chassis has been accurate so far.

Okie, it's a barreled action with a military barrel that's been trimmed.

If you reload, there's a whole lot right with an 8x57...it's what your rifle was designed around and the bullet selection has improved greatly in the last few years.

I had a Byf 43 98 action partially converted with low bolt handle and adjustable trigger for many years. The rifle was being finished out recently. The gunsmith installed a Leupold rear base that fit over the clip hump. That base is a current item. To grind down the hump is an act of desecration. It's not necessary.