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Originally Posted by mathman
If you have the reticle sharply focused then it's because the eyepiece is doing a good job of getting it right for your eye. That's its job.

When the parallax adjustment affects what you see as the image focus it means it is optically moving it away from the reticle. Since your eye is properly focused on the reticle, and your eye can't simultaneously focus at two distances, the image looks out of focus. It's the parallax adjustment's job to move the image to the same optical spot as the reticle.

So first look at a non target, like a clear sky. Focus the reticle using the eyepiece. Leave that alone. Now when you aim at a target you minimize parallax by using the adjustable objective, side focus, or whatever the parallax adjustment mechanism is for your scope.



Yes. I point at a wall in the house, I don't care about the image, just the reticle and focus the reticle and I have the parallax set at infinity. Once the reticle is CRISP, I set the parallax to a setting that meets what I'm, but say for around here, it's at 100.

Everything is clear as a bell, but not as much further away. If I have the parallax set for infinity at aim at something 70 yards away, the object is out of focus, but the reticle is still sharp.

I find pointing at a wall works a little better than the sky, YMMV.


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Rough estimate, buck was about 65-70 yard (+/-). I'd set the parallax at what I thought was about 125 yards (parallax adjustment has no yardage markings - I need to tape some on it). Power was set at 6x. Little twisting on the parallax and the image sharped up so that twigs could be picked out.

Did quite a bit of playing with it after that and found that scope's image focus to be very sensitive to the parallax setting. All I had done with it previously was 100 yard zero/set stop, dialed/adjusted parallax and shot 200, dialed/adjusted parallax and shot 300....so I'd not spent much time with it.

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I should add that the reticle was focused with parallax set to infinity. The reticle never lost focus, only the image.

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I think you're hunting like me, mostly and I have them set at 100 yards or a tick under and everything is in focus under that, within the parameters of scope power.

You know, some sheit is gonna be out of focus, no matter what, with a 6x at 15 feet...

I just walked outside the my 6x SWAF, parallax set at 100 and everything was fine for seeing through the trees at 40 yards.


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Originally Posted by JCMCUBIC
Rough estimate, buck was about 65-70 yard (+/-). I'd set the parallax at what I thought was about 125 yards (parallax adjustment has no yardage markings - I need to tape some on it). Power was set at 6x. Little twisting on the parallax and the image sharped up so that twigs could be picked out.

Did quite a bit of playing with it after that and found that scope's image focus to be very sensitive to the parallax setting. All I had done with it previously was 100 yard zero/set stop, dialed/adjusted parallax and shot 200, dialed/adjusted parallax and shot 300....so I'd not spent much time with it.



What scope?


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Originally Posted by Steelhead
I think you're hunting like me, mostly and I have them set at 100 yards or a tick under and everything is in focus under that, within the parameters of scope power.

You know, some sheit is gonna be out of focus, no matter what, with a 6x at 15 feet...

I just walked outside the my 6x SWAF, parallax set at 100 and everything was fine for seeing through the trees at 40 yards.


Yep, I'd never had the issue with SWFA 6x's I have and was expecting the same with this scope...but it's noticeably different. Kinda like the difference in depth of field that I've seen in some binoculars. Maybe this scope is more exact/precise...but I'd prefer it not be so finicky.

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Nightforce NSX 2.5-10x42

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So the parallax adjustment has no yardage marks. I guess look look at something at 70 yards away and adjust it and mark it as you said.

I guess people killing scopes have a little different set of parameters than for shooting deer at 70 yards.


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No people killing for me but I do think it could be used to beat someone to death.

I thought the lack of yardage markings was odd but I'll get a temporary tattoo set up for it in the off season.

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Let's say you wanted to 6x MO-MO Fixed Fhuqker a HW97 this mornin',just to give it a fair shake(MQ's rule) and timed it with a fresh Lot of pellets to coincide the shift. The astute will savvy from the get-go,that it ain't gonna get a 250yd zero...but if only to stay the course,all parallax is scribed to jive with said platform's zero. Such things tend to correlate in their hasty extrapolations and connect more than a few dots. Hint.

