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Wife wants me to build her a shooting house for deer hunting. Found some metal brackets that use 4x4’s for the legs. How tall can I go on the 4x4’s? The brackets do make the legs go out at a slight angle and I plan on cross bracing the legs and using some type of anchor to hold it to the ground. Stand will likely be 5x5 or 6x6. These are the leg brackets:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002MFF5...5LYDY&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

If anyone has any internet leads for plans please post a link


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Some of the guys on my east Texas lease(sandy ground) dig holes either 4x4 or 4x6, concrete the 4x4 posts in the ground, build platform, prefab sides, pull sides up, assemble in place, add the roof, done deal!! They X brace the legs depending on height. They build some as high as 15 feet. Most are 6 to 10’, takes a couple hours if they do a good prefab job. They survived the hurricane that blew through about the time Katrina hit. If built out of treated wood, they will last a long time. I make the ladders for them out of square tubing.

If you can’t dig holes to bury 4x4’s, you might see how much it would cost to have a metal platform built, then compare to material cost for wood. I’m a metal guy. I like platforms like these. Way faster and lighter than wood to build. Do you have any welder friends?


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Last edited by hanco; 06/24/18.
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I’ve got two “ houses” that I use every year built using the 4x4 brackets you show. One is 8’ and one is five. The 8’er has been in place for ten years and is as solid as the day it was built. The shorter one is only two yrs old, but like the other should last many years. Both are built completely with treated wood. One (8’) is 5x8, the other is 3.5 x 5.5 and is a little snug if used by two hunters. Sorry about no pictures, but the PhotoBucket fiasco got me.


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I built a house with those exact same braces using 8' 4x4s. You can go longer but heed a couple things:

1) Pay attention to the directions they come with. Make sure you use 2x6, not 2x4s for the sides of your floor. You'll need them to put lag bolts into the sides.
2) DEFINITELY use cross braces on your legs. Run them from the very top of one leg to the very bottom of the other leg. This is where the support of your legs come into play.
3) The taller the house, the more careful you'll need to be when pulling it up to keep it from falling on over. Take your time and go SLOW. There's plenty of videos on youtube of folks pulling them on over on accident. The best way to built is modular. Build your floor first with legs and then pull it up. After it's up, add your walls and ceiling.
4) Use some type of anchor system. I drilled holes in my legs large enough to run rebar through them at opposite angles of the legs. I then bent the rebar at the top to act as an anchor.

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4x4 stands are hard to move around with a gun and equipment, on my land we build 4x6 stands much easier to move your gun in,also have 1- 6x8 bow stand that's also heated, to gun or bowhunt in this big stand is really nice to use we even put a stair case for it.


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Hanco, some nice shooting houses there.


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Originally Posted by devnull
I built a house with those exact same braces using 8' 4x4s. You can go longer but heed a couple things:

1) Pay attention to the directions they come with. Make sure you use 2x6, not 2x4s for the sides of your floor. You'll need them to put lag bolts into the sides.
2) DEFINITELY use cross braces on your legs. Run them from the very top of one leg to the very bottom of the other leg. This is where the support of your legs come into play.
3) The taller the house, the more careful you'll need to be when pulling it up to keep it from falling on over. Take your time and go SLOW. There's plenty of videos on youtube of folks pulling them on over on accident. The best way to built is modular. Build your floor first with legs and then pull it up. After it's up, add your walls and ceiling.
4) Use some type of anchor system. I drilled holes in my legs large enough to run rebar through them at opposite angles of the legs. I then bent the rebar at the top to act as an anchor.



DId you ever try using Guy wires?

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I use cable and turnbuckles

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All you need is two guywires

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I much prefer these brackets. More expensive but well designed and over built.

http://www.e-ztower.com/


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My son built this blind for his Eagle Scout project at an environmental learning center. It was used as a hunting blind and a wildlife observation blind. The stairs were made to accommodate a broad range of visitors.

