Well, yes Jim...the old solder itself becomes oxidized to some extent and that's why you want to remove as much as possible.
Basically, what you should do is remove the old solder using a solder sucker or solder wick. Applying a bit of rosin-based flux to the connections beforehand can aid in removal. Once that is done, clean the area with isopropyl alcohol and an old toothbrush and then inspect. Once satisfied that enough of the old solder has been removed, apply some more of the rosin-based flux (NEVER use acid-based flux for electrical soldering!) and then solder the connections. Best results will be achieved with an iron of the proper power range (around 10 watts), with the tip cleaned and lightly tinned, and 63/37 tin/lead solder. A good solder joint will appear to be smooth, shiny, and concave in profile. When you solder, the idea is to get the joint up to temperature as quickly as you can, get the solder flowed into the joint, and then get the heat the hell off of it ASAP.
Well. I finally got around to fixing my chargemaster. Never bothered to call RCBS.
Took said advice from above quoted post and went to it.
There are two rows of pins on the board. The first and largest row is the connector for the scale and the measure. I desoldered the joints and then soldered them.
I also de soldered the smaller row of pins behind that.
Solved all the problems with the scale and measure. Even seems to have fixed the scale drift.
I sure would not have bought another one for 450 bucks.....but its nice to have this one fixed.
Thanks for the advice!
