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I have a heat gun but does bees wax make good bear bait?

Bears can’t catch you when you run on water!

And we have a Winner !! ^^^This

as a lineman for 35 years in all weather conditions in northern Minnesota,this is what I was taught by the old guys years ago to keep your leather boots dry and lasting ,lineman belts etc. first thing you do is rather its new or used leather wash with saddle soap tell cleaned as best as possible let it dry for a day with a fan on leather,next step use a pencil paint brush and only use neet `s foot oil on all leather then let that soak in for another day that`s all you need on all leather except boots get one more coat and that`s with sno-seal.if your boots do get soaked and that`s still possible if you can every night use a boot dryer on those boots ,boots will last twice as long kepted clean and dry.that`s why most people working outside have 2 pairs of boots switch off each day. if you don`t have boot dryer as like in a hunting camp I always bring newspaper with so if boots get wet I just stuff plenty news paper in those wet boots over night or longer. dry warm feet are happy feet and make hunting much easier.

Been using Nor-V-Gen oil for the last 20 years or so. Works pretty good for me.

Another vote for Obenaufs hp.

I have been using Huberd's Boot Grease for the past few years and have been pleased with the results.

Obenaufs is all I have used for years and it has kept my leather in good condition and my feet have stayed dry in some pretty wet conditions. YMMV

All I got is mink oil

Obenauf's for me too. 15 years now.

Personally, I have found that buying a standard crapper wax ring at any hardware store and rubbing that into the leather works just as well as anything else, at least to keep things waterproof. I don't know if it "conditions" or not, but it waterproofs. I have a hunch all these name brand waxes are the same basic product, in a fancy dress and with several more dollars attached to their tag.

We really should make this a sticky since it comes up so often, which puts each of us in position to either repeat what we've said earlier or not give the questioner an honest opinion from our experience.

I'm one of the pure beeswax men, and cheerfully admit that applying it is extra work and that people in dryer climates than mine can easily be happy with other products. I hunt true rain forest quite a bit and we give boots and wet an unusually vigorous acquaintance. Besides shedding water for a long time, it has been a good surprise to me how much the beeswax protects the leather from cuts and abrasions in rock scree etc.

There are several much better boot treatments now than when I was first trying to waterproof boots.

I started with neetsfoot oil, tried mule deer tallow (actually pretty good stuff that lasted better than neetsfoot) and can't even remember all of the brands of boot treatment that I have used. I discovered SnoSeal in the late 60's when it was the rage, and it was better than most stuff on the market at that time, at least that I knew about. It is the only one of the commercial brands that I have come to actually dislike, with apologies to those who love it. Just for me, it does not last and seems to degrade quality of the leather over time.

Obenauf's is good. Along with Nikwax grease in a tube, it is among three brands of boot treatment I have in my closet, growing old after one or two uses. I have been surprised at how good the milky white Nikwax liquid is. It is my go-to when in a hurry, and works best on wet boots, but I think it messes up applying beeswax later. I have not tried Montana Pitch Blend nor Schnees.

OK. Excellent info. The boots have been covered (pun intended) quite well. How about leather holsters, where salts and/or acids in the treatment would be a problem ? I have some leather holsters that have been around for a while and are getting stiff and even some fine cracks appearing. Some of the above treatments would be great for the holster but possibly a real negative for blued steel.

Dons,

I have used Montana Pitch Blend for leather stuff like rifle slings, knife and axe sheaths with great results. While I haven't used it specifically on a holster, I wouldn't be afraid to use it if needed.

It does darken some leather just a bit, but if you warm it in the sun on a hot day, it applies nice. Heck, it even smells pretty good!

I've been wearing leather caulk boots on the Washington coast for nearly 20 years, day in and day out, for work and play. Befriended lots of "old timers" with 40- 50 yrs in the timber industry. The absolute unanimous choice of the old boys club is bear grease, with straight mink oil a close second place. The wet environment here, think 250 rain days a year, will put any boot treatment to the test. My vote goes to mink oil, but if you can get your hands on some bear fat, render it and give it a shot. You'll be pleasantly surprised

My brother has trekked the Himalayas three times and the Andes once, each trek lasting 3-4 weeks. Across glaciers, through snow, mud, rain...he swears by Nikwax.

As it performed well in those extremes one would think it would certainly suffice for anything most of us would encounter

I just bought a pint of Skidmore’s leather cream. It smells nice. I’m not very concerned about waterproofing, just keeping leather from drying out and cracking.

I use Leder-Gris. Its an oil and wax product keeps my Altbergs shedding water in conditions that could only be described as abuse, and shows every indication of making the leather last forever. There's an extreme version for occasional use when you've abused them to the point of feeling a little guilty.

Crisco works as good as most.

Get you a bottle of Pecard , apply liberally , this stuff absolutely works . Take your boot laces out , as long as you don't have any busted seams , apply liberally , and you can work in water or snow and your feet will stay dry . Unless of course your socks get saturated above your boots , then it ain't going to matter what you got on them .
I have worked in all kinds of crazy weather and this is the only thing I have found that holds up . If they are used boots or new , as long as there is no opening in a seam or sole , and you have to do the tounge area thoroughly , you are good to go . That's why I say remove the laces .
Kenneth