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Keep the comments coming. What about the size? I am planning for a 5x5. 95% of the time only one hunter will be in it with a rifle or crossbow


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i like a 4x4 with a boat seat on a pedestal, and a swivel right in the center. Same distance to every wall, which is just right for me. I can look out of every side, even though some of my stands only have a view in 3 directions. I can open the window and get air moving or close it and block the wind. If you have a 2x4 in the center of the wall, and you should, turn it flat so your knees will clear better. miles


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I find 4x4 to be common and too small. I also find 6x6 a bit too big to see if the deer are close. So I'd go with 5x5 with the understanding you'll have some waste.


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I would go 4x6 as a minimum. This can fit two hunters and some of my hog hunting friends even have a cot in theirs for all nighters. Definitely anchor the blind from the get go to avoid an accident. In sandy soil we use T-posts or the big screw type mobile home storm anchors. In rock we drill into the biggest ledge around and sink moly bolts with a ring eye on them. Many of the locations don't have large trees around to use for guy wires.

I like double walls with at least sheet foam insulation this helps with heat or cold and muffles any noise. If it will be a long term set up use good materials and paint everything before assembly especially the edges of plywood. We also caulk all joints with liquid nails. This cuts noise and eliminates crevices for creepy crawly things and hornets. I put a screened roof 4-way vent on one stand and it works well to funnel heat and odors upwards if a heater is used. Also reduces fumes or carbon monoxide build up.

I like windows that raise upwards and forms an awning to help shade the inside of the blind. The nicer ones also have sliding plexi-glass windows for bad weather. Add corner shelves and pad any place a rifle might be rested. I use foam pipe insulation on the window sills and old carpet everywhere else.


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what have y'all found to be a good window height to make good use of a bulls bag type rest?? I just joined a new deer camp that has mostly 4x6 shooting houses and that was a pre-requisite since I like to take my 14 yr old and my 7 yr old sons with me in the stand. until the 14 yr old says he wants to go to his own stand I'm good with both of them being with me and the eldest being my "shooter" and me being the "spotter" for him.
thanks,
Big Ed


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Sit in a chair, measure your eye height. Center window on that measurement. That how I do it.

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Originally Posted by Tejano
I would go 4x6 as a minimum. This can fit two hunters and some of my hog hunting friends even have a cot in theirs for all nighters. Definitely anchor the blind from the get go to avoid an accident. In sandy soil we use T-posts or the big screw type mobile home storm anchors. In rock we drill into the biggest ledge around and sink moly bolts with a ring eye on them. Many of the locations don't have large trees around to use for guy wires.

I like double walls with at least sheet foam insulation this helps with heat or cold and muffles any noise. If it will be a long term set up use good materials and paint everything before assembly especially the edges of plywood. We also caulk all joints with liquid nails. This cuts noise and eliminates crevices for creepy crawly things and hornets. I put a screened roof 4-way vent on one stand and it works well to funnel heat and odors upwards if a heater is used. Also reduces fumes or carbon monoxide build up.

I like windows that raise upwards and forms an awning to help shade the inside of the blind. The nicer ones also have sliding plexi-glass windows for bad weather. Add corner shelves and pad any place a rifle might be rested. I use foam pipe insulation on the window sills and old carpet everywhere else.


The main guy wire in the shooting houses I use are running from the middle of the deck with an eyebolt to a hole dug directly under it filled with a bag of sakrete.. 2 other guy wires are used if there are trees around

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I ordered these leg brackets today:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Elevators-4-in-x-4-in-Double-Angle-Brackets-4-Set-E188/202560097

Found them on Amazon but with a little research got them $20 cheaper at Home Depot.


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Originally Posted by milespatton
i like a 4x4 with a boat seat on a pedestal, and a swivel right in the center. Same distance to every wall, which is just right for me. I can look out of every side, even though some of my stands only have a view in 3 directions. I can open the window and get air moving or close it and block the wind. If you have a 2x4 in the center of the wall, and you should, turn it flat so your knees will clear better. miles



Exact same for me. Love mine.

It is the www.blynd.com 4x4 model with full length door. It has survived hurricanes Ike & Harvey. But, it definitely has some battle scars. It weighs under 100 lbs so I can move it around with ease. During Ike it circled the back yard numerous times. I had brought it home for safety. Even at 100 lbs & 50 mph sustained winds at least it stayed in the yard.


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