Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Hunter's Campfire 2009 Honda Pilot - Head Gasket Repair

Do you happen to know the DTC (diagnostic trouble code), so I can look it up. I'm struggling to think of a code, that would indicate a head gasket leak ??

Something like A14.

I just took the code to the guy down the road from my office. That code is for a valve and timing adjustment. But while it's apart would do the timing belt, water pump, plugs, etc... but not a damn head gasket. Dealer is trying to be a stealer to my wife it sounds like. His cost, though much better was still a lot but not almost $3k. Good lord. Pretty much $2k still thought with tax, title and license all said and done.

Symptoms of a damaged head gasket are usually, oil or coolant leak/lose, visible, or otherwise.

In theory, I guess, if it has misfire codes for 2 side by side cylinders, it could be blown out between them, but I've never seen it !

Getting the old "car dealer shaft".

Yeah, it runs like a friggin top! I'm not even sure why it would need a valve adjustment. I can see the timing and water pump tho.

nope Tom that code doesn't exist, even in the manufacturer specific codes !

I have seen the screens plug up on the variable valve timing solenoids, but its a simple & relatively painless bill at the end of the day.

I've never had to adjust valves or timing either.

But, at 110k miles, you do need to do the timing belt & components.

Almost all Honda engines are interference engines. If the belt blows, the engines done !

We're far from the best of friends....

but in typical Twin City Fashion from the car dealers there... they are trying to give you a snow job.

If you have a blown head gasket or leaking head gasket, the engine would be overheating... or if just starting
the engine oil would look like someone had poured milk in it...

Honda recommends the T/Belt and Water Pump to be replaced at 90K... it is an interference engine.. but the T Belt job isn't really that hard....My Pilot's got the same engine with 270K on it now...with ZERO issues experienced...at 110K you got a creampuff.

I've seen that engine in at the College automotive shop with over 400K on them...

Honda recommends valve adjustments at 160K....we checked mine at that mileage and they were right in factory specs....

at honest mechanic in the Twin Cities is worth their weight in gold....I knew a few which I am sure are probably long retired now...

I was once having shocks replaced on my Volvo down at Sears at Ridgedale... they had an alignment special going on... while I sat there in the waiting area by the service desk.... bet I saw 50 people come in there with cars not that old.. they were coming to pick them up....and every damn one was given quotes for $100 to $150 claiming they needed new tire road ends.. I got the service manager and told him who did he think he was fooling... I wasn't the only one as it was on the News on CCO a few weeks later about the scam they were running...

I've had two factory recalls on air bags for the Pilot and one for my Acura RS.....

The Acura Dealer told me I needed $1800 in repairs before he could release the vehicle....Like it needed an oil change RIGHT NOW.... when I had personally changed it the week before...it also needed a brake job.. which we had done at the college a month before...

The Pilot had a recall for the front left air bag... then they told me that needed $3k in immediate repairs before they could release the vehicle... and gave me the list.. same BS...

Then 6 months later, they sent me a real notice for the Right passenger Air Bag...evidently couldn't do them at the same time....took that to another dealer instead...they wanted justy short of $5K in "emergency needed repairs".....they gave me that laundry list....

That dealer argued that my vehicle hadn't been in the Honda computer system for repair for the last 4 years and had been driven over 100K with no work being done according to their records... I was taking my life and my families life into jeopardy just driving it down the highway.... and that could not only threaten my life and my families, but potentially threaten the lives of other passengers in other cars around me....

Thanked him for the list, told him to release the vehicle anyway NOW or he could release it after he heard from my attorney's office....He STFU immediately and told someone to go get my keys....I took the car over to the college to check it out stem to stern to make sure they hadn't sabotaged something just to try & get business out of it....

I'd let New to 99s run the code thru All Data or Mitchells.....I'm sure its something simple.. but I'll also tell ya, the check engine light loves to come on and then go off all the time once they hit about 7 or 8 years old...especially loving to tell ya its a plug misfire.... while the engine itself keeps humming along...

I don't pay attention to the engine light... instead I do it the old fashion way.. keep the maintenance up on it on a routine basis....

They ought to just put a computer code on it... send dealer check for $2K or more.... you are currently delinquent on your 'protection money' to your dealers service dept.

