Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Savage Collectors Questions on Maintence

Hello ooo' people of wisdom,
I tried to find the info I needed in back posts but couldn't find just what I wanted. I have a nice 57' F 308. Original except the swivel studs (frankly I would have put them there if they were not there) The wood is the basic oil that has no flaws but needs some oiling. What do I need to put on for the best hunting protection, looks and of course staying mostly original. If heard formbys tongue oil mentioned, if so do I add right on top of exsisting oil. The gun does not need cleaning (okay of course there must be some surface dirt) <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />or stain removing but is there something that should be done before throwing something on....??


2nd I have seen so many cracked tangs that I fear for my (one and only so far) great condition one. I heard something about removing butt stock and glassing where receiver meets the butt? Is this a preventitive or more for one already split, maybe accuracy thing.. Thanks for the info, sorry if its been covered before (over and over again probably) NM in Vt.

Unless you are going to do a complete refinish, I'ld go with protection rather than finish. A quality lemon or orange oil to keep her moist and prevent water issues. There are some of the new "Orange cleaners" that make a cleaner /furniture polish and it works well for what it is. Maintenance

If your going to refinish, Parks or Formby's tung oils are decent, Tru-Oil is another. Strip old finish w/ a scrunge pad and finish remover, not Stripper or paint remover.

Thanks RAM It just does not need a complete job I just want to make her happy and oily! <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

Hi Murr99, I was quite interested in the second part of your post regarding glass bedding the tang to prevent cracks in the upper tang. It seems quite logical to me that it should work, but I was hoping that some of the more experienced 99'ers would post some comments on this . Regards, LawMan.

The wood where the back of the top tang meets is very thin and is not intended to support the metal against the force of recoil. There should be a minimal clearance between the wood and the metal here. Allowing a stock bolt to get loose can really increase the chances of splitting here as the rifle wants to twist up in recoil . Stocks sometimes are not fitted correctly from the factory or they may shrink a bit and take away any small clearance that ever existed at the rear tang.

My practice is either to glass or rebed the wood tightly to the stock
at the heavy wood/metal junction where the stock bolt passes through the stock and to insure the front stock tangs are tightly fitted to the metal receiver sides and to ensure there is a very small clearance between the wood and metal at the rear of the top tang.

Glass is a good way to accomplish these fits and have the benefit of protecting the wood from gun oil absorption which will cause the wood to soften and set back. Wood will shrink over time and the stock bolt tightness should be checked periodically and the top tang clearance adjusted if required.
best.

Good info, thanks Stocker! NM in Vt. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smirk.gif" alt="" />