Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Single Shots Last No1 for me

That's Funny

"You can just load one round in a magazine if knowing having only one flips your skirt. If you're gonna carry a single shot, you should only bring one round of ammo with you.

If you are going to carry more than one round of ammo with you, a magazine is a great storage area."

So is a butt cuff. Kind of sounds like if it ain't done your way it shouldn't be done at all. No matter. As the late great Elmer Keith once said, "I believe every man should scratcher his own flea whichever way suits him."
Paul B.

I sent it back as you suggested and WOW what an improvement.
They Repolished the Metal & Reblued it then fit it with a New Forearm & Butstock with Beautiful Fit & Checkering.
I don't use any hosting sites for photo's so if anyone wants to post Photo's for me let me know & i will send them to you.

I guess I will be purchasing more as Funds are available but will be more selective in the future & stick to Older No1's.

Even newer No.1s can be nice if you hand select. Cost waaay less than a new one.

I suspect that ranch has a good reason for their rule. The rest of it, as in how fast you can reload contradicts the whole single shot principle. The fact that Mr Miller was relatively quick at it changes nothing. And the best of choosing, eventually will result in the desire to do it quicker. Fine Groundhog rifles.

"I suspect that ranch has a good reason for their rule. The rest of it, as in how fast you can reload contradicts the whole single shot principle. The fact that Mr Miller was relatively quick at it changes nothing. And the best of choosing, eventually will result in the desire to do it quicker. Fine Groundhog rifles."

I would imagine the rule is because too many hunters can't shoot worth cshit. Present company excluded of course.

So what's the problem with a fast reload? Makes no difference what you're shooting, single shot or repeater. I suppose you take your shot, the deer, elk whatever goes down and you just stand there is awe of your prowess without rechambering another round in your rifle? Somehow I doubt that. So where's the difference?
Paul B.

If you like a single shot, no problem. But let's not suppose what I do. What I can do, if fast is needed is do it faster, and do it every time. When required, fast reloading is not a selling point for single shots.

Drop rifle from shoulder, open, remove from your butt cuff, insert, close and remount. Again, use a single shot if you want, but I wouldn't be bragging about how fast it is to reload. Comparatively or when a train wreck requires it.

Single shots are cool. I just don't find them as a best option for big game.

A nice single shot was on my wish list for many years. I longed for a Dakota but the cost was a slight deterrent but what really turned me off was that butt ugly black recoil pad. I found a used #1 and went from there. This is the result and I couldn't be happier with the gun. Caliber is 7MM-08.

Have to admit, they have potential to be lookers. Nice rifle.

When you buy it, get in touch. IMO, a 218 in a No. 1 is a silly mix, kinda like reworking a Magnum Mauser for 22 rimfire. The wood on the Bee is very average for a red pad.

Why do I think your post is hot air ? Gee no idea.

"Item has Ended" perhaps this ?

That went better than I expected. Good for you, and good on them for correcting their blunder.

From and ordinary owner: I'm not sure about that red pad fancy wood connection. All three of my Number One's have ordinary plain wood stocks and red pads. We went about shooting these rifles before anybody told us about the inaccuracy. My shooting partner,s #1V in 220 Swift will deliver strings of groups in the half inch range. My #1B in 257 Roberts with ugly wood produces groups less than an inch. Give me the accuracy any day. The #1H in 375 H&H in the previous post will best mine somewhat. The wood on the #1H here is plain. These are really great guns, the plain Jane's, to own and shoot. Looks like it's the end of the road for these rifles anyway. Get'um while you can.

Good on both you and Ruger..

Good on you for giving them a chance to correct the issues.

Good on them for doing the right thing in correcting them.

Looking forward to to your future reports of how it does not shoot worth a damn...

Nice red pad ex 30-06, now JES 9,3x62 (never made in the B)

Grade 2 wood that came up a lot with a an English red & Minwax redo.

Total invested $900.00

Anyone know offhand if the new stocks are oil finished, or some oil-like product?

Interesting coments. I have two #1 B's in 25-06, one that looks like it was rode hard and put away wet. I'd planned on using it for a donor in .35 Whelen. never having shot a 25-06 I bought a couple of boxes of ammo and it was one of the most accurate rifles I'd ever shot. Never never ever ever ever shoot the donor. A few months later I came across another #1B in 25-06 that was minty as hell, had some of the nicest wood I've ever seen on a #1 and the price was right. Never saw a 25 caliber shotgun before but that one qualifies.
All my Ruger #1's are red pad thus mostly likely have those crappy Wilson barrels. You never know until you shoot the thing. I have some with pretty wood that are tack drivers and some with plain wood that just won't groups for spit. Just the luck of the draw I guess.

My biggest gripe on the #1's is I never could find any "S" models in any caliber I was interested in. I ordered a #1S in .300 Win. Mag. and they sent a "B". When I complained, my LGS called the supplier and their attitude was, "Take it or leave it." So now I have three #1's in .300 Win. Mag. The B"B I bought in IIRC 1975, and "S" I found at a gun show and another "S" "Made in the 200th Year of American Liberty." I haven't shot that last one yet for some reason but the other two run .375" to .50" and the 200 gr. Speer Hot Core. None of the three rifles have pretty wood. I haven't hunted the "S" gun but have taken the "B" on several elks hunts. The elk 3, Ruger 0. Seems like if I had a cow tag all I saw was bulls and if I had a bull tag all I saw was cows. Just bad luck I guess.
Paul B.

They are sprayed with a politically correct water based finish that is a b--ch to remove. Then you have to sand, blow out the very open grained wood (swamp walnut) fill it and put on about 10 coats of min wax poly to get a decent look.

Much simpler to buy a old red pad and swap the wood. that's why I have the only Red Pad 450-400.

I couldn't Resist another No1 in 220 Swift, its a late one but decent wood for the latest Rifles. Got it for a price I couldn't pass up, wht sold for 20 years ago, so there are still deals out there.
I think I'll send it back for a higher polish Reblue & New Wood if the Price is Right.

I also have my eyes on another No1 if I can get a decent deal on it.

I'm starting all over again at 81. Look out if I'd ever hit a lottery.

That's a beauty. Thanks for the info. I used minwax matte spar poly on my finishless pre-64. Came out very nicely and cured the zero wandering about from one year to the next.

Accuracy is a sometimes thing with Ruger 1’s. As much as is published on the matter, for some reason people keep buying them.

If you want the perfect single shot, get an 1885