We work on them daily. No such code as A14. There is a POa14 code that has to do with the motor mount. If the head gasket is leaking water under the intake manifold, it would as mentioned above-milky. If it leaks into the combustion chamber it will miss and steam out the tailpipe.
I disagree with not paying attention to an engine light. I understand if you have a "say" vent system leak. it doesn't need to be fixed today. BUT!, if another problem came along, how would you know it then?
Yes, I would do the TB, waterpump, and drive belt.

What you are seeing on your dash display is not Code A14...

What you are seeing are Codes A... 1 & 4..

Page 235 of my Honda's Manual.....

Code A: Replace engine oil..

Code 1: Rotate tires

Code 4: Replace Spark Plugs
Replace Timing Belt and inspect Water Pump
Inspect Valve Clearance

Note on timing belt...If driven in very high temps ( over 110 F, ) or in very low temps ( under -20 F)
or towing a trailer replace every 60K.

if you are not overheating, and/or see a milky residue when checking your oil.... tell your dealer to Kiss Off.

have a leak down test done then....

if he bought it used with low miles... the previous owner could have run it dry on fluid and coolant is all I can think of, that it would be displaying a head gasket issue at 110K....hence why they traded it in...

I miss the 70's and 80's when you could see the engine and actually work on it yourself.

Are you getting white smoke at start up before it gets warmed up?

Coolant level dropping?

Coolant in the oil?

Oil in the coolant?

Exhaust fumes in the coolant?

Signs of a blown headgasket.

1. Engine miss especially in morning.

2. Loses coolant, it disappears.

3. Overheats.

4 coolant on floor after setting overnight.

5. Lots of steam out the tail pipe in the morning, or after setting a long time

Any one of these you have a problem, not necessarly a blown head gasket.

1. Visually check for coolant leaks after pressurizing system.

2. Remove spark plugs pressurize coolant system, let it set pressurized overnight, crank engine check for coolant coming out spark plug holes.

3. Use dye test on radiator, checking for Hydro carbins.

4. Check for engine misfire on smog machine.

5. check for codes.

These should give you idea whats wrong. Diagnosis goes a long way.

Man I don't! They always needed something. Yeah you could fix or screw things up, but 50-75,000 miles you better get rid of them.

Sounds like your biggest problem is finding a good honest repair shop. If I were new in town or haven't needed car repair, I would call a variety of car parts shops and ask them about their idea of a good shop. They deal with the shops daily and know the good ones.

Butch,

Except that the parts store would push you towards their biggest customer ! Win for them & win for "their" customers shop.

Reputation is everything in todays garage business, to many crooks out there.

Talk to everybody you know & trust & ask them how they feel about their shop.

I’m with you.

I miss the ease of fixing and maintaining my 1970 VW Bug, or my 1968 Squareback in college...

a crescent wrench, a flat head and Phillips screw driver and the tool kit that came with the car
took care of about 99% of your routine maintenance....

Like the little wrench and bar to take off the wheel lugs also would double as a spark plug wrench...
and could also drop the drain plug....

the air filter took motor oil.....

the bar to take off the hub caps and take off the wheel lugs also worked on taking the valve covers to replace trhe valve cover gasket or adjust the valves...

Two bolts to remove the carbs.. 4 bolts to drop the engine...disconnect like 4 wires... took 10 minutes to drop or re install the motor....

they were good little cars....

Head gasket was easy to change too.

You are worried over nothing....A14 is just the typical 100k tuneup code. Head gasket needed...weird they would even mention that. Sketchy really...

Maintenance Main Items
Symbol

• A – Means to replace just engine oil.

• B – Means to replace engine oil and oil filter. Also inspect various systems and components (see applicable service manual for details).

Maintenance Sub Items
1 – Rotate tires, and check tire pressure and condition.
2 – Replace air cleaner element, check drive belt, and replace dust and pollen filter.
3 – Replace transmission fluid and transfer fluid (if equipped).
4 – Replace spark plugs, replace timing belt (if equipped), inspect water pump, and inspect valve clearance.
5 – Replace engine coolant
6 – Replace rear differential fluid (if equipped).