Firstly,simply focus reticle against good light and a nicely contrasting background. Simply pin said setting in place,with Whiner Tape(3M adds 27fps to the equation). This is a (1) time setting adjustment,until one's eyes change in their relative acuity.

Nextly,pin the 'shade into place,if only to keep a long running inside joke rollin'. Then simply scribe the parallax in accords to said platform's zero. Hint.

[Linked Image]

Only move remaining,is to snug up the works,gun zero,set zero stop and install No Fret. Hint.

[Linked Image]

Of course zero/parallax scribed setting will differ,even in like chamberings,though differing twist rates/BC's...but constants is constants. A few getting ready to make the leap to the crummy this morning. Hint.

[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]

Magnification very much plays a role in requisite Parallax Jugglin',as a 6x Fixed Fhuqker is farrrrrrrrrrrr more forgiving than a 10,12 or 16x(unfortunately I shoot 'em all). With a 6x and a shred of sense,one will likely never haveta' dabble/chase parallax on a centerfire,until in Beaver Dope range. The rear focus is fast,finite,forgiving and fhuqking handy +P+. Hint.

6X MQ for Utility and if you must...10x MQ for Play. Never "forget",that ALL erector travel below zero,is 100% fhuqking useless. 27MOA on a unitized Springer Mount is nice,but I prefer 75MOA rails and the like. Hint.

But NEVER MO-MO a Grayboe...as that is bad JUJU! Hint. Laffin'!


[Linked Image]


I should prolly shoot some Mind Fhuqk Footage for The Windowlickers this mornin',stretchin' more than a few 6x MQ's welllllllllllll beyond "wayyyyyy out there".

You've been led to water.

Just sayin'.

Hint.

Film at 11:00.



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Originally Posted by JCMCUBIC
No people killing for me but I do think it could be used to beat someone to death.

I thought the lack of yardage markings was odd but I'll get a temporary tattoo set up for it in the off season.

Not the first time I've heard that the NXS 2.5-10x42 has finicky parallax adjustment...

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Originally Posted by Jordan Smith
Originally Posted by JCMCUBIC
No people killing for me but I do think it could be used to beat someone to death.

I thought the lack of yardage markings was odd but I'll get a temporary tattoo set up for it in the off season.

Not the first time I've heard that the NXS 2.5-10x42 has finicky parallax adjustment...



Yep, she be a picky hussy....usable, but picky. I do love the illumination at first and last light that NF did with the IHR. I've got a Calendar Buck I'm a little infatuated with that is a shy guy. I keep hoping he'll mess up at first or last and the NF illumination could be the difference. Only 1 week left for him to make a mistake......

As Stick alluded, my zero and parallax default setting is short and the 6x SWFA has been a nice fit for that use with a lot of leeway on parallax from near to far. I shouldn't have jumped into the NF (even with it set at the same 6x) with the SWFA preconceptions in mind...they ain't all the same, at some point I'll remember that. Should have ironed things out with it ahead of time and that's nobody's fault but mine.

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Originally Posted by Boxer
Let's say you wanted to 6x MO-MO Fixed Fhuqker a HW97 this mornin',just to give it a fair shake(MQ's rule) and timed it with a fresh Lot of pellets to coincide the shift. The astute will savvy from the get-go,that it ain't gonna get a 250yd zero...but if only to stay the course,all parallax is scribed to jive with said platform's zero. Such things tend to correlate in their hasty extrapolations and connect more than a few dots. Hint.

Firstly,simply focus reticle against good light and a nicely contrasting background. Simply pin said setting in place,with Whiner Tape(3M adds 27fps to the equation). This is a (1) time setting adjustment,until one's eyes change in their relative acuity.

Nextly,pin the 'shade into place,if only to keep a long running inside joke rollin'. Then simply scribe the parallax in accords to said platform's zero. Hint.

[Linked Image]

Only move remaining,is to snug up the works,gun zero,set zero stop and install No Fret. Hint.

[Linked Image]

Of course zero/parallax scribed setting will differ,even in like chamberings,though differing twist rates/BC's...but constants is constants. A few getting ready to make the leap to the crummy this morning. Hint.

