Home Forums Reloading Big Game Rifles How Do You Anneal?

I anneal at every loading to make my 7.62 military brass easier to work. My processing involves knocking back shoulder by 2 thousandths with a Redding body die and sizing the neck with a Lee collet die. My goal is to do best I can with a 308win factory bolt-action hunting rifle.

I use an 18rpm rotating water pan as a heat sink for my cartridge bases, and I used 700degF Tempilaq in the throat to determine my heating time with the way I apply my propane torch. So now now I use a metronome app to measure 6 seconds of torch time for each cartridge case.

This seems to work for me but I would certainly be glad for better ideas.

I only anneal my magnum rifle and AI brass, and only after every 3 firings.

I drop each case in a 9/16" deep socket chucked in an electric drill, and I slowly rotate the case with only the neck in the flame tip of propane torch. I turn the case just until the brass starts to change color, then drop that case out, drop another one in and repeat.

Candle after 4 loadings. YMMV

Thank you for the reply. It sounds like you use the 9/16” socket as a heat sink in similar function as I use my rotating water pan.

I also pay attention to the color changes, but I notice that I get different color changes when I change head stamps. For example, I notice that color changes on my LC brass is harder to see than on commercial head stamps. So I felt that I had to experiment with the Tempilaq to find out what’s going on with my brass. I don’t use the Tempilaq any more now that I feel comfortable with it, but I think I’ll do it periodically to make sure everything is still going well.

Main reason I still anneal with every loading is that I saw something that implies the Lee collet die works better with annealed brass. Can anyone confirm whether that’s the case?

I use a propane torch in a dark room. When the case neck and shoulder just starts showing the faintest color I drop it in a pan and so on and so forth. I have used this method for years and thousands of rounds and it is fast and fairly clean. I have had a number of people say that it won't work but that has not been my experience at all. YMMV.

I put mine in a pan of water that covers up to the shoulder and heat with a propane torch until they turn pink

That is generally considered too hot by most qualified shooters these days. If you're doing it consistently though, that's more important IMO than the actual temp.

Until recently I was doing it in a brightly lit room, and watching the appearance of the case neck. When it changes to a waxy look, I'd drop them into a pan. That seemed to work well, and was much lower temp than faintly red in a dark room.


Recently though I started using salt bath annealing, using a small lead casting pot and a PID temp controller for salt temp. That method is very consistent, and is both easy to do, and faster than any other non-automated method I've used. The equipment will cost ~$60-$150 depending what you have already and how you set it up, but the results are very good.

Could you expand on this? Type of salt, supplier, technique, etc. Thanks.

Thanks Whttail!

Salt Bath.
Did about 900 rounds a couple weeks ago. Big fan!

He beat me to it, but I'd be happy to add any other info I can. I'm using Nitrate of Soda for my salts, but have also used potassium nitrate. Both work fine. I also use the same system for heat treating the stainless steel parts I machine, and the two salts have slightly different effect on surface appearance, so I'll anneal with whichever I happen to be using for heat treat.

Are you holding the brass in a gloved hand or using some other type holder?

I made a little sheet metal holder, similar to shown in one of the videos in those other threads. One could do it holding by hand, but the depth would be less consistent.

Y, thanks.
I think I'll try this method.

I'm going to copy this guys rig , I'm making my reloading desk a two tier set up and will put this on the top .

That's a slick setup, but it would be better IMO if the heat was applied to the body/shoulder junction.

and how long you keep in flame ? You ever checked with templac?

Cool vid, and great idea.. I chuck my .308 brass in a cordless drill- they just fit the chuck, the shoulder and neck exposed, spin them slowly in the propane torch for around 9 seconds out towards the end of the flame (Lapua brass) 7 seconds for Nosler brass, I am at the same time watching for the brass to just start to change color, then drop them out of the drill onto a terry cloth towel. Do not miss the towel and land on the carpet. The time exposed to the flame will vary depending upon the torch, mine does not adjust to a pinpoint like the video above so it takes longer than normal. I anneal after every firing. I've not had any case failures other than loose primer pockets after 10 - 12 firings or so, and seating force seems really consistent. For my 300 Win brass, I chuck up the fixture I use to turn the necks in my drill and everything else remains the same. Practice with some old brass first until you feel comfortable doing it for real.