[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]

Magnification very much plays a role in requisite Parallax Jugglin',as a 6x Fixed Fhuqker is farrrrrrrrrrrr more forgiving than a 10,12 or 16x(unfortunately I shoot 'em all). With a 6x and a shred of sense,one will likely never haveta' dabble/chase parallax on a centerfire,until in Beaver Dope range. The rear focus is fast,finite,forgiving and fhuqking handy +P+. Hint.

6X MQ for Utility and if you must...10x MQ for Play. Never "forget",that ALL erector travel below zero,is 100% fhuqking useless. 27MOA on a unitized Springer Mount is nice,but I prefer 75MOA rails and the like. Hint.

But NEVER MO-MO a Grayboe...as that is bad JUJU! Hint. Laffin'!


[Linked Image]


I should prolly shoot some Mind Fhuqk Footage for The Windowlickers this mornin',stretchin' more than a few 6x MQ's welllllllllllll beyond "wayyyyyy out there".

You've been led to water.

Just sayin'.

Hint.

Film at 11:00.





Gotcha


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Originally Posted by JCMCUBIC
Originally Posted by Jordan Smith
Originally Posted by JCMCUBIC
No people killing for me but I do think it could be used to beat someone to death.

I thought the lack of yardage markings was odd but I'll get a temporary tattoo set up for it in the off season.

Not the first time I've heard that the NXS 2.5-10x42 has finicky parallax adjustment...



Yep, she be a picky hussy....usable, but picky. I do love the illumination at first and last light that NF did with the IHR. I've got a Calendar Buck I'm a little infatuated with that is a shy guy. I keep hoping he'll mess up at first or last and the NF illumination could be the difference. Only 1 week left for him to make a mistake......

As Stick alluded, my zero and parallax default setting is short and the 6x SWFA has been a nice fit for that use with a lot of leeway on parallax from near to far. I shouldn't have jumped into the NF (even with it set at the same 6x) with the SWFA preconceptions in mind...they ain't all the same, at some point I'll remember that. Should have ironed things out with it ahead of time and that's nobody's fault but mine.


Is it 6 times better than the SWFA?


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Originally Posted by Steelhead
Originally Posted by JCMCUBIC
Originally Posted by Jordan Smith
Originally Posted by JCMCUBIC
No people killing for me but I do think it could be used to beat someone to death.

I thought the lack of yardage markings was odd but I'll get a temporary tattoo set up for it in the off season.

Not the first time I've heard that the NXS 2.5-10x42 has finicky parallax adjustment...



Yep, she be a picky hussy....usable, but picky. I do love the illumination at first and last light that NF did with the IHR. I've got a Calendar Buck I'm a little infatuated with that is a shy guy. I keep hoping he'll mess up at first or last and the NF illumination could be the difference. Only 1 week left for him to make a mistake......

As Stick alluded, my zero and parallax default setting is short and the 6x SWFA has been a nice fit for that use with a lot of leeway on parallax from near to far. I shouldn't have jumped into the NF (even with it set at the same 6x) with the SWFA preconceptions in mind...they ain't all the same, at some point I'll remember that. Should have ironed things out with it ahead of time and that's nobody's fault but mine.


Is it 6 times better than the SWFA?


Not in my opinion. Several things I really like about it and several that irk me for my use, same things may not be an issue for someone else.

Just came in from using it and the SWFA reticle wouldn't have shown up at last legal time for a 200 yard shot across a field to a woodline in the background. Out in the field the SWFA would probably have been usable but the broken woodline in the background kills the SWFA. The NF illumination is perfection for that. Pros/cons like everything....

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Originally Posted by JCMCUBIC
Originally Posted by Steelhead
Originally Posted by JCMCUBIC
Originally Posted by Jordan Smith
Originally Posted by JCMCUBIC
No people killing for me but I do think it could be used to beat someone to death.

I thought the lack of yardage markings was odd but I'll get a temporary tattoo set up for it in the off season.

Not the first time I've heard that the NXS 2.5-10x42 has finicky parallax adjustment...



Yep, she be a picky hussy....usable, but picky. I do love the illumination at first and last light that NF did with the IHR. I've got a Calendar Buck I'm a little infatuated with that is a shy guy. I keep hoping he'll mess up at first or last and the NF illumination could be the difference. Only 1 week left for him to make a mistake......

As Stick alluded, my zero and parallax default setting is short and the 6x SWFA has been a nice fit for that use with a lot of leeway on parallax from near to far. I shouldn't have jumped into the NF (even with it set at the same 6x) with the SWFA preconceptions in mind...they ain't all the same, at some point I'll remember that. Should have ironed things out with it ahead of time and that's nobody's fault but mine.


Is it 6 times better than the SWFA?


Not in my opinion. Several things I really like about it and several that irk me for my use, same things may not be an issue for someone else.

Just came in from using it and the SWFA reticle wouldn't have shown up at last legal time for a 200 yard shot across a field to a woodline in the background. Out in the field the SWFA would probably have been usable but the broken woodline in the background kills the SWFA. The NF illumination is perfection for that. Pros/cons like everything....



Understood.

Do 'we' need a $2000 scope to kill deer at 70 yards?


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Nope.

In several ways it's not as good as what I've been using for years, especially for 70 yard shots in decent light. In other ways, like this evening where I expected to be dialing from 200 to 325 at last light, it's better because of the great job NF did on the illumination...so far that's the only big + for it that others can't match.

If the one I'm waiting on had stepped out (and I did my part) I'd consider it worth the price of admission, so far it's just been an expensive monocular to watch does and "not the one" bucks....

After the season ends I've got several I'm going to spend time switching between killing steel, chasing 'yotes, and sorting out the +/-'s on for my use.

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Originally Posted by Boxer
Let's say you wanted to 6x MO-MO Fixed Fhuqker a HW97 this mornin',just to give it a fair shake(MQ's rule) and timed it with a fresh Lot of pellets to coincide the shift. The astute will savvy from the get-go,that it ain't gonna get a 250yd zero...but if only to stay the course,all parallax is scribed to jive with said platform's zero. Such things tend to correlate in their hasty extrapolations and connect more than a few dots. Hint.

Firstly,simply focus reticle against good light and a nicely contrasting background. Simply pin said setting in place,with Whiner Tape(3M adds 27fps to the equation). This is a (1) time setting adjustment,until one's eyes change in their relative acuity.

Nextly,pin the 'shade into place,if only to keep a long running inside joke rollin'. Then simply scribe the parallax in accords to said platform's zero. Hint.

[Linked Image]

Only move remaining,is to snug up the works,gun zero,set zero stop and install No Fret. Hint.

[Linked Image]

Of course zero/parallax scribed setting will differ,even in like chamberings,though differing twist rates/BC's...but constants is constants. A few getting ready to make the leap to the crummy this morning. Hint.

[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]

Magnification very much plays a role in requisite Parallax Jugglin',as a 6x Fixed Fhuqker is farrrrrrrrrrrr more forgiving than a 10,12 or 16x(unfortunately I shoot 'em all). With a 6x and a shred of sense,one will likely never haveta' dabble/chase parallax on a centerfire,until in Beaver Dope range. The rear focus is fast,finite,forgiving and fhuqking handy +P+. Hint.

6X MQ for Utility and if you must...10x MQ for Play. Never "forget",that ALL erector travel below zero,is 100% fhuqking useless. 27MOA on a unitized Springer Mount is nice,but I prefer 75MOA rails and the like. Hint.

But NEVER MO-MO a Grayboe...as that is bad JUJU! Hint. Laffin'!


[Linked Image]


I should prolly shoot some Mind Fhuqk Footage for The Windowlickers this mornin',stretchin' more than a few 6x MQ's welllllllllllll beyond "wayyyyyy out there".

You've been led to water.

Just sayin'.

Hint.

Film at 11:00.





Boxer, what are you using to cap the windage knobs?

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Scott, you ever get the thing apart AND back together?


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It's tomorrow's project


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